When I worked at Trailer Park, the company participated in a subsidized lunch program for its employees with Eat Club. When Phorage was an option, I quickly and eagerly placed my lunch order and waited with great anticipation until the day arrived when I would finally be able to taste the tasty morsels that came in the special Eat Club package with my name on it.
It’s been a few years since my time at Trailer Park and since my last in-person meal at Phorage. As I’m currently on a Vietnamese bun kick due to our upcoming trip to Vietnam, I decided to place an order for lunch pickup.
I’m sad to say that the flavor of the food has declined since my last visit. I ordered the grilled chicken with imperial roll and vermicelli noodles. I can understand that the egg roll would have lost its crispy texture during the car ride back to work. However, the flavor of the chicken was disappointedly lackluster. From what I recall, a prior iteration of this dish had a citrusy, lemongrass flavor marinaded into the chicken. That’s what gave it a more authentic Vietnamese flavor. Now it’s just grilled chicken on a bed of vermicelli noodles, shredded carrots, lettuce and bean sprouts with a side of very mild sweet & sour sauce sprinkled with a dash of fish sauce.
What I always fear with Asian restaurants is how the quality and flavor of their food diminish and decline over time, as a cost saving measure or perhaps under pressure to Americanize their dishes. I haven’t followed Phorage so I don’t know if they have a different chef or are under new management.
I was so hopeful that it would be my go-to for my Vietnamese fix on the Westside but alas, so far, Saigon Dish in Lawndale has checked off most of the boxes on what an authentic bun ga nuong should taste like. Guess a trek to South Bay is still closer and cheaper than a trip to Vietnam.
Phorage
3300 Overland Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90034
http://phoragela.com/
People in the know are aware that true and authentic Asian food in Los Angeles can only be found primarily in San Gabriel Valley as most new immigrants settle in the SGV and open up shop in close proximity to their homes. Newport Seafood embodies the melting pot of SGV in its menu which incorporates Chinese, Cambodian, Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. Most of the clientele is of Asian descent and the many Asian dialects spoken within the restaurant are positive signs of a legitimate and successful Asian establishment.
Eight of us met up for this venture for what has now become our twice a year pilgrimage from the Westside. It takes anywhere from 30-65 minutes to drive to the restaurant so we try to plan our schedules sometimes a month or two ahead of time to ensure that a large enough group will be able to make the trek.
Newport Seafood should only be visited by those who truly love and appreciate the Asian culture, its culinary techniques as well as the flavors and traditions of Asian cuisine at its best. Those who mistake cheese for tofu or or those who are unaware that steamed rice is served in the red and black covered bowls should not bother visiting Newport Seafood as it is not for novices with inexperienced and unsophisticated palates. Friends who truly recognize and respect the time, effort and quality of the cooking technique and melding of flavors are the ones privileged enough to be invited to this sensational feast.
As usual, we began with the offerings from the cart.
The seaweed salad in sesame oil is always a refreshing start to the decadent meal. The slightly spiced sliced cucumber adds a bit of heat to the subtlety of the seaweed. Combined it checked off the salad component of the meal.
First to arrive was the crab and asparagus soup which had a slightly thick soy sauce broth with chunks of crab and white asparagus. It was hot, savory and delicious. The flavors were reminiscent of the traditional Chinese egg drop soup with a nod to Vietnam in the addition of the crab and white asparagus creating subtle layers of flavor.
The first entree served was the star of the dinner, the massive plate with the 6 lb lobster sitting atop a bed of egg noodles. The sheer grandness of the dish automatically set the stage for a celebratory meal. The sea of hands and fingers reaching for its claws and shells began at a slow and then increased to a rapid pace. There was no easy or dainty way to eat the lobster except to use fingers to pry off the piping hot, delicious, succulent meat from the shell. With the noodles resting underneath the lobster, the juices from the lobster were interwoven in between the strands which enhanced its umami flavor. Our server mentioned that they only use female lobsters as was evidenced by the roe sitting on the side of the platter. It had a dense texture with a mild but slightly bitter flavor though admittedly, it’s definitely an acquired taste.
