Day 2 started out with a hunt for breakfast. We wandered the streets looking at our options. There was a restaurant next door but it was dark with one guy sitting inside smoking, and it looked a bit sketchy. We saw two ladies across the street setting up a beef pho stall which I’m sure would have been lovely but we were looking for comforts of home.

We found it at the Ann Hanoi Hotel, diagonal from our AirBnb. They had a beautiful breakfast buffet with a made-to-order omelet stand. It was about $15 per person, but we definitely got our money’s worth. Even though it may seem like a splurge by Vietnam’s standards, it was definitely a great way to start the day. They opened at 6:30 a.m. and had a very attentive and gracious staff.

Breakfast was followed by an all day AirBnb tour to the Hanoi’s top landmarks. We learned so much about the city and its history and have a much better understanding of the Vietnamese people as a result.

We started off at the Tran Quoc Pagoda. Our guide, Michael, mentioned that over 70% of Vietnamese people weren’t affiliated with any particular religion but most followed the guidelines of Buddhism, believed in reincarnation and the laws of karma. This was evidenced by all the offerings placed on the altars and the sprinkling of people who came by to worship.

Then we headed off to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. That was definitely a unique experience. It was the first time we understood and realized we were in a socialist country. We weren’t allowed to bring large bags, food or water, and cell phones and cameras were not permitted to be used while inside the building. It had not dawned on us just how sacred Ho Chi Minh was and still is to the Vietnamese people. The property was heavily guarded and all visitors had to remain orderly and in their single file lines. There was complete silence as we entered the building and walked around Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body at his final resting place. Michael had shared Ho Chi Minh‘s story about his humble roots and his meteoric rise to political power. Most attribute the unification of the Vietnamese people to Ho Chi Minh which explained why decades after his death, he is still revered and admired.

After a brief stop to a lacquer shop to learn about the process and entice us to buy their wares, we visited the Museum of Ethnology, learning a bit about the 54 different cultures that comprise the Vietnamese people. There appeared to be a cross mingling of Chinese, Malaysian and Filipino people along with the indigenous people of the lands and as such, the language and traditions blended over the centuries. It was another reminder that Vietnam, just like many countries in the world, is a melting pot.

Next up was lunch at a local restaurant. We had several delicious courses, starting with a bowl of soup, salad, fish, chicken and vegetables. We finished off our meal with the Vietnamese specialty, egg cream. It served both as a terrific rich, silky dessert combined with a slightly bitter and very strong Vietnamese coffee.

We headed to the Temple of Literature after lunch. It served as the first university in Vietnam and it was considered an honor and privilege to attend.

The grounds were beautiful and serene, slightly ethereal.

Our last stop was the small temple on Hoan Kiem Lake. We crossed the beautiful Huc Bridge to reach the shrine which had a majestic 180 degree view of the lake.

After our day tour, we had a nice casual dinner at Noodle & Roll. Our dinner options included a nice array of dishes with a bit of American comfort thrown into the mix.

Then we had our first massage in Vietnam. Spas Hanoi’s deep tissue massage is not for the faint of heart. The diminutive stature of the female masseuses are deceptive as they are freakishly strong. The excruciating pain from the intense pressure exerted without any relief during the 90 minute massage is a true testament to the saying that looks can be deceiving.

The massage started with the therapist walking on my back, bearing down all 110 pounds of her on top of me. I felt and heard cracks in each section of my back. The treatment was so intense that I sounded like a woman in the last hour of labor, breathing deeply, wincing in pain but pushing through, knowing that a reward would be had on the other side.

I was quite disoriented for a bit afterwards until we meandered to Hoan Kiem Lake where the loud, pulsating DJ beats at the Saturday night performance resuscitated and invigorated us along with the energy of the hordes of people dancing, tightly packed and jumping in unison to the rhythm of the music, reminiscent of Times Square on New Year’s Eve. After a song or two, we wandered off to walk a bit through the weekend Hanoi Night Market before finally calling it a night.

It was a busy and eventful day to say the least. We immersed ourselves in the many faces of Hanoi, revealed to us through her history, monuments, people and cuisine. To say Hanoi is multilayered would be an understatement. She has a different approach to every situation and can easily adapt to any and all scenarios showing her flexibility and endurance, standing the true test of time.