Cartagena had been on our bucket list as it promised beautiful colored buildings, delicious eats and a peek into the South American culture.
As I had already booked our Christmas holiday at the nearby island of Curacao, I thought it would be a nice change to have back-to-back vacations over the holiday break. I found a hotel in Cartagena, the Hyatt Regency, which was about $120 per night with breakfast so I booked it in January of 2022 and frankly didn’t think about it for months as I had two other vacations which predated the Caribbean/South American adventure. By the time I was ready to book air travel, I decided to cut the Cartagena trip short by one day but realized upon logging on that the nightly rate had increased to over $400. I contacted a Hyatt representative who suggested I keep my existing booking because if I made any changes, the nightly rate would be bumped up to the higher amount. I took her advice and months later, we were on our flight from Curacao with a short layover in Bogota. While at the airport in Bogota, I opted to pay for the Avianca lounge which promised a few samplings of food and beverages. It took some effort to find the lounge as it was on the opposite end of the building past security. There were only a few guests eating and resting in the lounge so finding a table was not an issue. After we dropped off our bags, we headed over to the food stations to find some late-night sustenance.
I spotted the potato with bacon sprinkles and as I was investigating the soup, I saw that a girl had nachos so I asked where she got them. She pointed to where I initially picked up the patatas so I backtracked and got myself a nice helping. I also grabbed a bowl of some creamy soup and ate the potatoes, bacon and soup together. On my way back from getting orange juice, I saw that fresh food had been set next to where the potatoes were.
I asked what it was and she said it was an egg wrap which was essentially a cheese quesadilla. Satiated, we got onto the next leg of the flight to our final destination.
As neither of us spoke Spanish and we were set to arrive after 10 p.m., I previously arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to our lodging for the week. Upon arrival at the Hyatt, we waited a few minutes to check in as there was a small queue and then we proceeded to head to our room where we immediately ordered room service.
As I unpacked and organized our belongings, our dinner arrived which we ate quickly, and we were finally able to nod off for the evening.
The next day, we woke up and looked out our floor to ceiling window and saw Cartagena in its full glory. Though there was quite a bit of work being done on the beach and road outside of our hotel, it was a glorious sight to behold as we had a 180-degree view of the ocean. Delighted and ready to start our day, we headed out to sample our first breakfast at the hotel.
I had booked a room with Club Access which afforded us a daily buffet breakfast and happy hour in their club lounge.
It was one of the best perks of the trip. The lounge was two doors down from our room and offered the same magnificent floor to ceiling view of the ocean and the beachside area. After breakfast, we headed to the gym, which was surprisingly expansive and also had great floor to ceiling windows, and after our workout, we changed clothes and headed out to the city.
Our first local outing was to El Bony Kiosk owned by a famous local boxer which was a 21-minute walk south of where our hotel was located. It was our first authentic insight into the city and the walk to this famous restaurant was challenging. At the time of our visit, parts of the sidewalks were closed off and undergoing construction. Street traffic was constant and loud. The streets were in disrepair, and part of our walk involved walking over muddied streets and broken concrete. There were vendors at every turn offering their wares, recreational drugs and women, and there were some foul street smells which wafted our way. We chose to ignore it and trek south, sweating buckets as the heat, sun and humidity tried their best to wear us down. By the time we arrived at the beachfront restaurant, even my iPhone camera lens needed to be defogged.
The restaurant fortunately had indoor dining with many fans circulating air. Once we were seated, I placed my bag on the back of my chair. In Spanish, an older gentleman gestured that I should have my bag in front of me at all times, because it would easily be stolen. The waitresses spoke very little English, but we were able to communicate what we wanted to order.
The fillet of the day was a sea bass which was nicely grilled with a bit of seasoning.
My husband ordered a shrimp pasta dish which was cooked al dente and the shrimp was petite but delicious. I normally steer clear of plantains but what was served was exceptional. It was flattened, deep fried, lightly salted and quite honestly, addicting.
After lunch, we headed back towards the hotel but made a side detour to a parallel street which very much was your typical congested city street so it took us out of vacation mode for a bit. We needed to stock up on bottled water for our room so once we had those in our possession, we headed back to the hotel.
At this point, we were definitely overheated so a much-needed stop at the pool was in order. We rested a bit before getting ready for an early dinner in the old city. Luckily, we had reserved an Uber ride a few hours prior as it would have been impossible to get one when we actually needed to leave. It was the middle of rush hour traffic so our driver had to drop us off outside the city wall, and we meandered our way to Buena Vida using Google maps.
The restaurant was set in a beautiful colorful and picturesque part of the city with a stunning view of the streets of the walled city. As a bonus, there was a live trio playing music during our meal. Parched and starving, we immediately ordered drinks and all things savory.
The ceviche was unique with the coconut milk and pork cracklings. The fish was incredibly tender and savory.
The crispy plantains added a bit of texture.
My shrimp dish was phenomenal. It had a bit of sweetness from the coconut rice but the lemongrass and pepper sauce dialed it down.
My husband’s “mac & sea” was incredibly rich and decadent. Definitely a diet buster!!
