Tokyo is a city of contradiction. It holds its traditions, history and ancestors up to the highest pedestal while simultaneously embracing the creature comforts of the present. We spent a whirlwind 2 days touring the city and seeing the highlights Tokyo offered, wearing out our bodies as we traversed miles on foot, rail and sea, simultaneously engaging our minds, opening up our souls and filling our bellies with life altering food of Japan.
Our first day started at Sensoji Shrine, seeing people in prayer, watching people wash their hands and wave incense towards their bodies cleansing their aura, bodies and minds of any impurities. Our spiritual visit was immediately followed by some intensely crowded shopping at Nakamise, full of commercialized goods, tourist trappings and little trinkets for sale to prove that one visited this amazingly populated city.
Afterwards, we took to the sky and had our first traditional Japanese meal of sushi, sashimi and tempura at a high rise overlooking the Sumida River. Then we took to the sea and had a beautiful boat cruise reminiscent of the Seine River in Paris.
We docked and explored an earthly gift to the city of Tokyo, arriving at a beautiful respite from the chaotic and frenetic pace of the area. Hamarikyu Garden was expansive, lush and serene. I saw long expanses of greenery, fields of wildflowers, arched bridges over water. I felt the rain start to cool the air and heard the drops patter onto its lakes. The air cooled and I automatically began to unwind, my movements became more deliberate and purposeful, my breathing slowed and I began my introspection. Here was this amazingly beautiful and peaceful garden in the middle of an otherwise chaotic and frenetic city. The beauty of its simplicity helped me focus and see everything around me in a different light.
This reflective visit was followed by one of the most amazing sushi and sashimi experiences of my life. The freshness and quality of the seafood was unlike anything I had ever tasted. The shrimp sashimi had this amazing buttery quality to it which I did not ever think was possible. The various types of fresh fish was overwhelming. The roe and uni rolls exploded in my mouth and I was forever changed. As if one amazing dinner wasn’t enough, it was followed up with a less expensive but by no means inferior meal at Ramen Street. The garlic ramen soup was thick with chopped garlic nearly covering every millimeter of the top layer of the broth which complimented the plentiful and delicious thin ramen noodles. This exceptional simple and yet complexly flavored rustic meal was combined with the very unique curry rice which made the second meal on par with the flavor explosion of the more refined and restrained sushi we ate earlier in the evening.
Our second day began with a visit to Hanazonoinari Shrine which was deep in Ueno Park. The striking beauty of the Torii Gates will remain forever etched in my memory. It was followed with a visit to the zoo and the Metropolitan Museum, both also in Ueno Park.
We then headed to the Metropolitan Government Building to view the city from its free observatory decks. That was the first time I fully understood just how massive the city truly is. I developed a great respect for the city’s ability to catch up to other cities and countries at an accelerated pace, and in some instances, surpassing other countries with their technological advancements.
After seeing the expanse of the city, we visited the famous Piss Alley, full of history and inspiration despite its diminutive space and narrowness. We decided to just have a drink in a tiny, 8 seat bar which shockingly and coincidentally smelled like piss.
We then proceeded to Shibuya, first visiting the famous Tokyu Food Show which did not disappoint in its fresh display of seafood, sashimi, desserts and fully prepared meals for those busy working city people to quickly grab on their way home from work. Our next stop was the famous Shibuya Crossing which was a meh considering there were only tourists walking back and forth from one side of the street to another, using their selfie sticks and cellphones to capture a very touristy moment.
Our last venture was to find a top rated meal near this famous crossing. I believe we ended up having dinner at a Teppanyaki restaurant which was about 9 minutes away, walking. It was delicious and appeared to a busy spot for the young local millennials. The presentation was beautiful. The food wasn’t overly abundant in quantity but the quality was quite good. We left, bellies full and with money still in our wallets.
Tokyo was a surprise to me but has warmed my heart. I still have many questions but I will definitely be wanting to return to find those answers and to learn how to find my peace within its chaos.
