For Spring of 2023, I had initially planned on heading to Lisbon for our first holiday of the year. However, on one fateful weekday morning in fall of 2022, I started my day perusing social media and saw that British Airways was having a sale. I pretended to book a trip to London just to see what kind of discount was to be had with the intention of booking for the following year, but as I soon discovered, the British pound was the weakest it had been in a long while, and the discount offered by British Airways for two roundtrip fares, ground transportation to/from the airport and a nine day stay at a hotel in Kensington with breakfast could not be ignored so after a day of pondering and getting final approval from my husband, I booked our trip to London.
Fast forward six months later, we were finally on our way to the UK. Fortunately, our flight from Los Angeles to London was nonstop so it was a pretty seamless experience.
Once we landed, it didn’t take long to go through customs and retrieve our bags. It was the first time we ever made arrangements for a driver to pick us up from the airport and though there was a thirty-minute delay in locating us, it was a great perk to be personally attended to and before we knew it, we had arrived at The Rembrandt in Kensington.
Upon entering the lobby, we checked in and was told that our room wasn’t ready which we had anticipated since we arrived before the regular check-in time. After dropping off our bags, we headed out to an early lunch. We walked from our hotel for about 5 minutes, checking out other fairly empty restaurants before heading towards Honest Burger which I heard was one of the top casual burger joints in the area.
Much to my surprise, the restaurant was packed and a line was forming behind us which only got longer as time went on.
It was a fun, buzzy spot filled with both locals and tourists alike. The music was a mix of upbeat songs which was set to a decent volume. Service was spot on with the servers and busboys moving and grooving.
I ordered the South Ken which was fine but not spectacular. The beef seemed a bit dry and the tzatziki was a bit bland, lacking in lemon zest and dill flavor.
My husband’s pesto chicken sandwich was much better. The chicken was tender with a light creamy sauce that blended harmoniously with the chicken, and the bun was lightly toasted giving it a bit of texture. My husband’s slaw was also exceptional and unique as it had a pineapple zing to it.
After lunch, we meandered around the block and found our closest subway, buying a week’s worth of Oyster rides. Then we headed to a small market just outside the subway to buy water before heading back to the hotel.
Our room was on the third floor and was located in a quiet part of the hotel. Though the room was small, because the configuration was L-shaped, it provided a somewhat hidden area where we stored our luggage. The room came with an electric kettle to heat up water for our morning tea and coffee. It also had a mini bar which we didn’t even open as we had packed our own adult beverages and snacks. The bathroom was a decent size and had a tub. There were two small closets and a dresser as well as a desk and television.
After a quick nap, we got ready and headed out to dinner. I had made reservations for the newly opened Jacuzzi restaurant in Kensington after reading an article that my much beloved Pink Mamma chain was opening up a sister restaurant in London. A few other restaurants by the same chain were already in existence in London but Jacuzzi was the closest to our hotel.
It had started to drizzle on our walk to the train station and as I was on holiday, I failed to acknowledge that it was rush hour, and people were in a hurry to head home so the train station was packed and I got a bit discombobulated. I saw a train coming in and just hopped on, failing to take note where the train was heading which ended up with us being dropped off at the wrong location, resulting in a last-minute decision to contact an Uber while standing out in the pouring rain at Earl’s Court.
The hostess at Jacuzzi was accommodating and still honored our reservation, despite being 20 minutes late, and we were escorted upstairs to my requested dining area. The restaurant was kitschy but warm with an element of Greco Roman architecture and design.
The dining room had stunning pink chandeliers above the middle section of the room. Jacuzzi’s clientele fell in the same mold as its Parisian sister restaurant, Pink Mamma: upscale, educated, stylish and likely well-traveled.
We started with the beef carpaccio served with rocket which was quite good and drizzled with a nice dressing, served with herbs and cheese.
Our second starter, the endive salad, was a nice contrast as it was a bit bitter but softened by the balsamic vinegar and had a bit of crunch and texture from the walnuts.
Our third starter, which we had loved so much at Pink Mamma in Paris, was the burrata al tartufo but unfortunately, we were served the wrong order, the pistachio, which was a fail as it tasted like air, laden with fat grams and calories.
We asked for our original order which was slightly better as it had a bit of saltiness and earthiness in each bite.
The next dish to arrive was the truffle pasta which was beautifully presented in the cheese wheel, but I’m sad to say it paled in comparison to the Pink Mamma version.
Our tiramisu was a very generous serving and had a lovely bitter chocolate creamy bite. Overall, service was a bit spotty but we found out that it was our server’s third double shift, and he was likely tired. He comped us a few items after mistakenly serving us the wrong dish and as an apology for the extended wait times in between the dishes. Overall, it was an okay experience but the quality of the food and the services at Pink Mamma in Paris was far superior.
Day Two was our first breakfast at The Rembrandt.
They offered a nice savory buffet as well as a decent selection of beverages.
After breakfast, we headed to the Victoria and Albert Museum which was conveniently located across the street from our hotel.
The collection was expansive though we opted to only visit the first floor.
They had an array of art and sculpture from Europe, Asia and Africa.
One could definitely spend several days absorbing everything the museum had to offer.
Much like many other British museums, admission was free.
After our museum outing, we hopped on our first double decker bus using our Oyster card and grabbed front seats on the top deck as we headed east. It was great to have that vantage point as we rested our weary feet. We had to transfer for a quick ride on the tube before we arrived at our lunchtime destination, Borough Market. It was much smaller than I anticipated with fewer vendor stalls.
We came upon a stall where a woman was flipping an enormous amount of mushrooms over a giant wok, and it stopped me in my tracks.
Though we had lunch reservations, something intuitively told me that the mushroom risotto she offered would be right up our alley.
It was a spectacular earthy aromatic dish which was reasonably priced for the quality.
Then we meandered around a bit more before heading to our lunch destination. Lucky for me that I had enjoyed a pre-lunch treat as our actual lunch at Burger & Beyond was a disappointment.
I ordered a bougie burger which was mildly better in flavor than the prior day’s burger. However, the beef patty was incredibly dry. Dunking it in the steak sauce added the much-needed moisture and a savory oniony bite.
We also ordered a salad which had grated cheese and slightly oily dressing that blended harmoniously with the crispy slightly bitter veggies.
The banana peanut butter shake was thinner than shakes in the U.S. but had a good flavor.
One upside to the meal were the truffle tater tots which were fantastic. The mayo dressing on top was laced with an intense truffle infusion.
After lunch, we headed to the Millenium Bridge to observe the view and the sights.
The bridge and the adjacent area were filled with kids who had just ended their school day. Most were in various types of uniforms representing their schools or perhaps their grade levels in school. It was lovely to see the revelry with kids enjoying their schoolmates’ company outside of the hallowed halls of their chosen educational establishment.
After our bridge crossing, we headed back to our hotel where we took a much-needed nap. Somehow, we woke up 15-20 minutes late which resulted in us being late yet again for our dinner reservation.
Dishoom Kensington which was fairly close, only two train stops away, but like the day before, the trains were busy and full. This time, upon arriving at the restaurant, we lost our reservation, and we had to put our name on the waitlist.