After dinner, we headed to Townhouse for some post dinner dessert and drinks. It was renowned for being one of the top bars in the city, and it did not disappoint.
It had beautiful rooftop views of the city and we were definitely with the “in crowd.”
We ordered a few drinks and also a decadent Oreo dessert which admittedly took a little longer to be served.
After the additional sustenance, we walked around to experience a bit more of the city’s vibe, but we somehow meandered outside of the city walls and into a much grittier part of town so we decided to flag down a taxi and head back to the hotel for the evening.
The next morning, we had a 10 a.m. old city tour so we headed out shortly after breakfast and decided to walk instead of taking a cab or uber so that we could work off our breakfast. It wasn’t as daunting of a walk as the morning prior. Heading north seemed and felt safer as the more touristy part of town was in that vicinity. We passed by a few military personnel taking a meal break by the park, and surprisingly, the sidewalks and streets heading to the city center were not dilapidated and in excellent condition. Once we arrived at the designated meeting site, we waited until more people had congregated before the tour began.
Cartagena’s history was similar to Curacao’s where we had just spent Christmas. As with many colonies, the city was sieged, plundered and their natural resources were taken.
Many of the indigenous people were killed to make room for some wealthy and privileged people who opted to stay and take over the best parts of the city. Our guide, Elis, was great, very boisterous and quite funny so it was definitely time well spent. She regaled us with stories about pirates and privateers burning down the main city, and the natives being slaughtered, tortured or purified during the Spanish Inquisition. The Cartagenans took pride in surviving all the horrific crimes committed against their people. Financial success though has evaded the majority of the population. In present day, 75% are considered lower class while the remaining fall in the middle and upper class so there’s still a huge gap of socioeconomic disparity.
After the enlightening tour, we headed to La Cevicheria where many moons ago, Anthony Bourdain dined. We ordered quite a few items from the menu, perhaps too many as the portions were huge.
The tasty light, crispy potato chips served with the hot picante sauce and mild mustard sauce started out our gourmet experience.
The Colombian mixed ceviche was their specialty and did not disappoint. The shrimp was plump and the fish was cubed, sitting in a lime, parsley marinade. The shrimp brava was a beautiful surprise.
The shrimp had a bit of paprika and the sauce had smoky tomato base. The slices of avocado added a nice creamy and pop of contrasting color to the dish.
The lobster paella was massive. Two half lobster tails were served atop a bed of shrimp, squid, mussels, clams, bell peppers and savory wet Spanish rice.
After lunch, we took a taxi back to our hotel and had a brief rest before heading to the gym for an afternoon workout. Once we checked that off our list, we went back to our room to get ready for dinner.
The economic disparity mentioned in our city tour became readily apparent when we decided to walk to dinner in the Old City at night. Though it was wonderful to see how the locals spent their leisure time, seeing the street activities, the hordes of people with their friends and family, walking through dark and ominous alleyways was a stark contrast to our dinner experience at Cande which was the most upscale restaurant we visited.
All the patrons were dressed to the nines, men were required to wear closed toe shoes and some of the women even brought their designer bags. The venue oozed of privilege.
We were served with a starter of what appeared to be a donut. It was warm, sugary with a hint of anise. It had a slightly mealy texture and was incredibly unique.
The appetizer guiso de mariscos del Mercado seafood stew was delicious, had a creamy tomato base with perfectly cooked pieces of shrimp, conch and squid.
My crab dish was savory with almost a stew like consistency alongside the chunks of crab. The red sauce added a bit of bitterness to each bite.
My husband’s fish dish was cheesy and a bit more dense with shredded potatoes on top of the sweet black coconut rice. What followed was my husband’s review of his entree. “It’s the best dish I’ve ever had. Every bite is just great. Deliciouso!”
For dessert, the coconut pie was served warm and was literally just shreds of coconut. The chocolate drops added a bittersweet bite. The ice cream was tart which was an interesting contrast but might have been too overpowering for the dish. Vanilla may have been a more complimentary option.
In addition to the delicious food, there were several performers and dancers who meandered throughout the restaurant wearing vibrant over-the top costumes which was quite entertaining and made for a lively and festive dinner experience.
The next morning, we decided to head to the fort. I considered walking, but it was a really warm morning. When we arrived downstairs, the concierge mentioned that the white and green vehicles often parked in the hotel’s driveway were the most honest of all rideshares in the city. The drivers have a fixed rate regardless of time and traffic. He offered us a ride in one that was available, and we headed off to our destination.
Once we paid for our entrance tickets, we opted to hire a tour guide on site. Ulysses was an older gentleman who had a lot of zest and enthusiasm in the city’s history. Cartagena was the second oldest city in Colombia and established in 1533. He mentioned that the fort was designed from top to bottom by a Dutch architect named Richard Carr. There were seven small forts inside the big fort with 65 cannons. The Spanish came and took the gold, silver and emeralds from the Indians and shipped them to Spain. From then on out, the city was plagued with pirates robbing the city and Spain, France and England besieged Cartagena with battles for control of the city. The fort was built as a means for the Spanish and Cartagenans to protect their families and homes. During one of the battles, they had a stroke of luck when the British drank water and got diarrhea, yellow fever, malaria and tropical disease. However, for the other attacks, the fort had very strategically placed defenses at various levels. There were areas where soldier could hide and shoot from a concealed area or angles which shielded the shooters from being seen by intruders above.
