In researching cooking schools in Chiang Mai, I sought to find the ones which offered five consecutive days of instruction with different menus. Chiang Mai Thai Cookery was the original cooking school in the city and was the only establishment to afford the luxury of 6 dishes daily totaling 30 for the 5 days. They also offered pickup and drop off from my location so that made it an easy choice.
The location of the cooking school was about 20 minutes from the city center in a beautiful serene gated community. The school had a large lot on which the colonial style building sat with its open air dining tables,
bookcases filled with regional cookbooks,
cooking stations for about 100 students and
2 instructional air conditioned classrooms in which the instructors demonstrated the preparation of each dish.
Behind the school was a vast garden,
a large pond with hundreds of koi fish
and an expansive lot which may eventually become a bed and breakfast or hotel of some sort to house the students of the school. Its location was remote, quiet and peaceful and the colonial structure had a restrained elegance and beauty.
What made my experience amazing was Pong, the chef/instructor who became a friend at the end of my time at the school. 
His classes were informative and funny. Pong’s English was as perfect as his culinary expertise. He had each student assist him in demonstrating the preparation of the dishes before we were sent off to cook on our own.
On my second day, I was literally the only student in the school so we had several hours of cooking together so I had the benefit of a one-on-one private cooking class from Pong.
He explained how and why everything needed to be cooked in a certain order and though I accidentally burnt garlic once or twice, which I personally didn’t mind as it gave the dish a smoky flavor, I knew it wasn’t proper technique because of Pong. He also shared how our fingers should be positioned when cutting so that we can cut quickly like those chefs we see on cooking competitions and not cut ourselves in the process.
His methods were very refined which can only come from a great deal of training and practice. He observed each student with a watchful eye and like a choreographer of a ballet, knew when each move should be executed and sometimes helped each student find their way.
I was amazed at how simple and yet intricate Thai cooking actually was. Some dishes required a few ingredients and minimal effort to make
while others were quite labor intensive and required nearly a dozen or more ingredients.
I loved every minute of my time at the school. It was my first foray into an experiential excursion while on vacation.
I learned so much more on this holiday and it definitely enhanced my visit to Chiang Mai.
I have zero hesitation recommending Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School as a Must Do during any trip to Chiang Mai.
The facilities are immaculate, the instruction is A-level quality and the abundance and variety of delicious Thai food makes for a comprehensive and immersive experience.
Many know Chiang Mai as Thailand’s Rose of the North. Just like its namesake, the city has many layers.
The outer layer displays its Buddhist history and influence evidenced by the nearly 300 wats sprinkled around the city integrating its faith and spirituality into its DNA.
Inherently, the city maintains a certain calmness, order and peace, helping quiet the mind, quelching inner voices, allowing doubt to subside and dissipate.
In this state of quiet and focus, one’s senses are allowed to become more acute.
The colors are more vivid and pronounced.
The sound of stillness permeates the air.
The air is filled with the smell of freshness and spice.
The complex layers of flavors meld together.
Connections are on a more intimate level.
Chiang Mai has been blessed with a lush and verdant topography and is replete with bountiful opportunities for quiet moments, reflection and solitude.
Walking through its many lush, secluded and landscaped paths is a reward in and of itself, providing stillness and serenity, interrupted only by the sound of the soft rustling of the leaves from a gentle warm breeze passing through the garden.
In the midst of the placidity, you can hear the flitting of the wings of the birds as they wander and explore the various branches and vines draping over and sheltering the rice paddies.
Harmonizing with their rhythmic beats and occasional chirps are the soothing sounds of the rippling water as the schools of koi swish and jump about in the nearby pond.
The wide expanse of open fields nestled in between lush and verdant hills give way to the Rose’s gentle giants, living their best lives, shielded from the cruelty and oppression of the outside world.
Chiang Mai is where one can escape, disconnect and find a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of life and get lost in her natural beauty, reset and recharge for the long road ahead.
When one envisions an amazing French dining experience, one might conjure up images of a dimly lit bistro on the Left Bank of the Seine or an outdoor restaurant in Aix-en-Provence sheltered by a canopy of trees or maybe one imagines a life-altering meal at Julia Child’s beloved Le Couronne in Rouen. My husband and I have sampled traditional French fare in the City of Lights and in Marseilles though nothing we ate during our holiday was of particular note. Surprisingly, it wasn’t until our recent vacation to Chiang Mai that we finally understood the rabid excitement and gleeful anticipation most feel about a French dining experience.
