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Trials & Tribulations in Tokyo
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We arrived at Narita Airport in the mid afternoon and everything seemed to move smoothly and quickly. After we collected our luggage is when things became a bit more challenging. My first order of business was to pick up my wifi router. I had printed a map of the pickup point and what the desk looked like. However, I didn’t know which side of the terminal I was at, whether I was on the north or south side. In my search of the router, I went from one end of the terminal to the exact opposite. It was not close and it was quite humid. While looking for my correct location, I tried two ATM machines. The first did not work. Turns out that I needed to locate the international ATM which I fortunately came upon going from the south wing to the north.
The next struggle was finding the correct Keisei Skyliner location. We initially had approached the desk on the arrival floor. For Skyliner, the representative motioned for us to go to her right, towards the other wing. We found the escalator near the international ATM and went to the basement. I had seen the YouTube videos for the two options, the red JR line to the right or the left Keisei option to the left. I approached a Keisei representative with an email printout of my ticket confirmation and she motioned for me to go to the other desk behind me which was called the Skyliner and Keisei Information Center. It was a semi-enclosed area with a small lobby and front desk with 2 representatives. Luckily, there was no line. I showed the Keisei rep my email printout and she proceeded to give us our Skyliner tickets and 72 hour pass. I asked for a Pasmo card, which is a preloaded subway card, so as not to have to buy tickets at the other train stations which are not part of the Tokyo metro line covered by the 72 hour pass. I had done a preliminary search of the other train lines we potentially could use and I knew it would be around 1100 yen so I padded it just in case and asked for it to be loaded with 1500 yen. The Pasmo card required an additional 500 deposit of which a portion could be returned at the end of the trip but I knew going into it that I would be keeping it as a souvenir. I walked away with 3 different sets of train tickets. Our Keisei rep motioned for us to turnaround and walk towards the other Keisei desk to catch our train which was leaving in 10 minutes.
We followed the Keisei sign until we reached the entrance. I knew to put the ticket in the slot and retrieve it on the other side as I walked through the stall. We were told to wait on platform 5 which we did. I looked at our tickets which said 6A, 6B, 6C. I saw we were standing in front of 6 so it seemed like the right location. As we entered the train, there was a luggage section where we rushed to place all of our large luggage and we found our seats and sat down. Everything seemed fine until a man tapped me on the shoulder and told me I was in his seat. We compared tickets. We were in the wrong car! Our tickets were for Car 1 and we were in Car 6. Panicked as we didn’t have much time, we grabbed our luggage and proceeded to try to go through the cars with all our luggage being wheeled quickly though the aisle. At a certain point, my husband and mother-in-law jumped out with the luggage in an effort to quickly wheel the 4 large pieces of luggage on more even ground. My heart was pounding, trying to figure out if they would make it back on before the train left the station. I continued to wheel my laptop case between the cars. Luckily, I saw them come back in onto the first car as I was approaching that area. With only seconds to spare before the train began to move, we stowed our luggage and proceeded to our correct seats, hearts still racing and minds still processing our new learnings.
Luckily, we were quickly distracted by the impressively fast and smooth train ride and the comfortable air conditioned cars. The landscape whizzing by us caught our attention as it was quite the opposite of the hardscape we were used to. Though the homes looked very similar to ours, the landscape was quite thick and lush and the grass was almost iridescent green hue. Occasionally, we would go past what may have been temples or shrines which had the unique Japanese architecture we had only seen in photos or in movies. Moments later, we were transported to the here and now by large signs and buildings for what seemed to be the equivalent of Target and other other box store chains.
I sensed that this was the first of many observations that would demonstrate the country’s dichotomy of the very old and traditional combined with the very new and young. The very fact that a high speed train was traversing through fields, urban areas and centuries old architecture was an example of the coexistence and commingling of the old and the new.
After a quick stop at Nippori, we finally arrived at Ueno. We grabbed our bags and I was shocked to realize my laptop case was missing. I couldn’t believe that somebody had stolen my case which had my work laptop and fairly new camera. Luckily, we asked an attendant and she quickly found that it had somehow rolled diagonally across the aisle to one of the spaces in front of a seat. Shaken but incredibly relieved, we walked away from the train platform and followed the sign to the Gold Ginza line. We came upon another train stall and tried to use our 72 hour subway pass. It didn’t work. I motioned for help. A nice non-English speaking Japanese man came over. I couldn’t understand what he was saying but thought he meant for us to use the Pasmo card which didn’t quite seem right. That also did not work. It took another minute or two for us to figure out that we needed our original Skyliner tickets to exit the station. This was another novel idea that was not part of our previous experience with trains in Los Angeles. Sadly, I did not remember where I placed our tickets as I was so preoccupied when we boarded the Skyliner. I had to sit down and go through my wallet twice and on still not being able to find them, I began panicking and taking my wallet apart. I found the two stubs meshed in with other pieces of paper and relieved, got up and proceeded to insert the ticket to exit the station.
