Cartagena had been on our bucket list as it promised beautiful colored buildings, delicious eats and a peek into the South American culture.  

As I had already booked our Christmas holiday at the nearby island of Curacao, I thought it would be a nice change to have back-to-back vacations over the holiday break.  I found a hotel in Cartagena, the Hyatt Regency, which was about $120 per night with breakfast so I booked it in January of 2022 and frankly didn’t think about it for months as I had two other vacations which predated the Caribbean/South American adventure. By the time I was ready to book air travel, I decided to cut the Cartagena trip short by one day but realized upon logging on that the nightly rate had increased to over $400.  I contacted a Hyatt representative who suggested I keep my existing booking because if I made any changes, the nightly rate would be bumped up to the higher amount.  I took her advice and months later, we were on our flight from Curacao with a short layover in Bogota.  While at the airport in Bogota, I opted to pay for the Avianca lounge which promised a few samplings of food and beverages. It took some effort to find the lounge as it was on the opposite end of the building past security. There were only a few guests eating and resting in the lounge so finding a table was not an issue. After we dropped off our bags, we headed over to the food stations to find some late-night sustenance.  

I spotted the potato with bacon sprinkles and as I was investigating the soup, I saw that a girl had nachos so I asked where she got them. She pointed to where I initially picked up the patatas so I backtracked and got myself a nice helping. I also grabbed a bowl of some creamy soup and ate the potatoes, bacon and soup together. On my way back from getting orange juice, I saw that fresh food had been set next to where the potatoes were.

I asked what it was and she said it was an egg wrap which was essentially a cheese quesadilla. Satiated, we got onto the next leg of the flight to our final destination.

As neither of us spoke Spanish and we were set to arrive after 10 p.m., I previously arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to our lodging for the week.  Upon arrival at the Hyatt, we waited a few minutes to check in as there was a small queue and then we proceeded to head to our room where we immediately ordered room service.  

As I unpacked and organized our belongings, our dinner arrived which we ate quickly, and we were finally able to nod off for the evening.  

The next day, we woke up and looked out our floor to ceiling window and saw Cartagena in its full glory.  Though there was quite a bit of work being done on the beach and road outside of our hotel, it was a glorious sight to behold as we had a 180-degree view of the ocean. Delighted and ready to start our day, we headed out to sample our first breakfast at the hotel.  

I had booked a room with Club Access which afforded us a daily buffet breakfast and happy hour in their club lounge.  

It was one of the best perks of the trip.  The lounge was two doors down from our room and offered the same magnificent floor to ceiling view of the ocean and the beachside area.  After breakfast, we headed to the gym, which was surprisingly expansive and also had great floor to ceiling windows, and after our workout, we changed clothes and headed out to the city.  

Our first local outing was to El Bony Kiosk owned by a famous local boxer which was a 21-minute walk south of where our hotel was located. It was our first authentic insight into the city and the walk to this famous restaurant was challenging.  At the time of our visit, parts of the sidewalks were closed off and undergoing construction.  Street traffic was constant and loud.  The streets were in disrepair, and part of our walk involved walking over muddied streets and broken concrete. There were vendors at every turn offering their wares, recreational drugs and women, and there were some foul street smells which wafted our way. We chose to ignore it and trek south, sweating buckets as the heat, sun and humidity tried their best to wear us down. By the time we arrived at the beachfront restaurant, even my iPhone camera lens needed to be defogged. 

The restaurant fortunately had indoor dining with many fans circulating air.  Once we were seated, I placed my bag on the back of my chair. In Spanish, an older gentleman gestured that I should have my bag in front of me at all times, because it would easily be stolen.  The waitresses spoke very little English, but we were able to communicate what we wanted to order. 

 The fillet of the day was a sea bass which was nicely grilled with a bit of seasoning.

My husband ordered a shrimp pasta dish which was cooked al dente and the shrimp was petite but delicious. I normally steer clear of plantains but what was served was exceptional.  It was flattened, deep fried, lightly salted and quite honestly, addicting.

After lunch, we headed back towards the hotel but made a side detour to a parallel street which very much was your typical congested city street so it took us out of vacation mode for a bit.  We needed to stock up on bottled water for our room so once we had those in our possession, we headed back to the hotel.  

At this point, we were definitely overheated so a much-needed stop at the pool was in order.  We rested a bit before getting ready for an early dinner in the old city.  Luckily, we had reserved an Uber ride a few hours prior as it would have been impossible to get one when we actually needed to leave.  It was the middle of rush hour traffic so our driver had to drop us off outside the city wall, and we meandered our way to Buena Vida using Google maps.  

