In the summer of 2022, my husband and I went on a ten-day Parisian vacation.  It was curated primarily around restaurants and sites with a sprinkle of luxury shopping along the way.  If I’m speaking your language, then welcome, and I hope you enjoy this very detailed itinerary as we explored Paris with our eyes, tummies and wallets.

Our first introduction to Paris’ melting pot of culture and flavors presented itself in the Marais, our home away from home. Upon checking into our VRBO, we headed out to the famed Marches Enfants Rouge.

It had previously been a children’s hospital in its former life but was transformed into an open-air farmers market where one could buy produce as well as sample some of the local eats.

Since we were still getting our bearings and the market was further away than we anticipated, we stopped off at Au Coeur du Marais where we met Clem, a fantastic bartender who upon seeing our Rolling Stones shirts, immediately comped us a drink as the Stones were his favorite band.

In addition to our first drink, the restaurant/bar was also where we had our first meal in the city. Clem ordered us an off-the menu special, a jambon et fromage baguette. It was actually quite good and very filling.

After our pre-lunch drink and snack, we headed to the market to a stall called Les Enfants du Marche which I’m sad to say was a disappointment despite all the hype.

My husband ordered a salmon and apricot entrée (28 euros), and I opted for a dry aged sirloin (35 euros) as well as a tall chilled glass of beer.

The latter was probably the best part of our order. Sadly, the salmon was lackluster and oddly flavored, and the sirloin was quite chewy and barely edible.

Disappointed but not discouraged, we headed back towards home and picked up some groceries at the store across our pied-a-terre and then unpacked and got some R&R before getting ready for our first dinner outing.

I found Datscha from the Forbes list of 20 Best Restaurants to try in Paris and opted to make it our first Parisian dinner due to its close proximity to our VRBO.

Upon entering the restaurant, we walked into a dark cavern which opened up to an expansive bright lush atrium where we were seated for our dinner experience. We lucked into a fabulous server named Aniss, who took the time to explain the highlights of the menu in English.

The flatbread had a salty pretzel type aftertaste with a hint of an oniony component.

The fried lasagna was quite unique and served in a pool of sauce with a bit of citrus, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a hint of heat from the pepper.

The coconut curry almost had the consistency of a cake with maybe some egg and a cold slightly hard cheese mixed in for a bit of texture and complexity. It was served with their version of a miniature Caesar salad. The romaine was thick, crisp but diminutive.

The monkfish was by far my favorite. It was a thick piece of filet with a creamy citrus sauce and had a bit of smoke but wasn’t overdone.

Our dessert was a tangy berry sherbet topped with a chocolatey syrup and a burnt white chocolate crust which was exceptionally unique. By 8 p.m. the restaurant was full, and there wasn’t one empty seat in the house. It was definitely quite popular with the younger, attractive, upwardly mobile crowd. The restaurant surprisingly played an eclectic selection of LA old school gangster rap ranging from Snoop, Dr. Dre and Tupac. I would describe Datscha as upscale, a definite must try if one is a foodie and looking for unique interpretations of various dishes in a unique setting.

After dinner, we decided to wander off and literally get lost.

We walked by the Centre Pompidou,

observed a few street acts,

sauntered by a few floral festooned restaurants,

stopping by one for a drink.

Then we meandered past a mall and beautiful church, and that’s where things went awry. I failed to bring my portable battery, and our router had gone dead.

We wandered the streets trying to pick up on free wifi and ended up eating a second dinner of sorts of delicious creamy bacon carbonara and fries and ordered some additional adult beverages. Despite the wifi access, we still could not figure out how to get back so by some miracle on a busy night, we were able to hail a cab. Exhausted and in a panic, we rattled off our address in broken French interspersed with English which caused our driver to give us an ultimatum: chill out or get out as our negative energy was exhausting him. That was a jolt of reality as we did need to reset. Luckily, we calmed ourselves down, he figured out where we needed to go, and he dropped us off in front of our rental.

The next morning was our first of two luxury hauls. We headed over to Coco Chanel’s original store at 31 Rue Cambon. I had tried for months to get an appointment and was unable so we planned to wait in line. By the time we arrived at 10:20 a.m., there were already two lines inside the store. As it didn’t appear to be moving, I left my husband to wait as I walked across the street to Dior where I had an 11 a.m. appointment.

I was assigned a young male sales associate who spoke impeccable English as he was a student at Columbia University and working at the store during his summer break. I selected my purse, the coordinating thin silk scarfs and charms for the bag I chose, provided my passport for the VAT refund and payment information and returned to Chanel while the Dior purchases were being packed.