The soldiers spent months in the tunnel adjusting to the darkness so they would have the advantage of finding their way in times of battle.
Each section of the fort had canons specifically pointed in certain strategic angles for maximum protection. Some canons were designed to move left to right which gave them more flexibility in warding off attackers. It was a fascinating education and insight into how the people came together to protect their city from invaders.
After our tour, we got a ride back into town to have a much more humble and reasonably priced lunch at 1595. It had a beautiful courtyard which had outdoor tables. Luckily, they also had air-conditioned indoor dining available. We ordered from their lunch menu.
The soup had a really nice savory flavor as it had beef bone, potatoes, celery, carrots, pepper. It reminded me of traditional Filipino soups that cooked on the stove for hours.
My fish entree was almost like a fish chowder, thick and creamy with celery and onions. Accompanying the lightly breaded fish filet was a large serving of rice, a small salad and possibly red sweetened plantains.
My husband’s chicken and mushroom was also exceptional. The chicken breast had been pounded and cooked in a creamy mushroom sauce.
The rest of the accompaniments were the same.
We were also served a small serving of a refreshing jello dessert.
After lunch, we had our first of two massages at Uraku Spa. I had a massage from a pregnant lady who was phenomenal. My husband and I each opted for the 90-minute deep tissue massage and by the time we headed out, we were utterly relaxed.
We took a taxi back to our hotel and had a snack in the hotel’s lounge and brief rest before getting ready for dinner.
Originally, we had dinner reservations at Mardeleva which was renowned for their coconut shrimp but during our city tour, we met a family who had recently dined at Carmen and gave it rave reviews. I had read about it but thought it was a bit expensive but hearing them describe the dishes, I opted to try to put us on the waitlist. After we were dropped off in front of Mardeleva, I received a WhatsApp notification that a table was available for us at Carmen. Luckily, the restaurant wasn’t too far away so we practically ran to get there on time.
Carmen was like a beautiful jewelry box, and we were fortunately seated in their outdoor Spanish courtyard where we could listen to the musicians during our dinner service.
The complimentary plantain with fish and coffee tasted more like a dessert than a starter. It tasted sour but with a strong coffee undercurrent and also a bit tart. One would never think to pair all these three flavors together but it worked and was exceptional!!
The fish had a slightly crisp exterior, immersed in a coconut sauce with a risotto which was perfectly al dente.
The short rib was tender, served with a sprinkling of chives giving it a sweet flavor. The mashed potatoes beneath had a creamy texture with an oyster aftertaste. It was yet another fantastic dining experience in the Old City.
On our fourth day, we decided to take the morning off and just lounge at the hotel. We ate breakfast, worked out at the gym and then lounged and ate lunch by the pool. The lower level pool was much more expansive and had a bar and restaurant adjoining it. It was really nice to just decompress and enjoy the hotel and its amenities.
Later in the afternoon, we headed back into town for a walking tour of Getsemani. It was a transitional neighborhood which had beautifully vibrant murals and a very lively local scene.
We watched a group of guys playing dominoes, saw artists selling their work and observed patrons visiting the local restaurants and bars. Our tour guide even took us to his home where we watched his grandson play soccer in the streets. He shared that at one point, the area was populated with drug dealers and in a calculated measure to push them out and make it more habitable, they put up the beautiful umbrellas at the top of the street where the drugs were being sold and built a playground around the corner, creating a more festive and family-oriented neighborhood where parents could feel safe raising their kids.
After our tour, we walked over to our dinner reservation at El Arsenal.
They had my name on a lit tablet at the table reserved for us which was a lovely touch.
Since it was a rum bar, we did sample a few. For dinner, we started with the seared sesame tuna with salad. The ahi seared tuna was a dish I made at home on a weekly basis, and I have to say my homemade version was better and more flavorful. However, the orzo was spectacular. It had cheese and veggies, and was really herbaceous. The steak was fine, a bit thick but still tender. The chicken was also good but not great. Overall, El Arsenal was fine but compared with the other exceptional restaurants, it left a bit to be desired. The staff though, was incredibly hospitable and gracious during our visit.ß
Our last full day in Cartagena was New Year’s Eve, and we headed back into the Old City too try out Mardeleva which we spontaneously skipped the other evening in favor of the last-minute reservation at Carmen. Unfortunately, as luck would have it, Mardeleva was closed for lunch as it was preparing for the New Year’s Eve dinner service. Luckily, we ran into Elis, our boisterous city tour guide, and she recommended Mistura which was around the corner.
There was a short line outside the restaurant, because it wasn’t yet open. Once the doors opened, they began seating people immediately. They asked us if we had a reservation which we did not, but they sat us anyways. Seeing the dining room quickly fill up, we ordered right away.
The fried plantain starter was crisp and lightly salted which somehow negated the sweetness.
