After an action packed three days, our fourth day provided a much needed break from a strict schedule. As luck would have it, an old acquaintance was in town so we decided to have an impromptu meet-up for lunch.
Before our lunch date, we quickly dashed into Cafe Giang for some much needed jolt of caffeine.
The cafe was busting at the seams. It didn’t appear there was one available table but one cleared out shortly after we arrived. There was one server/busboy in our area and he was taking everybody’s orders at once without writing any of it down.
A few minutes later our egg cream coffees arrived. Although the cafe is one of the original shops, the egg cream coffee we had earlier in the week tasted very similar. Both were equally rich, creamy and silky with a bit of bitterness from the coffee, balancing out the two textures and opposing flavors.
After our coffee break, we met up with our friends for lunch at Porte D’Amman. The restaurant was in a beautiful French style building and had split level dining. We were seated upstairs as we had a larger party.
Our group started with two orders of sampler platters. It had a nice mix of spring rolls, ribs, toasted sesame shrimp, grapefruit salad and a few other tasty treats we couldn’t quite identify. Then we ordered a few items from the set lunch menu.
My husband ordered a crab soup and seafood platter while I ordered an egg roll starter and beef kabob.
All the food was delicious and the presentation was exceptional.
After we parted ways, we headed to a massage appointment at Spas Hanoi which was followed by a shopping trip to Hanoi’s Silk Street. Our lunch companion Jackie had mentioned a store called Airashi which was one of the first silk stores we came upon on Hang Gai.
I hadn’t done any preliminary research on the store, but I quickly found a sleeveless dress that had an A-line cut that was flattering. I also found a beautiful blouse so after a little less than thirty minutes, I walked out with $88 worth of silk clothing which was an incredible bargain compared to U.S. prices.
We turned in early as we had to pack for our next adventure which was a three day, two night cruise over Halong Bay.
More to come!
We spent most of our third day in Vietnam outside of Hanoi, in the city of Ninh Binh. We joined an AirBnb tour for the day trip to the Ha Long Bay on land which was located about 2 1/2 hours away from the city.
There was a rest stop about 1 1/2 hours away where we had a mid-morning snack of banh mi and fries before arriving at our first destination at the ancient city of Hoa Lu where we visited the grounds of two temples for two kings, King Dinh and King Le.
Hoa Lu
We had a buffet lunch shortly thereafter and for those who were so inclined, a 30 minute bike ride deep in the countryside was offered.
We then walked to the Tam Coc wharf for what I would call a life altering excursion. Each boat carried the rower and two to three guests. The rowers used their feet to paddle their oars saving their backs from undue and repetitive stress.
During the 90 minute boat ride, we were in the midst of some of the most breathtaking majestic sights of Mother Nature’s bounty. The stunning lush green landscape and the towering limestone mountains hovering over the marsh rice fields and the serene river embodied what I imagine Xanadu would be like as it is a place that quiets the mind and stills the heart.
For the duration of our time on the river, we observed the rural surroundings and slow paced rhythm while enjoying the sound of the gentle lapping of the water as the oars gently glided us down the waterway. It truly was an idyllic respite and helped us appreciate the simplicity of life.
Day 2 started out with a hunt for breakfast. We wandered the streets looking at our options. There was a restaurant next door but it was dark with one guy sitting inside smoking, and it looked a bit sketchy. We saw two ladies across the street setting up a beef pho stall which I’m sure would have been lovely but we were looking for comforts of home.
We found it at the Ann Hanoi Hotel, diagonal from our AirBnb. They had a beautiful breakfast buffet with a made-to-order omelet stand. It was about $15 per person, but we definitely got our money’s worth. Even though it may seem like a splurge by Vietnam’s standards, it was definitely a great way to start the day. They opened at 6:30 a.m. and had a very attentive and gracious staff.
Breakfast was followed by an all day AirBnb tour to the Hanoi’s top landmarks. We learned so much about the city and its history and have a much better understanding of the Vietnamese people as a result.
We started off at the Tran Quoc Pagoda. Our guide, Michael, mentioned that over 70% of Vietnamese people weren’t affiliated with any particular religion but most followed the guidelines of Buddhism, believed in reincarnation and the laws of karma. This was evidenced by all the offerings placed on the altars and the sprinkling of people who came by to worship.