An hour after initially entering Chanel, we were greeted by a female sales associate who led us to the ready to wear section as she collected the two bags that I requested. I opted for the larger of the two as it accommodated my sunglasses as well as my cardholder and a few other small items.

After another hour spent with the formalities involved in submission of the VAT refund, we headed to our final shopping destination of the day.

We had made arrangements via email to meet with a sales associate at Breitling so the process of purchasing was fairly seamless and since we put a large dent in our accounts, when we were offered a bottle of chilled vodka, we accepted gleefully and decided to celebrate early.

Needing sustenance after an arduous morning, we made our way to the famous Angelina.

There was a line to enter, but it only took about fifteen minutes and was definitely worth the wait.

Our first course was the Caesar salad which was tangy and cheesy and quite generous in size.

Next to be served was the pasta dish which was robust in flavor and complemented with a Parmesan crisp.

My fish and chips were lightly battered but tender and flaky and served with delicate, dainty, crispy fries.

For dessert, we ordered the hot white chocolate which was quite creamy and smooth and definitely a decadent treat.

The chocolate praline was a nice accompaniment and hit all the right notes: slightly bitter with a crunchy shell and a creamy middle.

After lunch, we collected my Dior purchases and then headed home for a bit of rest before getting ready for the evening.

Our second evening’s dinner was at Le Comptoir de Traboule which was a great neighborhood find.

We started with the saumon gravlax which my husband commented was sushi grade quality fish. It was served with a crispy tempura and apricot sesame sauce which gave it a slightly sweet flavor.

Next up was the soft-shell crab which was crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside and set on a green curry sauce which gave it an Asian flare.

The sliced beef tataki had an onion flavor in its dipping sauce and was seared but slightly pink in the center.

Last but definitely not least was my personal favorite dish of the night which was the asparagus with egg which had a creamy soup appearance.

We ended off our dining experience with a mug chocolate cake which was served piping hot. The inside was bittersweet, rich and gooey that it definitely gave us a jolt of caffeine.

We had 9 p.m. tickets for the Eiffel Tower so we headed out for our eight minute walk from the restaurant.

Unlike our first visit, we opted to see the city from the tower at dusk.

In late June, the sun sets at 9:46 p.m. so we had a bit of time to enjoy the view from above.

We stayed up top until the tower was lit which occurred around 10 p.m. After a few obligatory purchases from the gift shop, we made our way down so that we could see the twinkling lights from the street which began right at 11 p.m. It was magical and breathtaking and well worth the effort and the wait. We hailed a taxi and headed back for the evening.

Our third day in Paris had us heading out quite early for a guided Versailles Palace and garden tour.

Coincidentally, we headed back to an area quite close to the Eiffel Tower which was our meeting point. After a fairly short bus ride, we arrived at Versailles which already had long lines of people waiting to be admitted.

One of the upsides to a guided tour is being allowed into a less congested entrance.

The other bonus was the history lesson with our guide who pointed out specific paintings and certain pieces of furniture which were significant in the lives of those who previously inhabited the palace’s walls.

After a very detailed tour of the interior, we were given our tickets to explore the gardens.

Unfortunately, we only had one hour left and the area was so expansive that we just stayed in the area near the palace.

Because we visited on a Saturday in the summer, the gardens offered a water show at each of the designated locations.

After our Versailles visit, we hailed a taxi to take us to our lunch reservation at Chez L’Ami Jean which I accurately assessed would be the best of the best during our visit to Paris. I first heard about the restaurant from one of Phil Rosenthal’s episodes which was set in Paris.

Chef Stephane Jego was behind the kitchen the entire time with only one person helping him. Observing him from our table, he prepared every dish with precise accuracy like a surgeon.

We ordered a few items so that we would have an accurate assessment of the experience.

The first dish was a thick filet of tuna which had a smoky flavor akin to a steak but was moist and had a slightly crispy burnt texture. The peas were crisp, fresh and served with sliced beets, and both served as perfect accompaniments to the marinated tuna.

Our second dish was the asparagus which was perfectly grilled and layered with a thin sliver of cheese.

The chef sent out a complimentary off-the-menu risotto with onion and peas. It was sensational, creamy with a subtle hint of onion flavor. Truth be told, I ordinarily don’t care for onions, but Chef’s version of the dish was so tasty, almost porridge-like and surprisingly and unexpectedly perfect.