The shrimp appetizer was served atop a cornbread unlike any I’ve ever tasted. It almost reminded me of a polenta cake.
The shrimp was nice, plump and smoky and the creamy tangy sauce had a bit of an earthy flavor from the chives and a bit of saltiness from stripes of bacon softened by the coconut cream.
The rice dish was phenomenal. The oyster sauce gave it a dark tint and a bit of saltiness and the mushrooms made it super creamy. The shrimp had parmesan sprinkled throughout. If there was a perfect dish, this would be it. The choreography of the service was unparalleled. There were two members of the staff who stood against the window and wall who were assigned the watch the tables and clear as necessary. Mistura was a phenomenal dining experience.
After lunch, we headed to our second and final massage at Uraku which once again was blissfully relaxing. Then we headed back to the hotel to get ready and went back out to the Old City for our evening’s festivities.
For our New Year’s Eve dinner, we opted to dine on the rooftop at Mar Y Zielo. The year prior, I had done some research on the most cost-effective dinners in town and the restaurant had received high marks for its value and quality. I had prepaid for the dinner so there was nothing to do but enjoy the food and the atmosphere.
The complimentary bread was nutty and the spread gave it a creamy texture.
The first starter was a nice crispy pop of something with a creamy hummus type side.
The second starter was akin to a chicken empanada which was tender and savory. The banana leaf rice dish was nice and savory and tasted like it was mixed with beans. I tasted a bit of beef once I delved more into it.
At one point, the chef of the evening who was flown in from Bogota came out to greet us which was a very pleasant surprise.
To top off the night, we were treated to a spectacular fireworks show at midnight with all the patrons ending up dancing around the restaurant in merriment. Not wanting to be up too late as our flight was scheduled for the next morning, we started heading out and noticed that the entire restaurant shared the same menu and that every table was fully. The merriment was definitely in full swing on the streets of the Old City as well. Restaurants had long tables in the middle of the road, people were dancing and partying on the streets, and it was such a festive vibe.
Looking back, Cartagena is probably one of my favorite cities. We thoroughly enjoyed learning about their history, seeing the sights and enjoying their exceptional culinary delights. However, I do recognize that Cartagena is not for everybody. There are definitely some unsavory characters and sketchy areas, but that can be said about many cosmopolitan cities. Cartagena just had an energy that can only be described as pulsating, spirited and strong willed. Looking forward to returning in the very near future!
Our first time visiting the beautiful island of Curacao was well over 15 years ago as a cruise port. I remember being mesmerized by the colorful buildings set in juxtaposition to the waterway. It was the first time I was exposed to the Dutch architecture and colorway and something about those buildings and their bright pastel colors just made me happy.
When the opportunity to return to the island presented itself, we immediately seized it. It was Christmas 2021, and we were on holiday at Sandals Antigua. It was our first Sandals experience, and they offered a substantial discount to book the next vacation while on-site. Sandals Royal Curacao had not yet opened and the cost was a fraction of what we had spent on the Antigua vacation so we placed a small deposit and planned our next adventure.
It wasn’t until October of 2022 that I started plotting our holiday vacation. I read on online that driving in Curacao was seamless. We didn’t need an international driver license, and everybody raved about Just Drive Curacao as the best car rental company on the island. I booked a car online and received a confirmation that payment would be due on arrival.
Upon arriving at the airport, we exited the terminal, veered right, walked until the sidewalk ended and crossed the street to the rental car shuttle pickup spot. After about a 10–15-minute wait, we were picked up by the shuttle, driven a few minutes away and dropped off in front of the office while our bags were placed in the trunk of our rental. The transaction was seamless. We headed into the office, signed a few forms, was advised which app to use for our navigation and off we went. It took a bit over an hour to get to the resort as it was rush-hour traffic, and the roads were quite narrow.
The Sandals Royal Curacao resort was ensconced in a secure secluded gated community. We were allowed to park for free in the parking lot to the right side of the resort’s main lobby. It took a few minutes for us to be attended to as several people were checking in at the same time. Once everything was squared away, we headed to the food trucks oceanside for some much-needed sustenance.
We ordered from all three trucks.
Kisha was the Asian fusion truck which offered bao, bowls and curries.
We selected the yakiniku beef which was savory but the meat was a bit tough.
The chicken bao was fluffy and the chicken was tender but the Asian flavor and seasonings were a bit off.
From La Palma, we ordered the patatas brava which were crispy and smoky, served with tangy aioli. We also ordered the gambas al ajillo.
The perfectly cooked shrimp had a bit of heat from the chili.
My personal favorite though was the steak I ordered from Toteki as it was lightly seasoned, tender and served with crispy fries.
There was a bar in the same section as the food trucks so we took it as a sign to order our first vacation drink.
After unpacking, settling in and getting a bit of a rest, we headed to Gatsu Gatsu, the Japanese sushi restaurant, for our first dinner. We started with a few appetizers.
The chicken karaage was lightly battered and given a bit more umph by the chili sauce.
The tempura was expertly fried with a crispy exterior retaining a moist interior.
We also ordered a ramen bowl which was served with a thinly sliced savory sliver of pork set in the creamy milky broth.