Then we headed off to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. That was definitely a unique experience. It was the first time we understood and realized we were in a socialist country. We weren’t allowed to bring large bags, food or water, and cell phones and cameras were not permitted to be used while inside the building. It had not dawned on us just how sacred Ho Chi Minh was and still is to the Vietnamese people. The property was heavily guarded and all visitors had to remain orderly and in their single file lines. There was complete silence as we entered the building and walked around Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body at his final resting place. Michael had shared Ho Chi Minh‘s story about his humble roots and his meteoric rise to political power. Most attribute the unification of the Vietnamese people to Ho Chi Minh which explained why decades after his death, he is still revered and admired.
After a brief stop to a lacquer shop to learn about the process and entice us to buy their wares, we visited the Museum of Ethnology, learning a bit about the 54 different cultures that comprise the Vietnamese people. There appeared to be a cross mingling of Chinese, Malaysian and Filipino people along with the indigenous people of the lands and as such, the language and traditions blended over the centuries. It was another reminder that Vietnam, just like many countries in the world, is a melting pot.
Egg rolls
Next up was lunch at a local restaurant. We had several delicious courses, starting with a bowl of soup, salad, fish, chicken and vegetables. We finished off our meal with the Vietnamese specialty, egg cream. It served both as a terrific rich, silky dessert combined with a slightly bitter and very strong Vietnamese coffee.
We headed to the Temple of Literature after lunch. It served as the first university in Vietnam and it was considered an honor and privilege to attend.
The grounds were beautiful and serene, slightly ethereal.
Our last stop was the small temple on Hoan Kiem Lake. We crossed the beautiful Huc Bridge to reach the shrine which had a majestic 180 degree view of the lake.
After our day tour, we had a nice casual dinner at Noodle & Roll. Our dinner options included a nice array of dishes with a bit of American comfort thrown into the mix.
Then we had our first massage in Vietnam. Spas Hanoi’s deep tissue massage is not for the faint of heart. The diminutive stature of the female masseuses are deceptive as they are freakishly strong. The excruciating pain from the intense pressure exerted without any relief during the 90 minute massage is a true testament to the saying that looks can be deceiving.
The massage started with the therapist walking on my back, bearing down all 110 pounds of her on top of me. I felt and heard cracks in each section of my back. The treatment was so intense that I sounded like a woman in the last hour of labor, breathing deeply, wincing in pain but pushing through, knowing that a reward would be had on the other side.
I was quite disoriented for a bit afterwards until we meandered to Hoan Kiem Lake where the loud, pulsating DJ beats at the Saturday night performance resuscitated and invigorated us along with the energy of the hordes of people dancing, tightly packed and jumping in unison to the rhythm of the music, reminiscent of Times Square on New Year’s Eve. After a song or two, we wandered off to walk a bit through the weekend Hanoi Night Market before finally calling it a night.
It was a busy and eventful day to say the least. We immersed ourselves in the many faces of Hanoi, revealed to us through her history, monuments, people and cuisine. To say Hanoi is multilayered would be an understatement. She has a different approach to every situation and can easily adapt to any and all scenarios showing her flexibility and endurance, standing the true test of time.
Despite being an ardent foodie, I have never taken a food tour so I decided that Hanoi would be the perfect opportunity to find some hidden gems. Luna, our Airbnb guide, made the evening jaunt worthwhile. First of all, the tour cost $0 so we were already ahead, but we paid for the cost of our food and left our guide a bit of a tip at the end.
We started out sampling some delicious and piping hot pork eggrolls and pork cutlets from a street vendor.
Then we headed off to try some sticky rice,
followed by a sampling of Vietnamese papaya salad and ending the food tour with an off-the beaten path beef pho.
The latter didn’t even have a storefront sign but did have a sign hanging off a tree and was located literally inside a family’s home.
The family previously had a stall but the government forced them to shutter so they have made do and hold a pop-up in their home with limited hours, from 3-7 p.m., serving only one speciality dish that they have clearly perfected.
To get to their establishment, you have to find the sign first and then enter a narrow pathway and climb up very narrow cement stairs which wind upwards. Then you end up on the landing and make a sharp right, taking a few steps before arriving at the restaurant. As in all Asian homes, you’re required to remove your shoes before entering.
We sat down on the low level plastic stools and a few minutes later our pho arrived. The broth was perfectly clear but distilled with hours upon hours of layers of beef essence. The pieces of beef were tender and the noodles were perfectly cooked. There were some herbs in the pho but they weren’t overwhelming. As we were the last customers, I saw the staff heading with our bowls to the kitchen which was in another room, where they were hand washing all of the plates and silverware.
