For Spring of 2023, I had initially planned on heading to Lisbon for our first holiday of the year. However, on one fateful weekday morning in fall of 2022, I started my day perusing social media and saw that British Airways was having a sale. I pretended to book a trip to London just to see what kind of discount was to be had with the intention of booking for the following year, but as I soon discovered, the British pound was the weakest it had been in a long while, and the discount offered by British Airways for two roundtrip fares, ground transportation to/from the airport and a nine day stay at a hotel in Kensington with breakfast could not be ignored so after a day of pondering and getting final approval from my husband, I booked our trip to London.
Fast forward six months later, we were finally on our way to the UK. Fortunately, our flight from Los Angeles to London was nonstop so it was a pretty seamless experience.
Once we landed, it didn’t take long to go through customs and retrieve our bags. It was the first time we ever made arrangements for a driver to pick us up from the airport and though there was a thirty-minute delay in locating us, it was a great perk to be personally attended to and before we knew it, we had arrived at The Rembrandt in Kensington.
Upon entering the lobby, we checked in and was told that our room wasn’t ready which we had anticipated since we arrived before the regular check-in time. After dropping off our bags, we headed out to an early lunch. We walked from our hotel for about 5 minutes, checking out other fairly empty restaurants before heading towards Honest Burger which I heard was one of the top casual burger joints in the area.
Much to my surprise, the restaurant was packed and a line was forming behind us which only got longer as time went on.
It was a fun, buzzy spot filled with both locals and tourists alike. The music was a mix of upbeat songs which was set to a decent volume. Service was spot on with the servers and busboys moving and grooving.
I ordered the South Ken which was fine but not spectacular. The beef seemed a bit dry and the tzatziki was a bit bland, lacking in lemon zest and dill flavor.
My husband’s pesto chicken sandwich was much better. The chicken was tender with a light creamy sauce that blended harmoniously with the chicken, and the bun was lightly toasted giving it a bit of texture. My husband’s slaw was also exceptional and unique as it had a pineapple zing to it.
After lunch, we meandered around the block and found our closest subway, buying a week’s worth of Oyster rides. Then we headed to a small market just outside the subway to buy water before heading back to the hotel.
Our room was on the third floor and was located in a quiet part of the hotel. Though the room was small, because the configuration was L-shaped, it provided a somewhat hidden area where we stored our luggage. The room came with an electric kettle to heat up water for our morning tea and coffee. It also had a mini bar which we didn’t even open as we had packed our own adult beverages and snacks. The bathroom was a decent size and had a tub. There were two small closets and a dresser as well as a desk and television.
After a quick nap, we got ready and headed out to dinner. I had made reservations for the newly opened Jacuzzi restaurant in Kensington after reading an article that my much beloved Pink Mamma chain was opening up a sister restaurant in London. A few other restaurants by the same chain were already in existence in London but Jacuzzi was the closest to our hotel.
It had started to drizzle on our walk to the train station and as I was on holiday, I failed to acknowledge that it was rush hour, and people were in a hurry to head home so the train station was packed and I got a bit discombobulated. I saw a train coming in and just hopped on, failing to take note where the train was heading which ended up with us being dropped off at the wrong location, resulting in a last-minute decision to contact an Uber while standing out in the pouring rain at Earl’s Court.
The hostess at Jacuzzi was accommodating and still honored our reservation, despite being 20 minutes late, and we were escorted upstairs to my requested dining area. The restaurant was kitschy but warm with an element of Greco Roman architecture and design.
The dining room had stunning pink chandeliers above the middle section of the room. Jacuzzi’s clientele fell in the same mold as its Parisian sister restaurant, Pink Mamma: upscale, educated, stylish and likely well-traveled.
We started with the beef carpaccio served with rocket which was quite good and drizzled with a nice dressing, served with herbs and cheese.
Our second starter, the endive salad, was a nice contrast as it was a bit bitter but softened by the balsamic vinegar and had a bit of crunch and texture from the walnuts.
Our third starter, which we had loved so much at Pink Mamma in Paris, was the burrata al tartufo but unfortunately, we were served the wrong order, the pistachio, which was a fail as it tasted like air, laden with fat grams and calories.
We asked for our original order which was slightly better as it had a bit of saltiness and earthiness in each bite.
The next dish to arrive was the truffle pasta which was beautifully presented in the cheese wheel, but I’m sad to say it paled in comparison to the Pink Mamma version.
Our tiramisu was a very generous serving and had a lovely bitter chocolate creamy bite. Overall, service was a bit spotty but we found out that it was our server’s third double shift, and he was likely tired. He comped us a few items after mistakenly serving us the wrong dish and as an apology for the extended wait times in between the dishes. Overall, it was an okay experience but the quality of the food and the services at Pink Mamma in Paris was far superior.
