N/Naka | A Travel Foodie's Journey

Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” season 1 introduced me to N/Naka several years ago. I loved hearing Nikki Nakayama’s tale of tenacity at breaking down her family’s gender bias and pushing through the male dominated culinary barriers, harnessing sheer force of grit and determination, something called keeshin in the Japanese culture. It was so moving listening to her narration of how she couldn’t allow herself to be perceived as “less than” by her family or her peers. She harnessed her intuitive and artistic nature to create a mood and a story through her cuisine, much like an artist painting a canvas with varying colors and contrasting textures, creating layers of depth and complexity.

Last year, the Michelin Guide returned to California, and I recalled seeing Instagram posts that N/Naka had been awarded two stars. It was such a huge feat for any restaurant to be granted the honor, but I silently acknowledged that my chances of obtaining a reservation were even more diminished by the well-earned accolade.

Then the coronavirus pandemic upended the world as we knew it. All superfluous enjoyment ceased. Everything became bleak and dark with no light at the end of the tunnel. Social media became my distraction and refuge.

I belonged to a Facebook group, Culver City foodies, and one member had posted that N/Naka was offering $38 bento boxes on Tock. I happened to have read his post a bit after 6 a.m. one Saturday morning and went on the site.

Though most reservations were waitlisted, I was able to get an early dinner pickup time a little over a week later.

I arrived 10 minutes early on my designated day, and surprisingly, others did as well. 5 p.m. was the first available reservation. I was second in line and an Asian woman wearing a mask and gloves had a clipboard, checking off each reservation as we arrived. She went into the nondescript gray building on the corner and emerged with plain brown paper bags containing our takeout, placing the bag inside each of our trunks, providing my first true curbside experience.

At first sight, it was evidenced that great care and consideration was given in the selection of items chosen for the bento box. Each compartment offered a dish which was beautifully and artfully displayed. The combination of offerings was like an orchestra with each instrument playing its part in a composition, creating a cohesive harmony for the palate.

As we slowly immersed ourselves in the experience, savoring the complexity and depth of flavor, we gradually hastened our pace through the edible presentation, reaching a fevered crescendo as we reached the pinnacle of the masterful composition before slowly and mindfully taking pause to enjoy the last few moments, ending on the last and final delicious note.

A few months have since passed, and takeout reservations are now available on Tock at 10 a.m. on Saturdays but have swiftly been sold out in 5 seconds or less. I was fortunate to have learned about the opportunity to partake and to have had great timing as it afforded us the opportunity to enjoy a memorable experience.

The bento box offering by N/Naka was an artful presentation of grace and refinement and reaffirms why Nikki Nakayama has been elevated to be deemed as “greater than” all others in the ultra competitive culinary scene of Los Angeles.