We spent that time at the bar ordering our drinks and luckily were seated 20 minutes later.
The restaurant’s interior design was a subtle weaving of Art Deco and British sensibilities. Its interior was fairly large, with several sections of seating. We were seated in a booth to the side and had an expansive view of the dining room. Not one table was open and if it was, it was quickly cleaned and seated with new diners.
Our first starter was the chili cheese toast which was perfectly crisped and robust with a hot spicy flavor.
Next up were the okra fries were super unique. As our server Susannah pointed out, they were created for people who hate okra and that was definitely me. Just the mention of okra whisked me back to awful childhood memories of the slimy center but the preparation and presentation at Dishoom almost made me almost forget.
Their version ofchicken tikka was tender with a slight heat and a citrus peppery aftertaste. The daal on the basmati rice gave it a mealy spicy layer. The citrusy herbaceous potatoes were bumped a few flavor notches when dipped in the creamy dill dip. The veggies were perfectly al dente with a subtle layer of sourness. All in all, we had an amazing time at Dishoom, and we fully understood why it had such a great reputation.
The next morning brought us to the famous Bond Street for some luxury shopping.
Our first stop was Chanel where I had made an appointment with a sales associate but as luck would have it, he out sick that day, and I was assigned to another gentleman who, to be honest, initially appeared reticent to assist me, but when it appeared that I was a legitimate buyer, he was a bit more helpful.
Next stop was Hermes where my husband made his first purchase from the brand. I was also in search of sandals but they didn’t have my size and color in stock which ended up working out for the best because I ended up making a purchase at Mulberry which was a few minutes walking from Hermes.
I had been eyeing the Mini Alexa online as a possible everyday bag. It had reached its popularity over a decade ago when the brand initially collaborated with Alexa Chung in its design. When I laid eyes on the bag in store, I was immediately besotted and even though they only had the floor sample available, I still bought it.
After our morning shopping trip, we headed via subway to our lunch reservation at Aqua Shard. We got a bit lost as google maps steered us in the wrong direction but we eventually found our way. They had a security line which luckily wasn’t very long. Once we were led to the proper elevator, we headed up, walked over to the hostess table and were seated a few minutes later.
Our table was right by the window with a fantastic view of the river and the bridge.
The rolls were served warm and had a nice toasted exterior. The chilled butter gave it a bit of salty bite.
The venison carpaccio was refreshing as it had a piece of boysenberry but it also had a bit of earthiness from the hummus.
The salmon was exquisitely flavored with a bit of citrus and creaminess from the potato salad.
The chicken was pretty moist and tender despite it being a breast. The exterior of it had a subtle tomato aftertaste. The mealy beans also absorbed more of the tomato flavor but also had a bit of heat.
The gnocchi were earthy pillowy bites set atop a creamy mushroom broth.
The salad was arugula based and slightly bitter contrasted with the small refreshing pear bites.
The gingerbread cheesecake had a powerful flavor punch accented by the tartness cherry syrup base and toned down by the ginger mousse.
The pistachio was an interesting combo of pistachio mousse, crunchy cocoa crumble, moist cake and peanut brittle. Despite the great view and the beautifully presented food, service was painfully slow and truthfully our server disappeared for a certain period of time.
Also, after a certain point, sitting in front of the floor to ceiling window, it became unbearably hot and the lack of air conditioning circulating within the restaurant contributed to us being physically uncomfortable. I definitely would not recommend a full meal at the restaurant and would likely opt for another establishment in the building with a similar view for either drinks or one with better and more prompt meal service. Another option would be to dine at night when the temperature is more moderate.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out for dinner. I again underestimated the rush hour crowd at the tube and forgot from the prior two evenings how my router and Google maps failed me upon exiting the subway station. We were 20 minutes late the last two nights and 30 minutes our third night. Unlike the other 2 restaurants, we were turned away at Barrafina which had a strict 15-minute late policy.
As luck would have it, a kind young fellow overheard our plight and recommended a restaurant which also was fully booked for the evening but a few doors down we came upon Thai Pot which ended up being quite a find. We were told there would be a 5-minute wait but after a minute or two, we were promptly seated. Our entrees were served a mere 5 to 10 minutes after ordering.
The yellow curry was incredibly tender. The chicken was shredded and almost melted on the tongue.
The pad kee mao had a kick as it had chilis interspersed. The beef could have been more tender, but it went quite well with the noodles.
The stir-fried chicken with lemongrass was practically unadorned but also incredibly tender and the lemongrass gave it a citrus zing.
The double scoop coconut ice cream was just perfect and whimsical with the blue cotton candy!
We were just minutes away from the theater where we had tickets to the 8 p.m. performance of “Six.”
I had been looking forward to the performance which was 90 minutes straight through without intermission. I had purchased front row balcony seats through TodayTix a few months prior so I knew we had extra leg room and would have an unobstructed view of the stage from our nearly center row seats. What I did not anticipate was the lack of air conditioning which made it very difficult to stay awake after a heavy dinner and donned in winter clothing. What we also realized during the show was the humor and digs intertwined within the script and songs were regionally targeted.
We missed some of the British references as a result but overall, it was a really great musical and the singing and performances were spectacular.
Post musical, we headed to an adult venue called Platinum Lace. My husband was curious what that culture was like in London. Sadly for him, it was definitely a money grab. Any adult could enter and get drinks at the bar, but there was a fee to watch the show and each personal dance was £800 so that ended our evening very quickly though I did happen to meet a dancer from Romania and became Instagram friends with her by the end of the evening. She had a cute dog and shared some insight about her colleagues so it wasn’t a complete loss, at least not for me.
Day four took us to the Natural History Museum which was also in close proximity to our hotel. It was, by far, my favorite museum of all the ones we visited in London.
I had always been fascinated by dinosaurs and the time before man and how our earth came to be. There were a ton of school age children there for field trips so it was definitely a very lively scene. The rooms were expansive and the attention to detail and chronology was quite impressive. I would definitely visit that museum again in a heartbeat as I don’t think I had the opportunity to let it all sink in.
We headed out by bus to Harrods after our museum visit. It wasn’t what I expected. It was a fully interior mall with sections set aside for each luxury designer with various levels for ready to wear and shoes.
What was impressive was their food court.
Anything and everything you could want could be found there.
It reminded me of the underground food halls in Tokyo. We purchased a few souvenirs for friends and then headed out to lunch outside of the store in search of a more reasonably priced sit-down meal.
We didn’t have too far to go as I found a restaurant that was a mere two-minute walk away. San Carlo Cichetti was apparently quite popular with locals as every table was taken by prior reservations. They had a small front section with a few tables for walk-ins like ourselves. We were promptly greeted, seated and our server arrived to take our order.
The garlic bread with cheese arrived and one could mistake it for a sauce less pizza the way the crust had risen.
The salad was quite lovely, lightly dressed in olive oil, light salt and balsamic dressing.
The beef lasagne came out piping hot straight from the oven and was smoky, creamy, cheesy and savory.