Next up was the beef stew which was incredibly tender, with a wine and shallot aftertaste. The broth had a mixture of peas and crispy asparagus spears.

The mashed potatoes served alongside were super creamy.

The fish of the day was sea bass which was served on a bed of sliced carrots and onions. The preparation of the fish was exceptional as it was tender and flaky and was quite a generous serving.

The rice pudding served with toasted nuts and salted caramel was my childhood dream reincarnated. Our server told us that just the week prior, during fashion week, Justin Timberlake came in to pick up the pudding to take back to his hotel room.

We were seated right next to the kitchen where we watched Chef crank out dish after dish, plating each one meticulously. He clearly was focused on the best quality ingredients as well as the importance of every dish being cooked properly and served at the appropriate temperature.  While we enjoyed our lunch, we observed him yelling at his staff to hasten their pace to get the food to each of the guests within a minute of him finishing up the final touches.  Our server told us that he had a flat upstairs where his ex-wife and child lived, and he took naps in between service.  Every morning, he went to the market and chose the freshest ingredients.  Upon hearing about Chef’s dedication to quality of ingredients and observing his passion for cooking, we decided to make Chez L’Ami Jean a regular stop for every upcoming visit to Paris.  

After our very rich and opulent lunch, we attempted to hail a taxi or grab an Uber. Unfortunately, it was drizzling, and our options were few and far between. We stopped at a bar to have a drink and regroup. Our bartender mentioned that there was a taxi stand down the block where we could catch a ride to head back to our condo.

After a short rest and shower, we headed out for the evening.

Unbeknownst to us, the pre-show dinner at Ginger which came with our Crazy Horse reservation was going to be the best part of our evening. We were provided a prix fixe menu with a few options.

Our starters were the egg rolls which were super crispy and flavorful and the tuna tartare which tasted fresh and savory.

Then for our entrees, my husband chose the fish which was quite flaky and moist, and I ordered the beef which was amazingly tender and was pure umami.

Each entree included a choice of one of three side options, but we paid a bit extra to get all three which were white rice sprinkled with sesame seeds drizzled with sesame oil, noodles stir fried in soy sauce and crisp and lightly seasoned veggies.

We ended our meal with a chocolate molten cake which was just beyond divine.

During dinner, we befriended a couple who were also heading to the theater. They were witnesses to the horrific display aka “show.” Our entrance fee included a bottle of champagne which was beyond awful and almost rancid. We weren’t sure if the “girls” on stage were actually live or if what we were watching was previously recorded footage which was projected onto the stage. There was nothing risqué or interesting about their performance.

At one point, I fell asleep and stayed asleep until the end of the show. At least I got some extra rest and was able to put myself out of misery.

When we arrived back in the Marais, we came upon a very packed and lively crowd. We did not realize that it was Pride, and all of the restaurants and bars in the Marais were busting at the seams. It was a site to behold, and we consider ourselves fortunate to have been at the right place at the right time. After spending a few minutes walking about watching the celebrations, we headed back to our condo and turned in for the evening.

The next day was a bit of a reprieve from the intense schedule from the days prior.

We decided to take a leisurely walk to Musee d’Orsay but on the way, we encountered a bicycle race along the Seine. It was difficult to pass to get to the other side of the street as there were so many participants.

Once inside the museum, we utilized the Rick Steves’ app for a self-guided audio tour of the museum.

It was larger than I remembered, but it was still by far my favorite of all museums in Paris as it housed my favorite impressionist painters.

After a few hours, we made our way to Cafe Campana which had changed its format since our first visit. It was no longer cafeteria style and instead transitioned into a sit-down dining area with servers.

We ordered the Caesar salad which was a very generous portion. There were large slices of chicken interspersed amongst the egg wedges, lettuce and cheese slivers.

My husband ordered a penne pasta with tomato sauce served with cheese slices drizzled with pesto sauce.

I ordered a chicken dish with Moroccan flavors. The rice had a toasted burnt almond taste interspersed with the moist chicken sitting in a tomato stew. We were served dinner rolls which unfortunately were tough as cardboard and inedible.

We decided to hop on a Batobus on our way back to our neighborhood. Pro-tip: Order the tickets online for a discount.

Unfortunately, the sun was blazing hot, and it was quite uncomfortable during our cruise, but it was nice to see the city from a different vantage point.

After a much-needed nap from the busy morning, we headed out to a Guy Savoy restaurant within walking distance called L’Atelier Maitre Albert. The restaurant was a bit dark and cavernous inside, but it seemed fairly popular and filled up quickly.