La Terrasse was on my short list of non-Thai restaurants up for consideration for a random meal when needing a break from the traditional food of the city. I had seen that it was ranked #41 of restaurants in Chiang Mai on TripAdvisor, and I had visited their website, noting the quaint setting and cozy vibes. I didn’t think we would have the chance to visit but lo and behold, we lucked into having our last meal there before heading to the airport to fly back home.
The restaurant is on a main thoroughfare but is tucked and nestled away, further back down a small alleyway.
The lush arched entrance stood halfway down the alley with the restaurant’s offerings displayed on a long rectangular wooden display case to the right.
Beyond the archway was the outdoor patio with an arched path leading to the front entrance of the restaurant.
We opted to dine inside, sheltered from the heat and humidity.
Once in the restaurant, it felt as if you had been whisked away to France. There was a display case of delicious diet-busting desserts likely baked in butter, full fat milk with artery and gut clogging cheese which obviously indicated their deliciously divine decadence.
The style of the booths, the woodwork, the drapes, chairs and even the photographs and artwork were all reminiscent of the decor of many of the bistros we visited in Paris.
We began by ordering what would be our last drink on holiday and toasting our amazing vacation.
We ordered the tomato basil soup which came in a rustic bowl with crispy thick sourdough croutons on the side. It was rich but not overly thick and the tomato had the subtle hint of basil and cream. The croutons added a bit of crunch and texture.
Next up was the mushroom omelette with fried potatoes browned in duck fat. That was the dish that seemed so incredibly simple but oh so divine and made us understand the simplistic exquisiteness of true French cooking. The omelette was cooked just right with the perfect amount of mushroom and cheese which had fused into each other. The potatoes had fully absorbed the flavor and were extraordinarily crispy and juicy from the duck fat. Combined, the omelette and potatoes were exceptional.
The spaghetti arrived twirled beautifully in a small bowl with a decent dollop of the carbonara sauce atop the pasta and though the sauce was thick it wasn’t too rich or overpowering.
We ended our meal with a moist and juicy grilled salmon which was served with a very creamy large serving of mashed potatoes and a slightly pickled lemon cream herb dipping sauce for the salmon.
The setting, the presentation and the subtle sophisticated delicate balance of the melding of flavors in the simple dishes offered by La Terrasse helped us to finally truly understand and appreciate French cuisine.
Sometimes the path to enlightenment takes you on a few twists and turns and that’s when you realize that it’s all about the journey. Merci beaucoup to La Terrasse for our transformative French dining experience in the heart of Thailand.
La Terrasse: http://www.laterrasse-chiangmai.com
Chiang Mai is known for its abundance of night markets throughout the city. It doesn’t take much effort to find one each night of the week.
There are also plenty of street vendors on the way to the actual markets so supply most definitely outweighs demand. However, unlike in other countries where vendors aggressively try to sell you their goods or wares, the vendors wait until they are approached by a potential buyer expressing his/her interest and even then, the vendors have a tendency to take a more laid back approach.
On our first full day in Chiang Mai, we walked 10 minutes north from our AirBnb to Anusarn Market which is best known for its abundant food options.
We opted for a seafood restaurant based on several reviews on TripAdvisor but unfortunately it was fairly mediocre and frankly forgettable.
However, we had a front row seat to the dancers of the Chiang Mai Cabaret soliciting customers. My husband decided to take a photo with them which resulted in a few good laughs.
After dinner, we walked around and saw a sign for the fish spa. At 120 baht it seemed like a very cheap thrill so we opted to try it. Not surprisingly, it was definitely memorable and noteworthy. It seemed hilariously ticklish and odd at first. After a while, we got used to the rhythmic nipping around our feet. The best part were the people we met who came by to chat with us. Having fish eating your dead skin was definitely a great conversation starter. We met an Irishman with whom we shared the story of my husband’s mistaken belief that he was of Sicilian descent only to discover from 23andMe that he was predominantly of British Irish descent. Our Irish companion on realizing he met a fellow countryman shared a few tales about the Motherland to incentivize him to come visit.
We ended our evening by stopping off to get my husband’s favorite dessert: mango sticky rice.
The next day, we opted to visit the famous Saturday Night Market on Wua Lai Road. It is literally one road with a few off-shoots for food vendors. We took a Grab, which is the equivalent of an Uber or Lyft, and were dropped off at one end of the market. There were some similar wares that we had seen the night before but a handful of a few unique ones. The street was busy but not oppressively packed.