Day Two was our first breakfast at The Rembrandt.
They offered a nice savory buffet as well as a decent selection of beverages.
After breakfast, we headed to the Victoria and Albert Museum which was conveniently located across the street from our hotel.
The collection was expansive though we opted to only visit the first floor.
They had an array of art and sculpture from Europe, Asia and Africa.
One could definitely spend several days absorbing everything the museum had to offer.
Much like many other British museums, admission was free.
After our museum outing, we hopped on our first double decker bus using our Oyster card and grabbed front seats on the top deck as we headed east. It was great to have that vantage point as we rested our weary feet. We had to transfer for a quick ride on the tube before we arrived at our lunchtime destination, Borough Market. It was much smaller than I anticipated with fewer vendor stalls.
We came upon a stall where a woman was flipping an enormous amount of mushrooms over a giant wok, and it stopped me in my tracks.
Though we had lunch reservations, something intuitively told me that the mushroom risotto she offered would be right up our alley.
It was a spectacular earthy aromatic dish which was reasonably priced for the quality.
Then we meandered around a bit more before heading to our lunch destination. Lucky for me that I had enjoyed a pre-lunch treat as our actual lunch at Burger & Beyond was a disappointment.
I ordered a bougie burger which was mildly better in flavor than the prior day’s burger. However, the beef patty was incredibly dry. Dunking it in the steak sauce added the much-needed moisture and a savory oniony bite.
We also ordered a salad which had grated cheese and slightly oily dressing that blended harmoniously with the crispy slightly bitter veggies.
The banana peanut butter shake was thinner than shakes in the U.S. but had a good flavor.
One upside to the meal were the truffle tater tots which were fantastic. The mayo dressing on top was laced with an intense truffle infusion.
After lunch, we headed to the Millenium Bridge to observe the view and the sights.
The bridge and the adjacent area were filled with kids who had just ended their school day. Most were in various types of uniforms representing their schools or perhaps their grade levels in school. It was lovely to see the revelry with kids enjoying their schoolmates’ company outside of the hallowed halls of their chosen educational establishment.
After our bridge crossing, we headed back to our hotel where we took a much-needed nap. Somehow, we woke up 15-20 minutes late which resulted in us being late yet again for our dinner reservation.
Dishoom Kensington which was fairly close, only two train stops away, but like the day before, the trains were busy and full. This time, upon arriving at the restaurant, we lost our reservation, and we had to put our name on the waitlist.
We spent that time at the bar ordering our drinks and luckily were seated 20 minutes later.
The restaurant’s interior design was a subtle weaving of Art Deco and British sensibilities. Its interior was fairly large, with several sections of seating. We were seated in a booth to the side and had an expansive view of the dining room. Not one table was open and if it was, it was quickly cleaned and seated with new diners.
Our first starter was the chili cheese toast which was perfectly crisped and robust with a hot spicy flavor.
Next up were the okra fries were super unique. As our server Susannah pointed out, they were created for people who hate okra and that was definitely me. Just the mention of okra whisked me back to awful childhood memories of the slimy center but the preparation and presentation at Dishoom almost made me almost forget.
Their version ofchicken tikka was tender with a slight heat and a citrus peppery aftertaste. The daal on the basmati rice gave it a mealy spicy layer. The citrusy herbaceous potatoes were bumped a few flavor notches when dipped in the creamy dill dip. The veggies were perfectly al dente with a subtle layer of sourness. All in all, we had an amazing time at Dishoom, and we fully understood why it had such a great reputation.
The next morning brought us to the famous Bond Street for some luxury shopping.
Our first stop was Chanel where I had made an appointment with a sales associate but as luck would have it, he out sick that day, and I was assigned to another gentleman who, to be honest, initially appeared reticent to assist me, but when it appeared that I was a legitimate buyer, he was a bit more helpful.
Next stop was Hermes where my husband made his first purchase from the brand. I was also in search of sandals but they didn’t have my size and color in stock which ended up working out for the best because I ended up making a purchase at Mulberry which was a few minutes walking from Hermes.
I had been eyeing the Mini Alexa online as a possible everyday bag. It had reached its popularity over a decade ago when the brand initially collaborated with Alexa Chung in its design. When I laid eyes on the bag in store, I was immediately besotted and even though they only had the floor sample available, I still bought it.
After our morning shopping trip, we headed via subway to our lunch reservation at Aqua Shard. We got a bit lost as google maps steered us in the wrong direction but we eventually found our way. They had a security line which luckily wasn’t very long. Once we were led to the proper elevator, we headed up, walked over to the hostess table and were seated a few minutes later.