We were served with a complimentary amuse bouche starter of what may have been salami as well as room temperature carrot soup which seemed like an odd pairing. There was definitely a contrasting theme of salty vs mildly sweet. The rest of the dinner followed the same oddity of flavors.

The chicken liver salad was next, and it was served hot and smoky with a crisp, cold lettuce which was drizzled with light dressing.

My husband opted for a cold soup which appeared to be some kind of green vegetable puree. There were two slim square pieces of goat cheese at the bottom of the soup bowl. Both starters were quite good.

I ordered the chicken with potato gratin for dinner. The chicken was a bit dry though the skin was slightly crispy.

My favorite part of the dish was the dollop of mashed potatoes which were so creamy and rich that it almost tasted like a decadent smoky macaroni and cheese side dish.

My husband ordered the salmon which was excellent and a far better choice.

However, the buckwheat risotto he ordered on the side was grainy and set atop a mild mushroom broth which gave it a bit of moisture.

For dessert, we ordered a hot roasted peach tart with sorbet and a chocolate cream tart with raspberry sorbet. All in all, it was a fairly reasonably priced dinner but not one of the standouts of our trip.

We decided to walk off our dinner and head to Ile Saint-Louis. It’s the area where we stayed on our first trip to Paris.

I had read that the Moulin Rouge dancers frequented Aux Trois Mailletz during their time off so since it was fairly close, we headed over and stayed for a few songs, even witnessing a 50th birthday family dinner celebration.

Afterwards, we walked around and visited our former hotel before heading to get a bit of a late night scoop of ice cream from the famous Berthillon.

We polished it off while sitting on the banks of the Seine.

Monday took us on a different path as we headed to Place des Vosges and then Place de la Bastille. It was a long walk which was going to be rewarded with a stop at what David Lebovitz determined was the bakery which served the best croissant in all of Paris.

Unfortunately, I did not check Ble Sucre’s website until we were at the square and was horrified to learn after our nearly two hour walk that it was closed on Mondays. By this point, my husband was “hangry” and looking at the sky, it seemed as if rain was imminent.

In a panic, I quickly googled “best croissant” in the area and managed to find one that was a five-minute walk from our location. It ended up being a blessing in disguise as our happy accidental find became our favorite bakery in Paris.

Artisan Boulangerie Saint Antoine had a small outdoor dining area on its sidewalk which not every bakery had in Paris.

We ordered the chicken and mustard poppy seed baguette which had a mild flavor, was lightly dressed and beyond delicious. In addition, we also ordered the chocolat pistache escargot which I had seen in several YouTube videos as a “must order” and their version was insanely delicious and is now my favorite pastry. Lastly, we also ordered a croissant which was crisp on the outside but light and airy on the inside. It was truly the best 7.50 euros spent on the trip!

Luckily, the skies cleared by the time we were done with our mid-morning snack, and we headed off to the colorful Rue Cremiuex to take a few Instagrammable photos and proceeded to have some soothing, warming organic tea at the nearby Le Cremieux. After a quick respite, we headed to our lunch spot which was about a thirty-minute walk away.

Le Servan was also featured in Forbes’ best restaurants and was helmed by two half Filipino, half French sisters. One was the chef and the other ran front of house. The restaurant sat on the corner of a busy street with both indoor and outdoor seating. We opted to sit indoors as we had a view of the somewhat open kitchen.

We started off with the ravioli which was quite mild but had a bit of nuttiness from the peanuts interspersed throughout. It sat in a broth that was reminiscent of a wonton soup.

The Caesar salad had a bit of heat from the kimchi and was heavily dressed but it didn’t overpower the dish perhaps because of the crispy lardons and egg. The latter starter was definitely the perfect exemplification of a euro Asian fusion dish.

For our first entrée, we opted for the duck which was very dense and thick, almost like a steak. The skin was a bit too chewy so off it came. The green beans were in a Worcestershire, soy-based sauce much like an oyster sauce which added a bit of Asian flare to the traditional French dish.

The tuna, however, was the more exceptional of the two. It was also thick like a steak, but it was perfectly cooked and lean, set in a bed of white creamy sauce with a slightly sweet mango sesame mushroom drizzle. There was also a “filet” of mushroom served with it which was an interesting and successful pairing.

For dessert, we ordered the fruit tarte which had an overwhelmingly nutty taste. Alongside it was a sorbet which was quite sour.