Next up was the spicy tuna hand roll which was quite traditionally prepared. The ahi albacore salad had a bit of pop as it was topped with masago eggs giving it a slightly salty bite and had a bit of silkiness from the sesame dressing. The salmon sashimi was a bit thicker than the norm but it was surprisingly tender due to the sushi chef’s expert knife skills. The seared tuna carpaccio was served with a bright pink middle and was extra spicy due to the wasabi but unfortunately, the texture wasn’t quite on point as the carpaccio was sliced too thick. Next up was the lobster roll which was densely packed with the various ingredients and served with a tangy sauce on top. We also ordered a salmon roll which was on par with the quality of the lobster. The creamy pepper jack roll which was unique and cheesier than the other two rolls though clearly not traditional Japanese fare. Of everything we sampled, the ramen, spicy tuna hand roll and salad were my favorites from our dinner.
On our first full day at the resort, we opted to have breakfast at Aolos, the beachside restaurant.
The quality of my breakfast steak was similar to the prior day’s meal from the food truck. I asked for cheese to be added to the side of eggs I ordered which gave it a creamier texture. The accompanying hash browns were served piping hot and crispy.
My husband ordered a shrimp, mushroom, spinach, pepper, pepper jack cheese omelet which was dense and packed with flavor.
We spent the morning checking out the manmade beach area. Some of the beach chairs were shielded from the sun by thatched huts.
The strip of sand also had kayaks, and there were a few round large mesh floaties in the middle of the water. The water was a bit chilly at first but with the hot sun, we acclimated shortly thereafter. The downside was the lack of clarity of the water so after a while we hopped onto a few of the mesh floaties and chatted with a few of the other guests.
For lunch, we opted to dine at The Strand which was located beachside of the resort.
We started off with a cobb salad which was served with fresh crisp lettuce, bacon bits, a sliced hard-boiled egg and lightly seasoned grilled chicken breast.
The appetizer of choice was the bittenballen which was quite unique and was similar to a hush puppy but had a creamy savory filling. Our server mentioned that it was a local favorite but sadly, it did not resonate with our taste buds.
The grilled fish was a thick fillet which was served with a cream sauce and capers. Oddly, the fish seemed a bit tough or perhaps not completely thawed out in the middle.
The jerk chicken was a decent portion and was as spicy as one would expect. The Strand was fine, but service was rather slow.
After the midday meal, we ventured into the gym for our daily workout. As the resort officially opened just six months prior, the equipment still looked new, except for one piece of equipment which seemed to be a bit sticky.
We started off with a short cardio workout on the side-by-side ellipticals and then did a full upper body set using machines and free weights.
After an hour, we headed back to our room to change for our favorite leisure activity at the resort: hanging out at the infinity pool.
That evening, as return customers, we were invited to a loyalty dinner which began with sunset cocktails and outdoor music as well as photo sessions. We were then escorted to one of the ballrooms where there was a presentation throughout the dinner applauding the various levels of loyalty. We were served from a prix fixe menu which seemed fine but nothing stood out as exemplary.
The starter carrot soup wouldn’t have been my first choice but it was quite creamy and sweet. The croutons added a bit of crunch.
My substitution request for the melon salad was just a regular salad.
The lobster was pretty good but the steak was an inferior cut of beef, tough and fatty with very little edible meat. The mashed potatoes were creamy and had a bit of sweetness from the carrot purée sauce.
The cheesecake on its own was phenomenal but the popcorn served alongside was odd and bitter. I took the meringue off of the dish as it didn’t seem like a good pairing for the dessert. The dark chocolate though was quite good.
Because we didn’t feel we experienced enough umami, we opted for a second dinner at Gatsu. We ordered a solid favorite, the shrimp tempura, as well as the savory shrimp wonton soup and the prior night’s spicy tuna hand roll as well as the crisp shrimp tempura hand roll, the seared tuna roll and salmon lover roll. All were pretty good though I think the hand rolls were superior.
New to us and not available the night before was the chicken and beef ishiyaki. Both were solid and required some self-grilling.
My husband ended the meal with 3 sampler mochis which he enjoyed.
The next morning we had our first breakfast at Pietra and sampled from their breakfast buffet and their made-to-order omelet station. The food was solid fare but the best part was the orange juice machine by the beverage stand and being able to watch the juice squeezed from the oranges and poured into your glass.
After breakfast, we headed out for our first self-guided island exploration. It took just under half an hour for us to drive to Mambo Beach from Sandals which was a fairly easy drive with very little traffic at that early hour. Parking was plentiful, and the area was easy to navigate. We chose the beachfront restaurant, Riley for its proximity from the walkway and the restroom by the main entrance as well as for its well- stocked bar and its well-equipped beach which had thatched huts shielding the beach chairs.
We paid $5 per chair and $3.50 each for admittance to the beach. We were greeted by a lovely gentleman who would be our server during our stay.
Rider served us our burger with fries and chicken quesadilla. The pigeons hovered aggressively and unsuccessfully made attempts to hop onto our beach chairs to have a few nibbles of our meals.