We headed to the first food court and ordered a small bowl of the famous Khao Soi for 50 baht,
grilled fish for 200 baht
and a plate of pad Thai for 40 baht.
We ate our dinner while listening to a guitarist strum some tunes.
After listening to a few more melodic songs, we moved on and walked through the rest of the market.
We fell upon another more diverse food court.
There were 2 sushi roll stalls but one in particular was incredibly crowded as it was selling each piece for 10 baht. I’m not quite sure what the quality and freshness of the rolls since it was oppressively humid and it hardly seemed appropriate to have raw fish exposed to the elements. However, the excitement and intensity of the customers was palpable as they aggressively barked out their orders at a rapid pace and fevered pitch.
Moving on, we looked at the other food options and when we turned the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac of stalls, we couldn’t help but notice the shawarma stand. We ordered a quesadilla from the woman who was teaching her son how to prepare the dish. It was interesting to observe that the teen was being groomed to help or possibly take over the business. She explained each step, how to carve the meat, how much to place on the tortilla, how much cheese to add and how long to cook on each side. Hopefully, he took mental notes as the quesadilla was perfectly crisp on the outside and moist and gooey on the inside.
After our second dinner, we meandered to the other end of the market and opted to take a Tuk Tuk back to Anusarn to check out the Boy Blues Club.
It was located on the second floor above the market offering a nice view and a breeze to boot. The band was pretty good but the alcohol selection was lacking. Still it was a nice chill spot to hang out, relax and listen to some solid tunes.
The next day, we went to the famous Sunday Night Market. To say that market was overwhelming would be an understatement. It was massive with various offshoots on to other streets.
What is interesting about the Sunday market was it actually had some unique vendors, with original artwork, ornate and exquisite inexpensive bookmarks and cards. I enjoyed seeing what was available but one could seriously spend 6 hours before seeing everything that was available. We didn’t stay long as it looked like rain and the aisles were filling up with people, making the browsing and sightseeing less enjoyable by the minute so we retreated and headed back to our humble abode.
Chiang Mai Night Markets provide a place where one could definitely find and haggle for unique souvenirs to remind one of their time in Chiang Mai.
They’re also great for sampling local food at a relatively low price point.
For us, night markets are another entry point into the mindset of the people and what they found to be of value enough to sell to locals and tourists alike.
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When we first booked our trip to Chiang Mai, my husband proclaimed that he wanted to get a massage every single day. We were reminiscing about the 2 hour deep tissue oil massages we previously had at Oriental Massage Phuket and how those were likely the best massages we have ever had. For 2 hours, it was 1000 baht or roughly around $32. We had 3 massage treatments and paid our therapists the equivalent of $40. My husband’s massage therapist, Au, impressed my husband so much that he asked for her each time. The last time we visited, she was in the back, eating lunch but when she heard he was there for her, she stopped eating to accommodate him. I went through 2 different female therapists before I finally found Peuw who was just sensational.
All the petite women at Oriental Massage Phuket were freakishly strong and worked incredibly hard to work out whatever kinks we had. The setup for the massages there is unlike what we’ve grown accustomed to in the States. We hoofed it up 3 narrow flights of stairs to the 3rd floor where we walked into a room with a long wooden platform with several thin padded beds of sorts. Those were used for Thai massages which don’t involve disrobing and can be done in the open. Our treatment area had a few regular massage tables separated by loose drapes in between the tables. We undressed in front of the women as there was no dressing room and there weren’t additional sheets to use as cover up. We started our massages face down on the one sheet on the table and basically were exposed until we were draped with bath towels. I recall the therapists walking and kneeling on our backs at some point. When we eventually turned over, they covered us with the towels and for the most part, excluding the Thai stretch at the end, the massages were normal. The setting was definitely not a Burke Williams experience but the massages were a 100 times better because of the skill and remarkable strength of the women.
Jump forward 2 years and this time, we’re nearly 1000 miles north of Phuket in Chiang Mai. Our first massage experience was at Lila Massage which is an establishment that is dedicated to training and employing previously incarcerated women. We had just finished visiting the Cultural Arts Center when we walked out and saw Lila Massage across the street. We inquired about a 2 hour deep tissue oil massage which led to the receptionist making a call. She then led us out of the spa and advised us that their other location would able to accommodate oil massages. We walked past the square where The Three Kings monument is located.
