https://www.fiftyonekitchen.com
Ciro & Sal’s began its humble beginnings in 1953 in the quaint town of Provincetown, Massachusetts. What evolved into a local gathering place for artists and would-be chefs began as a humble sandwich shop co-owned and run by two local artists, Ciro Cozzi and Sal Del Deo. Sixty five years later, it still remains one of Cape Cod’s most beloved establishments where locals and visitors are welcome to indulge in deliciously decadent Italian dishes while sipping on wine and enjoying each other’s company.
At first sight, one can immediately sense that the dining experience at Ciro’s and Sal’s will be unlike any other. It is located down an alley that could easily be mistaken for a charming crushed shell entrance to a Cape Cod home. The restaurant’s iconic sign hanging from a white wood post on Commercial street steers you down the alleyway where you notice vintage inspired marquee letters spelling out the restaurant’s name, illuminated against the white wooden gateway. Behind the gate is a lush garden oasis beckoning you to enter. Potted plants and flowers line your steps, as you walk up to the gazebo where guests can dine on a warm summer evening under the canopy of darkness.
Romantically lit by the moon and with strings of outdoor lights woven between the trees above. As you enter the front door of the restaurant you can already sense that this will not be your typical restaurant experience.
Walking into the wine cellar dining room, the interior is warmly lit with exposed wood beamed ceilings and brick walls. Aromas of roasted garlic and sautéed seafood flood the air. There are straw clad canisters of Chianti bottles hanging from the rafters and the beams interspersed throughout the restaurant. The fireplace illuminates the room, evoking a cozy vibe, signaling the guests to unwind, relax, and enjoy the feeling of coming home.
The heart of a restaurant is in its ability to tell its story through its food and drinks. Diners repeatedly give high marks to dishes like Ostriche Giannini (Wellfleet oysters baked with pesto and parmigiana), Bruschetta (roasted eggplant, tomatoes and mozzarella on homemade pesto bread) and Calamari (fresh and locally caught). Their pasta is cooked perfectly al dente with the Carbonara and the garlic infused Vongole Bianco ranked as favorites. The restaurant’s signature sauce is SUGO which is a thick basil seasoned Italian red sauce having a gravy-like consistency. It serves as the base for their traditional Italian dishes such as the Veal Parmigiana, Lasagna and for their simpler pasta offerings like the Salsiccia and Polpete. Their seafood selection is always top notch as the restaurant’s close proximity to the sea ensures the freshness of each dish. To round out the dining experience, Ciro & Sal’s wine selection provides options from the various regions of Italy along with a sprinkling of French, California and Argentina offerings.
A new addition to Ciro & Sal’s is the wine bar tucked away upstairs, above the hustle and bustle of the busy dining room. The dimmed pendant lights set against the dark wood gives the space warmth and depth, evoking a sense of intimacy, much like a secret hideaway. Here one can quietly enjoy a sampling of wine flights and antipasti while unwinding from their day.
The current owner, Larry Luster, built his life from the ground up at Ciro & Sal’s. In the 1960’s he visited Provincetown from Chattanooga, Tennessee. Larry was hired as a dishwasher and connected with Ciro who began mentoring him, giving him a job that year and every summer thereafter. He started his tenure in the kitchen, eventually working his way to the front of of the house, becoming a highly requested server. During the day, he worked as the prep chef, making all of the sauces and base stocks from scratch, as well as the preparation of the produce and the meat for the evening’s dinner service.
Larry makes it his mission to ensure the quality and integrity of each dish on the menu and oversees every detail in the kitchen with a watchful eye. He is hands- on with every operation, from dicing the vegetables for the minestrone, to breaking down a whole cow leg each week, as well as preparing the restaurant’s renowned dishes like Bolognese and Philomena from scratch. His son Caleb now serves as the head chef while his son Zach runs the front of the house, establishing rapport with the local community, building relationships with those who have visited the restaurant over the decades as well as customer who are just passing through town on their holiday.
Ciro & Sal’s is truly a gem in Provincetown, not just because of its longstanding history as being the mainstay of delicious northern Italian cuisine, but also because it gives back to those in need. Since 2014, for each party that dines at the restaurant, a box of pasta is donated to shelters and soup kitchens in the area. Under Ciro & Sal’s One Meal at a Time program, the restaurant donates twice a year to local organizations to help feed people in need and to also build awareness that not everybody has the means or access to a warm, nourishing meal.
Over the years, Ciro & Sal’s has thrived, with lines consistently out the door. Loyal customers have been journeying to the restaurant for decades, bringing their families together to experience old world Italy, continuing the tradition by introducing the younger generation to its charming evocative setting. Ciro & Sal’s has always been family run and owned, and the heart and soul of its family is what has helped this gem of a restaurant endure the test of time.