The carbonara had a peppery, creamy, silky egg sauce akin to mac n cheese. The pork bits added a bit of saltiness.
The truffle cheddar fries were served hot with cheese and truffle oozing into each fry.
The sea bass presentation and flavor were equally exceptional. The herbs and the salt crust permeated into each crevice.
The filet had a gravy peppercorn coating and the middle was perfectly dark pink. It was incredibly lean and tender.
Our server served us a traditional accompaniment to coffee. I’m not sure the name but they’re lightly crisped and fried, sprinkled with powdered sugar.
The pistachio ice cream had a level of creaminess I’ve not tasted in a very very long time.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out to Mercato Metropolitano which was essentially a large food hall. It had previously been a church but was repurposed into a sustainable community market. We ordered a few items from various stalls.
Our starters from Steamy & Co. were dumplings which were silky and immersed in a chili oil which had a bit of heat.
The beef bao was super tender with a doughy outer layer.
The cacio e pepe I ordered from a handmade pasta stall was a generous portion with creamy pasta, crispy bacon and silky mushrooms.
From a third stall, Santo Grill & Wine, we ordered two entrees.
The first was were Italian sausages which were perfectly cooked and sliced in half. They had a nice balance of seasonings and salt. The side dish potatoes had a slightly crisped and salted peppered exterior.
The second entrée was a chicken dish which was grilled to a moist perfection. The accompanying veggies were lightly dressed in olive oil.
The next day was the day we broke all walking records by booking two nearly back-to-back 3- hour walking tours.
The morning tour took us to Buckingham Palace, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey.
We had a brief break to have a quick lunch at Horse & Guardsman which served pub food.
My husband ordered a salad and a sandwich and I opted for the fish and chips which were both fine but nothing special.
We then headed quickly for our afternoon tour which took us to the main part of the city of London.
Post tour, we took a quick break and had a drink at another pub during which a storm passed through the city. It was the strongest downpour we had ever experienced and though the subway wasn’t far, by the time we made it underground, we were completely soaked through so we headed back to the hotel for a brief rest and change of clothes.
By the time we were heading out to dinner, the storm had cleared.
We had reservations in Chinatown at Duck & Rice which was by far our favorite of all the restaurants we visited.
The miso soup was piping hot but sweet from the green onions.
The dumplings were nice and plump and tightly wrapped. They were famous for their duck and though neither my husband nor I were book duck eaters, it was a mandatory order.
We were incredibly surprised that the skin from the roasted duck and rice were both crispy and savory. The duck meat was super tender, moist and not greasy.
Combined with the wasabi prawns which were slightly hot and the Singapore noodles which had bihon noodles, it was the perfect melding of flavors and textures.
We ordered a chocolate coconut ice cream for dessert. It was creamy, light, refreshing with a coconut punch.
In addition, we also opted for the chocolate cake which was a combination of caramel toffee, chocolate, vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup. Both were insanely delicious.
After the diet busting meal, we decided to walk around Chinatown and the theater district and see some of the sights before heading back to the hotel.
Saturday morning took us to the famous Portobello Market near Notting Hill.
It was pretty much your regular combo antique flea market. It was quite crowded and definitely had a more urban feel than Kensington. We tried out a few food stalls as we were there around lunchtime.
I picked up a tasty beef/chicken adobo combo from a Filipino food stall and it only cost £9.
My husband ordered a shrimp paella from a nearby stall which had a strong saffron flavor but the rice was inconsistent, with some sections slightly undercooked and parts overcooked and mushy. We walked off our lunch a bit before taking the train back.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out for another walking tour.
This outing took us to the grittier part of the city where the Jack the Ripper murders occurred. We learned who the victims were and what their profession was at the time.
It was a low-income neighborhood with many homeless people on the streets.
Though that wasn’t apparent during our visit, it still had that dodgy feel, and it wouldn’t be my choice of location in the middle of the night.
We did, however, find the Spitalfields food hall, which had a few restaurants open late and willing to serve us. Brother Marcus was our dinner choice for the evening.
First out of the kitchen were the fries which were thick, peppered, piping hot and served with a sprinkling of feta cheese which melted onto the “chips.” Next to arrive was the pita which was served warm and was doughy with Zatar spices lightly sprinkled on top. We also ordered the prawns which were so hot that peeling the shell was a difficult endeavor, but they tasted amazing and had a hint of sweet chili oil.
The lamb though, stole the show. It was so flavorful, moist, perfectly seasoned and combined with the creamy sauce and bites of the “chips” it was the unequivocal winner.
We also ordered a chicken with orzo which was also on par with flavor and quality but had a slightly sweeter side as it had a tomato base. The orzo was silky and the chicken was juicy.
For dessert, we shared a baklava which had a similar upper pastry crust to the Filipino sans rival and the Parisian napoleon but slightly sweeter and syrupy. It had a nutty crispy flaky texture and combined with the cold creamy pistachio ice cream, it cut the honey sweetness in half making it an excellent pairing.
Sunday took us to mass at Westminster Abbey. We were originally going to head to St. Paul’s for service but we had a late start and Westminster Abbey was closer. As it was, we were a bit late and were seated in the back section with folding chairs. We were, however, able to receive communion which offered us a few of the Abbey. On television, the abbey seemed wider and more expansive. The pews on the sides were much closer to the aisle than I had anticipated. After the service, we had a brief conversation with one of the ministers. I mentioned that it was a very similar service to that of a Catholic mass. He said that they shared the same missal and read the same readings from the Bible. The difference was their ministers were allowed to marry and the monarch was the head of their church.
Post service, we headed for high tea at the Savoy. It took us a few attempts to figure out where the entrance was and I literally had to rewatch a YouTube episode and look at photos online to figure out how to enter the hotel.
Once we arrived, we were seated promptly and provided menus for the tea options.
After we were served our chosen teas, the first tray of food arrived. The chicken curry had a hint of sweetness from the raisin with mustard flavor. The ham sandwich was fine but rather plain. The egg salad was my favorite as it had a slightly salty and crispy bite. The mini bagel and lox with caviar was quite nice as well and teensy bit more to scale.
There was also a mini bagel with pesto which was good.
The “high tea” selection included an entree which was a lovely moist Scottish salmon, crispy skin side up, drizzled with a silky champagne sauce and alongside with a lovely buttered peas and kale combo.
The sweet part of tea had a nice assortment. We started off with the scones which were served with a lemon custard, strawberry jam and clotted cream. My raisin scone had a nice crispy top coating and dense center. The strawberry chocolate shortbread had a sharp tart flavor alongside the dense almost crispy outer layer. The rhubarb tarte was obviously tart but the fruit was tender. The chocolate bar had a crispy chocolate wafer underneath but the upper portion was dense and slightly creamy. The last dessert had a nutty toasted outer layer and a hollow middle. I wasn’t quite sure what it was, but just like everything else, it was quite good.
After tea, we headed out to meet a friend who coincidentally was in town. We hadn’t seen him since he moved out of Los Angeles years prior, and after living in New York for a bit, he had relocated to Tokyo so we made it a priority to catch up. We headed over to Waxy O’Connor’s for a drink and some snacks as well as some festive live entertainment.