When we arrived, there was a room full of female therapists standing and sitting around. My husband wanted an hour and a half deep tissue oil massage followed by 30 minutes of Thai stretching with their strongest therapist. What can only be described as fear or laziness, most of them rebuffed the offer to work on him. The woman behind the desk said they could not do both, that it’s one or the other. Having been spoiled by Au in Phuket who was initially hesitant but acquiesced, he insisted that it can be done, advised them that he’s a massage therapist and that the primary purpose for our trip was for him to attend Thai massage school. Not budging, the manager said that because of the oil, there was no way to stretch. I thought that clearly there was no creativity or drive to make money because the easy answer was to wipe us down and use towels or sheets to absorb the oil and stretch us. It almost felt like they weren’t interested in our business but desperate to get a massage on our first full day in Chiang Mai, we settled for a 2 hour hot oil massage which cost 1400 baht each.
Already, it was more expensive than what we had paid in Phuket and we weren’t getting exactly what we wanted. We started by being shown two chairs where our feet were washed and we were given house slippers. Just like in Phuket, we climbed up 3 flights of stairs but we were taken to a private room with 2 beds and its own bathroom. Unlike in Phuket, we were asked to wear what can only be described as black plastic undies and I was given a shower cap for my hair. The ladies left the room and let us undress in private and we started face down. Surprisingly, they started on our calves and then our hamstrings before making their way up our backs, skipping the glutes and hip areas completely. At a certain point, both women stopped massaging as they heard a torrential downpour of rain hit the roof of the spa. They continued and when we were flipped over, they once again began with the feet, ankles and thighs. As if that wasn’t odd and uncomfortable enough, my therapist worked on my entire chest and abdomen areas which are the forbidden zones in the U.S.
To say it was a weird massage would be an understatement. Their technique seemed a bit rough around the edges with a lack of bedside manners. My massage therapist also seemed a bit hostile. Still, I reminded myself that they were providing a service and were being given a second chance and an opportunity to assimilate into society. After our massage, we were given a cup of tea and a cookie.
Two days later, we went to The Home Massage and Spa which was a recommendation by a couple we met at the elephant sanctuary. I booked 2 2 hour massages for 1800 baht each and asked for pickup and drop off service which they offered inclusive of the price for the massage. The spa was a completely different environment than both Lila Massage locations. The Home Massage and Spa appeared to be on the first floor of a small pristine white colonial style boutique hotel.
Fronting it was a small pool and some lush landscaping but fronting that was the driveway and car park area.
After we registered, we were given hot tea and 2 cold washcloths to cool us off from the heat while our feet were washed before being given rattan house slippers. Then we were led into a dimly lit room with 2 beds and a full bathroom. The space was quite large and ornate. Again, we had the plastic underwear and shower cap. What was evident very early on was the technique and the proper draping etiquette of these women. The strokes were much more like the rhythmic strokes we’re used to but the order of which areas of the body was treated was very much in line with Lila. When the awkward front portion finally arrived, I had proper coverage and the periphery of the chest area was addressed rather than the entire section. As polished as the technique was, the beds were extraordinarily hard and by the end of the massage, my lower back was spasming. Also, just like the first set of therapists, only forearms, elbows and palms were used and no specific pressure points were addressed by their fingers. Again, the hips or glutes were ignored.
After our massage, we were given tea and small peanut butter and jelly shortbread cookies. Disappointed, my husband rejected the offering and whispered that he was done with massages for the trip.
Surprisingly, he changed his mind the last 4 hours we were in town, a week later. I had read about Perception Blind Massage on TripAdvisor and it was ranked higher than The Home Massage and Spa and both were in the top 10. I mentioned that the likelihood of us having to wear the plastic contraptions would likely be lessened since the therapists are blind and they may actually work on the Thai forbidden zones of glutes and hips which by American standards is less invasive than the chest and abdomen.
We took a Grab to their singular location and were greeted by a lovely receptionist who handed us a questionnaire about what areas we wanted addressed. We had not been asked previously so I took that as a positive sign in the right direction. We were given a cup of cold tea and while we drank it and had our feet washed, we were handed our individual massage therapist’s bio and story of how/why they became visually impaired or blind.
Already, we had an attachment and connection with our therapists before having actually met them. We were led to the rooms, walking past our therapists who were seated in chairs against the wall. The room we were led into was smaller and much darker than the two prior rooms but it was very tastefully decorated in a dark contemporary Thai decor. The adjoining bathroom was also dark and small.