Every square inch was used economically and efficiently which just goes to prove that one doesn’t need a state of the art kitchen to create an amazing dish.
What I particularly enjoyed about our evening, aside from the delicious and unique food of Hanoi, was hearing some of the stories about the norms in the city. There are certain jobs and responsibilities relegated only to women. Regardless of income, the government rations how much each person is able to buy to eat. The reason why storefront businesses are very narrow, deep and tall is property taxation is based on width and not height. Several families and generations of families live within one room, sometimes sharing one bathroom amongst them all with some homes not equipped with any bathrooms.
All of that seems shocking having been raised in the U.S. but it’s just a part of life in Vietnam, and there is a great and overwhelming sense of optimism and ambition amongst the people of Hanoi. If I had to describe the rhythm of the city, it’s a bustling metropolis in the heart of a young country that is readying and positioning itself to be a contender in the world of commercialism.
I just hope that in Hanoi’s valiant efforts to modernize, that it doesn’t turn its back on its roots, history and its values. Only time will tell.
In researching cooking schools in Chiang Mai, I sought to find the ones which offered five consecutive days of instruction with different menus. Chiang Mai Thai Cookery was the original cooking school in the city and was the only establishment to afford the luxury of 6 dishes daily totaling 30 for the 5 days. They also offered pickup and drop off from my location so that made it an easy choice.
The location of the cooking school was about 20 minutes from the city center in a beautiful serene gated community. The school had a large lot on which the colonial style building sat with its open air dining tables,
bookcases filled with regional cookbooks,
cooking stations for about 100 students and
2 instructional air conditioned classrooms in which the instructors demonstrated the preparation of each dish.
Behind the school was a vast garden,
a large pond with hundreds of koi fish
and an expansive lot which may eventually become a bed and breakfast or hotel of some sort to house the students of the school. Its location was remote, quiet and peaceful and the colonial structure had a restrained elegance and beauty.
What made my experience amazing was Pong, the chef/instructor who became a friend at the end of my time at the school. 
His classes were informative and funny. Pong’s English was as perfect as his culinary expertise. He had each student assist him in demonstrating the preparation of the dishes before we were sent off to cook on our own.
On my second day, I was literally the only student in the school so we had several hours of cooking together so I had the benefit of a one-on-one private cooking class from Pong.
He explained how and why everything needed to be cooked in a certain order and though I accidentally burnt garlic once or twice, which I personally didn’t mind as it gave the dish a smoky flavor, I knew it wasn’t proper technique because of Pong. He also shared how our fingers should be positioned when cutting so that we can cut quickly like those chefs we see on cooking competitions and not cut ourselves in the process.
His methods were very refined which can only come from a great deal of training and practice. He observed each student with a watchful eye and like a choreographer of a ballet, knew when each move should be executed and sometimes helped each student find their way.
I was amazed at how simple and yet intricate Thai cooking actually was. Some dishes required a few ingredients and minimal effort to make
while others were quite labor intensive and required nearly a dozen or more ingredients.
I loved every minute of my time at the school. It was my first foray into an experiential excursion while on vacation.
I learned so much more on this holiday and it definitely enhanced my visit to Chiang Mai.
I have zero hesitation recommending Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School as a Must Do during any trip to Chiang Mai.
The facilities are immaculate, the instruction is A-level quality and the abundance and variety of delicious Thai food makes for a comprehensive and immersive experience.
Many know Chiang Mai as Thailand’s Rose of the North. Just like its namesake, the city has many layers.
The outer layer displays its Buddhist history and influence evidenced by the nearly 300 wats sprinkled around the city integrating its faith and spirituality into its DNA.
Inherently, the city maintains a certain calmness, order and peace, helping quiet the mind, quelching inner voices, allowing doubt to subside and dissipate.
In this state of quiet and focus, one’s senses are allowed to become more acute.
The colors are more vivid and pronounced.
The sound of stillness permeates the air.
The air is filled with the smell of freshness and spice.
The complex layers of flavors meld together.
Connections are on a more intimate level.
Chiang Mai has been blessed with a lush and verdant topography and is replete with bountiful opportunities for quiet moments, reflection and solitude.
Walking through its many lush, secluded and landscaped paths is a reward in and of itself, providing stillness and serenity, interrupted only by the sound of the soft rustling of the leaves from a gentle warm breeze passing through the garden.