Unfortunately, the second dessert, the rhubarb, was a complete miss as it was stringy and took a lot of effort to consume. Overall, we wouldn’t recommend or return to the restaurant. I am disappointed as I had read that it was David Chang’s favorite Asian restaurant in Paris, but perhaps too much time had passed since his initial visit and the quality had deteriorated. It felt as if the powers that be were trying too hard to create a hybrid of French and Asian dishes, and the effort just fell flat.

After our lunch, we hurried off to our first of two free walking tours. It was a sensational way to spend an hour and a half, to say the least, and we are now huge fans of free walking tours.

We learned quite a bit about the Marais, and how one part of it was swampland and that portion was designated for the Jews who lived in the city.

We loved walking in the narrow walkways and courtyards hearing how the area evolved over the decades.

Our guide was witty, charming and funny, the trifecta of a perfect guide.

It was quite a warm day so after our tour, we headed back home for a nap before we got ready for our evening.

Our dinner at Le Drouant was interesting. It was quite plush, elegant, upscale and refined. All the servers wore suits and ties, and the guests were dressed in casual upscale garb. It was the first restaurant we had been to which had a dedicated sommelier.

The food was brought on a tray by one individual along with the table’s server and a third individual served the plates of food to the guests.

All the glassware was Riedel crystal.

For our first starter, we had French peas with what appeared to be shredded lettuce akin to coleslaw.

The second dish was the asparagus which sat in a creamy white broth that had an egg and finely sliced chives flavor.

The main dish was the famous chicken, and it was sensational. The meat was moist and covered in a Worcestershire style sauce which had a hint of tarragon.

I was surprised at the quality as I was served a breast and wing which were both ordinarily dry and difficult to tenderize.

The risotto dish served alongside was creamy and cheesy and the mushrooms added a layer of earthiness.

My husband’s fish was tender and flaky and sat in a bed of creamy herbaceous sauce which almost tasted a bit like mayonnaise or yogurt.

For dessert, we were served a chocolate cake which was super rich and dense, drizzled with a light chocolate sauce.

The rice pudding was fine, but the kernels were chewy and seemed undercooked and not on the same quality or scale as what we had enjoyed at L’Ami Jean.

The last dessert was the meringue was light and fluffy and tart. We would recommend the starters and entrees, but the desserts were just subpar in comparison.

Our sixth day had us starting off in Montmarte.

We headed to the I Love You Wall, taking the obligatory Instagram photos before meeting up with the second free walking tour.

We were quite surprised at how large our group was as it made hearing the guide quite difficult.

Nevertheless, we trudged up the steep streets and listened to what we could catch, admiring the view and architecture from atop the hill. The group coincidentally had a stop at the I Love You Wall and that is where we were introduced to a second guide who we opted to follow in lieu of the original guide.

It turns out that our second Montmartre guide was the founder of the free walking tour in Paris and was a wealth of information.

Also, because the group was smaller and of course, he had the most experience, what he shared was more thought provoking and informative.

After our ninety-minute tour, I quickly took a photo by the carousel at the foot of the hill, and we rushed down the hill to our lunch reservation at the Instagrammable Pink Mamma. Despite having reservations, we still had to wait in line. There was also a line on the other side of the building for those without reservations.

Though we were about 15 minutes late, the hostess called our name and escorted us to the rooftop dining where I was hoping we would be seated. While there, we met a fellow American from the East Coast who was sitting to my right. She was supposed to have been back home, but her flight was cancelled so she somehow got a last-minute reservation and was enjoying a beautifully colorful lunch.

We started with the bresaola de boeuf punta d’anca which was a bit like beef carpaccio, shockingly delicious, lean but not overly salty. The stracciatella fumee was incredibly unique and foreign to us as we have never sampled the center of a burrata. It had a bit of black pepper and olive oil interspersed and was divine. The double trouble truffle pasta and pizza were sensational standouts which we would happily order again and again.

For dessert, we opted for the creme brûlée which was still lit when served to us and was just the perfect icing to a perfect meal.

Pink Mamma was our second favorite restaurant in Paris because of the rooftop dining, the divine food and our amazing server, Gabriel. He shared a bit about his background and his thoughts about Paris and France in general. Coincidentally, the hostess and Gabriel were a couple, lived together, didn’t own a car because between the gas and parking, it was cost prohibitive so they only took the metro and walked everywhere else. He mentioned that they are taxed at 75% so it was incredibly difficult to move outside of their socioeconomic level. Gabriel shared a few more anecdotes, but it was our time speaking with him and our new friend from the East Coast which added to our lunch experience and is frankly why we travel, because one cannot gain the intimate and personal insight without heading to faraway destinations.