We arrived at Narita Airport in the mid afternoon and everything seemed to move smoothly and quickly. After we collected our luggage is when things became a bit more challenging. My first order of business was to pick up my wifi router. I had printed a map of the pickup point and what the desk looked like. However, I didn’t know which side of the terminal I was at, whether I was on the north or south side. In my search of the router, I went from one end of the terminal to the exact opposite. It was not close and it was quite humid. While looking for my correct location, I tried two ATM machines. The first did not work. Turns out that I needed to locate the international ATM which I fortunately came upon going from the south wing to the north.
The next struggle was finding the correct Keisei Skyliner location. We initially had approached the desk on the arrival floor. For Skyliner, the representative motioned for us to go to her right, towards the other wing. We found the escalator near the international ATM and went to the basement. I had seen the YouTube videos for the two options, the red JR line to the right or the left Keisei option to the left. I approached a Keisei representative with an email printout of my ticket confirmation and she motioned for me to go to the other desk behind me which was called the Skyliner and Keisei Information Center. It was a semi-enclosed area with a small lobby and front desk with 2 representatives. Luckily, there was no line. I showed the Keisei rep my email printout and she proceeded to give us our Skyliner tickets and 72 hour pass. I asked for a Pasmo card, which is a preloaded subway card, so as not to have to buy tickets at the other train stations which are not part of the Tokyo metro line covered by the 72 hour pass. I had done a preliminary search of the other train lines we potentially could use and I knew it would be around 1100 yen so I padded it just in case and asked for it to be loaded with 1500 yen. The Pasmo card required an additional 500 deposit of which a portion could be returned at the end of the trip but I knew going into it that I would be keeping it as a souvenir. I walked away with 3 different sets of train tickets. Our Keisei rep motioned for us to turnaround and walk towards the other Keisei desk to catch our train which was leaving in 10 minutes.
We followed the Keisei sign until we reached the entrance. I knew to put the ticket in the slot and retrieve it on the other side as I walked through the stall. We were told to wait on platform 5 which we did. I looked at our tickets which said 6A, 6B, 6C. I saw we were standing in front of 6 so it seemed like the right location. As we entered the train, there was a luggage section where we rushed to place all of our large luggage and we found our seats and sat down. Everything seemed fine until a man tapped me on the shoulder and told me I was in his seat. We compared tickets. We were in the wrong car! Our tickets were for Car 1 and we were in Car 6. Panicked as we didn’t have much time, we grabbed our luggage and proceeded to try to go through the cars with all our luggage being wheeled quickly though the aisle. At a certain point, my husband and mother-in-law jumped out with the luggage in an effort to quickly wheel the 4 large pieces of luggage on more even ground. My heart was pounding, trying to figure out if they would make it back on before the train left the station. I continued to wheel my laptop case between the cars. Luckily, I saw them come back in onto the first car as I was approaching that area. With only seconds to spare before the train began to move, we stowed our luggage and proceeded to our correct seats, hearts still racing and minds still processing our new learnings.
Luckily, we were quickly distracted by the impressively fast and smooth train ride and the comfortable air conditioned cars. The landscape whizzing by us caught our attention as it was quite the opposite of the hardscape we were used to. Though the homes looked very similar to ours, the landscape was quite thick and lush and the grass was almost iridescent green hue. Occasionally, we would go past what may have been temples or shrines which had the unique Japanese architecture we had only seen in photos or in movies. Moments later, we were transported to the here and now by large signs and buildings for what seemed to be the equivalent of Target and other other box store chains.
I sensed that this was the first of many observations that would demonstrate the country’s dichotomy of the very old and traditional combined with the very new and young. The very fact that a high speed train was traversing through fields, urban areas and centuries old architecture was an example of the coexistence and commingling of the old and the new.
After a quick stop at Nippori, we finally arrived at Ueno. We grabbed our bags and I was shocked to realize my laptop case was missing. I couldn’t believe that somebody had stolen my case which had my work laptop and fairly new camera. Luckily, we asked an attendant and she quickly found that it had somehow rolled diagonally across the aisle to one of the spaces in front of a seat. Shaken but incredibly relieved, we walked away from the train platform and followed the sign to the Gold Ginza line. We came upon another train stall and tried to use our 72 hour subway pass. It didn’t work. I motioned for help. A nice non-English speaking Japanese man came over. I couldn’t understand what he was saying but thought he meant for us to use the Pasmo card which didn’t quite seem right. That also did not work. It took another minute or two for us to figure out that we needed our original Skyliner tickets to exit the station. This was another novel idea that was not part of our previous experience with trains in Los Angeles. Sadly, I did not remember where I placed our tickets as I was so preoccupied when we boarded the Skyliner. I had to sit down and go through my wallet twice and on still not being able to find them, I began panicking and taking my wallet apart. I found the two stubs meshed in with other pieces of paper and relieved, got up and proceeded to insert the ticket to exit the station.