After the excitement of the morning, we had a brief respite at the hotel before heading out for our first Sunday Roast. Sadly, by the time we arrived, they had run out of their famous roast but we still had an amazing meal at The Builders Arms.
We started with the nourish salad which had an abundance of broccoli, chickpeas, cucumber and red cabbage drizzled with a light herbal dressing.
I ordered the fish n chips which was by far thebest version of that entree I had ever eaten. The batter was unique as it was lighter and crispier. As you pierced your fork into it, you could hear the crunch. It was definitely an elevated version of something which seemed so simple.
My husband ordered a pot pie which had a crispy outer crust and a hot savory center and was served with a super dense and creamy mashed potatoes.
We also ordered a mac n cheese which had some panko style breadcrumbs on the top giving it a crunchy first bite but the rest of it was a creamy cheesy bowl of happiness.
The dessert of the evening was the sticky toffee pudding cake which was slightly sweet. The ice cream served with it subdued the sweetness and mellowed the flavor a bit.
The next day, we had booked a full day bus tour to Windsor Castle, Stonehenge and Bath.
Our first stop was Windsor Castle. When we arrived, there was already a very long line of people waiting to enter.
The area surrounding the castle seemed modest, but the grounds of the castle were fairly expansive with several large gothic structures including St. George’s Chapel which housed the tombs of both Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip. We were allowed to enter and pass by their resting place which felt very surreal.
After our visit to Windsor, we were whisked off to Stonehenge. Upon arrival, we encountered an incredibly long line to board the bus which took visitors to the monument. I had time to enter the on-site café, pick up a few items for lunch and finish eating while waiting to be escorted onto the bus. Sadly, by the time we reached the site, we literally had 15 minutes which we spent running around the monuments and taking a few snapshots to commemorate our time there. Then we once again had to stand in line to get back on the bus. In hindsight, we would have had more time had we just walked to the site rather than waiting for transportation.
The last stop was Bath which was a cute quaint town worth spending more than a few hours. We entered the museum which gave a very in-depth history of the city, the baths and who was allowed entrance when it was operational. We headed back to London just as the sun was starting to set.
Once back in the city, we walked over to Market Halls Victoria for some much-needed sustenance. We chose Gopals Corner which seemed very popular with the crowd dining that evening.
We were served a piping hot chicken roti which was savory, tender and packed with traditional Indonesian flavors. The prawns had a nice heat and the fried chicken was expertly fried maintaining its batter, and the rice with curry sauce rounded out the dish. The banana leaf platters came with two side dishes which were unrecognizable and forgettable.
The noodles were incredibly spicy.
On our last full day in London, our first outing was the Sky Garden for a bit of sightseeing followed by an exceptional lunch at Darwin Brasserie.
We were served a bread basket which was reminiscent of Cheesecake Factory’s whole wheat baguette. It was served warm and tasted a bit nutty.
We also ordered a soup which was slightly sweet with a hint of coconut.
My burger was sensational. The patty was moist, perfectly seasoned and combined with cheese, crispy bacon and sauce. It was delectable.
The green beans were perfectly al dente seasoned with a bit salt, garlic and shallots or possibly onions. The truffle and Parmesan fries were served crisp per my request, coated with cheese, herbs and truffle. The dip for the burger/fries was a combo of melted cheese and thousand island dressing.
My husband’s entrée was a lovely tender piece of chicken breast which was lightly seasoned.
After our decadent lunch, as the skies had turned gray and the temperatures dipped, we opted to take the Uber Boat and see the sights from the River Thames.
We took a roundtrip river cruise and then hopped off to head to Tate Britain for a bit of art and culture and to shield ourselves from the gloomy weather.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed off to our last dinner in London.
The Ivy was a great place to people watch as it broughtin a very attractive, well-heeled clientele, but it also welcomed individuals with strong academic backgrounds and their compelling insight on the country’s politics, financial and socioeconomic issues. Listening to the two gentlemen seated in the booth next to us was incredibly enlightening as it was a healthy open, honest and intelligent debate and conversation rooted in education, life experience and acute observation and awareness. But back to the food, we were served a bread basket with crusty and nutty offerings.
We ordered the must have cheese soufflé was unreal: smoky, piping hot, doughy, in a pool of cream akin to the consistency of a soft-boiled egg.
The tuna tartare was also quite good. It was moist and tender with a slight jalapeño kick.
The monkfish was good, served in a savory tomato- based sauce.
The coconut rice had actual slivers of coconut in it.
The peas and beans were really delicious and tasted healthy.
My husband’s shepherd’s pie with cheese was served piping hot, had a strong bold beef and cheese flavor with a light crust and thick gravy. While we were dining, we witnessed a marriage proposal which was the icing on our evening.
Our last meal in the UK the next day was at Giraffe at Heathrow airport where we had dined 18 years prior during our layover for our honeymoon.
We ordered a chicken teriyaki, chicken curry noodle dish, a grilled salmon and a side of fries. It was a lovely way to end our English dining experience.
For most of my life, I have always loved the idea of London. As a teen, I immersed myself in “Canterbury Tales” and “Pride & Prejudice.” As an adult, I was transported to London via “Four Weddings & A Funeral” and “Notting Hill” and learned about its history whilst watching “The Tudors.” I was thoroughly amused by the British wit and sarcasm of “Downton Abbey.”
And of course, I have watched every “Harry Potter” movie! However, there is nothing more memorable than walking the neighborhoods, taking the historical tours and delving deeper into the British roots and traditions.
We fell madly in love with London, its beautiful magnificent architecture, its culinary delights, and the pulsating energy of the city. Looking forward to returning in the near future!
Costa Rica is a beautiful lush country in Central America which offers a bounty of options for adrenaline junkies as well as laid back beachgoers. For our trip to this paradise, we chose the Pacific Ocean side in the region of Guanacaste as it offered a stunning backdrop of towering lush verdant mountains alongside a wide expanse of pristine beaches.
We opted to stay at a resort in Playa Flamingo which has since changed ownership and has been rebranded by the Margaritaville hotel chain: https://www.margaritavillebeachresortcostarica.com.
The beach resort had an on-site restaurant and bar, a large pool and swim-up bar and a small fitness center overlooking the pool. Initially, we were booked in one of the lower level rooms, but it was the rainy season, and the room was small, smelled dank and quite mildewy so we upgraded to one of the large ocean front view suites with a king bed.
It was a fantastic decision as the suite had a kitchenette with a large refrigerator and microwave as well as a sink and wet bar
adjoining a decent sized living room which led to a wraparound balcony overlooking the resort on one side and the beach on the other.
The bedroom was in a separate room facing the ocean which allowed for natural “white noise” from the waves crashing onto the shore.
Every morning, we ate our first meal at a quaint restaurant across the street from the resort called Marie’s: http://mariesrestaurantcostarica.com. The prices were reasonable and the food was quite good. It was also a great place to meet others staying in the area.