We also ordered the fish with basil which was lightly breaded and subtly salted. It was a simple and light dish but had a great deal of depth with the basil adding a layer of slightly sweet and peppery flavor.
Next to arrive was the French Vietnamese fusion dish, the beef loc lac, which was amazingly tender and moist. The cook who prepared this dish wisely sliced the beef against the grain and cut them into small bite size pieces allowing the juiciness of the meat and the thick soy sauce gravy to fuse and get absorbed within each crevice of the meat.
The walnut shrimp was prepared similarly to the fish but was slightly sweeter and was prepared without a heavy sauce allowing the plump, moist shrimp to shine on its own.
Last to arrive was the yang chow fried rice which had petite pieces of BBQ pork, fried eggs and mixed vegetables. The rice was fluffy, not oily, perfectly cooked and was a very generous serving.
In the large expanse of Los Angeles and all the restaurant options it has to offer, Newport Seafood is one of the most delicious budget friendly options for large group dining. There is always a moment of silence when the food arrives as we sample and savor each sumptuous bite. All conversations cease, and we each silently enjoy each dish, appreciating and attempting to understand the complexities of the flavors. As we move on to each course and immerse ourselves in our own nirvana, we are whisked on a journey across Asia, with spices, flavors and techniques fusing each region’s history and traditions onto our plates.
Newport Seafood has masterfully created a diverse and expansive dining experience that cannot be replicated and stands head and shoulders above all Asian restaurants for its culinary expertise of southeast Asian cuisine. It is always an exceptional experience and should definitely not be missed by Asian foodie aficionados.
Newport Seafood
518 Las Tunas
San Gabriel, CA
Chiang Mai is known for its abundance of night markets throughout the city. It doesn’t take much effort to find one each night of the week.
There are also plenty of street vendors on the way to the actual markets so supply most definitely outweighs demand. However, unlike in other countries where vendors aggressively try to sell you their goods or wares, the vendors wait until they are approached by a potential buyer expressing his/her interest and even then, the vendors have a tendency to take a more laid back approach.
On our first full day in Chiang Mai, we walked 10 minutes north from our AirBnb to Anusarn Market which is best known for its abundant food options.
We opted for a seafood restaurant based on several reviews on TripAdvisor but unfortunately it was fairly mediocre and frankly forgettable.
However, we had a front row seat to the dancers of the Chiang Mai Cabaret soliciting customers. My husband decided to take a photo with them which resulted in a few good laughs.
After dinner, we walked around and saw a sign for the fish spa. At 120 baht it seemed like a very cheap thrill so we opted to try it. Not surprisingly, it was definitely memorable and noteworthy. It seemed hilariously ticklish and odd at first. After a while, we got used to the rhythmic nipping around our feet. The best part were the people we met who came by to chat with us. Having fish eating your dead skin was definitely a great conversation starter. We met an Irishman with whom we shared the story of my husband’s mistaken belief that he was of Sicilian descent only to discover from 23andMe that he was predominantly of British Irish descent. Our Irish companion on realizing he met a fellow countryman shared a few tales about the Motherland to incentivize him to come visit.
We ended our evening by stopping off to get my husband’s favorite dessert: mango sticky rice.
The next day, we opted to visit the famous Saturday Night Market on Wua Lai Road. It is literally one road with a few off-shoots for food vendors. We took a Grab, which is the equivalent of an Uber or Lyft, and were dropped off at one end of the market. There were some similar wares that we had seen the night before but a handful of a few unique ones. The street was busy but not oppressively packed.
We headed to the first food court and ordered a small bowl of the famous Khao Soi for 50 baht,
grilled fish for 200 baht
and a plate of pad Thai for 40 baht.
We ate our dinner while listening to a guitarist strum some tunes.
After listening to a few more melodic songs, we moved on and walked through the rest of the market.
We fell upon another more diverse food court.