The long walk to the Gold Ginza line helped reset me and regain my perspective. There was a section where we walked through a long winding tunnel. We observed some of the people who were walking alongside us. There was an older man who sadly appeared to have an advanced stage of scoliosis and also appeared to be knocked kneed, walking awkwardly with his family, his left hand pressed against his lower back to possibly help put pressure to help him walk. It saddened me to see because he was clearly in pain and I wondered if time or lack of money had caused the deformity and silently wished him well. Having been diagnosed with scoliosis as a child and luckily having the means to correct it in the very early stages, I thanked my lucky stars for my health and normal existence.
With a newfound appreciation for life and health, I regained my composure when we finally reached our destination. I had deliberately placed all my subway tickets in the little envelope that had our 72 hour subway pass so I easily found that in the pockets of my wallet.
After exiting, we were faced with having to take our luggage down the stairs. We had to do it in shifts but having witnessed the blessings of life, I think we were a bit calmer and unaffected at this slight inconvenience, we made it to the platform which I confirmed on my phone with the aid of my handy Ninja wifi router. We got on the train and knew that we were only on it for 2 stops.
We left the train and proceeded to the exit stall and another hurdle was upon us. Unfortunately, my mother had suffered the same fate as me attempting to exit the Skyliner and she struggled to find her subway pass. It helped me realize that we needed to pay attention more so than normal because we were out of our element. After realizing she had put the pass in her pocket, we finally made it out of the station. We had to take our luggage up the stairs. Once again, we took them up in shifts until we reached street level.
The next hurdle was trying to find a taxi to take us. I tried to use my taxi app but it wouldn’t allow me to be picked up at that location. I couldn’t figure out if it was a bad connection or pickups weren’t allowed. My mother-in-law and I separately asked street merchants for help. I went into a store and not surprisingly, the store attendant did not speak English. She basically motioned that for me to hail I taxi, I would simply have to wave one down. My mother-in-law was able to confirm that we were in the rights spot but just needed to move a few yards up the sidewalk where it would be easier for luggage to be loaded off the curb. Luckily a minute or two later we successfully hailed a cab. The hotel was about 4-5 blocks on the left which would have been an easy walk without any luggage. With it, in the humidity combined with travel exhaustion, it would have been impossible.
We arrived at the hotel and check-in was seamless. Our room, though small and narrow, had a fantastic view of Tokyo Skytree. Looking out, we saw the Asahi building with the gold curved statue atop its building but we also noticed a small children’s amusement park across the street. As the sun set and the skies got darker, the lights of Skytower and the amusement park shifted the city landscape to a more romantic vibe akin to seeing the Empire State Building or Eiffel Tower lit up against the night skies. It seemed like the perfect opportunity for a toast. I had packed some vodka which needed chilling. My husband went to the 20th floor to get 3 Dixie cups filled with ice for our first vodka drink in Tokyo. We toasted our anniversary, our life and our first day of learnings and gratitude.
We then proceeded to get ready for dinner on the 27th floor which also promised a magnificent view of Tokyo Skytree. I had previously reviewed the Teppanyaki menu and was wanting a filling wagyu steak dinner. Another hiccup to our day was when we were presented with prefixe menus, starting at the financial equivalent of $70 per person, upwards to $110. That was not at all what I wanted to eat so I found the menu I had researched online and showed it to our very sweet waitress who, not shockingly, did not speak a great deal of English. Sadly, the online menu was a lie as that was not offered any longer. Luckily, the restaurant also offered Chinese food which had an English menu so we quickly pivoted onto a more casual fare for our anniversary/first night meal in Tokyo. Fortunately everything was delicious but I was slightly amused that our first meal in Japan was a slightly more expensive version of the Chinese food we would ordinarily eat at home. During dinner, the exhaustion of our very long day began to set in and we called it a night.