About a ten to fifteen minute beach walk south of the resort was Coco Loco: http://www.cocolococostarica.com which had an outdoor beachside restaurant. It had a pseudo beach club vibe with upbeat dance music playing in the background. Despite the rainy season, most of the tables were filled and as a result, the service was a bit slower, but the view and the fantastic food and drinks made up for the extended wait.
For a bit more high end dining, we ventured across the street from the resort to Angelina’s: https://www.angelinasplayaflamingo.com which specialized in Italian food and seafood.
The service was impeccable and the food and view from the second floor were pretty spectacular.
For all our excursions, we booked with Flamingo Adventures: https://flamingoadventures.com. Conveniently, they were also across the street, in an outdoor hut just steps away from Marie’s.
Sal, our guide for the week, was an older gentleman but quite lean and spry and participated in every adventure.
From the ATV up the mountains and back down to the beach, to the combined horseback riding and zipline adventure and
finally for whitewater rafting, rope swing and cliff diving, he was game and beyond fearless.
To ease the tension and muscle aches from all of our adventures, we took the time to pamper ourselves. I read about Beach Massage by Orfa on TripAdvisor and was happy to find she was set up on the beach just in front of our resort. At the time, a 90 minute massage cost each of us $55.
Being massaged beachside hearing the crashing of the waves seemed blissfully indulgent.
Another stress relieving venture came at the tailend of our horseback riding and ziplining adventure at Borinquen Resort: https://www.borinquenresort.com/gallery.php.
After a hair-raising few hours, the mud bath and hot springs were the perfect antidote for the rigorous and stressful excursion we had just endured and survived.
Costa Rica is a fantastic and budget friendly option to tropical destinations like Hawaii and Florida as the travel time is quite similar. Alaska and Delta now offer direct flights from Los Angeles to Liberia making it literally just one flight away. Our time on Playa Flamingo and Guanacaste definitely exceeded our expectations and stands out as one of our most exciting and memorable vacations. Costa Rica is the perfect spot for those willing and courageous enough to step outside of their comfort zone and head blindly to spine tingling adventures in the great outdoors. Pura Vida!
Fiji is one of those faraway romantic places one dreams of when bogged down the day-to-day grind of life, a reverie of a place to escape and unwind in the midst of tranquility. Little did I know how accurate my vision would be of our actual getaway.
Fiji comprises 300 islands in the South Pacific. Deciding which island or islands to visit proved a bit daunting. The international airport was on the main island and to reach other islands involved either smaller planes, boats or helicopters, all of which added a significant cost in time and money to the trip. I opted to search for accommodations on the main island and decided on Wananavu Resort on the sunny north shore. It was a 3 hour drive from the airport and combined with the 11 hour flight was the shortest in duration with respect to travel.
We arrived at Nadi airport in the wee hours of the morning, so we spent the ride to the resort catching up on some much needed rest and sleep.
Upon our arrival and after a brief check-in, we were ushered to the dining area for breakfast which was happily a traditional American fare of bacon, eggs, hash browns and pancakes.
Nourished and reenergized, we headed to our beachfront bure which was a fairly nice sized room.
It had a front outdoor porch and inside, there was a king sized bed with an air conditioning unit directly above it.
There was also a sitting area on the side of the room and the bathroom with a walk in shower was directly behind it, adjacent to the bedroom.
We immediately unpacked our bags, grabbed our swimsuits and headed to the water.
I was shocked at how remote and isolated our location was.
It was very quiet, and there was nobody on the beach or in the ocean. It was as if we had the entire resort to ourselves.
For the next week, we swam in the ocean as well as the pristine pool on-site,
practiced yoga on the front porch of our bure, worked out with our TRX in the room, walked on the beach,
had many refreshing drinks and were served beautifully presented food.
The resort provided an eclectic selection of meals with some being the traditional American fare intermingled with Indian inspired dishes, paying homage to the commingling of cultures on the island.
In addition to the resort activities, we partook in a few off-site excursions. My husband went on one full day dive trip and on the other days, we snorkeled, went on a picnic at a neighboring island and
took a tour of the outdoor farmers market.
We learned a bit about the Fijian culture and was shocked to hear that cannibalism was in fashion for some time and that Indians were once brought over as indentured servants to work the fields. After a period of time, the Indians were given their freedom, and they used that opportunity to start their lives and through hard work and perseverance, successfully surpassed the Fijians in monetary success, causing a bit of resentfulness amongst the natives.
All in all, Wananavu was a wonderful place to decompress and get off the grid. The lush landscaping, the rustic bure and the serenity of the resort provided us an opportunity to recharge our batteries.
We have very fond memories of the one place in our travels that gave us the freedom to live a slower pace of life by providing us an environment in which we could immerse ourselves in the beautiful, peaceful, natural surroundings that we have come to know as Wananavu.
Wananavu Resort
Volivoli Road
Sun Coast, Fiji
My first trip to Cancun was a present from my father to commemorate my college graduation. My roommates and I chose Club Med for our celebratory vacation, because it was a direct five hour flight from Los Angeles, was all-inclusive and reasonably priced. At the time, alcohol was excluded, but all the meals and activities were part of the package.
Being on a limited budget, we opted for many of their on-site offerings which included snorkeling, windsurfing and sailing lessons.
During that trip, we met a couple of guys from Los Angeles who had previously visited the resort and knew their way around the town. They led us to the bus stop which was accessible by way of the resort next door, and we spent a few nights on the strip, exploring restaurants and the local club scene.
The bar for all future vacations had been set.
Eight years later I returned for my second visit. By then, I was gainfully employed so I was able to afford other outings which were not financially feasible on my initial trip.
There were day trips to Coba and Chichen Itza as well as outings to Tulum and Xcaret.
Of the three Mayan ruins, Coba was the oldest of the archaeological sites built primarily with a network of stone paths and structures.
People moved into the area between 50 BC and 100 AD.
Hundreds of years later, around 600 AD, Chichen Itza was established.
In contrast to Coba, Chichen Itza was quite expansive and very well developed with distinct architectural styles.
The Mayan ruin of Tulum was the newest of the ruins estimated to have been constructed between 1200 and 1450 AD.
It was also the smallest of the three sites but had the best location, jutting above the turquoise seas of the Yucatan Peninsula.
My favorite excursion was my visit to the ecological park, Xcaret, where I was able to explore caves and stalagmites while floating on an underground river.
The park also offered a few cultural shows, giving an insight to the Mayan traditions and historical background.
One of my fondest memories was lounging on one of Xcaret’s beaches, ensconced in a hammock, being lulled to sleep by the warm rays of the sun, the hypnotic rhythm of the waves and the gentle caress of the breeze.
By my next two visits in 2009 and 2014, Club Med Cancun had segued from an adults only resort to a family-oriented destination.
As always, there were theme nights, ranging from White nights which required being garbed in all white attire, to Elegant which ranged from cocktail to formal attire, to “45,” which required guests to buy “45” Club Med t-shirts from the gift shop.
The significance of that number was the celebration of the 45th anniversary of Club Med which was a successful celebration, generating added revenue prompting management to continue the evening theme on a go forward basis.
