Filipino food Archives | A Travel Foodie's Journey

February 24, 2019 in Local Eats

Ma’am Sir

I first heard about Charles Olalia through the food he prepared at Rice Bar in downtown Los Angeles. At the time, I was working at Trailer Park and we had a food delivery service called Eat Club which featured certain offerings from various restaurants. I always looked forward to the weeks when Rice Bar offered their longanisa garlic rice bowl and egg which reminded me of my childhood breakfasts.

After I left Trailer Park, I co-chaired the Training Committee at RPA Represent and I was looking for a more organic way to present other cultures and their food and traditions. A coworker suggested I watch Migrant Kitchen and that is where I first was introduced to Charles’ story and his struggles of finding work having been fully educated in the Philippines. I appreciated his tenacity, his drive and how he finally honed in on what he wanted to see in a restaurant which was a return to the basics and roots of Filipino cooking. One could tell that Rice Bar and all its simple dishes embodied that sentiment.

When I heard about him opening a sit-down restaurant, Ma’am Sir, I was beyond excited. It took a while to make my way over because I wanted to share the experience with friends so we could order a sampling of dishes. We finally headed to Silver Lake last night and had our feast.

The meal started off great with two brown bag orders of piping hot pan de sal which can be described as hot dinner rolls. We ordered the house made Pandan curd which had a creamy coconut taste to it.

Then we were served with the hangover rice which was spectacular. On my first bite, I got a bit of crispy garlic, some of the yolk from the egg and the savory fatty juice of the sausage. I could have easily eaten that whole bowl by myself because it had layers of flavors which reminded me of home.

Next to arrive was the lumpia which got mixed reviews. Instead of the usual ground pork, it consisted of shrimp mousse with a small dollop of uni on top and a white vinegar dipping sauce. Though the egg rolls were tightly wrapped and perfectly crispy throughout, a few of us felt that this missed the authenticity of Filipino cuisine.

The chicken adobo bowl, however, was perfect and an upgrade in presentation and flavor combination from the standard Filipino food fare. The chicken was perfectly moist. It tasted like something my mom would have cooked for me as a child.

Next on the list was the happy birthday fried chicken. There were only 3 small pieces so we each shared one since there were 6 of us. I chose the breast because it was closest to me and sadly most of it was quite dry as white meat typically is. However, once I made my way to the less meaty portion, that is when the true brilliance of its flavor, seasoning and texture started to shine. It reminded me of my grandfather’s fried chicken, which was marinaded in Sprite and cooked in lard, leading to superbly moist meat on the inside and crunchy, crispy skin on the outside. It tasted like heaven in a bite.

The pork entree came in two parts as a plate of crispy lechon and a pork stew in a bowl. This was most expensive dish that we selected. The pork stew was fine as the meat was moist and had the traditional Filipino subtle combination of soy sauce, black pepper and vinegar. The lechon was a disappointment. Though I was lucky to have tasted a portion which had a crispy skin, the meat was so chewy, oily and grisly, it was inedible. I had the great fortune of recently visiting Cebu in the Philippines and was lucky enough to have eaten at Rico’s Lechon where each heavenly bite of lechon was perfectly crisp on the outside and meaty and juicy on the inside so I have a recent and accurate frame of reference how this dish should be executed.

The fish entree called bangus which is a milkfish was heavily draped in a sweet soy glaze. I think that was a mistake as less is always more in traditional Filipino cuisine. Though the fish was tender, the overpowering sweetness took away from the subtle flavor of the fish. Traditionally, whole fish is fried and seasoned with salt and pepper in the Philippines so this offering was a departure from that style of cooking.

Our last dinner entree luckily was exceptional and though it was more of a fusion dish, it deserved applause. It was crab noodles with a large dollop of lime creme fraiche on the top. The noodles were perfectly al dente, topped with coconut and basil with a light savory taste. It was delicious.

We ended the evening with their two dessert offerings. Though I didn’t have the mango verrine because of my mango allergies, our friends really enjoyed the combination which resembled a parfait. The banana bibingka was fusion as it didn’t resemble the traditional round rice cake served in a banana leave. It was a sliver of cake with a crispy coconut top layer and a dense center. The whipped cream on the side was truly the icing on the cake because it added just the right amount of flavor to make it a perfect bite.