Sadly, I was wrong about the plastic underwear and shower cap but the massage tables were padded and more comfortable than at our previous spa. My massage therapist started off with light rhythmic strokes and then she went in for the kill. She found knots in places I didn’t know existed. As she was pressing down on them, hearing my deep cleansing yoga breaths, she would say as she pressed down harder, “I’m sorry but it’s really tight.” I somehow suppressed the urge to scream but at certain points, I thought my eyes would bulge out of their sockets from the extreme effort to keep it all contained. Luckily, our therapists did use their fingers to address deep areas in our trapezius and also, I watched the blind male therapist work on my husband’s glutes while mine worked on the area between that and my lower back.
After the massage, we gave them each 200 baht and were given the same cold herbal tea as when we arrived as well as a peanut butter jelly shortbread cookie and an Oreo cookie.
Hours later, during our two separate flights home, we met two young women who also had massages on their last day. Both women coincidentally had volunteered for a non-profit and had been in the mountains for most of their time in Chiang Mai. The first lady we met went to a random massage place and asked for a full body massage. We exchanged the horror of the frontal areas being addressed but unbeknownst to her, the female massage therapist was having her treatment lead to a happy ending. Upon the shocking realization, she ended the massage abruptly, paid the full price and practically ran out the door. The next tale we heard was from a young girl, a freshman in college, who shared the massage room with a male friend/classmate of hers who she inadvertently was exposed to during the frontal part of the treatment. The takeaway is to research the establishment and if traveling with others, be mindful of potentially awkward situations and ask what the room setup will be.
Massages should make you feel less stressed after the experience. It starts with the setting, the friendliness of the staff, the connection with the therapists and the effectiveness of the technique. Of the three massages we received in Chiang Mai, Blind Perception was the clear winner for all the reasons that were important to us, and it made us feel that we had contributed to a very worthy organization and helped two amazing hardworking professional individuals.
Oriental Massage Phuket: http://orientalmassagephuket.com/
Lila Massage Ratchapakhinai and Lila Massage Prapokklao: http://www.chiangmaithaimassage.com/
The Home Massage and Spa: http://www.thehomemassageandspa.com/
Perception Blind Massage: http://www.perceptionblindmassage.com
My last morning of cooking school was bittersweet. It was my last full day in Chiang Mai and I had just gotten used to the routine. I felt like I was finally feeling enmeshed in the local life and its rhythms. I was looking forward to heading to the market and getting my daily sai oua from the petite Thai lady and possibly getting a bag of the coconut custard treats I had for the first time yesterday so my husband could also sample them. Alas, we were only at market for a pickup. I considered jumping out and heading to the vendors but I didn’t want to disrupt the flow. Luckily, Pon knew I would miss my daily routine and brought back a bag of sai oua for me to eat on the ride to the school.
When we arrived, our first task was to carve some vegetables.
Then we proceeded with the day’s menu:
Tom Jued – Clear soup with minced pork
Paw Pla Tord – Spring rolls
Gai Hor Bai Toey – Chicken in pandamus leaves
Gaeng Phed Ped Young – Red curry with roast duck
Gai Phad King – Chicken with ginger
Khao Neow Mamuang – Mango with sticky rice
My companions for my last day of class hailed from Paris, my favorite city. Throughout the day, we chatted about various subjects but at no point until the end of class when we were heading back did we actually exchange names. It’s interesting how much we collaborated, helped each other and exchanged information without needing to know specifics. We just had a friendly trusting symbiosis despite hailing from different parts of the world. I had studied French and they had studied English. Before parting ways, we exchanged contact information as my husband and I are planning on heading to Paris next summer and we wanted to get together during our time in town.
Cooking school was an amazing experience for me. I can’t cook everything I learned but I will definitely incorporate some of the techniques and will be recreating some of my favorite recipes when I get back.
I have zero hesitation recommending this particular cooking school but equally important, I thoroughly enjoyed spending time and getting to know each of my classmates and meeting people from all walks of life, from different parts of the U.S. and the world. What we all had in common is that we were looking to take ourselves out of our comfort zone and expand our horizons despite the challenges. Thank you to my classmates and to Ning but mostly to Pon who watched over my every move and with his special sense of humor and subtle sarcasm, helped me find my way.
Thai Cookery School
I had 3 other cooking schoolmates with me on the 4th day so we started our day at the market. After the introduction to some of the herbs and ingredients our class was going to be using, we ventured off in different directions.