I learned a lot in the short period of time we’ve been in Tokyo and very little of it has to do with the culture, though there is an incredible amount of politeness and deference that we normally would not experience back home. I was reminded to always be mindful and be in the moment especially in a new and different environment. Appreciate and embrace health. Always remain flexible and open to experiencing what was previously not planned as there may be better surprises waiting on the other side.
And with that, it is time to turn in so I can be rested for a full day of adventure, lots of delicious eats and hopefully more learnings about the city, its people and their traditions. Good night Tokyo!
We’ve all been there. We’re trying to make the best of a long haul flight only to be in a seat where a young kid with a non-observant parent allows the constant potentially inadvertent kicking of your seat to occur for 11 hours. At other times, you’ll have large groups of people traveling together, excitedly and loudly talking, preventing you from enjoying your movie or keeping you from sleeping. Then there’s the unfortunate incidents of travelers with motion sickness which sets the flight attendants rushing back and forth up and down the aisles to attend to them and to help clean up any accidents. I have found ways over the years to cocoon myself from all these external distractions by bringing my must-have items with me on the plane.
1) Eye mask – It’s a signal to my brain to literally shut out the world and rest. Getting sleep during the plane right is pivotal to being alert and aware when getting off the plane to head to immigration, customs, finding your luggage and venturing out to a world unknown to you. I have a thick black silky one I use at home and on my travels. It’s luxuriously silky and much thicker and wider than the ones provided by airlines.
2) A pair of ear plugs (plus a spare) – This is key to muffling out any noises and commotion occurring during the trip. Sometimes ear plugs fall out during sleep, get buried in your seat or your neighbor’s blanket or perhaps land somewhere on the floor. It’s best to have a backup pair to ensure your maximum peace and comfort.
3) Airplane socks – These don’t have to be the compression socks unless you need them. They can be some fuzzy comfortable socks that you can put on after taking off your shoes so you can relax, settle in and get some rest. They sell these at the airport so they’re easy to find.
4) Your own headphones – All long haul airlines will provide you a pair of headphones for watching movies and listening to music but sometimes the quality is not great and doesn’t quite shut out the sounds around you, thereby distracting you from your choice of entertainment.
5) A wrap – I have a black pashmina wrap I bought from Costco years ago when it was stylish. I take it with me on all my plane rides because it acts as a blanket that’s breathable unlike the blankets which are provided to you. In addition, it can function as an accessory on your journey if your shoulders need to be covered for any sacred sites that may require it so it can have a dual purpose.
6) Your own pillows – Most everybody has a travel neck pillow but I also bring a regular neckroll pillow that I combine with the airline’s pillow to support my lower back. Depending on the airline, the comfort of the seats may be questionable. If it’s a long journey, it’s best to be as comfortable as possible. This pillow is small enough so it’s not cumbersome to bring and can be placed under your knee to help ease the tension on your back. The added bonus is you have your own personal pillow for your neck or knees for your stay.
7) Sanitizing wipes – These are much lighter and space efficient than the liquid type and can be used for wiping anything from your hands to surfaces on the plane. Plus they serve as hand wipes after a sticky or messy meal.
Hope my travel hacks have inspired you to find ways to make your journey more pleasant and enjoyable. Bon voyage and safe travels!
EYE MASK:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSO1D9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EAR PLUGS:
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-5-Pair-Vending-Pack/dp/B00IT5MHWW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1533384716&sr=8-7&keywords=ear+plugs
AIRPLANE SOCKS
https://www.amazon.com/Slaxry-Unisex-Winter-Comfortable-Cashmere/dp/B01M33FFN1/ref=pd_sim_193_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M33FFN1&pd_rd_r=M6PCWSPPSGTZ4TBDJ8DN&pd_rd_w=LYTNs&pd_rd_wg=Dc5TQ&psc=1&refRID=M6PCWSPPSGTZ4TBDJ8DN
HEADPHONES:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVN1P29/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
WRAP:
https://www.amazon.com/REEMONDE-Womens-Super-Colors-Pashmina/dp/B01L7INGOU/ref=sr_1_8?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1533385016&sr=1-8&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=Black+pashmina+wrap
NECKROLL PILLOW:
https://www.amazon.com/Newpoint-100-Percent-Cotton-Neckroll-Pillow/dp/B001TH8M9O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533384384&sr=8-3&keywords=White+neck+pillow
SANITIZING WIPES:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ23FA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Even though vacations are supposed to be the optimum opportunity for us to completely disengage and immerse ourselves in the planned getaway that was months or even years in the making, sometimes real life, either work, family or just the sheer need to stay engaged gets the better of us and we need options.