There were 2 sushi roll stalls but one in particular was incredibly crowded as it was selling each piece for 10 baht. I’m not quite sure what the quality and freshness of the rolls since it was oppressively humid and it hardly seemed appropriate to have raw fish exposed to the elements. However, the excitement and intensity of the customers was palpable as they aggressively barked out their orders at a rapid pace and fevered pitch.
Moving on, we looked at the other food options and when we turned the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac of stalls, we couldn’t help but notice the shawarma stand. We ordered a quesadilla from the woman who was teaching her son how to prepare the dish. It was interesting to observe that the teen was being groomed to help or possibly take over the business. She explained each step, how to carve the meat, how much to place on the tortilla, how much cheese to add and how long to cook on each side. Hopefully, he took mental notes as the quesadilla was perfectly crisp on the outside and moist and gooey on the inside.
After our second dinner, we meandered to the other end of the market and opted to take a Tuk Tuk back to Anusarn to check out the Boy Blues Club.
It was located on the second floor above the market offering a nice view and a breeze to boot. The band was pretty good but the alcohol selection was lacking. Still it was a nice chill spot to hang out, relax and listen to some solid tunes.
The next day, we went to the famous Sunday Night Market. To say that market was overwhelming would be an understatement. It was massive with various offshoots on to other streets.
What is interesting about the Sunday market was it actually had some unique vendors, with original artwork, ornate and exquisite inexpensive bookmarks and cards. I enjoyed seeing what was available but one could seriously spend 6 hours before seeing everything that was available. We didn’t stay long as it looked like rain and the aisles were filling up with people, making the browsing and sightseeing less enjoyable by the minute so we retreated and headed back to our humble abode.
Chiang Mai Night Markets provide a place where one could definitely find and haggle for unique souvenirs to remind one of their time in Chiang Mai.
They’re also great for sampling local food at a relatively low price point.
For us, night markets are another entry point into the mindset of the people and what they found to be of value enough to sell to locals and tourists alike.
I had 3 other cooking schoolmates with me on the 4th day so we started our day at the market. After the introduction to some of the herbs and ingredients our class was going to be using, we ventured off in different directions.
I had tried the sai ua the day prior but I had a hankering for it again today. I first learned about it on Mark Wiens’ episode in Chiang Mai and how relatives in Bangkok considered it rude and disrespectful not to return with the sausage as a gift from the visit up north. Sai ua has a bit of hit with a subtle lemongrass aftertaste. If I lived in Chiang Mai, it would definitely be a daily breakfast treat with eggs and rice.
Another treat caught my eye on this visit to the market. My curiosity was piqued by several YouTube episodes in Chiang Mai. There’s a dessert that has a coconut custardy base with either green onion, cheese or pumpkin. I tried the first and latter at the market, courtesy of our instructor Pon who is friends with the owner of the stand.
He also had us sample what I will call a coconut burrito which was basically a gooey pancake exterior with coconut inside.
After our market visit, we were whisked off to the school where we prepared the following:
Phad Siewe – Fried Big Noodles with Sweet Soy Sauce
Hope Neung Plaa – Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves
Gaeng Gari Gai – Yellow Curry with Chicken
Gai Phad Med Mamuang – Chicken with Cashew Nuts
Plan Goong – Spicy Prawn Salad North Eastern Style
Kluay Buad Chee – Bananas in Coconut Milk
Pon gave the class a few pointers. To loosen up the thick noodles, pour a few tablespoons of oyster sauce with the noodles and manually separate them. With the oil in the wok cooking at high heat, there are only certain types of oils which should be used for Thai cooking. Vegetable, sunflower and peanut oil would suffice.
Also, because of the hot oil, unlike in Italian or even in Chinese cooking where the garlic is the first ingredient in the pan, the meat, be it pork, chicken, beef, shrimp or fish is first dropped into the wok and the garlic placed in shortly thereafter to prevent the burning of the garlic.