The water was quite chilly upon entering but became refreshing as the day wore on. Overall, Mambo was a winner, and we would definitely recommend a trek to this beachside community.
We returned to the resort to unwind and ready ourselves for dinner at Pietra.
Our beef lasagne was perfectly cooked, savory and herbaceous with a creamy tomato base.
The chicken parmesan had an abundant amount of spaghetti with crispy moist chicken which was breaded heavily like a fried chicken breast. The tomato sauce was plentiful and added a nice contrast.
After dinner, we caught the tail end of the beach show which was a tribute to the 80s.
There was a Michael Jackson stage performance and then there was a piano sing-along in the main bar followed by shots with new friends.
At around 10:30 p.m. we ordered a pizza from Pietra which was right below the main bar and had it as a late-night snack, soaking up all the alcohol we had ingested.
The next morning, for breakfast, we once again dined at the breakfast buffet at Pietra after which we took a quick morning nap before heading to the gym for our daily workout.
Then we headed back to Pietra for lunch. The order took close to 40 minutes to arrive and they all came at the same time.
The mahi mahi was a thick filet, perfectly cooked with fries crispy.
The shrimp Caesar had a lot of Parmesan cheese sprinkles throughout but not heavily dressed, and the shrimp was cooked just long enough that it wasn’t transparent.
The cheese ravioli was the standout with a super creamy gooey ricotta center.
After our lunch, we readied ourselves for our late afternoon adventure in town.
I had previously booked a free walking tour of Punda Vibes which only occurred in the late afternoon/evening on Thursdays in the center of town. We met our guide, Gabriel, who gave us a very detailed history of the background of the island.
He mentioned that the island was embroiled in the battle for wealth and dominance in the English, Dutch and French wars. The other side of the waterway had slaves from Venezuela, St. Maarten and Africa. The Punda Vibes side housed the Governor, delineating a socioeconomic divide in the island’s early history. The rule of the land in olden times was each married couple was obligated to have 2 boys and 2 girls at a minimum. Gabriel also shared that the Jewish side of that part of town had different and stricter laws which resulted in some instances sentencing offenders to two years in prison. There once was a prison which in current day is now a bank. Though Curacao no longer has a prison, if one commits a crime in present day, that person is forced to get a tattoo to let others know that he/she has committed an offense akin to the “Scarlett Letter.” The local language on the island in present day is a combination of all the languages: Dutch, English, Portuguese, Spanish.
The island’s current doctors are either Dutch or Colombian and speak Latin. Nurses also have to speak and understand Latin and be able to translate the doctor’s orders or advice to the patient’s dialect. After our tour, we thanked Gabriel for the education and headed back to the resort.
We chose Zuka for dinner that Thursday evening.
The tortilla soup had a thick tomato base with a bit of cheese.
Our starter quesadilla had a jalapeño flavor but fortunately wasn’t overly spicy.
The ceviche was my favorite as it was light, fresh and citrusy. Our entrees arrived shortly thereafter.
On my dish, the pork skin was crispy and both the pork meat and short rib were tender.
My husband’s chicken entrée was sumptuous and moist with tomato and celery flavorings.
Our third shared entrée, the red snapper was a thick cut, served crispy on the outside but had a flaky interior. Its chorizo accompaniment was tasty as well.
The first dessert was like pillows of heaven with a tart aftertaste. It was called pastelists de guayaba.
The second dessert, the apple fig colada, was refreshing and served as a palate cleanser of sorts.
Our third dessert, the tres leches had a light texture and was sprinkled with coconut shreds.
The next day, Friday, we headed out for our longest road trip in Curacao to the north west section.
First, after an hour on the road, we parked our car on the side of the road and crossed the narrow street to check out the local flamingos. We were going to check out the turtles on the other side of the island but as it turns out, the road was closed so we headed to our third destination, Grote Knip. We had no issues finding our way, thanks to our local navigation app.
There was plenty of parking and once we were at the top of the hill, we looked down and could see the magnificent almost fluorescent blue waters below us. I had never seen that deep of a turquoise color before and collectively, we have been to many Caribbean, south Pacific and Asian beaches. It literally was the color of a blue curacao drink.
We made our way down to the beach and paid the fee for the beach chairs and umbrella.
Once we were settled, I headed up to the snack bar up the hill.
I ordered a double burger which honestly tasted like fake meat.
Fortunately, I had selected the chicken plate with salad for my husband which was a much better selection.
It was incredibly relaxing being there and in hindsight, we should have brought our snorkel gear or rented a pair because that was an excellent location for exploring the underwater sights. After about an hour or so, I noticed that the dark, ominous clouds headed in our direction and decided to head back to the resort. Just as we reached the car, the sky opened up and started to pour. As with all tropical destinations, the rain was short lived and dissipated as we were leaving.
After some R&R at the resort, we headed to Butch’s for dinner.
The bacon on my dish was incredibly tender and savory, no knife needed, and had the perfect melding of flavors and texture. The warm salad served alongside was a pretend healthy accompaniment as the volume of bacon far outweighed any healthy aspirations.
The shrimp appetizer was perfectly cooked and garlicky.
