When one envisions an amazing French dining experience, one might conjure up images of a dimly lit bistro on the Left Bank of the Seine or an outdoor restaurant in Aix-en-Provence sheltered by a canopy of trees or maybe one imagines a life-altering meal at Julia Child’s beloved Le Couronne in Rouen. My husband and I have sampled traditional French fare in the City of Lights and in Marseilles though nothing we ate during our holiday was of particular note. Surprisingly, it wasn’t until our recent vacation to Chiang Mai that we finally understood the rabid excitement and gleeful anticipation most feel about a French dining experience.
La Terrasse was on my short list of non-Thai restaurants up for consideration for a random meal when needing a break from the traditional food of the city. I had seen that it was ranked #41 of restaurants in Chiang Mai on TripAdvisor, and I had visited their website, noting the quaint setting and cozy vibes. I didn’t think we would have the chance to visit but lo and behold, we lucked into having our last meal there before heading to the airport to fly back home.
The restaurant is on a main thoroughfare but is tucked and nestled away, further back down a small alleyway.
The lush arched entrance stood halfway down the alley with the restaurant’s offerings displayed on a long rectangular wooden display case to the right.
Beyond the archway was the outdoor patio with an arched path leading to the front entrance of the restaurant.
We opted to dine inside, sheltered from the heat and humidity.
Once in the restaurant, it felt as if you had been whisked away to France. There was a display case of delicious diet-busting desserts likely baked in butter, full fat milk with artery and gut clogging cheese which obviously indicated their deliciously divine decadence.
The style of the booths, the woodwork, the drapes, chairs and even the photographs and artwork were all reminiscent of the decor of many of the bistros we visited in Paris.
We began by ordering what would be our last drink on holiday and toasting our amazing vacation.
We ordered the tomato basil soup which came in a rustic bowl with crispy thick sourdough croutons on the side. It was rich but not overly thick and the tomato had the subtle hint of basil and cream. The croutons added a bit of crunch and texture.
Next up was the mushroom omelette with fried potatoes browned in duck fat. That was the dish that seemed so incredibly simple but oh so divine and made us understand the simplistic exquisiteness of true French cooking. The omelette was cooked just right with the perfect amount of mushroom and cheese which had fused into each other. The potatoes had fully absorbed the flavor and were extraordinarily crispy and juicy from the duck fat. Combined, the omelette and potatoes were exceptional.
The spaghetti arrived twirled beautifully in a small bowl with a decent dollop of the carbonara sauce atop the pasta and though the sauce was thick it wasn’t too rich or overpowering.
We ended our meal with a moist and juicy grilled salmon which was served with a very creamy large serving of mashed potatoes and a slightly pickled lemon cream herb dipping sauce for the salmon.
The setting, the presentation and the subtle sophisticated delicate balance of the melding of flavors in the simple dishes offered by La Terrasse helped us to finally truly understand and appreciate French cuisine.
Sometimes the path to enlightenment takes you on a few twists and turns and that’s when you realize that it’s all about the journey. Merci beaucoup to La Terrasse for our transformative French dining experience in the heart of Thailand.
La Terrasse: http://www.laterrasse-chiangmai.com
Ciro & Sal’s began its humble beginnings in 1953 in the quaint town of Provincetown, Massachusetts. What evolved into a local gathering place for artists and would-be chefs began as a humble sandwich shop co-owned and run by two local artists, Ciro Cozzi and Sal Del Deo. Sixty five years later, it still remains one of Cape Cod’s most beloved establishments where locals and visitors are welcome to indulge in deliciously decadent Italian dishes while sipping on wine and enjoying each other’s company.
At first sight, one can immediately sense that the dining experience at Ciro’s and Sal’s will be unlike any other. It is located down an alley that could easily be mistaken for a charming crushed shell entrance to a Cape Cod home. The restaurant’s iconic sign hanging from a white wood post on Commercial street steers you down the alleyway where you notice vintage inspired marquee letters spelling out the restaurant’s name, illuminated against the white wooden gateway. Behind the gate is a lush garden oasis beckoning you to enter. Potted plants and flowers line your steps, as you walk up to the gazebo where guests can dine on a warm summer evening under the canopy of darkness.