Ciro & Sal’s
4 Kiley Ct
Provincetown, MA 02657
(508) 487-6444
Christmas Day was another leisurely day spent on Mactan island which had us finally seeing a couple of local sights within walking distance from the condo. We have been fortunate to have the use of a Vision Global wifi router which has worked like a dream in the Philippines where other Wifi routers aren’t readily available so google maps was easily and accurately accessible.
After breakfast and a morning workout, we set off to check out the Mactan Shrine where the Lapu Lapu statue is erected in front of the Magellan monument. Google maps had us walking through an immensely poor area which was a sharp contrast to where we were staying. Still, unlike in Mexico and in Jamaica where adults and kids alike came up to us shamelessly to beg for money, we were left alone with only a few inquisitive stares.
Unfortunately, it was still difficult and jarring to see the stark difference in their quality of life which makes even the poorest living on the streets in the U.S. look privileged as the poverty level in this neighborhood is at least three notches below what we see and know in the States. It’s truly heart wrenching to witness and yet the locals manage to find ways to keep on plugging away and make the best of life.
The kids are out on the streets enjoying the sunshine. The teenage boys play basketball with their friends. The parents peek out of their hovels to make sure no harm comes to their offspring. It’s their regular lives in motion.
As perhaps a distraction from the local elements or a reminder of what strength and determination can accomplish, the Mactan shrine is located on the same street and is ensconced in a small gated enclosure around the corner. There are some souvenir stalls on the inside to the right of the monument but overall, it’s a fairly small contained space.
Right outside of it is a parking lot where all the tour vans are parked. What I was interested in was a well-received seafood restaurant which was located past the vans and nestled within the dark sketchy shopping alley.
Manna STK is similar to D’Talipapa in Boracay which was one of our favorite eats. They have a display case of seafood which is prepared to your liking.
We chose the garlic butter shrimp and a grilled fish with garlic rice for lunch and were directed to choose a table.
Manna STK offers two dining areas. The open air upstairs dining room had a view of the waterway but we opted to sit in the fully air conditioned room downstairs.
During our short wait for lunch, I walked around and read a bit about the city’s history. Lapu Lapu had been named after the great warrior who despite having inferior weapons had killed and vanquished the Spaniards including Magellan.
There was also an explanation of the province’s unique rice prep. We had been served puso during our three island tour so it was nice to gain an understanding and appreciation of how it came to be.
Lunch arrived piecemeal as each dish was ready. Our plate of garlic butter shrimp was perfectly cooked and not too greasy. The meat of the grilled whole fish was moist and flaky and easy to scrape from the bone. The food was rustic and delicious but by American standards was inexpensive. Our entire seafood meal with beers and water cost the financial equivalent of $38!
In direct contrast, our $150 dinner was a splurge. We had reservations at Abaca which was at one of the many oceanfront luxury resorts. The socioeconomic divide was even worse on that main road. On one side you had your Shangri-la, Movenpick and Abaca luxury resorts with their gates, security guards, lush landscaping and luxury vehicles parked in the valet areas and directly across the street, you had the poorest of the poor staring at you as you entered or vacated your plush surroundings. As beautiful as the resorts were, I was glad to not be staying there and dealing with that in-your-face guilt on a daily basis.
Dinner at Abaca was set in a very dim open air restaurant cooled off only by fans. It was a stark contrast to the boisterous festivities we experienced at Shangri-la just the night before. The food was plentiful and amazing but very subdued and refined.
We saved the crab and scallop cakes to eat with our morning breakfast but based on the few bites we had at dinner, we could tell they were densely packed, blended evenly with caramelized lemon and roasted pepper. We also ordered a four cheese flatbread which was the equivalent of a simple margarita pizza with an arugula leaf in the middle, adding another layer of flavor to each square. The organic whole chicken was moist with a slightly crispy lemony exterior sitting on a bed of garlic sausage cassoulet. It came with a side of tender roasted broccoli which added a bit of color to our meal. The mushroom risotto was perfectly cooked, densely packed with scallops with a hint of truffle. I also ordered a side of fries which were mealy on the inside and slightly crispy on the outside. We rounded off our meal with a chilled chocolate fondant which was served with a square of thick fudge. The combo was super decadent and had we finished it onsite, we would have been awake for hours. Luckily, because our condo has a fridge, we didn’t have to leave anything behind and were able to have nearly our entire Abaca dinner part deux the next evening.
Our Christmas Day was a vision of contrasts. It really made us think about life, people and the sense of community. The gratitude we felt after seeing such humble settings overwhelmed us. We are very fortunate to have experienced Christmas in Cebu and to see life through the eyes of others, helping us shift our focus and gain perspective and clarity.
Wifi router: https://visionglobalwifi.com
Mactan shrine: https://www.fabulousphilippines.com/mactan-shrine.html
Manna STK: https://www.freewebs.com/MannaSTK/
Abaca: http://www.abacaresort.com/restaurant.html
Grace Gambin
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