Our table was right by the window with a fantastic view of the river and the bridge.
The rolls were served warm and had a nice toasted exterior. The chilled butter gave it a bit of salty bite.
The venison carpaccio was refreshing as it had a piece of boysenberry but it also had a bit of earthiness from the hummus.
The salmon was exquisitely flavored with a bit of citrus and creaminess from the potato salad.
The chicken was pretty moist and tender despite it being a breast. The exterior of it had a subtle tomato aftertaste. The mealy beans also absorbed more of the tomato flavor but also had a bit of heat.
The gnocchi were earthy pillowy bites set atop a creamy mushroom broth.
The salad was arugula based and slightly bitter contrasted with the small refreshing pear bites.
The gingerbread cheesecake had a powerful flavor punch accented by the tartness cherry syrup base and toned down by the ginger mousse.
The pistachio was an interesting combo of pistachio mousse, crunchy cocoa crumble, moist cake and peanut brittle. Despite the great view and the beautifully presented food, service was painfully slow and truthfully our server disappeared for a certain period of time.
Also, after a certain point, sitting in front of the floor to ceiling window, it became unbearably hot and the lack of air conditioning circulating within the restaurant contributed to us being physically uncomfortable. I definitely would not recommend a full meal at the restaurant and would likely opt for another establishment in the building with a similar view for either drinks or one with better and more prompt meal service. Another option would be to dine at night when the temperature is more moderate.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out for dinner. I again underestimated the rush hour crowd at the tube and forgot from the prior two evenings how my router and Google maps failed me upon exiting the subway station. We were 20 minutes late the last two nights and 30 minutes our third night. Unlike the other 2 restaurants, we were turned away at Barrafina which had a strict 15-minute late policy.
As luck would have it, a kind young fellow overheard our plight and recommended a restaurant which also was fully booked for the evening but a few doors down we came upon Thai Pot which ended up being quite a find. We were told there would be a 5-minute wait but after a minute or two, we were promptly seated. Our entrees were served a mere 5 to 10 minutes after ordering.
The yellow curry was incredibly tender. The chicken was shredded and almost melted on the tongue.
The pad kee mao had a kick as it had chilis interspersed. The beef could have been more tender, but it went quite well with the noodles.
The stir-fried chicken with lemongrass was practically unadorned but also incredibly tender and the lemongrass gave it a citrus zing.
The double scoop coconut ice cream was just perfect and whimsical with the blue cotton candy!
We were just minutes away from the theater where we had tickets to the 8 p.m. performance of “Six.”
I had been looking forward to the performance which was 90 minutes straight through without intermission. I had purchased front row balcony seats through TodayTix a few months prior so I knew we had extra leg room and would have an unobstructed view of the stage from our nearly center row seats. What I did not anticipate was the lack of air conditioning which made it very difficult to stay awake after a heavy dinner and donned in winter clothing. What we also realized during the show was the humor and digs intertwined within the script and songs were regionally targeted.
We missed some of the British references as a result but overall, it was a really great musical and the singing and performances were spectacular.
Post musical, we headed to an adult venue called Platinum Lace. My husband was curious what that culture was like in London. Sadly for him, it was definitely a money grab. Any adult could enter and get drinks at the bar, but there was a fee to watch the show and each personal dance was £800 so that ended our evening very quickly though I did happen to meet a dancer from Romania and became Instagram friends with her by the end of the evening. She had a cute dog and shared some insight about her colleagues so it wasn’t a complete loss, at least not for me.
Day four took us to the Natural History Museum which was also in close proximity to our hotel. It was, by far, my favorite museum of all the ones we visited in London.
I had always been fascinated by dinosaurs and the time before man and how our earth came to be. There were a ton of school age children there for field trips so it was definitely a very lively scene. The rooms were expansive and the attention to detail and chronology was quite impressive. I would definitely visit that museum again in a heartbeat as I don’t think I had the opportunity to let it all sink in.
We headed out by bus to Harrods after our museum visit. It wasn’t what I expected. It was a fully interior mall with sections set aside for each luxury designer with various levels for ready to wear and shoes.
What was impressive was their food court.
Anything and everything you could want could be found there.
It reminded me of the underground food halls in Tokyo. We purchased a few souvenirs for friends and then headed out to lunch outside of the store in search of a more reasonably priced sit-down meal.
We didn’t have too far to go as I found a restaurant that was a mere two-minute walk away. San Carlo Cichetti was apparently quite popular with locals as every table was taken by prior reservations. They had a small front section with a few tables for walk-ins like ourselves. We were promptly greeted, seated and our server arrived to take our order.