I have found that resorts in isolated foreign lands may promise wifi but actually lack the full wireless experience we rely on at home. I’ve been to Europe, Mexico and Asia and have sadly had issues when checking and downloading heavy emails let alone streaming on my iPad. I decided that this trip to Japan would be a different and a hopefully more effective and successful venture on that front.
The hotel we are staying at has wifi but it does not guarantee the speed, the safety or the effectiveness of the service. I give them credit for their honesty. It forced me to research other options. I reviewed the questions and comments on TripAdvisor. I also read quite a few blogs of people who were in Tokyo and Japan and ascertained that most picked up wifi routers or SIM cards for their wifi options.
I initially read quite a few travel bloggers talk about Tep Wireless and how seamless their connections were and how it truly was unlimited in data. Since I’m planning on being wifi dependent for 11 days, the total rental or purchase for my device would have been approximately $160.
The next option was finding a local Japanese wifi router. There were quite a few options but none sounded like overwhelming endorsements. In my travel search for places to visit, I ran across Voyagin. I clicked around their site and noted that they offered a 30% discount on wifi routers, specifically for Ninja. I read up on the brand and was surprised there were quite a few very positive reviews.
My last option was contacting my cell phone carrier, which in this case is Verizon Wireless. For $10 per day on an as used basis, I would be able to use my phone as I normally would and Verizon claims I will not have any issues connecting.
I also recently discovered that T-Mobile has a global plan so there is no additional cost to utilize service of the standard kind in foreign lands.
Between the wifi at the hotel and on the cruise as safety nets, I opted for Ninja through Voyagin with the Travel Pass as a backup so that I have 3 possible layers of connectivity from which to utilize. As Phoebe on “Friends” said, “it’s just good sense to backup your backup.” ☺️
Tep Wireless: https://mbsy.co/nrlch
Voyagin: https://www.govoyagin.com/activities/japan-tokyo-ninja-wifi-router-rental-service-in-japan/8762?acode=ggfoodie
Planning our first visit to Tokyo started a bit over a year ago when I booked a 7 day cruise with Princess. I honestly procrastinated with the details except for choosing a hotel in Tokyo which was stressful enough. I had no idea about neighborhoods and it all seemed overwhelming so I went on TripAdvisor and selected the options I wanted during our stay. Breakfast being included was a priority because I didn’t want to roam the streets when I was possibly jetlagged and confused. I also wanted air conditioning as I had read that Tokyo can be oppressive in August, a view of the city and possibly a fitness center to work off all the food I was planning on eating. I got 3 out of the 4 by choosing Asakusa View Hotel. It wasn’t the cheapest but also not the most expensive and come to find out months later, it’s in the older part of the city and close to a few of the sites we wanted to see.
Jump forward to May of this year and that’s when the real planning began. As I write this, we are two weeks away from leaving, I’ve read and bookmarked 90 articles on my iPad which doesn’t include the separate ones on my iPhone. I’ve watched countless hours of YouTube episodes about Tokyo. I’ve downloaded and deleted a few recommended apps. I’m finally nearly done with the planning and here’s a summary of our upcoming trip:
Staying connected:
I ordered the Ninja WiFi from GoVoyagin which offered a 30% discount for our 11 day stay in Japan. The Ninja WiFi at $69.57 for 11 days seems to be the most cost effective way for me to make sure I can receive and send work emails with attachments on my phone, iPad and laptop. I’ll also be transferring photos from my Canon to my phone which will indefinitely take forever and a day using the included WiFi at the hotel which does not guarantee its speed or effectiveness.