The restaurant was set in a beautiful colorful and picturesque part of the city with a stunning view of the streets of the walled city.  As a bonus, there was a live trio playing music during our meal.  Parched and starving, we immediately ordered drinks and all things savory.  

The ceviche was unique with the coconut milk and pork cracklings. The fish was incredibly tender and savory.

The crispy plantains added a bit of texture.

My shrimp dish was phenomenal. It had a bit of sweetness from the coconut rice but the lemongrass and pepper sauce dialed it down.

My husband’s “mac & sea” was incredibly rich and decadent. Definitely a diet buster!!

After dinner, we headed to Townhouse for some post dinner dessert and drinks.  It was renowned for being one of the top bars in the city, and it did not disappoint.  

It had beautiful rooftop views of the city and we were definitely with the “in crowd.”  

We ordered a few drinks and also a decadent Oreo dessert which admittedly took a little longer to be served.  

After the additional sustenance, we walked around to experience a bit more of the city’s vibe, but we somehow meandered outside of the city walls and into a much grittier part of town so we decided to flag down a taxi and head back to the hotel for the evening.  

The next morning, we had a 10 a.m. old city tour so we headed out shortly after breakfast and decided to walk instead of taking a cab or uber so that we could work off our breakfast.  It wasn’t as daunting of a walk as the morning prior.  Heading north seemed and felt safer as the more touristy part of town was in that vicinity.  We passed by a few military personnel taking a meal break by the park, and surprisingly, the sidewalks and streets heading to the city center were not dilapidated and in excellent condition. Once we arrived at the designated meeting site, we waited until more people had congregated before the tour began.  

Cartagena’s history was similar to Curacao’s where we had just spent Christmas.  As with many colonies, the city was sieged, plundered and their natural resources were taken.

Many of the indigenous people were killed to make room for some wealthy and privileged people who opted to stay and take over the best parts of the city.  Our guide, Elis, was great, very boisterous and quite funny so it was definitely time well spent.  She regaled us with stories about pirates and privateers burning down the main city, and the natives being slaughtered, tortured or purified during the Spanish Inquisition. The Cartagenans took pride in surviving all the horrific crimes committed against their people.  Financial success though has evaded the majority of the population.  In present day, 75% are considered lower class while the remaining fall in the middle and upper class so there’s still a huge gap of socioeconomic disparity.  

After the enlightening tour, we headed to La Cevicheria where many moons ago, Anthony Bourdain dined.  We ordered quite a few items from the menu, perhaps too many as the portions were huge.  

The tasty light, crispy potato chips served with the hot picante sauce and mild mustard sauce started out our gourmet experience.

The Colombian mixed ceviche was their specialty and did not disappoint. The shrimp was plump and the fish was cubed, sitting in a lime, parsley marinade. The shrimp brava was a beautiful surprise.

The shrimp had a bit of paprika and the sauce had smoky tomato base. The slices of avocado added a nice creamy and pop of contrasting color to the dish. 

The lobster paella was massive. Two half lobster tails were served atop a bed of shrimp, squid, mussels, clams, bell peppers and savory wet Spanish rice. 

After lunch, we took a taxi back to our hotel and had a brief rest before heading to the gym for an afternoon workout.  Once we checked that off our list, we went back to our room to get ready for dinner.    

The economic disparity mentioned in our city tour became readily apparent when we decided to walk to dinner in the Old City at night. Though it was wonderful to see how the locals spent their leisure time, seeing the street activities, the hordes of people with their friends and family, walking through dark and ominous alleyways was a stark contrast to our dinner experience at Cande which was the most upscale restaurant we visited.

All the patrons were dressed to the nines, men were required to wear closed toe shoes and some of the women even brought their designer bags. The venue oozed of privilege.

We were served with a starter of what appeared to be a donut. It was warm, sugary with a hint of anise. It had a slightly mealy texture and was incredibly unique.

The appetizer guiso de mariscos del Mercado seafood stew was delicious, had a creamy tomato base with perfectly cooked pieces of shrimp, conch and squid.

My crab dish was savory with almost a stew like consistency alongside the chunks of crab. The red sauce added a bit of bitterness to each bite.  

My husband’s fish dish was cheesy and a bit more dense with shredded potatoes on top of the sweet black coconut rice. What followed was my husband’s review of his entree.  “It’s the best dish I’ve ever had. Every bite is just great. Deliciouso!”  