I had tried the sai ua the day prior but I had a hankering for it again today. I first learned about it on Mark Wiens’ episode in Chiang Mai and how relatives in Bangkok considered it rude and disrespectful not to return with the sausage as a gift from the visit up north. Sai ua has a bit of hit with a subtle lemongrass aftertaste. If I lived in Chiang Mai, it would definitely be a daily breakfast treat with eggs and rice.
Another treat caught my eye on this visit to the market. My curiosity was piqued by several YouTube episodes in Chiang Mai. There’s a dessert that has a coconut custardy base with either green onion, cheese or pumpkin. I tried the first and latter at the market, courtesy of our instructor Pon who is friends with the owner of the stand.
He also had us sample what I will call a coconut burrito which was basically a gooey pancake exterior with coconut inside.
After our market visit, we were whisked off to the school where we prepared the following:
Phad Siewe – Fried Big Noodles with Sweet Soy Sauce
Hope Neung Plaa – Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves
Gaeng Gari Gai – Yellow Curry with Chicken
Gai Phad Med Mamuang – Chicken with Cashew Nuts
Plan Goong – Spicy Prawn Salad North Eastern Style
Kluay Buad Chee – Bananas in Coconut Milk
Pon gave the class a few pointers. To loosen up the thick noodles, pour a few tablespoons of oyster sauce with the noodles and manually separate them. With the oil in the wok cooking at high heat, there are only certain types of oils which should be used for Thai cooking. Vegetable, sunflower and peanut oil would suffice.
Also, because of the hot oil, unlike in Italian or even in Chinese cooking where the garlic is the first ingredient in the pan, the meat, be it pork, chicken, beef, shrimp or fish is first dropped into the wok and the garlic placed in shortly thereafter to prevent the burning of the garlic.
I can’t believe that tomorrow will be my last day but this week has definitely been enlightening and enriching. Looking forward to a strong finish!!
Thai Cookery School
I first heard about Khum Khantoke from Samantha Brown’s Asia series on the Travel Channel in 2010. I bought the series on Amazon and rewatched the Thailand episode again was inspired to go where she went for an evening of eats and entertainment. I thought an immersive cultural experience would be a fun midweek break during our week of classes so I booked a reservation online.
From our Airbnb, the Grab took about 15 minutes to get to the location which is northeast from city center.
On arrival, we marveled out how exotic and beautiful the the grounds were.
Once we entered the pavilion, you could see that the dining areas to the sides also served as seats for the performance. There was a stage and an entrance so the perimeter was essentially a square.
Our reservation was at 6:30 p.m and though we were a few minutes late, we were immediately served with coconut juice
and what would be round 1 of food which arrived in a circular rattan tray or “Toke” with two tiers of food.
Chiang Mai Style Banana Fritter
Clear Soup
Chiang Mai Style Pork Curry with Ginger & Tamarind Sauce
Deep Fried Chicken
Grilled Young Chili Paste With Steamed Vegetables
Minced Pork in Tomato Sauce
Crispy Pork Skin
Stir-Fried Mixed Vegetables
Crispy Rice Noodle
Sticky Rice or Steamed Rice
Seasonal Fresh Fruit
My husband complained that the food was cold but was pleasantly surprised that we were offered another round of everything which arrived much hotter and fresher than the first serving.
Because we ordered the premium Khantoke, we also received a side of what I believe was a fried cod dish.
For dessert, we also were served something I made in cooking class on Monday, water chestnuts with sugar syrup and coconut milk which is so incredibly easy to make and is ridiculously delicious. I was happy that I recognized it and could appreciate its flavor and simplicity.
At exactly 7:30, the show began.
The performance commenced with a parade, a welcome dance previously used to greet guests.
The next dance hailed from the Mae Hong Song province and was an interpretation about the animal legends of the region.
This was followed by a war dance with drummers.
Then next performance was a tribute to the princess for her cultural influence and for being such a strong role model to the Lanna culture.
The Khone performance was a reenactment of a section from a book by Ramakian which is renowned as the greatest literary work in Thailand.
Then there was a sword dance/demonstration which was followed by a segment about Thai fighting.
The evening ended with a dance performance by a group of women using coconut shells and the finale was a large group of dancers performing a simple dance which hailed from the central part of Thailand prior to WWII.
They brought in members from the audience to join them in the finale which was a nice touch.