In addition, I called Verizon and got the $10/day Travel Pass which is only activated on usage. It is more costly and therefore is a backup plan should the router not work or be ineffective when needed.
Tokyo itinerary:
First day:
Dinner with a view of Tokyo Skytree at Makie which is a French teppanyaki restaurant at our hotel. As the first night will be our 13th wedding anniversary, I wanted to go someplace special with a view. I originally wanted to go to Tokyo Skytree’s restaurant thinking the entrance ticket would be included in the cost of the splurge dinner but it wasn’t and their last reservation was too early.
First full day:
Nakamise Shopping Street (street food and souvenirs)
Senso-jo Temple
Lunch at Mochizuki
Tokyo Boat Cruise to Hamarikyu Gardens
Tea ceremony at Hamarikyu Gardens
Dinner at Sushi Katsura
Walk along Sumida River and view
Kachidoka Bridge lit up at night
Second full day:
Ueno garden, shrines and outdoor market
Tokyo Metropolitan Government building for cheap cafeteria lunch at Tocho
Shokuin Shokudo and a free entrance to the observatory deck
Snack at Takashimaya department store basement food court and rooftop garden dining
Meiji Shrine
Dinner and drinks at Piss Alley
Shibuya Crossing
This list will likely shift once we are in town but after likely 50 hours of research and planning, becoming more intimidated with the complexity of the train system, my lack of understanding of the language and the realization that Tokyo is a huge sprawling city, I honed in on what was important to my family and me: seeing the sites, eating great food at a reasonable price and getting a feel of everyday life in Tokyo.
Ninja WiFi Router:
https://www.govoyagin.com/activities/japan-tokyo-ninja-wifi-router-rental-service-in-japan/8762
Asakusa View Hotel:
https://www.viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/english/
Makie:
https://www.viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/english/restaurants/thedining/
Nakamise:
http://asakusa-nakamise.jp/e-index.html
Senso-ji Shrine:
Mochizuki:
http://レストランアラスカ.jp/mochizuki/lunch.html
Tokyo Cruise:
https://www.suijobus.co.jp/en/
Hama-rikyu Gardens:
http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/index.html
Sushi Katsura:
https://m.yelp.com/biz/すし–かつら–中央区
Kachidoki Bridge:
https://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/short-story-of-kachidoki-bridge-tokyo/8092
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building:
http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/english/offices/observat.html
Tocho Shokuin Shokudo:
Takashimaya:
https://www.takashimaya.co.jp/shinjuku/store_information/
http://global.restaurants-park.jp/en/guide/
Meiji Shrine
Travel is transformative. There is no better education than an immersion in a culture very different from one’s own. It forces you to evaluate your preconceived notions and reassess any unconscious biases you may have had. The one rudimentary road to this self-discovery is through the senses of touch, smell and taste. Eating the fruits and enjoying the gifts of another culture through their hospitality and participating in their traditions creates a metamorphosis in one’s mind and soul. It is that life altering experience that one builds upon with each journey creating a higher sense of wisdom and understanding that permeates to one’s everyday existence.
I had not returned to the Philippines since 1985. My last memories of it were dark and negative. It didn’t help that my last trip was in August, the dreary, muggy, rainy season. I was a teenager at the time and I was forbidden to wander off on my own lest some terrible tragedy befall me. I can only imagine what that may have been now that I’m much older. After my last visit, I had decided that I had left the Philippines and all of Asia forever, never to return or partake in anything related to the culture.
It wasn’t until 2011 when Ching He Huang’s show premiered on Cooking Channel that I became remotely interested in preparing Asian food at home. Once I began implementing some of the basic tenets of Asian cuisine, a whole world opened up and I intuitively was able to improvise quite a bit and produce restaurant quality food. The “a-ha” moment came after I cooked up a simple shrimp and broccoli noodle dish which tasted unctuous but was not oily or greasy like at the local Americanized Asian restaurants. That’s when I realized that I had inherent knowledge and possessed skills which had traversed generations and had been ingrained in me. It inspired me to continue to experiment on the cooking front, and I allowed myself to watch shows featuring Asia. When Anthony Bourdain filmed an episode in Manila, I was a bit unnerved because it was his stamp of approval and if he had gone, it was no longer controversial for me to return. By the end of the episode, he had convinced me to venture back and rediscover my roots.