The garlic bread with cheese arrived and one could mistake it for a sauce less pizza the way the crust had risen.
The salad was quite lovely, lightly dressed in olive oil, light salt and balsamic dressing.
The beef lasagne came out piping hot straight from the oven and was smoky, creamy, cheesy and savory.
The carbonara had a peppery, creamy, silky egg sauce akin to mac n cheese. The pork bits added a bit of saltiness.
The truffle cheddar fries were served hot with cheese and truffle oozing into each fry.
The sea bass presentation and flavor were equally exceptional. The herbs and the salt crust permeated into each crevice.
The filet had a gravy peppercorn coating and the middle was perfectly dark pink. It was incredibly lean and tender.
Our server served us a traditional accompaniment to coffee. I’m not sure the name but they’re lightly crisped and fried, sprinkled with powdered sugar.
The pistachio ice cream had a level of creaminess I’ve not tasted in a very very long time.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out to Mercato Metropolitano which was essentially a large food hall. It had previously been a church but was repurposed into a sustainable community market. We ordered a few items from various stalls.
Our starters from Steamy & Co. were dumplings which were silky and immersed in a chili oil which had a bit of heat.
The beef bao was super tender with a doughy outer layer.
The cacio e pepe I ordered from a handmade pasta stall was a generous portion with creamy pasta, crispy bacon and silky mushrooms.
From a third stall, Santo Grill & Wine, we ordered two entrees.
The first was were Italian sausages which were perfectly cooked and sliced in half. They had a nice balance of seasonings and salt. The side dish potatoes had a slightly crisped and salted peppered exterior.
The second entrée was a chicken dish which was grilled to a moist perfection. The accompanying veggies were lightly dressed in olive oil.
The next day was the day we broke all walking records by booking two nearly back-to-back 3- hour walking tours.
The morning tour took us to Buckingham Palace, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey.
We had a brief break to have a quick lunch at Horse & Guardsman which served pub food.
My husband ordered a salad and a sandwich and I opted for the fish and chips which were both fine but nothing special.
We then headed quickly for our afternoon tour which took us to the main part of the city of London.
Post tour, we took a quick break and had a drink at another pub during which a storm passed through the city. It was the strongest downpour we had ever experienced and though the subway wasn’t far, by the time we made it underground, we were completely soaked through so we headed back to the hotel for a brief rest and change of clothes.
By the time we were heading out to dinner, the storm had cleared.
We had reservations in Chinatown at Duck & Rice which was by far our favorite of all the restaurants we visited.
The miso soup was piping hot but sweet from the green onions.
The dumplings were nice and plump and tightly wrapped. They were famous for their duck and though neither my husband nor I were book duck eaters, it was a mandatory order.
We were incredibly surprised that the skin from the roasted duck and rice were both crispy and savory. The duck meat was super tender, moist and not greasy.
Combined with the wasabi prawns which were slightly hot and the Singapore noodles which had bihon noodles, it was the perfect melding of flavors and textures.
We ordered a chocolate coconut ice cream for dessert. It was creamy, light, refreshing with a coconut punch.
In addition, we also opted for the chocolate cake which was a combination of caramel toffee, chocolate, vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup. Both were insanely delicious.
After the diet busting meal, we decided to walk around Chinatown and the theater district and see some of the sights before heading back to the hotel.
Saturday morning took us to the famous Portobello Market near Notting Hill.
It was pretty much your regular combo antique flea market. It was quite crowded and definitely had a more urban feel than Kensington. We tried out a few food stalls as we were there around lunchtime.
I picked up a tasty beef/chicken adobo combo from a Filipino food stall and it only cost £9.
My husband ordered a shrimp paella from a nearby stall which had a strong saffron flavor but the rice was inconsistent, with some sections slightly undercooked and parts overcooked and mushy. We walked off our lunch a bit before taking the train back.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed out for another walking tour.
This outing took us to the grittier part of the city where the Jack the Ripper murders occurred. We learned who the victims were and what their profession was at the time.
It was a low-income neighborhood with many homeless people on the streets.
Though that wasn’t apparent during our visit, it still had that dodgy feel, and it wouldn’t be my choice of location in the middle of the night.
We did, however, find the Spitalfields food hall, which had a few restaurants open late and willing to serve us. Brother Marcus was our dinner choice for the evening.
First out of the kitchen were the fries which were thick, peppered, piping hot and served with a sprinkling of feta cheese which melted onto the “chips.” Next to arrive was the pita which was served warm and was doughy with Zatar spices lightly sprinkled on top. We also ordered the prawns which were so hot that peeling the shell was a difficult endeavor, but they tasted amazing and had a hint of sweet chili oil.