Though due to the distance, I doubt very much that I would return, what I would recommend is the pan de sal and Pandan curd, the hangover rice, chicken adobo, the birthday chicken (dark meat only) and the crab noodles.

All in all, it was a decent experience, 3 stars out of 5. The restaurant is very pretty , quaint, medium sized and with a very lively crowd. There was predominantly a Caucasian hipster clientele which most Asians would consider to be a negative sign though in this case and in this area might not be the case. It’s always good to have the means to introduce a different culture and flavor combination to people who otherwise would not be exposed to it.

However, as a Filipino who was raised in the U.S. and went to the Philippines for the last two Christmases, I would say that perhaps the menu should be tweaked and the dishes that aren’t true to the culture and traditions be modified. Some of the dishes lost their Filipino soul, flavor and essence and in the case of the crispy lechon, it just completely missed the mark. For the price point and authenticity, I would have to choose Rice Bar over Ma’am Sir as that embodies the true Filipino cuisine.

Ma’am Sir

4330 Sunset Boulevard

Los Angeles, CA 90029

http://www.maamsirla.com

Rice Bar

419 W. 7th Street

Los Angeles, CA 90014

https://www.eatricebar.com

Migrant Kitchen – “Barkada”

https://youtu.be/scoqj9FvoFg

December 23, 2018 in Travel, Travel Explorations

Living the Island Life

When I was in the planning stages for this trip a few months ago, I had identified three excursions on our must do list. Our first day and first outing was an island hopping tour to three islands. I booked all our tours with Island Trek Tour which is a one-stop shop, a tour company which handles bookings with local tour guides.

Our first outing was subcontracted to Fun Sun Dive & Travel. Their location wasn’t too far from where we were staying but with the flooding from the previous evening’s rain storm and the narrow and congested roads, it took about 20 minutes to arrive at our destination.

We ended up chatting with the local tour guide’s manager while we were sipping on tea and coffee. He’s American, probably somewhere around our age. In his prior life, he was a purser from Northwest and Delta but when they merged, he took an early buyout and decided to become a dive instructor. His last gig was in the Palawan/Coron area managing a dive shop there which featured wreck diving amongst its many islands but it closed for renovation so he was happy to find an opening on Mactan Island which is more urban and not as remote and isolated. He said that although the shop offers diving, most of their boats and others they had to subcontract were booked primarily for island hopping that day, indicating its popularity.

After our brief chat, our crew was ready to head out to sea. We had a small group of 7. There was a Korean family, a husband and wife with their young son on the boat with us as well as an American born Asian guy in his early 30s traveling with his girlfriend. Though he’s originally from Orange County, they now live in Japan.

We made a few pit stops with the crew, dropping some off on boats on the way and/or dropping off supplies until we finally made it to our actual island hopping boat which was anchored the furthest out to the right of the harbor. We weren’t quite sure if we were actually going to make it out because it took about 20-30 minutes to get the engine started which sounded like it had been flooded possibly from the evening’s storm.

We finally went to our first snorkel stop. It took a while to get there, probably 30 minutes or so. We passed by quite a few islands as we made our way across the vast sea before arriving at our first site, Hilutungan Island, where it appeared there were close to 8-10 other boats already anchored.

I noticed a few yellow kayaks with guys dressed in yellow vests who appeared at first glance to be life guards. I saw one guy board our ship who immediately started chatting it up with me and asked if I’m Tagalog. I had never been referred to by that term but I understood what he meant. It was also very clear that he was getting a read on us to see if we would be willing to buy a few things from him. He immediately offered us some coconut juice, other types of beverages and beer. I sensed that we were being hustled so I turned to Troy and gave him that warning look. We opted for the coconut juice and that’s when he said it was going to cost 300 pesos but not to worry about it until after we finished snorkeling.

It was an overcast day so the visibility wasn’t optimal. We spent about 40 minutes watching the schools of fish as they went about their day, heading en masse towards one area where they were occasionally being fed by one of the crew from a boat alongside ours. It was a nice peaceful and relaxing introduction to the islands and being welcomed back by the sea.

