After an action packed three days, our fourth day provided a much needed break from a strict schedule. As luck would have it, an old acquaintance was in town so we decided to have an impromptu meet-up for lunch.
Before our lunch date, we quickly dashed into Cafe Giang for some much needed jolt of caffeine.
The cafe was busting at the seams. It didn’t appear there was one available table but one cleared out shortly after we arrived. There was one server/busboy in our area and he was taking everybody’s orders at once without writing any of it down.
A few minutes later our egg cream coffees arrived. Although the cafe is one of the original shops, the egg cream coffee we had earlier in the week tasted very similar. Both were equally rich, creamy and silky with a bit of bitterness from the coffee, balancing out the two textures and opposing flavors.
After our coffee break, we met up with our friends for lunch at Porte D’Amman. The restaurant was in a beautiful French style building and had split level dining. We were seated upstairs as we had a larger party.
Our group started with two orders of sampler platters. It had a nice mix of spring rolls, ribs, toasted sesame shrimp, grapefruit salad and a few other tasty treats we couldn’t quite identify. Then we ordered a few items from the set lunch menu.
My husband ordered a crab soup and seafood platter while I ordered an egg roll starter and beef kabob.
All the food was delicious and the presentation was exceptional.
After we parted ways, we headed to a massage appointment at Spas Hanoi which was followed by a shopping trip to Hanoi’s Silk Street. Our lunch companion Jackie had mentioned a store called Airashi which was one of the first silk stores we came upon on Hang Gai.
I hadn’t done any preliminary research on the store, but I quickly found a sleeveless dress that had an A-line cut that was flattering. I also found a beautiful blouse so after a little less than thirty minutes, I walked out with $88 worth of silk clothing which was an incredible bargain compared to U.S. prices.
We turned in early as we had to pack for our next adventure which was a three day, two night cruise over Halong Bay.
More to come!
Day 2 started out with a hunt for breakfast. We wandered the streets looking at our options. There was a restaurant next door but it was dark with one guy sitting inside smoking, and it looked a bit sketchy. We saw two ladies across the street setting up a beef pho stall which I’m sure would have been lovely but we were looking for comforts of home.
We found it at the Ann Hanoi Hotel, diagonal from our AirBnb. They had a beautiful breakfast buffet with a made-to-order omelet stand. It was about $15 per person, but we definitely got our money’s worth. Even though it may seem like a splurge by Vietnam’s standards, it was definitely a great way to start the day. They opened at 6:30 a.m. and had a very attentive and gracious staff.
Breakfast was followed by an all day AirBnb tour to the Hanoi’s top landmarks. We learned so much about the city and its history and have a much better understanding of the Vietnamese people as a result.
We started off at the Tran Quoc Pagoda. Our guide, Michael, mentioned that over 70% of Vietnamese people weren’t affiliated with any particular religion but most followed the guidelines of Buddhism, believed in reincarnation and the laws of karma. This was evidenced by all the offerings placed on the altars and the sprinkling of people who came by to worship.
Then we headed off to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. That was definitely a unique experience. It was the first time we understood and realized we were in a socialist country. We weren’t allowed to bring large bags, food or water, and cell phones and cameras were not permitted to be used while inside the building. It had not dawned on us just how sacred Ho Chi Minh was and still is to the Vietnamese people. The property was heavily guarded and all visitors had to remain orderly and in their single file lines. There was complete silence as we entered the building and walked around Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body at his final resting place. Michael had shared Ho Chi Minh‘s story about his humble roots and his meteoric rise to political power. Most attribute the unification of the Vietnamese people to Ho Chi Minh which explained why decades after his death, he is still revered and admired.
After a brief stop to a lacquer shop to learn about the process and entice us to buy their wares, we visited the Museum of Ethnology, learning a bit about the 54 different cultures that comprise the Vietnamese people. There appeared to be a cross mingling of Chinese, Malaysian and Filipino people along with the indigenous people of the lands and as such, the language and traditions blended over the centuries. It was another reminder that Vietnam, just like many countries in the world, is a melting pot.
Egg rolls
Next up was lunch at a local restaurant. We had several delicious courses, starting with a bowl of soup, salad, fish, chicken and vegetables. We finished off our meal with the Vietnamese specialty, egg cream. It served both as a terrific rich, silky dessert combined with a slightly bitter and very strong Vietnamese coffee.