In the midst of the placidity, you can hear the flitting of the wings of the birds as they wander and explore the various branches and vines draping over and sheltering the rice paddies.
Harmonizing with their rhythmic beats and occasional chirps are the soothing sounds of the rippling water as the schools of koi swish and jump about in the nearby pond.
The wide expanse of open fields nestled in between lush and verdant hills give way to the Rose’s gentle giants, living their best lives, shielded from the cruelty and oppression of the outside world.
Chiang Mai is where one can escape, disconnect and find a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of life and get lost in her natural beauty, reset and recharge for the long road ahead.
Chiang Mai is known for its abundance of night markets throughout the city. It doesn’t take much effort to find one each night of the week.
There are also plenty of street vendors on the way to the actual markets so supply most definitely outweighs demand. However, unlike in other countries where vendors aggressively try to sell you their goods or wares, the vendors wait until they are approached by a potential buyer expressing his/her interest and even then, the vendors have a tendency to take a more laid back approach.
On our first full day in Chiang Mai, we walked 10 minutes north from our AirBnb to Anusarn Market which is best known for its abundant food options.
We opted for a seafood restaurant based on several reviews on TripAdvisor but unfortunately it was fairly mediocre and frankly forgettable.
However, we had a front row seat to the dancers of the Chiang Mai Cabaret soliciting customers. My husband decided to take a photo with them which resulted in a few good laughs.
After dinner, we walked around and saw a sign for the fish spa. At 120 baht it seemed like a very cheap thrill so we opted to try it. Not surprisingly, it was definitely memorable and noteworthy. It seemed hilariously ticklish and odd at first. After a while, we got used to the rhythmic nipping around our feet. The best part were the people we met who came by to chat with us. Having fish eating your dead skin was definitely a great conversation starter. We met an Irishman with whom we shared the story of my husband’s mistaken belief that he was of Sicilian descent only to discover from 23andMe that he was predominantly of British Irish descent. Our Irish companion on realizing he met a fellow countryman shared a few tales about the Motherland to incentivize him to come visit.
We ended our evening by stopping off to get my husband’s favorite dessert: mango sticky rice.
The next day, we opted to visit the famous Saturday Night Market on Wua Lai Road. It is literally one road with a few off-shoots for food vendors. We took a Grab, which is the equivalent of an Uber or Lyft, and were dropped off at one end of the market. There were some similar wares that we had seen the night before but a handful of a few unique ones. The street was busy but not oppressively packed.
We headed to the first food court and ordered a small bowl of the famous Khao Soi for 50 baht,
grilled fish for 200 baht
and a plate of pad Thai for 40 baht.
We ate our dinner while listening to a guitarist strum some tunes.
After listening to a few more melodic songs, we moved on and walked through the rest of the market.
We fell upon another more diverse food court.
There were 2 sushi roll stalls but one in particular was incredibly crowded as it was selling each piece for 10 baht. I’m not quite sure what the quality and freshness of the rolls since it was oppressively humid and it hardly seemed appropriate to have raw fish exposed to the elements. However, the excitement and intensity of the customers was palpable as they aggressively barked out their orders at a rapid pace and fevered pitch.
Moving on, we looked at the other food options and when we turned the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac of stalls, we couldn’t help but notice the shawarma stand. We ordered a quesadilla from the woman who was teaching her son how to prepare the dish. It was interesting to observe that the teen was being groomed to help or possibly take over the business. She explained each step, how to carve the meat, how much to place on the tortilla, how much cheese to add and how long to cook on each side. Hopefully, he took mental notes as the quesadilla was perfectly crisp on the outside and moist and gooey on the inside.
After our second dinner, we meandered to the other end of the market and opted to take a Tuk Tuk back to Anusarn to check out the Boy Blues Club.
It was located on the second floor above the market offering a nice view and a breeze to boot. The band was pretty good but the alcohol selection was lacking. Still it was a nice chill spot to hang out, relax and listen to some solid tunes.
The next day, we went to the famous Sunday Night Market. To say that market was overwhelming would be an understatement. It was massive with various offshoots on to other streets.
What is interesting about the Sunday market was it actually had some unique vendors, with original artwork, ornate and exquisite inexpensive bookmarks and cards. I enjoyed seeing what was available but one could seriously spend 6 hours before seeing everything that was available. We didn’t stay long as it looked like rain and the aisles were filling up with people, making the browsing and sightseeing less enjoyable by the minute so we retreated and headed back to our humble abode.