The lamb though, stole the show. It was so flavorful, moist, perfectly seasoned and combined with the creamy sauce and bites of the “chips” it was the unequivocal winner.
We also ordered a chicken with orzo which was also on par with flavor and quality but had a slightly sweeter side as it had a tomato base. The orzo was silky and the chicken was juicy.
For dessert, we shared a baklava which had a similar upper pastry crust to the Filipino sans rival and the Parisian napoleon but slightly sweeter and syrupy. It had a nutty crispy flaky texture and combined with the cold creamy pistachio ice cream, it cut the honey sweetness in half making it an excellent pairing.
Sunday took us to mass at Westminster Abbey. We were originally going to head to St. Paul’s for service but we had a late start and Westminster Abbey was closer. As it was, we were a bit late and were seated in the back section with folding chairs. We were, however, able to receive communion which offered us a few of the Abbey. On television, the abbey seemed wider and more expansive. The pews on the sides were much closer to the aisle than I had anticipated. After the service, we had a brief conversation with one of the ministers. I mentioned that it was a very similar service to that of a Catholic mass. He said that they shared the same missal and read the same readings from the Bible. The difference was their ministers were allowed to marry and the monarch was the head of their church.
Post service, we headed for high tea at the Savoy. It took us a few attempts to figure out where the entrance was and I literally had to rewatch a YouTube episode and look at photos online to figure out how to enter the hotel.
Once we arrived, we were seated promptly and provided menus for the tea options.
After we were served our chosen teas, the first tray of food arrived. The chicken curry had a hint of sweetness from the raisin with mustard flavor. The ham sandwich was fine but rather plain. The egg salad was my favorite as it had a slightly salty and crispy bite. The mini bagel and lox with caviar was quite nice as well and teensy bit more to scale.
There was also a mini bagel with pesto which was good.
The “high tea” selection included an entree which was a lovely moist Scottish salmon, crispy skin side up, drizzled with a silky champagne sauce and alongside with a lovely buttered peas and kale combo.
The sweet part of tea had a nice assortment. We started off with the scones which were served with a lemon custard, strawberry jam and clotted cream. My raisin scone had a nice crispy top coating and dense center. The strawberry chocolate shortbread had a sharp tart flavor alongside the dense almost crispy outer layer. The rhubarb tarte was obviously tart but the fruit was tender. The chocolate bar had a crispy chocolate wafer underneath but the upper portion was dense and slightly creamy. The last dessert had a nutty toasted outer layer and a hollow middle. I wasn’t quite sure what it was, but just like everything else, it was quite good.
After tea, we headed out to meet a friend who coincidentally was in town. We hadn’t seen him since he moved out of Los Angeles years prior, and after living in New York for a bit, he had relocated to Tokyo so we made it a priority to catch up. We headed over to Waxy O’Connor’s for a drink and some snacks as well as some festive live entertainment.
After the excitement of the morning, we had a brief respite at the hotel before heading out for our first Sunday Roast. Sadly, by the time we arrived, they had run out of their famous roast but we still had an amazing meal at The Builders Arms.
We started with the nourish salad which had an abundance of broccoli, chickpeas, cucumber and red cabbage drizzled with a light herbal dressing.
I ordered the fish n chips which was by far thebest version of that entree I had ever eaten. The batter was unique as it was lighter and crispier. As you pierced your fork into it, you could hear the crunch. It was definitely an elevated version of something which seemed so simple.
My husband ordered a pot pie which had a crispy outer crust and a hot savory center and was served with a super dense and creamy mashed potatoes.
We also ordered a mac n cheese which had some panko style breadcrumbs on the top giving it a crunchy first bite but the rest of it was a creamy cheesy bowl of happiness.
The dessert of the evening was the sticky toffee pudding cake which was slightly sweet. The ice cream served with it subdued the sweetness and mellowed the flavor a bit.
The next day, we had booked a full day bus tour to Windsor Castle, Stonehenge and Bath.
Our first stop was Windsor Castle. When we arrived, there was already a very long line of people waiting to enter.
The area surrounding the castle seemed modest, but the grounds of the castle were fairly expansive with several large gothic structures including St. George’s Chapel which housed the tombs of both Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip. We were allowed to enter and pass by their resting place which felt very surreal.
After our visit to Windsor, we were whisked off to Stonehenge. Upon arrival, we encountered an incredibly long line to board the bus which took visitors to the monument. I had time to enter the on-site café, pick up a few items for lunch and finish eating while waiting to be escorted onto the bus. Sadly, by the time we reached the site, we literally had 15 minutes which we spent running around the monuments and taking a few snapshots to commemorate our time there. Then we once again had to stand in line to get back on the bus. In hindsight, we would have had more time had we just walked to the site rather than waiting for transportation.