With the segue from adults-only to families, there was definitely a shift in the entertainment at the resort.
Long gone were the days when dinners made way for heavy imbibing and hedonistic dance parties.
The resort switched gears and focused on comprehensive family entertainment which involved the staff rehearsing for hours, days and weeks at a time, much like for any Broadway or Cirque du Soleil performance.
The nights were replete with choreographed dances and musicals in the indoor theatre, skits at the makeshift outdoor theatre,
trapeze performances and family friendly beachside dance parties.
The resort still had the infamous foam parties, but in lieu of the late night indoor scantily clad adults writhing to the beats of the DJ’s mixes on-site, the party morphed into a daytime, G-rated BBQ party, surrounded by families on beach beds, guests playing beach volleyball and kids building sand castles.
I have visited Club Med Cancun at various stages of my life, but it was the place for many of my “firsts.” It was my first trip out of the country, my first vacation after graduating from college, the place where I learned to snorkel and where I had my first drink.
Of all the places I have been, Club Med Cancun stands out amongst the rest, and its turquoise seas, warm sandy beaches and clear blue skies will always have a special place in my heart.
Club Med Cancun
https://www.clubmed.us/r/Cancun-Yucatan/y?CMCID=SNN82930636056
It has been several years since my visit to Tokyo. There was much to see, but my time in the city was abridged. I was taken with Tokyo’s vastness and denseness which would seem overwhelming at first, but the hardscape of the buildings were countered and interspersed with massively lush and serene parks throughout the city.
My favorite memory was walking down one of the many paths of Hamarikyu Garden. The oppressive heat and humidity had given way to the clouds, and it had started to rain, gently, softly.
I meandered along a different path and listened as my sandals glided roughly across the gravel. I could hear the wind rustling and whistling through the field of wildflowers.
I couldn’t help but smile as the pace of the raindrops quickened into a light staccato creating a soprano melody as the drops from the sky merged with the garden’s lakes.
The pitter patter of the rain against the wooden boards of the bridge gave way to a more baritone sound, harmonizing with the soothing sounds of water, creating a setting and backdrop that was the perfect intermingling of peace and solitude. It was the first time I felt truly calm, at peace and centered in a place of contradiction, with the melding of the new and the old, the frenetic and the minimalist.
If there is a lesson to be learned, the sound of silence is what will help you find calm and peace regardless of where you are in place and time. For without the absence of sound, you cannot appreciate what is around you as the senseless chatter prevents you from being able to see clearly, hear succinctly or feel objectively. My experience at Hamarikyu Garden is a reflection of the balanced, serene and observant life that I aspire to lead.
In researching cooking schools in Chiang Mai, I sought to find the ones which offered five consecutive days of instruction with different menus. Chiang Mai Thai Cookery was the original cooking school in the city and was the only establishment to afford the luxury of 6 dishes daily totaling 30 for the 5 days. They also offered pickup and drop off from my location so that made it an easy choice.
The location of the cooking school was about 20 minutes from the city center in a beautiful serene gated community. The school had a large lot on which the colonial style building sat with its open air dining tables,
bookcases filled with regional cookbooks,
cooking stations for about 100 students and
2 instructional air conditioned classrooms in which the instructors demonstrated the preparation of each dish.
Behind the school was a vast garden,
a large pond with hundreds of koi fish
and an expansive lot which may eventually become a bed and breakfast or hotel of some sort to house the students of the school. Its location was remote, quiet and peaceful and the colonial structure had a restrained elegance and beauty.
What made my experience amazing was Pong, the chef/instructor who became a friend at the end of my time at the school. 
His classes were informative and funny. Pong’s English was as perfect as his culinary expertise. He had each student assist him in demonstrating the preparation of the dishes before we were sent off to cook on our own.
On my second day, I was literally the only student in the school so we had several hours of cooking together so I had the benefit of a one-on-one private cooking class from Pong.
He explained how and why everything needed to be cooked in a certain order and though I accidentally burnt garlic once or twice, which I personally didn’t mind as it gave the dish a smoky flavor, I knew it wasn’t proper technique because of Pong. He also shared how our fingers should be positioned when cutting so that we can cut quickly like those chefs we see on cooking competitions and not cut ourselves in the process.
His methods were very refined which can only come from a great deal of training and practice. He observed each student with a watchful eye and like a choreographer of a ballet, knew when each move should be executed and sometimes helped each student find their way.
I was amazed at how simple and yet intricate Thai cooking actually was. Some dishes required a few ingredients and minimal effort to make
while others were quite labor intensive and required nearly a dozen or more ingredients.
I loved every minute of my time at the school. It was my first foray into an experiential excursion while on vacation.
I learned so much more on this holiday and it definitely enhanced my visit to Chiang Mai.
I have zero hesitation recommending Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School as a Must Do during any trip to Chiang Mai.
The facilities are immaculate, the instruction is A-level quality and the abundance and variety of delicious Thai food makes for a comprehensive and immersive experience.
Many know Chiang Mai as Thailand’s Rose of the North. Just like its namesake, the city has many layers.
The outer layer displays its Buddhist history and influence evidenced by the nearly 300 wats sprinkled around the city integrating its faith and spirituality into its DNA.
Inherently, the city maintains a certain calmness, order and peace, helping quiet the mind, quelching inner voices, allowing doubt to subside and dissipate.
In this state of quiet and focus, one’s senses are allowed to become more acute.
The colors are more vivid and pronounced.
The sound of stillness permeates the air.
The air is filled with the smell of freshness and spice.
The complex layers of flavors meld together.
Connections are on a more intimate level.
Chiang Mai has been blessed with a lush and verdant topography and is replete with bountiful opportunities for quiet moments, reflection and solitude.
Walking through its many lush, secluded and landscaped paths is a reward in and of itself, providing stillness and serenity, interrupted only by the sound of the soft rustling of the leaves from a gentle warm breeze passing through the garden.
In the midst of the placidity, you can hear the flitting of the wings of the birds as they wander and explore the various branches and vines draping over and sheltering the rice paddies.
Harmonizing with their rhythmic beats and occasional chirps are the soothing sounds of the rippling water as the schools of koi swish and jump about in the nearby pond.
The wide expanse of open fields nestled in between lush and verdant hills give way to the Rose’s gentle giants, living their best lives, shielded from the cruelty and oppression of the outside world.
Chiang Mai is where one can escape, disconnect and find a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of life and get lost in her natural beauty, reset and recharge for the long road ahead.
Chiang Mai is known for its abundance of night markets throughout the city. It doesn’t take much effort to find one each night of the week.
There are also plenty of street vendors on the way to the actual markets so supply most definitely outweighs demand. However, unlike in other countries where vendors aggressively try to sell you their goods or wares, the vendors wait until they are approached by a potential buyer expressing his/her interest and even then, the vendors have a tendency to take a more laid back approach.
On our first full day in Chiang Mai, we walked 10 minutes north from our AirBnb to Anusarn Market which is best known for its abundant food options.
We opted for a seafood restaurant based on several reviews on TripAdvisor but unfortunately it was fairly mediocre and frankly forgettable.