Chiang Mai Night Markets provide a place where one could definitely find and haggle for unique souvenirs to remind one of their time in Chiang Mai.
They’re also great for sampling local food at a relatively low price point.
For us, night markets are another entry point into the mindset of the people and what they found to be of value enough to sell to locals and tourists alike.
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When we first booked our trip to Chiang Mai, my husband proclaimed that he wanted to get a massage every single day. We were reminiscing about the 2 hour deep tissue oil massages we previously had at Oriental Massage Phuket and how those were likely the best massages we have ever had. For 2 hours, it was 1000 baht or roughly around $32. We had 3 massage treatments and paid our therapists the equivalent of $40. My husband’s massage therapist, Au, impressed my husband so much that he asked for her each time. The last time we visited, she was in the back, eating lunch but when she heard he was there for her, she stopped eating to accommodate him. I went through 2 different female therapists before I finally found Peuw who was just sensational.
All the petite women at Oriental Massage Phuket were freakishly strong and worked incredibly hard to work out whatever kinks we had. The setup for the massages there is unlike what we’ve grown accustomed to in the States. We hoofed it up 3 narrow flights of stairs to the 3rd floor where we walked into a room with a long wooden platform with several thin padded beds of sorts. Those were used for Thai massages which don’t involve disrobing and can be done in the open. Our treatment area had a few regular massage tables separated by loose drapes in between the tables. We undressed in front of the women as there was no dressing room and there weren’t additional sheets to use as cover up. We started our massages face down on the one sheet on the table and basically were exposed until we were draped with bath towels. I recall the therapists walking and kneeling on our backs at some point. When we eventually turned over, they covered us with the towels and for the most part, excluding the Thai stretch at the end, the massages were normal. The setting was definitely not a Burke Williams experience but the massages were a 100 times better because of the skill and remarkable strength of the women.
Jump forward 2 years and this time, we’re nearly 1000 miles north of Phuket in Chiang Mai. Our first massage experience was at Lila Massage which is an establishment that is dedicated to training and employing previously incarcerated women. We had just finished visiting the Cultural Arts Center when we walked out and saw Lila Massage across the street. We inquired about a 2 hour deep tissue oil massage which led to the receptionist making a call. She then led us out of the spa and advised us that their other location would able to accommodate oil massages. We walked past the square where The Three Kings monument is located.
When we arrived, there was a room full of female therapists standing and sitting around. My husband wanted an hour and a half deep tissue oil massage followed by 30 minutes of Thai stretching with their strongest therapist. What can only be described as fear or laziness, most of them rebuffed the offer to work on him. The woman behind the desk said they could not do both, that it’s one or the other. Having been spoiled by Au in Phuket who was initially hesitant but acquiesced, he insisted that it can be done, advised them that he’s a massage therapist and that the primary purpose for our trip was for him to attend Thai massage school. Not budging, the manager said that because of the oil, there was no way to stretch. I thought that clearly there was no creativity or drive to make money because the easy answer was to wipe us down and use towels or sheets to absorb the oil and stretch us. It almost felt like they weren’t interested in our business but desperate to get a massage on our first full day in Chiang Mai, we settled for a 2 hour hot oil massage which cost 1400 baht each.
Already, it was more expensive than what we had paid in Phuket and we weren’t getting exactly what we wanted. We started by being shown two chairs where our feet were washed and we were given house slippers. Just like in Phuket, we climbed up 3 flights of stairs but we were taken to a private room with 2 beds and its own bathroom. Unlike in Phuket, we were asked to wear what can only be described as black plastic undies and I was given a shower cap for my hair. The ladies left the room and let us undress in private and we started face down. Surprisingly, they started on our calves and then our hamstrings before making their way up our backs, skipping the glutes and hip areas completely. At a certain point, both women stopped massaging as they heard a torrential downpour of rain hit the roof of the spa. They continued and when we were flipped over, they once again began with the feet, ankles and thighs. As if that wasn’t odd and uncomfortable enough, my therapist worked on my entire chest and abdomen areas which are the forbidden zones in the U.S.
To say it was a weird massage would be an understatement. Their technique seemed a bit rough around the edges with a lack of bedside manners. My massage therapist also seemed a bit hostile. Still, I reminded myself that they were providing a service and were being given a second chance and an opportunity to assimilate into society. After our massage, we were given a cup of tea and a cookie.