When we came back onboard, our coconut juice with 2 straws was ready. Our fellow passengers also ordered the same thing. While we were sipping, Troy noticed a net of shellfish being shown to the family. He asked what it was and that’s when our guy said for us not to pay attention to the guy showing them his goods but to look at what he brought us. He showed us a live abalone which was clearly trying to escape as it pushed its way off the bench and onto the floor. He offered to grill us some of his catch to which we politely declined. Then he tried to offer us some bracelets and necklaces to purchase. Even though I stiffened at the thought of being solicited while we were on a private charter, I reminded myself that he lived on that remote island, that he had few opportunities to make a living, that he was being pleasant enough and just like the abalone, he was trying to survive. Eventually, he got the hint and after we paid him for the juice, he left the boat.

Our next destination was quite a ways away. It probably took us close to an hour to get to Pandanon Island which is halfway between Cebu and Bohol with the latter laying claims to the island. We were told that while we walked around and swam around the island, the crew would be preparing our lunch for us. We walked around the beach for a bit and saw that families and friends had rented covered thatched cottages. There were guys playing beach volleyball and several groups grilling out and serving delicious looking local food in batches. I realized that some of the people were there with families and friends enjoying their weekend. This is how they spent their leisure time, cooking for themselves and their loved ones, out on the beach, catching up, laughing and eating and enjoying each other’s company. If the locals who lived in their very humble homes on a remote island with likely very meager means could find contentment in the simple and basic joys of life, then I should learn from them. It made me smile that they didn’t take for granted the importance of relationships and truly made an effort as a group to show their appreciation for each other by putting together an amazing feast and serving it for all to enjoy.

With that, we headed to the other side of the beach, leaving the groups to enjoy their private celebrations. We decided to take in a bit of island time, our way. I had planned on a beach outing and brought our picnic blankets, lined with tarp-like plastic on one side and a fuzzy cloth material on the other. I knew it would make dusting off the sand much easier than a regular beach blanket. The sun was shielded behind the clouds but the air was warm and there was a cool beach breeze making for a nice day to lay out. We closed our eyes and listened to the waves lapping, the sound of coals burning and of food sizzling, blending in with the sounds of laughter and conversations by our fellow beach companions. It was our first full day on vacation and I finally started to relax and unwind.

At 12:30, we headed back onboard and we were welcomed by an unbelievable feast which was somehow prepared and grilled to perfection on the actual boat. There were triangles of sticky rice ensconced in banana leaves. Grilled pork, chicken and shrimp skewers were laid out in island style baskets and the meal was finished off with mango halves, squared for easy consumption along with some local bananas. What was unique about this meal was there were no forks, spoons, knives or even napkins. Everything was eaten with your hands which made it that much more authentic, more rustic. It was the perfect island dining experience with amazingly delicious, moist and flavorful food prepared in a very humble setting. One of the boat’s crew dunked a pail into the sea and offered that water to wash off the remnants of our meal from our fingers. It was a very grounding experience to say the least.

Our last snorkel stop, Nalusuan island, seemed quite a ways away and by the time we arrived, the sun was peeking out, warming up the sea and enhancing the visibility. We swam alongside tiny schools of fish as they weaved together in synchronicity, watched as other fish took sustenance from the coral below and others as they swam along their merry way.

After some time in the sea, it was finally time time to head back. I fell asleep briefly on the boat and felt like I woke up a new person with a deeper appreciation for my Homeland’s culture, its people, their generosity and spirit. I wanted to remember the lessons of humility and gratitude that the islands taught me and to encapsulate and incorporate that mindset in my day-to-day life going forward. I now remember that life is about making connections, maintaining them and enjoying each other’s company while we have the opportunity. Life may have its challenges but we should never feel downtrodden as long as we have each other.

Island Trek Tours

https://www.islandtrektours.com

Fun Sun Dive & Travel

https://www.funsundivetravel.com/island-hopping/open-boat/

Archive Filipino food Archives | A Travel Foodie's Journey

Ma’am Sir

Living the Island Life

Grace Gambin