The crabcake, as my husband pointed out, had an excessive amount of breading but the crab meat portion was quite good.
The filet was tender, juicy and perfectly cooked at medium and the lobster was unbelievably tender and moist.
The truffle fries were spectacularly crispy, and the brussels sprouts were tender.
The wrapped chicken breast was surprisingly fully cooked and moist.
The mushroom tasted earthy, juicy and savory, and the mashed potatoes which we quickly devoured and forgot to capture on camera were incredibly creamy and buttery.
The chocolate sin cake had three layers: the top was a light mousse, the middle was a slightly bitter dense section and the bottom was a crispy crust. The vanilla ice cream which accompanied it had a nearly spongy texture.
Saturday morning we headed to Willemsted for our second walking tour which coincidentally was once again with our prior guide, Gabriel.
He shared a few fun facts about that side of the island. 1) The right side of the plaza was Italy. The left side was deemed as Paris. 2) Sushi translated means trash or poop. 3) Laraja tree is where blue Curacao comes from. 4) On Otrabande, when the Dutch bought half of Punda, the Jewish people moved across the waterway and established their businesses on the other side where they sold their wares for a fraction to sell to the slaves who lived on that side of the island.
To save on daily expenses, the Jewish business owners lived above their businesses.
Near the end of the tour, we observed the opening and closing of the bridge and watched as some people foolishly tried to run across to make it to the other side which was amusing and infuriating at the same time.
A bit tired and hungry, we opted to stay for a bite at La Boheme and invited our guide to join us for lunch.
The food was quite good but during lunch, we experienced another downpour and had to switch to a more shielded table as we were seated outside, exposed to the elements. Again, it didn’t last very long and as soon as it stopped raining, the sun came out in full force.
That night, which was Christmas Eve, we had a 7 p.m. reservation for dinner at Vincent. Upon arriving, we knew that we’d be on the slow roll as we arrived at 7:10 p.m., 10 minutes late for our reservation, and nobody came to greet us til 7:17. By 7:58 p.m., our orders had not been taken.
Crystal, the restaurant’s bartender, had served us 2 vodka martinis at that point as a pre-apology. I walked across to complain at Club Sandals that at 7:58 p.m. we hadn’t been greeted by our server or had our orders taken let alone received bread service which eventually arrived at 8:14 p.m., almost an hour after being seated. At some point during my walks to Club Sandals, I stopped a server who immediately took our order. It was as if the servers didn’t know which tables were theirs or were advised by the hostess that their section had been seated.
Starters arrived at 8:19 pm.
The mushroom bisque was quite good and savory.
The beef bresaola was the proper texture and a bit salty.
The petite iceberg was crisp and fresh, served with a side of tasty bacon.
By 8:51 p.m., no entrees had arrived. Nearly 2 hours after being seated, at 9 p.m., our main dishes were served.
My sole meuniere was good, flaky, lightly breaded, and fries were perfectly crispy. The sprinkling of mini shrimp atop were nice and plump.
My husband’s steak was tender and juicy and the mashed potatoes were incredibly creamy.
Liza, a manager or supervisor, came over at 9:10 p.m. and by that point, I was screaming at how terrible the service was, and she was pleading with me to keep the voice down. I told her to talk to the lobby of people waiting as I let them know they should just leave or expect to eat by midnight, and I pointed out that she didn’t stop by earlier when she spoke with the diners seated at the tables alongside ours when she initially entered the premises and that perhaps if somebody had made a scene earlier, things wouldn’t have deteriorated as they had. I asked why nobody had communicated to the guests that it would be a 3 hour wait, that perhaps they overbooked the restaurant, or maybe the menu was too ambitious and couldn’t be served during a normal dinner service. Were they short staffed? If so, they should communicate and let guests know that perhaps they should dine elsewhere. As it was, we were missing the 9 p.m. show. She advised me that the manager would be speaking with us during breakfast service and asked for our room number and when we would be dining at Butch’s in the morning.
Dessert arrived at 9:35 pm. The marshmallow was quite chewy, as it should be. The chocolate pot de creme had a bit of liquor aftertaste.
The profiterole was fine but nothing to write home about.
On our last full day at the resort, Christmas Day, we headed to Butch’s, where we previously had our fantastic steakhouse dinner. The coffee at Butch’s is different from the other breakfast establishments on the resort. The orange juice was refreshing though it’s not freshly squeezed like at Pietra. Troy’s parfait was beautifully presented and his omelet was cooked perfectly. My breakfast hash was quite tasty and was a fairly generous portion. Troy finished off with a yummy apple short stack Paula was our server and she was beyond lovely. To close the loop from the night prior, no manager arrived to discuss our dinner at Vincent.
For lunch, we ate at Pietra. The tomato soup was piping hot and the crispy croutons were a nice accompaniment. My cheeseburger was perfectly cooked with extra crispy bacon. Troy’s cobb salad had a perfect ratio of bacon, tomato, chicken, egg and lettuce. His mac n cheese was stellar and had a bit of bite from the red bell pepper. The chocolate cake was light and airy. The fruit tarte was creamy with shredded coconut sprinkles.