For dessert, the coconut pie was served warm and was literally just shreds of coconut. The chocolate drops added a bittersweet bite. The ice cream was tart which was an interesting contrast but might have been too overpowering for the dish. Vanilla may have been a more complimentary option. 

In addition to the delicious food, there were several performers and dancers who meandered throughout the restaurant wearing vibrant over-the top costumes which was quite entertaining and made for a lively and festive dinner experience.  

The next morning, we decided to head to the fort.  I considered walking, but it was a really warm morning.  When we arrived downstairs, the concierge mentioned that the white and green vehicles often parked in the hotel’s driveway were the most honest of all rideshares in the city.  The drivers have a fixed rate regardless of time and traffic.  He offered us a ride in one that was available, and we headed off to our destination.  

Once we paid for our entrance tickets, we opted to hire a tour guide on site.  Ulysses was an older gentleman who had a lot of zest and enthusiasm in the city’s history.  Cartagena was the second oldest city in Colombia and established in 1533.  He mentioned that the fort was designed from top to bottom by a Dutch architect named Richard Carr.  There were seven small forts inside the big fort with 65 cannons.  The Spanish came and took the gold, silver and emeralds from the Indians and shipped them to Spain. From then on out, the city was plagued with pirates robbing the city and Spain, France and England besieged Cartagena with battles for control of the city.  The fort was built as a means for the Spanish and Cartagenans to protect their families and homes.  During one of the battles, they had a stroke of luck when the British drank water and got diarrhea, yellow fever, malaria and tropical disease. However, for the other attacks, the fort had very strategically placed defenses at various levels.  There were areas where soldier could hide and shoot from a concealed area or angles which shielded the shooters from being seen by intruders above.

The soldiers spent months in the tunnel adjusting to the darkness so they would have the advantage of finding their way in times of battle.  

Each section of the fort had canons specifically pointed in certain strategic angles for maximum protection.  Some canons were designed to move left to right which gave them more flexibility in warding off attackers.  It was a fascinating education and insight into how the people came together to protect their city from invaders.  

After our tour, we got a ride back into town to have a much more humble and reasonably priced lunch at 1595.  It had a beautiful courtyard which had outdoor tables.  Luckily, they also had air-conditioned indoor dining available. We ordered from their lunch menu. 

 The soup had a really nice savory flavor as it had beef bone, potatoes, celery, carrots, pepper. It reminded me of traditional Filipino soups that cooked on the stove for hours.

My fish entree was almost like a fish chowder, thick and creamy with celery and onions. Accompanying the lightly breaded fish filet was a large serving of rice, a small salad and possibly red sweetened plantains.

My husband’s chicken and mushroom was also exceptional. The chicken breast had been pounded and cooked in a creamy mushroom sauce.

The rest of the accompaniments were the same.

We were also served a small serving of a refreshing jello dessert. 

After lunch, we had our first of two massages at Uraku Spa.  I had a massage from a pregnant lady who was phenomenal.  My husband and I each opted for the 90-minute deep tissue massage and by the time we headed out, we were utterly relaxed.  

We took a taxi back to our hotel and had a snack in the hotel’s lounge and brief rest before getting ready for dinner.   

Originally, we had dinner reservations at Mardeleva which was renowned for their coconut shrimp but during our city tour, we met a family who had recently dined at Carmen and gave it rave reviews.  I had read about it but thought it was a bit expensive but hearing them describe the dishes, I opted to try to put us on the waitlist.  After we were dropped off in front of Mardeleva, I received a WhatsApp notification that a table was available for us at Carmen.  Luckily, the restaurant wasn’t too far away so we practically ran to get there on time.  

Carmen was like a beautiful jewelry box, and we were fortunately seated in their outdoor Spanish courtyard where we could listen to the musicians during our dinner service.  

The complimentary plantain with fish and coffee tasted more like a dessert than a starter. It tasted sour but with a strong coffee undercurrent and also a bit tart. One would never think to pair all these three flavors together but it worked and was exceptional!! 

The fish had a slightly crisp exterior, immersed in a coconut sauce with a risotto which was perfectly al dente.

The short rib was tender, served with a sprinkling of chives giving it a sweet flavor.  The mashed potatoes beneath had a creamy texture with an oyster aftertaste.  It was yet another fantastic dining experience in the Old City.  

On our fourth day, we decided to take the morning off and just lounge at the hotel.  We ate breakfast, worked out at the gym and then lounged and ate lunch by the pool.  The lower level pool was much more expansive and had a bar and restaurant adjoining it.  It was really nice to just decompress and enjoy the hotel and its amenities. 