Two days later, we went to The Home Massage and Spa which was a recommendation by a couple we met at the elephant sanctuary. I booked 2 2 hour massages for 1800 baht each and asked for pickup and drop off service which they offered inclusive of the price for the massage. The spa was a completely different environment than both Lila Massage locations. The Home Massage and Spa appeared to be on the first floor of a small pristine white colonial style boutique hotel.
Fronting it was a small pool and some lush landscaping but fronting that was the driveway and car park area.
After we registered, we were given hot tea and 2 cold washcloths to cool us off from the heat while our feet were washed before being given rattan house slippers. Then we were led into a dimly lit room with 2 beds and a full bathroom. The space was quite large and ornate. Again, we had the plastic underwear and shower cap. What was evident very early on was the technique and the proper draping etiquette of these women. The strokes were much more like the rhythmic strokes we’re used to but the order of which areas of the body was treated was very much in line with Lila. When the awkward front portion finally arrived, I had proper coverage and the periphery of the chest area was addressed rather than the entire section. As polished as the technique was, the beds were extraordinarily hard and by the end of the massage, my lower back was spasming. Also, just like the first set of therapists, only forearms, elbows and palms were used and no specific pressure points were addressed by their fingers. Again, the hips or glutes were ignored.
After our massage, we were given tea and small peanut butter and jelly shortbread cookies. Disappointed, my husband rejected the offering and whispered that he was done with massages for the trip.
Surprisingly, he changed his mind the last 4 hours we were in town, a week later. I had read about Perception Blind Massage on TripAdvisor and it was ranked higher than The Home Massage and Spa and both were in the top 10. I mentioned that the likelihood of us having to wear the plastic contraptions would likely be lessened since the therapists are blind and they may actually work on the Thai forbidden zones of glutes and hips which by American standards is less invasive than the chest and abdomen.
We took a Grab to their singular location and were greeted by a lovely receptionist who handed us a questionnaire about what areas we wanted addressed. We had not been asked previously so I took that as a positive sign in the right direction. We were given a cup of cold tea and while we drank it and had our feet washed, we were handed our individual massage therapist’s bio and story of how/why they became visually impaired or blind.
Already, we had an attachment and connection with our therapists before having actually met them. We were led to the rooms, walking past our therapists who were seated in chairs against the wall. The room we were led into was smaller and much darker than the two prior rooms but it was very tastefully decorated in a dark contemporary Thai decor. The adjoining bathroom was also dark and small.
Sadly, I was wrong about the plastic underwear and shower cap but the massage tables were padded and more comfortable than at our previous spa. My massage therapist started off with light rhythmic strokes and then she went in for the kill. She found knots in places I didn’t know existed. As she was pressing down on them, hearing my deep cleansing yoga breaths, she would say as she pressed down harder, “I’m sorry but it’s really tight.” I somehow suppressed the urge to scream but at certain points, I thought my eyes would bulge out of their sockets from the extreme effort to keep it all contained. Luckily, our therapists did use their fingers to address deep areas in our trapezius and also, I watched the blind male therapist work on my husband’s glutes while mine worked on the area between that and my lower back.
After the massage, we gave them each 200 baht and were given the same cold herbal tea as when we arrived as well as a peanut butter jelly shortbread cookie and an Oreo cookie.
Hours later, during our two separate flights home, we met two young women who also had massages on their last day. Both women coincidentally had volunteered for a non-profit and had been in the mountains for most of their time in Chiang Mai. The first lady we met went to a random massage place and asked for a full body massage. We exchanged the horror of the frontal areas being addressed but unbeknownst to her, the female massage therapist was having her treatment lead to a happy ending. Upon the shocking realization, she ended the massage abruptly, paid the full price and practically ran out the door. The next tale we heard was from a young girl, a freshman in college, who shared the massage room with a male friend/classmate of hers who she inadvertently was exposed to during the frontal part of the treatment. The takeaway is to research the establishment and if traveling with others, be mindful of potentially awkward situations and ask what the room setup will be.
Massages should make you feel less stressed after the experience. It starts with the setting, the friendliness of the staff, the connection with the therapists and the effectiveness of the technique. Of the three massages we received in Chiang Mai, Blind Perception was the clear winner for all the reasons that were important to us, and it made us feel that we had contributed to a very worthy organization and helped two amazing hardworking professional individuals.