However, we had a front row seat to the dancers of the Chiang Mai Cabaret soliciting customers. My husband decided to take a photo with them which resulted in a few good laughs.
After dinner, we walked around and saw a sign for the fish spa. At 120 baht it seemed like a very cheap thrill so we opted to try it. Not surprisingly, it was definitely memorable and noteworthy. It seemed hilariously ticklish and odd at first. After a while, we got used to the rhythmic nipping around our feet. The best part were the people we met who came by to chat with us. Having fish eating your dead skin was definitely a great conversation starter. We met an Irishman with whom we shared the story of my husband’s mistaken belief that he was of Sicilian descent only to discover from 23andMe that he was predominantly of British Irish descent. Our Irish companion on realizing he met a fellow countryman shared a few tales about the Motherland to incentivize him to come visit.
We ended our evening by stopping off to get my husband’s favorite dessert: mango sticky rice.
The next day, we opted to visit the famous Saturday Night Market on Wua Lai Road. It is literally one road with a few off-shoots for food vendors. We took a Grab, which is the equivalent of an Uber or Lyft, and were dropped off at one end of the market. There were some similar wares that we had seen the night before but a handful of a few unique ones. The street was busy but not oppressively packed.
We headed to the first food court and ordered a small bowl of the famous Khao Soi for 50 baht,
grilled fish for 200 baht
and a plate of pad Thai for 40 baht.
We ate our dinner while listening to a guitarist strum some tunes.
After listening to a few more melodic songs, we moved on and walked through the rest of the market.
We fell upon another more diverse food court.
There were 2 sushi roll stalls but one in particular was incredibly crowded as it was selling each piece for 10 baht. I’m not quite sure what the quality and freshness of the rolls since it was oppressively humid and it hardly seemed appropriate to have raw fish exposed to the elements. However, the excitement and intensity of the customers was palpable as they aggressively barked out their orders at a rapid pace and fevered pitch.
Moving on, we looked at the other food options and when we turned the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac of stalls, we couldn’t help but notice the shawarma stand. We ordered a quesadilla from the woman who was teaching her son how to prepare the dish. It was interesting to observe that the teen was being groomed to help or possibly take over the business. She explained each step, how to carve the meat, how much to place on the tortilla, how much cheese to add and how long to cook on each side. Hopefully, he took mental notes as the quesadilla was perfectly crisp on the outside and moist and gooey on the inside.
After our second dinner, we meandered to the other end of the market and opted to take a Tuk Tuk back to Anusarn to check out the Boy Blues Club.
It was located on the second floor above the market offering a nice view and a breeze to boot. The band was pretty good but the alcohol selection was lacking. Still it was a nice chill spot to hang out, relax and listen to some solid tunes.
The next day, we went to the famous Sunday Night Market. To say that market was overwhelming would be an understatement. It was massive with various offshoots on to other streets.
What is interesting about the Sunday market was it actually had some unique vendors, with original artwork, ornate and exquisite inexpensive bookmarks and cards. I enjoyed seeing what was available but one could seriously spend 6 hours before seeing everything that was available. We didn’t stay long as it looked like rain and the aisles were filling up with people, making the browsing and sightseeing less enjoyable by the minute so we retreated and headed back to our humble abode.
Chiang Mai Night Markets provide a place where one could definitely find and haggle for unique souvenirs to remind one of their time in Chiang Mai.
They’re also great for sampling local food at a relatively low price point.
For us, night markets are another entry point into the mindset of the people and what they found to be of value enough to sell to locals and tourists alike.
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When we first booked our trip to Chiang Mai, my husband proclaimed that he wanted to get a massage every single day. We were reminiscing about the 2 hour deep tissue oil massages we previously had at Oriental Massage Phuket and how those were likely the best massages we have ever had. For 2 hours, it was 1000 baht or roughly around $32. We had 3 massage treatments and paid our therapists the equivalent of $40. My husband’s massage therapist, Au, impressed my husband so much that he asked for her each time. The last time we visited, she was in the back, eating lunch but when she heard he was there for her, she stopped eating to accommodate him. I went through 2 different female therapists before I finally found Peuw who was just sensational.
All the petite women at Oriental Massage Phuket were freakishly strong and worked incredibly hard to work out whatever kinks we had. The setup for the massages there is unlike what we’ve grown accustomed to in the States. We hoofed it up 3 narrow flights of stairs to the 3rd floor where we walked into a room with a long wooden platform with several thin padded beds of sorts. Those were used for Thai massages which don’t involve disrobing and can be done in the open. Our treatment area had a few regular massage tables separated by loose drapes in between the tables. We undressed in front of the women as there was no dressing room and there weren’t additional sheets to use as cover up. We started our massages face down on the one sheet on the table and basically were exposed until we were draped with bath towels. I recall the therapists walking and kneeling on our backs at some point. When we eventually turned over, they covered us with the towels and for the most part, excluding the Thai stretch at the end, the massages were normal. The setting was definitely not a Burke Williams experience but the massages were a 100 times better because of the skill and remarkable strength of the women.
Jump forward 2 years and this time, we’re nearly 1000 miles north of Phuket in Chiang Mai. Our first massage experience was at Lila Massage which is an establishment that is dedicated to training and employing previously incarcerated women. We had just finished visiting the Cultural Arts Center when we walked out and saw Lila Massage across the street. We inquired about a 2 hour deep tissue oil massage which led to the receptionist making a call. She then led us out of the spa and advised us that their other location would able to accommodate oil massages. We walked past the square where The Three Kings monument is located.
When we arrived, there was a room full of female therapists standing and sitting around. My husband wanted an hour and a half deep tissue oil massage followed by 30 minutes of Thai stretching with their strongest therapist. What can only be described as fear or laziness, most of them rebuffed the offer to work on him. The woman behind the desk said they could not do both, that it’s one or the other. Having been spoiled by Au in Phuket who was initially hesitant but acquiesced, he insisted that it can be done, advised them that he’s a massage therapist and that the primary purpose for our trip was for him to attend Thai massage school. Not budging, the manager said that because of the oil, there was no way to stretch. I thought that clearly there was no creativity or drive to make money because the easy answer was to wipe us down and use towels or sheets to absorb the oil and stretch us. It almost felt like they weren’t interested in our business but desperate to get a massage on our first full day in Chiang Mai, we settled for a 2 hour hot oil massage which cost 1400 baht each.
Already, it was more expensive than what we had paid in Phuket and we weren’t getting exactly what we wanted. We started by being shown two chairs where our feet were washed and we were given house slippers. Just like in Phuket, we climbed up 3 flights of stairs but we were taken to a private room with 2 beds and its own bathroom. Unlike in Phuket, we were asked to wear what can only be described as black plastic undies and I was given a shower cap for my hair. The ladies left the room and let us undress in private and we started face down. Surprisingly, they started on our calves and then our hamstrings before making their way up our backs, skipping the glutes and hip areas completely. At a certain point, both women stopped massaging as they heard a torrential downpour of rain hit the roof of the spa. They continued and when we were flipped over, they once again began with the feet, ankles and thighs. As if that wasn’t odd and uncomfortable enough, my therapist worked on my entire chest and abdomen areas which are the forbidden zones in the U.S.