Later in the afternoon, we headed back into town for a walking tour of Getsemani.  It was a transitional neighborhood which had beautifully vibrant murals and a very lively local scene.  

We watched a group of guys playing dominoes, saw artists selling their work and observed patrons visiting the local restaurants and bars.  Our tour guide even took us to his home where we watched his grandson play soccer in the streets.  He shared that at one point, the area was populated with drug dealers and in a calculated measure to push them out and make it more habitable, they put up the beautiful umbrellas at the top of the street where the drugs were being sold and built a playground around the corner, creating a more festive and family-oriented neighborhood where parents could feel safe raising their kids.

After our tour, we walked over to our dinner reservation at El Arsenal.  

They had my name on a lit tablet at the table reserved for us which was a lovely touch.  

Since it was a rum bar, we did sample a few.  For dinner, we started with the seared sesame tuna with salad. The ahi seared tuna was a dish I made at home on a weekly basis, and I have to say my homemade version was better and more flavorful. However, the orzo was spectacular. It had cheese and veggies, and was really herbaceous. The steak was fine, a bit thick but still tender. The chicken was also good but not great. Overall, El Arsenal was fine but compared with the other exceptional restaurants, it left a bit to be desired.  The staff though, was incredibly hospitable and gracious during our visit.ß

Our last full day in Cartagena was New Year’s Eve, and we headed back into the Old City too try out Mardeleva which we spontaneously skipped the other evening in favor of the last-minute reservation at Carmen.  Unfortunately, as luck would have it, Mardeleva was closed for lunch as it was preparing for the New Year’s Eve dinner service.  Luckily, we ran into Elis, our boisterous city tour guide, and she recommended Mistura which was around the corner.  

There was a short line outside the restaurant, because it wasn’t yet open.  Once the doors opened, they began seating people immediately.  They asked us if we had a reservation which we did not, but they sat us anyways.  Seeing the dining room quickly fill up, we ordered right away.  

The fried plantain starter was crisp and lightly salted which somehow negated the sweetness.

The shrimp appetizer was served atop a cornbread unlike any I’ve ever tasted. It almost reminded me of a polenta cake.

The shrimp was nice, plump and smoky and the creamy tangy sauce had a bit of an earthy flavor from the chives and a bit of saltiness from stripes of bacon softened by the coconut cream.

The rice dish was phenomenal. The oyster sauce gave it a dark tint and a bit of saltiness and the mushrooms made it super creamy. The shrimp had parmesan sprinkled throughout. If there was a perfect dish, this would be it.  The choreography of the service was unparalleled.  There were two members of the staff who stood against the window and wall who were assigned the watch the tables and clear as necessary.  Mistura was a phenomenal dining experience.  

After lunch, we headed to our second and final massage at Uraku which once again was blissfully relaxing.  Then we headed back to the hotel to get ready and went back out to the Old City for our evening’s festivities.

For our New Year’s Eve dinner, we opted to dine on the rooftop at Mar Y Zielo.  The year prior, I had done some research on the most cost-effective dinners in town and the restaurant had received high marks for its value and quality.  I had prepaid for the dinner so there was nothing to do but enjoy the food and the atmosphere.  

The complimentary bread was nutty and the spread gave it a creamy texture.

The first starter was a nice crispy pop of something with a creamy hummus type side.

The second starter was akin to a chicken empanada which was tender and savory. The banana leaf rice dish was nice and savory and tasted like it was mixed with beans. I tasted a bit of beef once I delved more into it.  

At one point, the chef of the evening who was flown in from Bogota came out to greet us which was a very pleasant surprise.  

To top off the night, we were treated to a spectacular fireworks show at midnight with all the patrons ending up dancing around the restaurant in merriment.  Not wanting to be up too late as our flight was scheduled for the next morning, we started heading out and noticed that the entire restaurant shared the same menu and that every table was fully.  The merriment was definitely in full swing on the streets of the Old City as well.  Restaurants had long tables in the middle of the road, people were dancing and partying on the streets, and it was such a festive vibe. 

Looking back, Cartagena is probably one of my favorite cities.  We thoroughly enjoyed learning about their history, seeing the sights and enjoying their exceptional culinary delights.  However, I do recognize that Cartagena is not for everybody.  There are definitely some unsavory characters and sketchy areas, but that can be said about many cosmopolitan cities.  Cartagena just had an energy that can only be described as pulsating, spirited and strong willed.  Looking forward to returning in the very near future!