We headed home, full and sleepy from the delicious carbo-loaded lunch. After a nap and shower, we walked to our dinner reservation at Bouillon Republique which was about twenty minutes away from our condo.

Bouillons are known from serving incredibly inexpensive meals, and ours was the only one at the time which took reservations.

Others typically had on average at least a one hour wait. The menu was extensive, akin to a Jerry’s Deli menu.

I started off with the egg appetizer which was creamy and savory served with a pinch of truffle.

We also shared the shrimp and avocado which was an odd but interesting pairing. It was very light dish which sat on a bed of greens.

Next was the soup which was essentially a dark broth with a few vegetable pieces.

My husband ordered the cod and was pleasantly surprised at how good and filling it was. It looked a bit like a fish pot pie with breadcrumbs on top.

My steak, however, was a bit tough and chewy which was a disappointment and lacked seasoning, but the fries served alongside were nice and crispy.

For dessert, I ordered the ice cream which was creamy, dense and delicious.

My husband ordered a brioche French toast served with a caramel syrup on top which took it up a notch. The Chantilly cream served with it had a bit of liqueur flavor.

The next day, we first headed out to Luxembourg Gardens and discovered an expansive oasis in the middle of the city.

We walked around a bit, witnessed a few people running, observed a few artists painting and drawing and as we walked out and saw that the park had both tennis and basketball courts for the sports minded enthusiasts.

Then we ventured off to the Rodin Museum. It was a bit of a walk but it gave us an opportunity to see yet another side of the city. We had pre-purchased tickets as it alleviated the time standing in lines.

Once we checked in with security, we were given our audio guides, and we made our way across the courtyard to the building to view the sculptures before heading back out to the gardens.

After our tour, we stopped for a quick bite of Caesar salad and carbonara at their café before hailing a cab to take us to my noon Cartier appointment.

This was the start of our second luxury haul. I was in the market for a tank watch and had a lovely salesperson. After the purchase was made, I saw that Hermes was across the street, so we sauntered on inside.

I realized once amidst a mass display of Birkins and Kellys that we were in the “mothership” store. Although it would have been nice to be offered one of the quota bags, I didn’t have the budget or the time to make that effort but instead was interested in acquiring a pair of leather shoes. We headed upstairs and were instructed to put our name on the list. It was about a 30–45-minute wait so we explored the store.

Walking around was an experience in and of itself.

We saw watches which were in the six-figure range.

The China patterns were stunningly beautiful and colorful. It was definitely a store where one could literally spend a fortune.

Finally, I received a text message that my turn was coming up so we returned to the shoe section.

I was offered a pair of black leather sandals which was the only pair in all of France that was in my size so of course I had to buy it.

After Hermes, we headed to Prada as my husband needed replacement sunglasses.

While he completed his purchase, I walked down the street to Christian Louboutin to buy my first pair of red soled shoes.

We took a break from shopping to visit L’Orangerie Museum. Luckily, they had a check in desk for all our bags, and we were able to whiz through the museum in about an hour.

We viewed Monet’s Water Lilies in several of their galleries as well as other works of art.

The last store we visited was about a twenty-minute walk from the museum. Repetto had a pair of ballerina flats on hold for me.

After I completed my purchase, we headed to a very late lunch at Sanukiya.

We started off with the karaage which was moist and not overly oily. The omelet was more savory than sweet compared with others we tasted during our time in Japan. The granules of rice were bigger than what we normally eat at home and had a slightly pickled flavor.

The udon broth was sweetened by the green onion, and the tempura was super light and crunchy. The pork slices which was super lean and tender. Our lunch was fine but to be honest, the staff wasn’t very friendly so we will likely not be returning.

After our late lunch, we tried for the next hour to hail a cab.

Unfortunately, it was rush hour and nobody was available so this was the day when we walked over eleven miles during our daytime outing. It left us no time to nap as we had to immediately get ready and get out the door to make our 6:45 p.m. Moulin Rouge reservation.

We were close to an hour late but much to our surprise, there was a line of other late comers outside the venue. After we were seated, we were treated to a live band with singers which was a very pleasant surprise. Moulin Rouge definitely had a much better ambiance than Crazy Horse.

We were promptly served water and dinner rolls and drink orders were taken.

For our prix fixe dinner, we started with the crab appetizer which was creamy, chilled and tasted fresh from the sea.

The salmon was salty, smoky and tender.

The pate alongside wasn’t anything exceptional. It had a doughy crust but the inside tasted a bit like salty spam. I definitely would have skipped this dish.