Romantically lit by the moon and with strings of outdoor lights woven between the trees above. As you enter the front door of the restaurant you can already sense that this will not be your typical restaurant experience.
Walking into the wine cellar dining room, the interior is warmly lit with exposed wood beamed ceilings and brick walls. Aromas of roasted garlic and sautéed seafood flood the air. There are straw clad canisters of Chianti bottles hanging from the rafters and the beams interspersed throughout the restaurant. The fireplace illuminates the room, evoking a cozy vibe, signaling the guests to unwind, relax, and enjoy the feeling of coming home.
The heart of a restaurant is in its ability to tell its story through its food and drinks. Diners repeatedly give high marks to dishes like Ostriche Giannini (Wellfleet oysters baked with pesto and parmigiana), Bruschetta (roasted eggplant, tomatoes and mozzarella on homemade pesto bread) and Calamari (fresh and locally caught). Their pasta is cooked perfectly al dente with the Carbonara and the garlic infused Vongole Bianco ranked as favorites. The restaurant’s signature sauce is SUGO which is a thick basil seasoned Italian red sauce having a gravy-like consistency. It serves as the base for their traditional Italian dishes such as the Veal Parmigiana, Lasagna and for their simpler pasta offerings like the Salsiccia and Polpete. Their seafood selection is always top notch as the restaurant’s close proximity to the sea ensures the freshness of each dish. To round out the dining experience, Ciro & Sal’s wine selection provides options from the various regions of Italy along with a sprinkling of French, California and Argentina offerings.
A new addition to Ciro & Sal’s is the wine bar tucked away upstairs, above the hustle and bustle of the busy dining room. The dimmed pendant lights set against the dark wood gives the space warmth and depth, evoking a sense of intimacy, much like a secret hideaway. Here one can quietly enjoy a sampling of wine flights and antipasti while unwinding from their day.
The current owner, Larry Luster, built his life from the ground up at Ciro & Sal’s. In the 1960’s he visited Provincetown from Chattanooga, Tennessee. Larry was hired as a dishwasher and connected with Ciro who began mentoring him, giving him a job that year and every summer thereafter. He started his tenure in the kitchen, eventually working his way to the front of of the house, becoming a highly requested server. During the day, he worked as the prep chef, making all of the sauces and base stocks from scratch, as well as the preparation of the produce and the meat for the evening’s dinner service.
Larry makes it his mission to ensure the quality and integrity of each dish on the menu and oversees every detail in the kitchen with a watchful eye. He is hands- on with every operation, from dicing the vegetables for the minestrone, to breaking down a whole cow leg each week, as well as preparing the restaurant’s renowned dishes like Bolognese and Philomena from scratch. His son Caleb now serves as the head chef while his son Zach runs the front of the house, establishing rapport with the local community, building relationships with those who have visited the restaurant over the decades as well as customer who are just passing through town on their holiday.
Ciro & Sal’s is truly a gem in Provincetown, not just because of its longstanding history as being the mainstay of delicious northern Italian cuisine, but also because it gives back to those in need. Since 2014, for each party that dines at the restaurant, a box of pasta is donated to shelters and soup kitchens in the area. Under Ciro & Sal’s One Meal at a Time program, the restaurant donates twice a year to local organizations to help feed people in need and to also build awareness that not everybody has the means or access to a warm, nourishing meal.
Over the years, Ciro & Sal’s has thrived, with lines consistently out the door. Loyal customers have been journeying to the restaurant for decades, bringing their families together to experience old world Italy, continuing the tradition by introducing the younger generation to its charming evocative setting. Ciro & Sal’s has always been family run and owned, and the heart and soul of its family is what has helped this gem of a restaurant endure the test of time.
Ciro & Sal’s
4 Kiley Ct
Provincetown, MA 02657
(508) 487-6444
Grace Gambin
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