The long walk to the Gold Ginza line helped reset me and regain my perspective. There was a section where we walked through a long winding tunnel. We observed some of the people who were walking alongside us. There was an older man who sadly appeared to have an advanced stage of scoliosis and also appeared to be knocked kneed, walking awkwardly with his family, his left hand pressed against his lower back to possibly help put pressure to help him walk. It saddened me to see because he was clearly in pain and I wondered if time or lack of money had caused the deformity and silently wished him well. Having been diagnosed with scoliosis as a child and luckily having the means to correct it in the very early stages, I thanked my lucky stars for my health and normal existence.
With a newfound appreciation for life and health, I regained my composure when we finally reached our destination. I had deliberately placed all my subway tickets in the little envelope that had our 72 hour subway pass so I easily found that in the pockets of my wallet.
After exiting, we were faced with having to take our luggage down the stairs. We had to do it in shifts but having witnessed the blessings of life, I think we were a bit calmer and unaffected at this slight inconvenience, we made it to the platform which I confirmed on my phone with the aid of my handy Ninja wifi router. We got on the train and knew that we were only on it for 2 stops.
We left the train and proceeded to the exit stall and another hurdle was upon us. Unfortunately, my mother had suffered the same fate as me attempting to exit the Skyliner and she struggled to find her subway pass. It helped me realize that we needed to pay attention more so than normal because we were out of our element. After realizing she had put the pass in her pocket, we finally made it out of the station. We had to take our luggage up the stairs. Once again, we took them up in shifts until we reached street level.
The next hurdle was trying to find a taxi to take us. I tried to use my taxi app but it wouldn’t allow me to be picked up at that location. I couldn’t figure out if it was a bad connection or pickups weren’t allowed. My mother-in-law and I separately asked street merchants for help. I went into a store and not surprisingly, the store attendant did not speak English. She basically motioned that for me to hail I taxi, I would simply have to wave one down. My mother-in-law was able to confirm that we were in the rights spot but just needed to move a few yards up the sidewalk where it would be easier for luggage to be loaded off the curb. Luckily a minute or two later we successfully hailed a cab. The hotel was about 4-5 blocks on the left which would have been an easy walk without any luggage. With it, in the humidity combined with travel exhaustion, it would have been impossible.
We arrived at the hotel and check-in was seamless. Our room, though small and narrow, had a fantastic view of Tokyo Skytree. Looking out, we saw the Asahi building with the gold curved statue atop its building but we also noticed a small children’s amusement park across the street. As the sun set and the skies got darker, the lights of Skytower and the amusement park shifted the city landscape to a more romantic vibe akin to seeing the Empire State Building or Eiffel Tower lit up against the night skies. It seemed like the perfect opportunity for a toast. I had packed some vodka which needed chilling. My husband went to the 20th floor to get 3 Dixie cups filled with ice for our first vodka drink in Tokyo. We toasted our anniversary, our life and our first day of learnings and gratitude.
We then proceeded to get ready for dinner on the 27th floor which also promised a magnificent view of Tokyo Skytree. I had previously reviewed the Teppanyaki menu and was wanting a filling wagyu steak dinner. Another hiccup to our day was when we were presented with prefixe menus, starting at the financial equivalent of $70 per person, upwards to $110. That was not at all what I wanted to eat so I found the menu I had researched online and showed it to our very sweet waitress who, not shockingly, did not speak a great deal of English. Sadly, the online menu was a lie as that was not offered any longer. Luckily, the restaurant also offered Chinese food which had an English menu so we quickly pivoted onto a more casual fare for our anniversary/first night meal in Tokyo. Fortunately everything was delicious but I was slightly amused that our first meal in Japan was a slightly more expensive version of the Chinese food we would ordinarily eat at home. During dinner, the exhaustion of our very long day began to set in and we called it a night.
I learned a lot in the short period of time we’ve been in Tokyo and very little of it has to do with the culture, though there is an incredible amount of politeness and deference that we normally would not experience back home. I was reminded to always be mindful and be in the moment especially in a new and different environment. Appreciate and embrace health. Always remain flexible and open to experiencing what was previously not planned as there may be better surprises waiting on the other side.
And with that, it is time to turn in so I can be rested for a full day of adventure, lots of delicious eats and hopefully more learnings about the city, its people and their traditions. Good night Tokyo!
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