Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” season 1 introduced me to N/Naka several years ago. I loved hearing Nikki Nakayama’s tale of tenacity at breaking down her family’s gender bias and pushing through the male dominated culinary barriers, harnessing sheer force of grit and determination, something called keeshin in the Japanese culture. It was so moving listening to her narration of how she couldn’t allow herself to be perceived as “less than” by her family or her peers. She harnessed her intuitive and artistic nature to create a mood and a story through her cuisine, much like an artist painting a canvas with varying colors and contrasting textures, creating layers of depth and complexity.
Last year, the Michelin Guide returned to California, and I recalled seeing Instagram posts that N/Naka had been awarded two stars. It was such a huge feat for any restaurant to be granted the honor, but I silently acknowledged that my chances of obtaining a reservation were even more diminished by the well-earned accolade.
Then the coronavirus pandemic upended the world as we knew it. All superfluous enjoyment ceased. Everything became bleak and dark with no light at the end of the tunnel. Social media became my distraction and refuge.
I belonged to a Facebook group, Culver City foodies, and one member had posted that N/Naka was offering $38 bento boxes on Tock. I happened to have read his post a bit after 6 a.m. one Saturday morning and went on the site.
Though most reservations were waitlisted, I was able to get an early dinner pickup time a little over a week later.
I arrived 10 minutes early on my designated day, and surprisingly, others did as well. 5 p.m. was the first available reservation. I was second in line and an Asian woman wearing a mask and gloves had a clipboard, checking off each reservation as we arrived. She went into the nondescript gray building on the corner and emerged with plain brown paper bags containing our takeout, placing the bag inside each of our trunks, providing my first true curbside experience.
At first sight, it was evidenced that great care and consideration was given in the selection of items chosen for the bento box. Each compartment offered a dish which was beautifully and artfully displayed. The combination of offerings was like an orchestra with each instrument playing its part in a composition, creating a cohesive harmony for the palate.
As we slowly immersed ourselves in the experience, savoring the complexity and depth of flavor, we gradually hastened our pace through the edible presentation, reaching a fevered crescendo as we reached the pinnacle of the masterful composition before slowly and mindfully taking pause to enjoy the last few moments, ending on the last and final delicious note.
A few months have since passed, and takeout reservations are now available on Tock at 10 a.m. on Saturdays but have swiftly been sold out in 5 seconds or less. I was fortunate to have learned about the opportunity to partake and to have had great timing as it afforded us the opportunity to enjoy a memorable experience.
The bento box offering by N/Naka was an artful presentation of grace and refinement and reaffirms why Nikki Nakayama has been elevated to be deemed as “greater than” all others in the ultra competitive culinary scene of Los Angeles.
N/Naka
3455 S. Overland Avenue
Los Angeles, CA
I had first read about Sushi Beluga on one of my Yelp searches for new and noteworthy restaurants in the area. Since I had the day off, I decided to give them a try on MLK, Jr. Day.
I checked their opening time which was 11:00 a.m. and headed down to Playa. I arrived around 11:26 a.m. and saw the sign by the door that their soft open business hours were not as advertised, but they were set to open in 4 minutes so I decided to wait it out in my car until 11:30 a.m. and was the first customer through the door.
My server was absolutely lovely and welcoming. She explained that they had only been open only a month and a half and not all the items on the menu were available yet. She went page by page and identified those selections and mentioned that they expect to have the full menu available and be fully operational by the end of January or beginning of February.
I ordered the salmon sample which had 5 pieces of salmon for $15.95. For those doing the math, each piece cost $3.19. It was definitely not a cheap plate, but I was hopeful that the 5 star reviews on Yelp were on point.
I was sold on my first bite of the aburi miso salmon. It was tangy, complex with varying layers of flavors. The salmon tasted like it had hints of mirin, soy, sesame oil and citrus. It turned out to be my favorite on the plate.
That first bite set the stage for the rest. Next was the salmon with yuzu which had a smoky, citrus flavor. The third sample was the salmon truffle which was a bit oilier than the first two and had a slightly earthier aftertaste.
The next two samples were both king salmon as the restaurant was out of ocean trout. The texture of the king salmon was akin to the butteriness of the sashimi I had at Sushi Katsura which was located a couple hundred meters from the famous Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. King salmon #1 was Rey light, citrusy and quite refreshing while king salmon #2 had a bit of crunch and a slight tartness which tasted a bit like mango salsa on top contrasted by the salmon which had a more subdued flavor.
I didn’t believe I would ever taste quality even remotely close to what I indulged in during my visit to Tokyo in 2018 but at long last, I think I found a restaurant that is a much closer than Tokyo and likely a less expensive substitute.
Sushi Beluga is not your cheapest fare but the quality of the food they serve demands a slight upmarket price. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and having been spoiled with the freshness and exemplary cuts of fresh fish in Tokyo, I can wholeheartedly recommend Sushi Beluga as my new local go-to sashimi, sushi and nigiri spot in Playa Del Rey.
Sushi Beluga 207 Culver Blvd. Playa Del Rey, CA 90293 https://www.sushibelugaca.com
The first time we heard about Sakura, we lived walking distance from the restaurant but we didn’t start frequenting it until after we moved away. Over the past 15 years, it’s consistently one of our go-to spots and we’re always happy to return.
On tonight’s menu I ordered the salmon with sashimi and for my husband, a 12 piece sushi plate, a nabeyaki udon and 2 rolls.
My dinner came with a small side salad and miso soup. The lettuce was crisp, cold and fresh and the light sesame vinaigrette had a bit of tang. The miso soup was piping hot and not too salty.
My salmon was a bit dry this time but my tuna sashimi was just right. My husband’s udon comes with either a California or spicy tuna roll. We usually order both which we did again tonight. The spicy tuna had a bit of kick and the California roll was perfectly savory. The rice on the rolls stayed tightly wound around the center.
My husband’s sushi plate was devoured so I’m making the not-so-bold assumption that the quality and flavor were up to par.
He took his nabeyaki udon to go so that he can enjoy the plumped up noodles for lunch tomorrow. Funny story: one of the first times we ate at the restaurant we ordered too much food and by the time the udon came, he couldn’t eat anymore. A day later, he opened up the to-go container and the broth had disappeared. Initially, he was confused and then upset that they had forgotten to give him the broth. That of course made no sense since there would be extra effort to remove the noodles from the broth to pack it up. After he heated it up and tasted it, he realized the noodles had completely absorbed the broth, making that dish even better the next day so that is now his tradition, to order that soup to go, extending the Sakura experience a little bit longer.
The staff is always super friendly and nice. Even when it’s ridiculously busy, the patrons are never rushed and are allowed to enjoy their time at the restaurant. This is one of the many reasons we will keep coming back time after time. Sakura is that rare find with solid food that is reasonably priced, is casual and quite the neighborhood gem.
Sakura
4545 S. Centinela Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90066
Grace Gambin
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