The last stop was Bath which was a cute quaint town worth spending more than a few hours. We entered the museum which gave a very in-depth history of the city, the baths and who was allowed entrance when it was operational. We headed back to London just as the sun was starting to set.
Once back in the city, we walked over to Market Halls Victoria for some much-needed sustenance. We chose Gopals Corner which seemed very popular with the crowd dining that evening.
We were served a piping hot chicken roti which was savory, tender and packed with traditional Indonesian flavors. The prawns had a nice heat and the fried chicken was expertly fried maintaining its batter, and the rice with curry sauce rounded out the dish. The banana leaf platters came with two side dishes which were unrecognizable and forgettable.
The noodles were incredibly spicy.
On our last full day in London, our first outing was the Sky Garden for a bit of sightseeing followed by an exceptional lunch at Darwin Brasserie.
We were served a bread basket which was reminiscent of Cheesecake Factory’s whole wheat baguette. It was served warm and tasted a bit nutty.
We also ordered a soup which was slightly sweet with a hint of coconut.
My burger was sensational. The patty was moist, perfectly seasoned and combined with cheese, crispy bacon and sauce. It was delectable.
The green beans were perfectly al dente seasoned with a bit salt, garlic and shallots or possibly onions. The truffle and Parmesan fries were served crisp per my request, coated with cheese, herbs and truffle. The dip for the burger/fries was a combo of melted cheese and thousand island dressing.
My husband’s entrée was a lovely tender piece of chicken breast which was lightly seasoned.
After our decadent lunch, as the skies had turned gray and the temperatures dipped, we opted to take the Uber Boat and see the sights from the River Thames.
We took a roundtrip river cruise and then hopped off to head to Tate Britain for a bit of art and culture and to shield ourselves from the gloomy weather.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we headed off to our last dinner in London.
The Ivy was a great place to people watch as it broughtin a very attractive, well-heeled clientele, but it also welcomed individuals with strong academic backgrounds and their compelling insight on the country’s politics, financial and socioeconomic issues. Listening to the two gentlemen seated in the booth next to us was incredibly enlightening as it was a healthy open, honest and intelligent debate and conversation rooted in education, life experience and acute observation and awareness. But back to the food, we were served a bread basket with crusty and nutty offerings.
We ordered the must have cheese soufflé was unreal: smoky, piping hot, doughy, in a pool of cream akin to the consistency of a soft-boiled egg.
The tuna tartare was also quite good. It was moist and tender with a slight jalapeño kick.
The monkfish was good, served in a savory tomato- based sauce.
The coconut rice had actual slivers of coconut in it.
The peas and beans were really delicious and tasted healthy.
My husband’s shepherd’s pie with cheese was served piping hot, had a strong bold beef and cheese flavor with a light crust and thick gravy. While we were dining, we witnessed a marriage proposal which was the icing on our evening.
Our last meal in the UK the next day was at Giraffe at Heathrow airport where we had dined 18 years prior during our layover for our honeymoon.
We ordered a chicken teriyaki, chicken curry noodle dish, a grilled salmon and a side of fries. It was a lovely way to end our English dining experience.
For most of my life, I have always loved the idea of London. As a teen, I immersed myself in “Canterbury Tales” and “Pride & Prejudice.” As an adult, I was transported to London via “Four Weddings & A Funeral” and “Notting Hill” and learned about its history whilst watching “The Tudors.” I was thoroughly amused by the British wit and sarcasm of “Downton Abbey.”
And of course, I have watched every “Harry Potter” movie! However, there is nothing more memorable than walking the neighborhoods, taking the historical tours and delving deeper into the British roots and traditions.
We fell madly in love with London, its beautiful magnificent architecture, its culinary delights, and the pulsating energy of the city. Looking forward to returning in the near future!
In the summer of 2022, my husband and I went on a ten-day Parisian vacation. It was curated primarily around restaurants and sites with a sprinkle of luxury shopping along the way. If I’m speaking your language, then welcome, and I hope you enjoy this very detailed itinerary as we explored Paris with our eyes, tummies and wallets.
Our first introduction to Paris’ melting pot of culture and flavors presented itself in the Marais, our home away from home. Upon checking into our VRBO, we headed out to the famed Marches Enfants Rouge.
It had previously been a children’s hospital in its former life but was transformed into an open-air farmers market where one could buy produce as well as sample some of the local eats.