For our pre-dinner snack, we headed back to where we started our culinary journey: the food trucks. From the Spanish tapa truck emerged a paella which tasted like it was cooked in chicken broth with the shrimp adding a bit of texture and protein. From Toteki, we ordered a polenta cake was crisp and fish had a tomato and bell pepper flavor.
On our last night, we once again dined at Pietra. The spaghetti and meatballs were savory. The alfredo was very creamy and eggy. Our salmon was moist, tender and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper.
In sum, Sandals Royal Curacao is my favorite of all-inclusive resorts we have ever visited.
Sandals in general is the top tier of all similar resorts but our experience in Curacao, except for one unfortunate dinner experience at Vincent and few delays at other dining venues, was filled with exceptionally attentive, courteous and friendly interactions with the staff. The positivity in Curacao alone elevated our stay. It made for a very merry Christmas!
Here’s my secret for finding the new restaurant eats: I subscribe to Eater and Infatuation and I regularly receive emails of openings and reviews. However, and no offense to my fellow foodies, but I have a different standard, and I don’t always agree with their recos. On the Xuntos front, I’m 100% “aligned” which by the way is ad agency/marketing speak, now that I’m professionally back in that sphere.
Xuntos is located in Downtown Santa Monica which, in my teens and 20s, was one of my favorite hangouts. Now part of the area has been surrendered to and relegated to the homeless encampments while the oceanside still caters to the elite. Walking to Xuntos with my Lady Dior from the public parking garage on 4th made me reevaluate my luxury bag choice for the night. However, upon arriving at the restaurant, I was very pleasantly surprised at the upscale environment.
My husband was already seated as I dropped him off to locate parking.
When I arrived, my husband’s wine choice for me was promptly served. It was their driest white wine offering which had a bit of zest and grapefruit tartness.
The complimentary olive starter served with the drinks had a bit of kick with a peppercini flavor.
We started off with the ham and grilled cheese sandwich. The “bikini jamon” was phenomenal! Cheesy, gooey, slightly sweet, with shaved sweet slices of jamon in the center. We ended up ordering two because it was that good!
Next up was the gazpacho which was delicious, refreshing, creamy, tart, a bit sour with hints of the freshness of cucumber, truly unique and perfect for a hot summer day.
Our first main dish was the garlic shrimp which was beautifully presented, steaming hot with sliced baguette on the side. The shrimp had a bit of heat and the oil from the pan served as a nice dipping sauce for the bread. The shrimp was small but plump and tender.
Next up was the squid ink pasta which was creamy, tart from the lemon juice and tomato purée.
The patatas bravas were served piping hot, crispy with a drizzle of sour cream, chives and tomato purée.
The finale was the steak which was lightly salted, tender and juicy, with a bit of chimichurri herbs, caper sauce and rock salt on top.
All the menu items from start to finish were exceptional. It’s been a while since all the notes, from the service to the quality of the food, hit all the right marks. As my childhood piano teacher would say after an excellent performance, three gold stars to Xuntos!
The Reunion at Neuehouse looked and felt like a little jewel box in the midst of the pseudo gentrified, partial homeless encampment area known as Venice Beach. Its location was one of the more polished areas of town, and upon arrival, we asked the doorman where to park and he pointed to the parking lot halfway down the block to the left. I honestly can’t recall if the parking was $20 or $40 as we were running late, and I couldn’t be bothered to look for a “safe” free or inexpensive lot which inevitably would have led to being subjected to the skunk smell of pot or the putrid smell of urine in some seedy alleyway of the city.
Once we entered the building, it felt like we had been transported to a lavish resort in the Mediterranean. Every individual we spoke with was polished and well-mannered. That’s when I remembered the Neuehouse was first and foremost a members only social club, and it definitely showed in the service we received. Even the restroom attendant was beyond apologetic for having to service the restroom while patrons were using the facilities. We were directed to check in with the front desk who escorted us to our outdoor patio table.
We were quite pleased with the clientele as everybody looked established and refined albeit dressed in California casual chic attire. The patio was covered and had heat lamps so we were shielded from the elements which was quite lovely and made for a very comfortable dining experience.
Our server greeted us and took our drink orders which frankly took a bit longer to receive than one would have anticipated and on arrival of my martini, I was disappointed at the diminutive portion I was served, akin to all my drinks in London or in Utah, though I’ve never been to the latter.
Fortunately, the rest of the meal was quite delightful.
The bread basket had an array of various bread options, from a crispy breadstick, pre-buttered and toasted sourdough slices and doughy warm focaccia.
We ordered the organic arugula salad which had a tart, lemony, cheesy layer which balanced out the arugula’s natural bitterness.
The chicken parmesan was served piping hot, lightly breaded with traditional breadcrumbs under a thin layer of tomato based sauce and melted cheese.
Our mushroom pasta was quite savory, earthy with a hint of worcestershire sauce mixed in and sprinkled with cheese.
The potatoes were crisp and cheesy, with a hint of smoke.
Overall, we enjoyed our evening at The Reunion and we would happily return and recommend it to friends. It’s a nice upscale pocket in the heart of an otherwise unsavory part of town.
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