I can’t believe that tomorrow will be my last day but this week has definitely been enlightening and enriching. Looking forward to a strong finish!!
Thai Cookery School
Much like Day 1, Day 3 started with a market tour. This time it was with Ning. She took us to the stalls that sold some of the ingredients we would later use in class. After our brief visit, we headed to the school and started on our dishes.
Our menu was as follows:
Tom Kha Gai – chicken in coconut milk soup
Raad Nah Muu – fried big noodles with thick sauce and pork
Gaeng Phed Play – red curry with fish
Phad Hed Ruam Khao Pod Om – fried mixed mushrooms with baby corn
Som Tam – papaya salad
Khanom Kluay – steamed banana cake
Ning taught us to taste and either add sugar or soy sauce to moderate the saltiness or heat of each dish. The best technique that I learned from her was to cook the wide flat noodles in a cold wok with the oil and flatten/fry them like a pancake to give them a smoky texture. Though everything was delicious as always, of today’s menu, I give a two thumbs up to the steamed banana cake. Not being much of a desert person, I appreciated that this was not overly sweet and beautifully presented.
After lunch, we walked around the property which I somehow had not yet done in the past few days.
The grounds are quite expansive and we found out from Ning that some of the herbs and fruit we used are grown on-site.
I once again walked away with leftovers and am looking forward to continuing to learn more about the flavor pairings that make Thai cuisine as unique as it is.
Thai Cookery School
Day 2 brought an unexpected surprise when I arrived at the school.
I was the only student for the entire day which was a complete departure from my first day where there were 30 Australian tweens and teens in addition to our adult group of 6.
Since I was working one-on-one with Pon, I had the benefit of getting personal feedback on my culinary technique and flavoring and texture of each dish.
Our first course of the day was the Panaeng Muu which was red curry with pork.
It included the use of a mortal and pestle to pound down the spices and peppers into a puréed paste before adding the red curry and pork into the wok.
Next on the list was the Plaa Nin Laad Prik Bai Horapa or fried whole fish with chili and basil. The scariest part of this course wasn’t the whole raw fish sitting in the bowl. It was frying the whole thing in a wok full of oil.
Pon taught me to put salt at the bottom of the cooking oil in the wok rather than adding salt to the fish before frying it.
There we’re minimal ingredients to add to the top of the dish giving it just a bit more flavor.
The third course was the Gaeng Hanglay Gai or Chiang Mai chicken with curry. This was by far my favorite dish because the smell and flavor was reminiscent of chicken tikka masala and Thai curry combined.
He taught me the secret technique of placing the seasoned chicken in a cold wok pan and stirring around in the oil for a few minutes coating all sides before turning on the heat in order to prevent the oil from rising to the top and the dish becoming overly greasy.
For the fourth dish, Prad Prio Wan Phak aka sweet and sour stir fry vegetables, I got additional practice on my chopping and cutting skills and was taught how to make heart shaped carrots. Pon explained that the fruits and vegetables had to be cooked last in order for them to remain crisp.
The fifth dish, Yam Wun Sen or spicy glass noodle salad, hardly took any time at all to make. The noodles cook literally in 5 seconds and what takes the most time is cooking up the pork and cutting up the accoutrements.
The dessert dish was the easiest to prepare provided the rice has been previously cooked. The Khao Neow Dam Piak was a black sticky rice pudding which had 3 ingredients and was unbelievably simple and delicious.
We sped through the 6 courses, with me sitting down and finishing my plate of the panaeng curry with pork served with steamed rice. With the rest of the dishes, I had one or two sample bites and just powered through, saving all of the food for my to-go. No need to go out for dinner tonight as essentially Pon and I had prepared a meal for 3 people so I was quite beside myself at this fortuitous chain of events.
What I learned during the first two days is that cooking Thai food doesn’t have to be complicated or a lengthy ordeal. Some of my favorite dishes were so incredibly easy and quick to make.