Since we were still getting our bearings and the market was further away than we anticipated, we stopped off at Au Coeur du Marais where we met Clem, a fantastic bartender who upon seeing our Rolling Stones shirts, immediately comped us a drink as the Stones were his favorite band.
In addition to our first drink, the restaurant/bar was also where we had our first meal in the city. Clem ordered us an off-the menu special, a jambon et fromage baguette. It was actually quite good and very filling.
After our pre-lunch drink and snack, we headed to the market to a stall called Les Enfants du Marche which I’m sad to say was a disappointment despite all the hype.
My husband ordered a salmon and apricot entrée (28 euros), and I opted for a dry aged sirloin (35 euros) as well as a tall chilled glass of beer.
The latter was probably the best part of our order. Sadly, the salmon was lackluster and oddly flavored, and the sirloin was quite chewy and barely edible.
Disappointed but not discouraged, we headed back towards home and picked up some groceries at the store across our pied-a-terre and then unpacked and got some R&R before getting ready for our first dinner outing.
I found Datscha from the Forbes list of 20 Best Restaurants to try in Paris and opted to make it our first Parisian dinner due to its close proximity to our VRBO.
Upon entering the restaurant, we walked into a dark cavern which opened up to an expansive bright lush atrium where we were seated for our dinner experience. We lucked into a fabulous server named Aniss, who took the time to explain the highlights of the menu in English.
The flatbread had a salty pretzel type aftertaste with a hint of an oniony component.
The fried lasagna was quite unique and served in a pool of sauce with a bit of citrus, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a hint of heat from the pepper.
The coconut curry almost had the consistency of a cake with maybe some egg and a cold slightly hard cheese mixed in for a bit of texture and complexity. It was served with their version of a miniature Caesar salad. The romaine was thick, crisp but diminutive.
The monkfish was by far my favorite. It was a thick piece of filet with a creamy citrus sauce and had a bit of smoke but wasn’t overdone.
Our dessert was a tangy berry sherbet topped with a chocolatey syrup and a burnt white chocolate crust which was exceptionally unique. By 8 p.m. the restaurant was full, and there wasn’t one empty seat in the house. It was definitely quite popular with the younger, attractive, upwardly mobile crowd. The restaurant surprisingly played an eclectic selection of LA old school gangster rap ranging from Snoop, Dr. Dre and Tupac. I would describe Datscha as upscale, a definite must try if one is a foodie and looking for unique interpretations of various dishes in a unique setting.
After dinner, we decided to wander off and literally get lost.
We walked by the Centre Pompidou,
observed a few street acts,
sauntered by a few floral festooned restaurants,
stopping by one for a drink.
Then we meandered past a mall and beautiful church, and that’s where things went awry. I failed to bring my portable battery, and our router had gone dead.
We wandered the streets trying to pick up on free wifi and ended up eating a second dinner of sorts of delicious creamy bacon carbonara and fries and ordered some additional adult beverages. Despite the wifi access, we still could not figure out how to get back so by some miracle on a busy night, we were able to hail a cab. Exhausted and in a panic, we rattled off our address in broken French interspersed with English which caused our driver to give us an ultimatum: chill out or get out as our negative energy was exhausting him. That was a jolt of reality as we did need to reset. Luckily, we calmed ourselves down, he figured out where we needed to go, and he dropped us off in front of our rental.
The next morning was our first of two luxury hauls. We headed over to Coco Chanel’s original store at 31 Rue Cambon. I had tried for months to get an appointment and was unable so we planned to wait in line. By the time we arrived at 10:20 a.m., there were already two lines inside the store. As it didn’t appear to be moving, I left my husband to wait as I walked across the street to Dior where I had an 11 a.m. appointment.
I was assigned a young male sales associate who spoke impeccable English as he was a student at Columbia University and working at the store during his summer break. I selected my purse, the coordinating thin silk scarfs and charms for the bag I chose, provided my passport for the VAT refund and payment information and returned to Chanel while the Dior purchases were being packed.
An hour after initially entering Chanel, we were greeted by a female sales associate who led us to the ready to wear section as she collected the two bags that I requested. I opted for the larger of the two as it accommodated my sunglasses as well as my cardholder and a few other small items.
After another hour spent with the formalities involved in submission of the VAT refund, we headed to our final shopping destination of the day.
We had made arrangements via email to meet with a sales associate at Breitling so the process of purchasing was fairly seamless and since we put a large dent in our accounts, when we were offered a bottle of chilled vodka, we accepted gleefully and decided to celebrate early.
Needing sustenance after an arduous morning, we made our way to the famous Angelina.
There was a line to enter, but it only took about fifteen minutes and was definitely worth the wait.