Oriental Massage Phuket: http://orientalmassagephuket.com/
Lila Massage Ratchapakhinai and Lila Massage Prapokklao: http://www.chiangmaithaimassage.com/
The Home Massage and Spa: http://www.thehomemassageandspa.com/
Perception Blind Massage: http://www.perceptionblindmassage.com
My last morning of cooking school was bittersweet. It was my last full day in Chiang Mai and I had just gotten used to the routine. I felt like I was finally feeling enmeshed in the local life and its rhythms. I was looking forward to heading to the market and getting my daily sai oua from the petite Thai lady and possibly getting a bag of the coconut custard treats I had for the first time yesterday so my husband could also sample them. Alas, we were only at market for a pickup. I considered jumping out and heading to the vendors but I didn’t want to disrupt the flow. Luckily, Pon knew I would miss my daily routine and brought back a bag of sai oua for me to eat on the ride to the school.
When we arrived, our first task was to carve some vegetables.
Then we proceeded with the day’s menu:
Tom Jued – Clear soup with minced pork
Paw Pla Tord – Spring rolls
Gai Hor Bai Toey – Chicken in pandamus leaves
Gaeng Phed Ped Young – Red curry with roast duck
Gai Phad King – Chicken with ginger
Khao Neow Mamuang – Mango with sticky rice
My companions for my last day of class hailed from Paris, my favorite city. Throughout the day, we chatted about various subjects but at no point until the end of class when we were heading back did we actually exchange names. It’s interesting how much we collaborated, helped each other and exchanged information without needing to know specifics. We just had a friendly trusting symbiosis despite hailing from different parts of the world. I had studied French and they had studied English. Before parting ways, we exchanged contact information as my husband and I are planning on heading to Paris next summer and we wanted to get together during our time in town.
Cooking school was an amazing experience for me. I can’t cook everything I learned but I will definitely incorporate some of the techniques and will be recreating some of my favorite recipes when I get back.
I have zero hesitation recommending this particular cooking school but equally important, I thoroughly enjoyed spending time and getting to know each of my classmates and meeting people from all walks of life, from different parts of the U.S. and the world. What we all had in common is that we were looking to take ourselves out of our comfort zone and expand our horizons despite the challenges. Thank you to my classmates and to Ning but mostly to Pon who watched over my every move and with his special sense of humor and subtle sarcasm, helped me find my way.
Thai Cookery School
I had 3 other cooking schoolmates with me on the 4th day so we started our day at the market. After the introduction to some of the herbs and ingredients our class was going to be using, we ventured off in different directions.
I had tried the sai ua the day prior but I had a hankering for it again today. I first learned about it on Mark Wiens’ episode in Chiang Mai and how relatives in Bangkok considered it rude and disrespectful not to return with the sausage as a gift from the visit up north. Sai ua has a bit of hit with a subtle lemongrass aftertaste. If I lived in Chiang Mai, it would definitely be a daily breakfast treat with eggs and rice.
Another treat caught my eye on this visit to the market. My curiosity was piqued by several YouTube episodes in Chiang Mai. There’s a dessert that has a coconut custardy base with either green onion, cheese or pumpkin. I tried the first and latter at the market, courtesy of our instructor Pon who is friends with the owner of the stand.
He also had us sample what I will call a coconut burrito which was basically a gooey pancake exterior with coconut inside.
After our market visit, we were whisked off to the school where we prepared the following:
Phad Siewe – Fried Big Noodles with Sweet Soy Sauce
Hope Neung Plaa – Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves
Gaeng Gari Gai – Yellow Curry with Chicken
Gai Phad Med Mamuang – Chicken with Cashew Nuts
Plan Goong – Spicy Prawn Salad North Eastern Style
Kluay Buad Chee – Bananas in Coconut Milk
Pon gave the class a few pointers. To loosen up the thick noodles, pour a few tablespoons of oyster sauce with the noodles and manually separate them. With the oil in the wok cooking at high heat, there are only certain types of oils which should be used for Thai cooking. Vegetable, sunflower and peanut oil would suffice.
Also, because of the hot oil, unlike in Italian or even in Chinese cooking where the garlic is the first ingredient in the pan, the meat, be it pork, chicken, beef, shrimp or fish is first dropped into the wok and the garlic placed in shortly thereafter to prevent the burning of the garlic.
I can’t believe that tomorrow will be my last day but this week has definitely been enlightening and enriching. Looking forward to a strong finish!!
Thai Cookery School
Grace Gambin
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