Tomorrow will sadly not be a private but I’m looking forward to practicing and learning more culinary techniques and shortcuts that I can incorporate in my day-to-day cooking back home. Ready for Day 3!
Thai Cookery School
A week ago to the day was the first time we realized that Ayara Thai had reopened at its original location. Our only prior experience with the restaurant was at its pop-up which was located on the opposite side of the parking lot, on the east side of Sepulveda.
Looking for a nice but casual dinner out at the end of a very long workweek, I happily made our reservation for 7:30 p.m. We arrived on time but the restaurant does not have an on-staff host/hostess so after 9 minutes of waiting, I grabbed ahold of a waiter who immediately seated us window side at a four top.
Once our waitress had made contact with us and we ordered our food and drinks, everything came out quickly and seamlessly. First out was the chicken pad see ew which had a mild subtle soy flavor encompassing its al dente flat rice noodles. Then came the dungeness crab fried rice which had the opposite texture. It was light and fluffy but savory.
Then came the seasonal spinach and asparagus dish, the spicy basil with ground chicken and fried egg wok entree and the chicken tom kha coconut soup. Of the latter offerings, the vegetable dish was the weakest and didn’t really hold its own compared to the heat of the chicken basil dish and the slightly sour, savory complex flavoring of the tom kha soup which was probably the winner of the dinner entrees. Tied in second place were the rice, noodles and ground chicken. However, the icing on the cake or on the sticky rice was the very thick, very coconuty sauce drenched on the dessert dish sitting alongside fresh slices of mangoes. That was truly magical and should definitely be enjoyed over and over.
Ayara Thai is that sweet neighborhood gem that only those in the know are aware of and hope remains a secret. Although at first glance, it seems like a small restaurant, it actually 3 separate sections so it can accommodate many more who want to enjoy its many delicious complex offerings. We will be back for sure!
Ayara Thai
6245 W. 87th Place
Los Angeles, CA 90044
I’ve been wanting to try out Ramen Joint for quite some time. It’s not too far from home, the prices are reasonable and it’s casual. With me suffering from a cold for the past 3 months and with my husband finally succumbing to the vicious cold and flu season, I chose tonight to finally check out this hidden gem. It’s not easy to find as it’s off of Truxton in a small street in a Westchester strip mall area. There’s plenty of parking in the lot close by so that’s not an issue.
The restaurant is quite small with a 6 top, a 4 top, around 4 deuces and a wraparound counter seating which can seat about 16 people. However, thanks to the handy Yelp app, one can be added to the waitlist prior to arrival which is what we utilized, minimizing our on-site wait time. When we arrived, 2 parties of 2 were ahead of us. We likely waited about 10-15 minutes and once seated, we ordered and the food came out fast and furious.
The first items which to be served were the steaming hot edamame and the very tasty seaweed salad.
Next up were the 4 shrimp spring rolls which had a light and crispy wrapper accompanied with a tasty spicy mayo and the chicken karaage which were thick chunks of chicken with a somewhat crispy batter and a savory garlic aioli.
The main event of this dinner were the shoyu tonkotsu and shoyu chicken ramen entrees which were both ordered with a seasoned soft boiled egg and crispy garlic chips. My tonkotsu had an array of ingredients but was light on the tasty and savory broth. My husband’s spicy chicken ramen had quite a bit of noodles and spinach but was sparse on the chicken.
Our total bill was around $46 so with tip, it was $28 per person and I still have half of my ramen and half of the chicken leftover. For those who have had ramen in Tokyo as we have of late, I should warn you that this is not that. Nothing can compare to the technique utilized by the Japanese in preparing their broth and the quality of their noodles. However, considering the efficiency and effectiveness of the Yelp waitlist, the super attentive service combined with the fast turnaround of the food and the reasonable prices, The Ramen Joint will definitely be on our shortlist of favorite local haunts in the days, weeks, months and years to come.
The Ramen Joint
6220 W. 87th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90045
http://www.theramenjoint.com/menu
https://www.fiftyonekitchen.com
Grace Gambin
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