The Khum Khantoke cultural center provided a beautiful ornate setting for an immersion in Lanna culture through its delicious and simple food, stunningly exotic setting and strikingly visual performance dedicated to its history.
This is definitely on my top recommend for anybody visiting Chiang Mai. It’s expensive compared to Thai standards but for dinner and a show, by American standards, it’s a bargain.
Khum Khantoke
http://www.khumkhantoke.com
We had walked by Hard Rock Cafe on one of our many jaunts to and from the night markets in the area. They seemed to have amazing bands playing so we finally decided to dine there on Monday night. It’s your typical themed restaurant. Living in Los Angeles, we’re quite familiar with the chain but are not frequent diners as it’s more of a novelty and not quite a foodie feast.
We started off our day heading out for breakfast for the first time since we arrived. We were low on milk and had not yet gone to the store so instead we headed to Choei Cafe and Bistro less than 5 minutes away. It had been on my list of previously vetted restaurants. The food and service had been rated to be superior and on our first night when we did nothing but go to dinner and get groceries, we had passed by it and noticed that nobody was dining there for dinner. Still, we weren’t dissuaded from trying it for breakfast.
We arrived a few minutes before opening time but the Open sign was already displayed. We took a few minutes to look at the menu as the breakfast options had both Western and Asian options but ultimately we decided to get a bit off of each menu.
The first to arrive was the chicken and rice porridge which was very similar to something I used to eat in the Philippines as a child. It had the look of oatmeal or grits as it had soft rice in it but had a savoriness that is common in soup and enhanced by the chunks of chicken. My husband was impressed with the flavor and ate it effusively.
He also ordered a veggie, chicken ham and cheese omelette as well as an Asian fusion pancake dish. The omelette tasted no different than one from home but the syrup for the pancake was not as dark as maple syrup. It tasted like a sugary corn syrup.
I ordered scrambled eggs which came with both thin slices of chicken ham and chicken sausage, three crispy hash brown triangles and a side of baked beans.
We also ordered citrus juice which tasted freshly squeezed and chilled. Choei Cafe is definitely more expensive than the standard street stall vendor but less expensive than American standards. For all of that delicious and filling food as well as a minute macchiato, it cost $25 for the two of us.
After breakfast, we were picked up by the Mae Ping River Cruise. I had shared with friends that my husband was “watted” out from Friday’s outing. Lo and behold, the river cruise parking lot was behind a massive wat. We didn’t opt to explore but I took a few photos while waiting for the boat to depart.
We joined a small group of Asian tourists and a German couple on the boat.
We stopped off at an organic farm were allowed to wander around. We saw two women preparing their entrees for the cooking school on-site. To the left was the open-aired restaurant engulfed in the trees, rice paddy and gardens. There were signs and explanations in front of certain plants providing Information on their healing and medicinal uses. We were escorted to tables overlooking the river. A large Australian group of mostly teenagers and a few adult escorts arrived and they all had a very early lunch of traditional Thai cuisine.
We were served with sliced pineapple and watermelon and glasses of tamarind, ginger, lemongrass and lychee flavored juice before heading back.
Shockingly and sadly, we came across a dead floating body in the river. It gave the rest of the trip back a more somber feel. He looked to be in between his 50’s and 60’s and had a white plastic back floating above his chest with some items in it. It was a reminder that we weren’t living in a bubble despite being on vacation. People lived and died in Chiang Mai every day. We needed to be mindful, respectful and grateful not to be in his shoes.
After the cruise, we headed to Vieng Joom On Teahouse. I had read on other blogs and city guides how beautiful and quaint it was inside. On the outside, it stood out with its Pepto Bismol paint but on the inside, it had a very different feel. There was still a great deal of pink accents interspersed throughout but it had a more exotic feeling with all the teas and accessories. On entering, you walked into the tea shop with bags of different types of tea, teapots and cups available for purchase and desserts in display cases beckoning you to sample them. The dining room opened up to the light as it was also riverside. The decor had a bit of an opulent Moorish vibe, with arched nooks carved into the walls and Moroccan inspired upholstery on the chairs and pillows
I had previously purchased the tea and dessert portion of the meal on Klook but we needed a more substantial lunch so we ordered a few other items off of the vegetarian menu. We started off with pot of a combination of black and green tea accented with Jasmine. It was quite smooth and fragrant.
