We had the great fortune of meeting Chef Jason Fullilove when he opened up a pop-up in Culver City just up the street from our home. I likely read about Barbara Jean on Eater or Infatuation and with its close proximity, we decided to give it a try.

The kitchen was open to the dining area, and we watched Chef Fullilove at work, putting together the dishes for his customers. There weren’t many of us dining so initially I had some doubts about the quality of the food. However, after sampling one entree after another, surprising and overwhelming our taste buds, we were sold.

Chef Jason Fullilove came by to ask how our dinner was and we found him to be a truly cool cat. I mentioned that I normally held Honey’s Kettle in the highest regard and placed them on the pedestal of best fried chicken on the Westside but his version completely unseated them. The recipes of all the soul food inspired items we ordered were so upmarket that it didn’t seem befitting for such a casual location. I asked why there was very little advertising or marketing being done on behalf of the restaurant. He said he was experimenting with word of mouth as being the primary method of organic advertising. I was truthfully worried that wasn’t going to be sufficient but I did my part by writing about the pop-up on my blog, posting my review on Yelp and spreading the word to all my friends and neighbors. Sadly, the pop-up didn’t last in the area but for a few months.

Since then, I followed Chef Fullilove’s career on social media. He moved his pop-up to various locations throughout Los Angeles. He even had a stint as the chef at The Magic Castle. When I read that he was one of the rotating chefs at Abernathys at the Music Center, I immediately made dinner reservations as we had Alvin Ailey tickets for a Saturday evening show in April. Then the pandemic struck and everything was cancelled. One restaurant after another was forced to permanently shudder, and it was heartbreaking to read about them, knowing that with each closure, dreams were being shattered.

After months of quarantine, restaurants were finally allowed to reopen for outdoor dining. A few weeks ago, I saw an Instagram post that Chef Fullilove was back on the Westside at an Abbot Kinney restaurant called Neighbor. I looked for Chef Fullilove’s menu on Yelp and Instagram but couldn’t find one. Knowing that Chef was at the helm, we made dinner reservations on faith that it would be just as good if not better than our Barbara Jean experience.

Upon our arrival, we mentioned to our server Candace that we had dined at one of Chef’s pop-ups previously and we would love to say “hi” to him if he was available. He promptly came out to greet us, and he was just as we remembered him. It started off our evening on the right foot.

We began our decadent meal with a quintessential Los Angeles offering. Chef Fullilove’s interpretation of the brussels sprouts included a cauliflower coconut puree as a dipping sauce with a few sprinklings of pomegranate seeds. The brussels sprouts were crispy, slightly smoky and a bit charred but not excessively which would have masked that the starter was actually a vegetable dish. The pops of pomegranate added a bit of tartness as well as a holiday look and feel to the dish.

Next to arrive were the homemade buttermilk biscuits. The biscuits were a prime example of Chef’s southern cuisine expertise. They were piping hot, with a crispy exterior. The biscuits were dense with a hint of cheese and herbs. The pat of butter may have been drizzled with a bit of honey or perhaps liquified caramelized onions. The concentrated concoction had a bit of an unexpected but welcomed fried chicken aftertaste. Adding a bit of heat to the biscuits was the pepper jelly.

The mixture for the chicken liver butter had a base of smoked apple sauce and pickle mustard seeds. It had a very earthy flavor and incredibly smooth texture, oozing into the crevices of the thick pieces of toasted bread.

Arriving simultaneously were the uni deviled eggs which were topped with Santa Barbara sea urchin, yuzu kosho and tobiko. It was an interesting and unexpected combination with a bit of Japanese influence.

The smoke trout rillettes were quite substantial and hearty. The mealy hush puppies sat alongside a thick, creamy mixture reminiscent of a tuna salad topped with trout roe.

After our assortment of starters, our entrees arrived.

My husband’s burger was quite large and came with a generous side of fries. The beef patty was so incredibly tender, it almost tasted as if it was a shredded beef sandwich.

The fried chicken was moist and tender with a very subtle heat, as if it had been marinated in buttermilk and perhaps tabasco. Its batter was light and crispy but tightly packed. The sauce tasted a bit like thousand island dressing which was a nice pairing with the chicken.

Last but not least were the turmeric pork ribs with toasted sesame seeds. They were tender and moist with a slightly tangy barbecue sauce.

We are incredibly happy that Chef Fullilove is back in West LA and cannot wait to introduce his Southern cuisine which he has expertly fused with a bit of Asian influence. His menu offering is perfect for the ethnically diverse city of Venice Beach. We’re hoping that he makes the Westside his “Neighbor”-hood home for a bit so we can introduce his spectacular cuisine to some of our friends and continue to partake in his sensational offerings.

Neighbor

1031 Abbot Kinney

Venice, CA 90291