To say it was a weird massage would be an understatement. Their technique seemed a bit rough around the edges with a lack of bedside manners. My massage therapist also seemed a bit hostile. Still, I reminded myself that they were providing a service and were being given a second chance and an opportunity to assimilate into society. After our massage, we were given a cup of tea and a cookie.
Two days later, we went to The Home Massage and Spa which was a recommendation by a couple we met at the elephant sanctuary. I booked 2 2 hour massages for 1800 baht each and asked for pickup and drop off service which they offered inclusive of the price for the massage. The spa was a completely different environment than both Lila Massage locations. The Home Massage and Spa appeared to be on the first floor of a small pristine white colonial style boutique hotel.
Fronting it was a small pool and some lush landscaping but fronting that was the driveway and car park area.
After we registered, we were given hot tea and 2 cold washcloths to cool us off from the heat while our feet were washed before being given rattan house slippers. Then we were led into a dimly lit room with 2 beds and a full bathroom. The space was quite large and ornate. Again, we had the plastic underwear and shower cap. What was evident very early on was the technique and the proper draping etiquette of these women. The strokes were much more like the rhythmic strokes we’re used to but the order of which areas of the body was treated was very much in line with Lila. When the awkward front portion finally arrived, I had proper coverage and the periphery of the chest area was addressed rather than the entire section. As polished as the technique was, the beds were extraordinarily hard and by the end of the massage, my lower back was spasming. Also, just like the first set of therapists, only forearms, elbows and palms were used and no specific pressure points were addressed by their fingers. Again, the hips or glutes were ignored.
After our massage, we were given tea and small peanut butter and jelly shortbread cookies. Disappointed, my husband rejected the offering and whispered that he was done with massages for the trip.
Surprisingly, he changed his mind the last 4 hours we were in town, a week later. I had read about Perception Blind Massage on TripAdvisor and it was ranked higher than The Home Massage and Spa and both were in the top 10. I mentioned that the likelihood of us having to wear the plastic contraptions would likely be lessened since the therapists are blind and they may actually work on the Thai forbidden zones of glutes and hips which by American standards is less invasive than the chest and abdomen.
We took a Grab to their singular location and were greeted by a lovely receptionist who handed us a questionnaire about what areas we wanted addressed. We had not been asked previously so I took that as a positive sign in the right direction. We were given a cup of cold tea and while we drank it and had our feet washed, we were handed our individual massage therapist’s bio and story of how/why they became visually impaired or blind.
Already, we had an attachment and connection with our therapists before having actually met them. We were led to the rooms, walking past our therapists who were seated in chairs against the wall. The room we were led into was smaller and much darker than the two prior rooms but it was very tastefully decorated in a dark contemporary Thai decor. The adjoining bathroom was also dark and small.
Sadly, I was wrong about the plastic underwear and shower cap but the massage tables were padded and more comfortable than at our previous spa. My massage therapist started off with light rhythmic strokes and then she went in for the kill. She found knots in places I didn’t know existed. As she was pressing down on them, hearing my deep cleansing yoga breaths, she would say as she pressed down harder, “I’m sorry but it’s really tight.” I somehow suppressed the urge to scream but at certain points, I thought my eyes would bulge out of their sockets from the extreme effort to keep it all contained. Luckily, our therapists did use their fingers to address deep areas in our trapezius and also, I watched the blind male therapist work on my husband’s glutes while mine worked on the area between that and my lower back.
After the massage, we gave them each 200 baht and were given the same cold herbal tea as when we arrived as well as a peanut butter jelly shortbread cookie and an Oreo cookie.
Hours later, during our two separate flights home, we met two young women who also had massages on their last day. Both women coincidentally had volunteered for a non-profit and had been in the mountains for most of their time in Chiang Mai. The first lady we met went to a random massage place and asked for a full body massage. We exchanged the horror of the frontal areas being addressed but unbeknownst to her, the female massage therapist was having her treatment lead to a happy ending. Upon the shocking realization, she ended the massage abruptly, paid the full price and practically ran out the door. The next tale we heard was from a young girl, a freshman in college, who shared the massage room with a male friend/classmate of hers who she inadvertently was exposed to during the frontal part of the treatment. The takeaway is to research the establishment and if traveling with others, be mindful of potentially awkward situations and ask what the room setup will be.
Massages should make you feel less stressed after the experience. It starts with the setting, the friendliness of the staff, the connection with the therapists and the effectiveness of the technique. Of the three massages we received in Chiang Mai, Blind Perception was the clear winner for all the reasons that were important to us, and it made us feel that we had contributed to a very worthy organization and helped two amazing hardworking professional individuals.
Oriental Massage Phuket: http://orientalmassagephuket.com/
Lila Massage Ratchapakhinai and Lila Massage Prapokklao: http://www.chiangmaithaimassage.com/
The Home Massage and Spa: http://www.thehomemassageandspa.com/
Perception Blind Massage: http://www.perceptionblindmassage.com
My last morning of cooking school was bittersweet. It was my last full day in Chiang Mai and I had just gotten used to the routine. I felt like I was finally feeling enmeshed in the local life and its rhythms. I was looking forward to heading to the market and getting my daily sai oua from the petite Thai lady and possibly getting a bag of the coconut custard treats I had for the first time yesterday so my husband could also sample them. Alas, we were only at market for a pickup. I considered jumping out and heading to the vendors but I didn’t want to disrupt the flow. Luckily, Pon knew I would miss my daily routine and brought back a bag of sai oua for me to eat on the ride to the school.
When we arrived, our first task was to carve some vegetables.
Then we proceeded with the day’s menu:
Tom Jued – Clear soup with minced pork
Paw Pla Tord – Spring rolls
Gai Hor Bai Toey – Chicken in pandamus leaves
Gaeng Phed Ped Young – Red curry with roast duck
Gai Phad King – Chicken with ginger
Khao Neow Mamuang – Mango with sticky rice
My companions for my last day of class hailed from Paris, my favorite city. Throughout the day, we chatted about various subjects but at no point until the end of class when we were heading back did we actually exchange names. It’s interesting how much we collaborated, helped each other and exchanged information without needing to know specifics. We just had a friendly trusting symbiosis despite hailing from different parts of the world. I had studied French and they had studied English. Before parting ways, we exchanged contact information as my husband and I are planning on heading to Paris next summer and we wanted to get together during our time in town.
Cooking school was an amazing experience for me. I can’t cook everything I learned but I will definitely incorporate some of the techniques and will be recreating some of my favorite recipes when I get back.
I have zero hesitation recommending this particular cooking school but equally important, I thoroughly enjoyed spending time and getting to know each of my classmates and meeting people from all walks of life, from different parts of the U.S. and the world. What we all had in common is that we were looking to take ourselves out of our comfort zone and expand our horizons despite the challenges. Thank you to my classmates and to Ning but mostly to Pon who watched over my every move and with his special sense of humor and subtle sarcasm, helped me find my way.
Thai Cookery School
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