Then our main dishes arrived. The pesto sauce on the pasta was very rich and dense in flavor. It was definitely not doused in olive oil like in Italian restaurants. The mushroom roti, which was basically a quesadilla, was quite tangy and gooey and had a thousand island inspired sauce to dip it in or to top it off. Lastly the fresh crispy veggie spring rolls had a thin layer of scrambled egg as its outer shell giving it a unique spin making it more like a sushi roll rather than a tradition egg roll. Everything was quite delicious and though it had a similar and familiar foundation, the tea house built and enhanced the look and quality adding a different layer of taste and flavor to each dish.
We finished off our experience with the three tiers of sweets.
On the top tier was a tradition buttermilk scone and a not-so-traditional strawberry scone with a bit of butter and jam to accompany them.
On the middle tier was a blueberry cheesecake with little chocolate butterflies on top of the small sections of cream.
On the bottom layer were chunks of papaya, mango, Apple and cantaloupe. It was about a $50 meal so definitely not Thai prices but the setting and relaxed vibe had a heightened luxury so it definitely set it apart from our standard day-to-day fare.
After a brief workout back at the Airbnb, we were picked up by The Home Massage & Spa. We scheduled a 2 hour deep tissue oil massage.
On arrival, we were greeted with a cold compress and cold tea. Our feet were washed and we are given slippers to walk into our massage room. Inside, the room had its own bathroom complete with a shower to go with the two beds. Just like at Lila, we were given black plastic underwear and I was given a very thin shower cap. My massage was far improved from Friday’s experience. Though she did start stretches on the feet and calves, it was just a way to start warming up the body. She did pressure points on the back first which is the type of massage we were used to. What made it uncomfortable was my arms were in a touchdown position for most of the time. Also, there were a few instances when she was using her elbow to rub up and I felt it was too close to my spine. Similar to the therapist of Lila, she worked on my chest but I was properly covered up with a thin layer of material and she worked on the periphery and she also worked on my belly but with a bit more finesse.
After the massage, we were given a hot tea and peanut butter cookies.
With tip, it cost $65 which was more than double what we paid for our hour and a half massage at Lila, and it’s still a fraction of what we would normally pay and the setting was more private and a bit more upscale. However, we felt that the massage was still lacking. We were both hoping for it to be less expensive, for the massage therapists to incorporate more hip and flute work during the treatment, for the massage bed to not be so stiff and for elbow usage used less frequently. Though the technique and bedside manner were significantly better than our experience at Lila, it still didn’t warrant a return visit or a solid recommendation.
Hunger pangs were knocking so we had the spa’s driver drop us off at Sunday’s Night Market. After spending an excessive amount of money by Thai standards for the majority of the day, I wanted to have a more traditional frugal dinner experience so we made a beeline into the alley for Lert Ros which is a seafood restaurant quite well known in those parts. Upon seeing the exterior and the display of exposed fish, my husband asked “is it safe to eat here?” To assuage his apprehension, I showed him that TripAdvisor had over 800 4 1/2 star reviews for the restaurant though I honestly could not blame him. It was definitely rustic and looked to be a large hole in the wall. The “kitchen” looked to be all outside, with the grills covered with large pieces of fish. It was surrounded with a mishmash of both food and kitchen supplies. I proceeded to seat us inside, at a table right underneath a fan.
We ordered a large red snapper, grilled shrimp and a coconut lemongrass chicken soup with some beer and sticky rice. Not surprisingly, the food was sensational and was a great value costing us 550 baht which is $18USD. Lert Ros just goes to prove that you can’t judge a book by its cover and also simultaneously and concurrently, how social media can help make or break a business. By the time we left, nearly every table was occupied mostly by Asian women and a few Asian men, some of whom were clearly of the upper echelon.
We ended our evening by walking at the Sunday Night Market for a bit. Having been to one nearly every night, the Sunday Night Market definitely had some unique items to purchase. I bought a painting on a canvas for 200 baht which is the equivalent of $6.51 USD. Being Asian myself I did negotiate him down from 250 to 200 but I wanted to be respectful since he was in the business of selling his artwork. I also bought some unique bookmarks: 6 for 10 baht or 3 cents.
As we could feel a few sprinkles and the sky was looking ominous with the street vendors adding their rain covering and the night market was getting more crowded with each passing minute, we decided to head back. We still needed to make a pit stop at the store to get more supplies for the week. Also, we needed to run a second load of laundry as the oppressive heat and humidity caused nonstop sweating throughout most of the day. More importantly, we wanted to be rested as Monday we both go back to school. On to the next phase of our vacation!
Grace Gambin
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