My chosen entrée was the veal which was super tender and savory.

My husband’s fish was in a mild pepper sauce.

The chocolate dessert served after dinner had a layer of raspberry which gave it a bit of tartness.

The ice cream had a bit of sourness to it. Bonus surprise: there was cake inside the ice cream!

The food was okay but nothing exciting. However, the dinner reservation gave us preferential seating for the show so it was passable. The show was one of the best I had ever seen. It had circus acts, topless cancan dancers, gymnastics, singers, snakes in water, Medusa, cleopatra, clowns, balancing acts, electric lights and was a visual and auditory feast. We left the theater completely enamored with the show and vowed to return but possibly dine at one of the better local restaurants on our next visit.

The next morning turned out to be a bit rainy and cold.

We ran to meet our guided tour at the Louvre, and luckily we were escorted underground where we could recover from the miserable weather.

It was our second visit to the museum, but because it was so overwhelming the first time, we opted to have a do-over with a guide which we highly recommend.

He highlighted certain paintings, escorted us away from the crowds, took us in early to see the Mona Lisa and then the Winged Victory aka Nike.

Our guide was a wealth of artistic knowledge and definitely helped us better appreciate the artwork and sculptures.

After our tour, we hopped in a taxi and arrived for our lunch a bit early. The first time we ate at Les Deux Magots, we were on a tight budget. During our prior visit, it was a pleasant day so we ate outside and sampled a few of the less expensive items on the menu. I didn’t recall enjoying whatever we ordered as they were pretty basic. This time, between being cold and wet and also in a better situation financially, we went for broke, unexpectedly, specifically on the 16 euro double Pierre Herme desserts.

We ordered a few vodka martinis to warm us up.

The asparagus starter had a bit of creamy chive dipping sauce.

My husband’s salmon was oily, flaky, crispy and perfectly grilled.

I ordered the burger which was savory with a perfectly cooked medium patty served with crispy fries.

Then for dessert, we opted for the vanilla tarte which was incredibly creamy with a dense and buttery crust.

Our second dessert had a flaky crispy crust and a light chocolate nutty middle. Both were perfect endings to our fantastic meal.

After lunch, the rain had cleared up so we walked to Saint Chapelle, arriving an hour before our 3 p.m. ticketed time. It was completely unorganized with three lines. The closest to the wall were those without tickets. The middle line had tickets on the half hour and the outer line had tickets on the hour. The randomness of which line was allowed to enter was incredibly frustrating. We weren’t admitted until a bit past our reservation time. It was our first visit to the church and though the stained-glass windows were impressive, we probably would prefer to visit for a music event in the evening as the experience would likely feel more ethereal.

After a brief rest, we headed out to a dinner venue in our neighborhood, Robert et Louise. It was a cute little tavern style restaurant which had a downstairs area. We were seated upstairs, on the main floor, next to the open kitchen.

I ordered the entrecôte which was lean and tasty though a bit tougher than what I normally prefer but for a rib eye, it was quite good.

My husband’s shrimp was plump and sweet.

The winner though was the mushroom omelet which was smoky and a tad bit herbaceous. With each of these plates, one can select two of the three side options. The green salad was mildly dressed with very fresh, crisp greens. The haricot verts or green beans were slim and perfectly cooked al dente. The potatoes had a smoky and slightly sweet flavor.

For dessert, we opted for the chocolate cake which looked a bit like a soufflé with a warm creamy middle. The scoop of ice cream and berry drizzle with cream made it a delicious well-rounded dessert.

The next morning took us on our first European train ride to Giverny to visit Monet’s home and water lilies. We met a mother and son from one of the northern central states and had a lovely conversation with them on the train, sharing our Parisian experiences thus far. Once we arrived at the station, we hopped on the bus for a quick ride to the neighborhood and then proceeded to get lost immediately after we headed out.

The signs weren’t quite clear as to which direction Monet’s house was located.

We eventually found our way and though our entrance ticket wasn’t for another few hours, we were admitted.

We started with his gardens and then meandered into the house.

It was quite impressive being in his studio and looking out at the windows, seeing in person where my favorite impressionist painter lived and how he lived. After the house tour, we made our way to the water lilies.

The pond was fairly expansive, and there was just something magical being there and seeing what captivated him and inspired hundreds of paintings.

After our visit, we headed to the nearby café, Les Nympheas, for lunch.

My husband ordered the fish which was flaky and lemony served with creamy potatoes.

My omelet was gooey and cheesy with perfectly crisp fries.