This past Christmas, I went to Boracay, a beautiful but financially challenged tourist spot an hour flight from Manila. The people who inhabited the island exhibited a very severe dichotomy of extreme poverty contrasted with a strong will to survive and persevere. I remember seeing beach vendors selling hats, sunglasses and tours from the crack of dawn til the wee hours of the night every single day, with the hot sun bearing down on them as they walked up and down the beach on the blistering sand and into the pitch black of the evening, being rejected by one person after another with very little success and yet they continued on their path. I appreciated and gained a deep respect for their tenacity, their perseverance and conviction.
Thank you, Boracay, for opening my eyes, heart and mind.
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After 3 flights, 6 TSA/customs lines, 6 airline meals, 2 foreign country airport snacks and 26 hours later, we finally reached our destination! Feeling dizzy and bedraggled, we checked into our resort. After a quick unpacking and request for ice, we unpacked our home purchased vodka, toasted and headed on our way. I had read about Smoke Resto on many travelers’ blogs and it was highly rated on TripAdvisor. The challenge was finding it. After asking several people at D’Mall, we found it down an alleyway by a grocery store where we later purchased large bottles of water for our room. As the bloggers reported, it’s very understated but every table was filled which is always a good sign. We waited about 10 minutes and scored a seat at a four top on the left hand side of the restaurant, against the wall, next to a small door heading up to the restaurant’s supply room. Equally important to note is this table sits directly in front of the fan. The chairs were either rustic wooden and backless or plastic chairs with backs. None of that mattered because the vibe was pulsating. As exhausted as we were, the excitement of those who were waiting to order or be served their food was palpable. Those who were eating were in the throes of slurping, devouring and inhaling what was in front of them with complete disregard for grace and your standard social decorum at any fine dining restaurants. At the start of the meal, you’re given a fork and spoon each separately wrapped with one thin napkin. There are small square cocktail sized napkins on the table. We ordered the chicken noodle soup to start which reminded me of the flavors of my childhood. The broth had a sweet tangy taste perhaps flavored with some ginger or tamarind. The chunks of chicken with thin noodles mixed with thinly sliced carrots, cut green beans and cabbage mixed with the tongue burning smoking hot broth was truly a magical potion for our weary bones. It gave us the energy to stay upright for the rest of our meal. We ordered a grilled fish and grilled chicken which both came with rice which were coincidentally or deliberately shaped like a perfect shapedly breast, nipple tip included. Of the two, the thigh and leg combo were a bit more moist, likely as a result of the BBQ sauce marinading the meat. My favorite was the garlic butter shrimp. It came with a dozen perfectly flavored bites of heaven. I found myself going primitive and using my hand to twist off the heads to suck down the meat and trying to quickly devour each and every bite I could separate from its skin. In hindsight, we probably should have ordered two of those dishes. It was that amazing! The chicken noodle soup and the two grilled entrees were each around 250 and the shrimp was 450. We also ordered 2 bottles of water and 3 beers. On the drinks front, they have bottled water, soda and beer only. The grand total for dinner with our usual 20% American tip was $30! Bottled beers were each 50 pesos ($1) and I don’t even drink beer but for a buck, why the hell not?! Unbelievable!! After that, we got one big jug of water and 2 medium sized bottles of water for our room for 150 pesos. We ended the evening by having one of the Smoke Resto guys who happened to be hanging out on the street help us find a reasonably priced tricycle which cost 100 pesos and we tipped our guy 40 pesos. The tricycle ride was an adventurer in and of itself. For those not in the know, it is a 100 cc motorcycle on the left powering a small open air carriage with covered cushioned seat for two alongside the rider and two long cushioned bench seats facing each other, parallel to the rider which could each seat two, totaling six riders on that tricycle. It felt like Mr. Toad’s wild ride, maneuvering the chaotic street traffic and wet roads of Boracay. All in all, it was a fantastic and adventurous start to our trip.
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Grace Gambin
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