We headed to the Temple of Literature after lunch. It served as the first university in Vietnam and it was considered an honor and privilege to attend.
The grounds were beautiful and serene, slightly ethereal.
Our last stop was the small temple on Hoan Kiem Lake. We crossed the beautiful Huc Bridge to reach the shrine which had a majestic 180 degree view of the lake.
After our day tour, we had a nice casual dinner at Noodle & Roll. Our dinner options included a nice array of dishes with a bit of American comfort thrown into the mix.
Then we had our first massage in Vietnam. Spas Hanoi’s deep tissue massage is not for the faint of heart. The diminutive stature of the female masseuses are deceptive as they are freakishly strong. The excruciating pain from the intense pressure exerted without any relief during the 90 minute massage is a true testament to the saying that looks can be deceiving.
The massage started with the therapist walking on my back, bearing down all 110 pounds of her on top of me. I felt and heard cracks in each section of my back. The treatment was so intense that I sounded like a woman in the last hour of labor, breathing deeply, wincing in pain but pushing through, knowing that a reward would be had on the other side.
I was quite disoriented for a bit afterwards until we meandered to Hoan Kiem Lake where the loud, pulsating DJ beats at the Saturday night performance resuscitated and invigorated us along with the energy of the hordes of people dancing, tightly packed and jumping in unison to the rhythm of the music, reminiscent of Times Square on New Year’s Eve. After a song or two, we wandered off to walk a bit through the weekend Hanoi Night Market before finally calling it a night.
It was a busy and eventful day to say the least. We immersed ourselves in the many faces of Hanoi, revealed to us through her history, monuments, people and cuisine. To say Hanoi is multilayered would be an understatement. She has a different approach to every situation and can easily adapt to any and all scenarios showing her flexibility and endurance, standing the true test of time.
Despite being an ardent foodie, I have never taken a food tour so I decided that Hanoi would be the perfect opportunity to find some hidden gems. Luna, our Airbnb guide, made the evening jaunt worthwhile. First of all, the tour cost $0 so we were already ahead, but we paid for the cost of our food and left our guide a bit of a tip at the end.
We started out sampling some delicious and piping hot pork eggrolls and pork cutlets from a street vendor.
Then we headed off to try some sticky rice,
followed by a sampling of Vietnamese papaya salad and ending the food tour with an off-the beaten path beef pho.
The latter didn’t even have a storefront sign but did have a sign hanging off a tree and was located literally inside a family’s home.
The family previously had a stall but the government forced them to shutter so they have made do and hold a pop-up in their home with limited hours, from 3-7 p.m., serving only one speciality dish that they have clearly perfected.
To get to their establishment, you have to find the sign first and then enter a narrow pathway and climb up very narrow cement stairs which wind upwards. Then you end up on the landing and make a sharp right, taking a few steps before arriving at the restaurant. As in all Asian homes, you’re required to remove your shoes before entering.
We sat down on the low level plastic stools and a few minutes later our pho arrived. The broth was perfectly clear but distilled with hours upon hours of layers of beef essence. The pieces of beef were tender and the noodles were perfectly cooked. There were some herbs in the pho but they weren’t overwhelming. As we were the last customers, I saw the staff heading with our bowls to the kitchen which was in another room, where they were hand washing all of the plates and silverware.
Every square inch was used economically and efficiently which just goes to prove that one doesn’t need a state of the art kitchen to create an amazing dish.
What I particularly enjoyed about our evening, aside from the delicious and unique food of Hanoi, was hearing some of the stories about the norms in the city. There are certain jobs and responsibilities relegated only to women. Regardless of income, the government rations how much each person is able to buy to eat. The reason why storefront businesses are very narrow, deep and tall is property taxation is based on width and not height. Several families and generations of families live within one room, sometimes sharing one bathroom amongst them all with some homes not equipped with any bathrooms.
All of that seems shocking having been raised in the U.S. but it’s just a part of life in Vietnam, and there is a great and overwhelming sense of optimism and ambition amongst the people of Hanoi. If I had to describe the rhythm of the city, it’s a bustling metropolis in the heart of a young country that is readying and positioning itself to be a contender in the world of commercialism.
I just hope that in Hanoi’s valiant efforts to modernize, that it doesn’t turn its back on its roots, history and its values. Only time will tell.
Grace Gambin
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