We shared the chicken salad which was moist and had what might have been an egg battered paprika panko bread crumb coating.

For dessert, we opted for the chocolate molten cake which was dense but had a warm creamy center.

We headed back and stopped off at L’as Du Fallafel for a quick snack. Despite all the hype, it was a huge disappointment.

We ordered the fallafel and a mixed schawarma plate. Both were bland and unexciting. We headed back for our afternoon rest before heading back out to dinner.

Our restaurant of choice, Le Train Bleu, had a magnificent interior, a bit like a museum with paintings on the ceilings in an expansive space.

We started with the salad which was fine but nothing out of the ordinary.

The lobster mac and cheese had a bit of pot pie top crust, was super creamy and savory.

The chicken dish had a bit of cheese crumble which added a layer of depth to it.

Our dessert of the lemon soufflé which had to be ordered at the start of the meal was completely worth the wait and the calories. It was eggy, light, frothy and unbelievably unique!! Combined with the thyme ice cream, it was a fantastic dessert combo.

On our last full day, we started off at Les Colonnes de Buren to take our Instagrammable black and white photos with the columns.

Then we headed back to 31 Rue Cambon to take a photo on Coco Chanel’s staircase leading up to her apartment which wasn’t accessible the week prior.

After the two photo shoots, we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe where we had tickets to head to the top. Somehow, we were offered a ride on the elevator rather than walking up the narrow, winding stairs, which was a nice added bonus since it was a very warm day.

Having been there before, we knew what to expect and with the huge crowd, we didn’t stay very long.

We stopped off at Longchamps as it was down the street. Having purchased quite a bit, we needed to buy an extra bag. In speaking with one of the managers, he mentioned that the Global Blue office was just up the street and would provide a faster and easier refund process if we had the time prior to departing Paris.

After the shopping detour, we hopped in a taxi to Les Ombres.

We spent some time perusing the menu and decided to choose the pre-fixe.

We were served a bite of a round cheese pastry which was tasty.

The second dish which was compliments of the chef was a lot saltier than we would normally consume, and to be honest, we weren’t quite sure what it was. The rest of the menu was fine.

The soup was nice and herbaceous but subtle.

Fish was flaky and moist.

The artichoke was smoky.

The dessert was creamy, nutty, frothy and fruity. The worst part was the blinding and oppressive heat.

I felt like I had heat stroke as the service took forever, and I was wearing a black top and with dark hair, all the heat was enveloped on the upper part of my body.

The only redeeming part of the visit was the photo that our server took of us in front of the Eiffel Tower that only dining patrons would have the ability to take.

We headed back home to rest, pack and recover before heading out to our final destination, the Seine dinner cruise.

In hindsight, I’m glad we booked the cruise and paid extra for the window seat, but it was really warm inside the boat, and it made the experience uncomfortable.

The food was fine but nothing special.

The best part though was seeing Parisians enjoy a warm evening dancing, picnicking and just spending time with their friends and family along the Seine.

I’m glad those moments in time were our parting sights of Paris which will forever have a special place in our hearts.

So to recap, here are our learnings from our extended visit to the city of lights. I would highly recommend guided tours over winging it on your own. Having done both, learning about the history, location and/or artwork from somebody knowledgeable is a better use of time and money. Also, sign up for free walking tours. It’s a cost-effective way to see the city, get a workout and meet some people while learning about a certain place and time. On the foodie front, just because the restaurant has a location in Paris, it doesn’t automatically mean that the food and experience will be divine.

On this recent trip, our dining experiences were a mixed bag. On the one hand, just because a meal is inexpensive does not automatically mean that it will rank low on the satisfaction scale. Same can be said of the reverse though in our case, one of the most expensive meals was the best dining experience on this trip. Lastly, on the luxury shopping front, depending on the currency exchange and the VAT refund policy, the lower European prices make the experience a glorious one, getting more bang for your buck. I paid a fraction of the cost for bags and accessories compared to buying them in Los Angeles which has a higher sales tax, and as a result, I have vowed to only shop in Europe for my high-end luxury purchases.

As the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea. I’m already planning our next trip for when Notre Dame reopens because who doesn’t want to see the bored gargoyle up close or go to a mass where you don’t understand one word that’s being said? I also currently have a very long list of restaurants to try and a growing wish list of luxury goodies. I hope this blog incentivized a few readers to finally take the plunge and head to this beautiful romantic city or perhaps schedule a return visit to explore more of its arrondissements. Merci pour votre temps!