Our first course was the Caesar salad which was tangy and cheesy and quite generous in size.
Next to be served was the pasta dish which was robust in flavor and complemented with a Parmesan crisp.
My fish and chips were lightly battered but tender and flaky and served with delicate, dainty, crispy fries.
For dessert, we ordered the hot white chocolate which was quite creamy and smooth and definitely a decadent treat.
The chocolate praline was a nice accompaniment and hit all the right notes: slightly bitter with a crunchy shell and a creamy middle.
After lunch, we collected my Dior purchases and then headed home for a bit of rest before getting ready for the evening.
Our second evening’s dinner was at Le Comptoir de Traboule which was a great neighborhood find.
We started with the saumon gravlax which my husband commented was sushi grade quality fish. It was served with a crispy tempura and apricot sesame sauce which gave it a slightly sweet flavor.
Next up was the soft-shell crab which was crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside and set on a green curry sauce which gave it an Asian flare.
The sliced beef tataki had an onion flavor in its dipping sauce and was seared but slightly pink in the center.
Last but definitely not least was my personal favorite dish of the night which was the asparagus with egg which had a creamy soup appearance.
We ended off our dining experience with a mug chocolate cake which was served piping hot. The inside was bittersweet, rich and gooey that it definitely gave us a jolt of caffeine.
We had 9 p.m. tickets for the Eiffel Tower so we headed out for our eight minute walk from the restaurant.
Unlike our first visit, we opted to see the city from the tower at dusk.
In late June, the sun sets at 9:46 p.m. so we had a bit of time to enjoy the view from above.
We stayed up top until the tower was lit which occurred around 10 p.m. After a few obligatory purchases from the gift shop, we made our way down so that we could see the twinkling lights from the street which began right at 11 p.m. It was magical and breathtaking and well worth the effort and the wait. We hailed a taxi and headed back for the evening.
Our third day in Paris had us heading out quite early for a guided Versailles Palace and garden tour.
Coincidentally, we headed back to an area quite close to the Eiffel Tower which was our meeting point. After a fairly short bus ride, we arrived at Versailles which already had long lines of people waiting to be admitted.
One of the upsides to a guided tour is being allowed into a less congested entrance.
The other bonus was the history lesson with our guide who pointed out specific paintings and certain pieces of furniture which were significant in the lives of those who previously inhabited the palace’s walls.
After a very detailed tour of the interior, we were given our tickets to explore the gardens.
Unfortunately, we only had one hour left and the area was so expansive that we just stayed in the area near the palace.
Because we visited on a Saturday in the summer, the gardens offered a water show at each of the designated locations.
After our Versailles visit, we hailed a taxi to take us to our lunch reservation at Chez L’Ami Jean which I accurately assessed would be the best of the best during our visit to Paris. I first heard about the restaurant from one of Phil Rosenthal’s episodes which was set in Paris.
Chef Stephane Jego was behind the kitchen the entire time with only one person helping him. Observing him from our table, he prepared every dish with precise accuracy like a surgeon.
We ordered a few items so that we would have an accurate assessment of the experience.
The first dish was a thick filet of tuna which had a smoky flavor akin to a steak but was moist and had a slightly crispy burnt texture. The peas were crisp, fresh and served with sliced beets, and both served as perfect accompaniments to the marinated tuna.
Our second dish was the asparagus which was perfectly grilled and layered with a thin sliver of cheese.
The chef sent out a complimentary off-the-menu risotto with onion and peas. It was sensational, creamy with a subtle hint of onion flavor. Truth be told, I ordinarily don’t care for onions, but Chef’s version of the dish was so tasty, almost porridge-like and surprisingly and unexpectedly perfect.
Next up was the beef stew which was incredibly tender, with a wine and shallot aftertaste. The broth had a mixture of peas and crispy asparagus spears.
The mashed potatoes served alongside were super creamy.
The fish of the day was sea bass which was served on a bed of sliced carrots and onions. The preparation of the fish was exceptional as it was tender and flaky and was quite a generous serving.
The rice pudding served with toasted nuts and salted caramel was my childhood dream reincarnated. Our server told us that just the week prior, during fashion week, Justin Timberlake came in to pick up the pudding to take back to his hotel room.
We were seated right next to the kitchen where we watched Chef crank out dish after dish, plating each one meticulously. He clearly was focused on the best quality ingredients as well as the importance of every dish being cooked properly and served at the appropriate temperature. While we enjoyed our lunch, we observed him yelling at his staff to hasten their pace to get the food to each of the guests within a minute of him finishing up the final touches. Our server told us that he had a flat upstairs where his ex-wife and child lived, and he took naps in between service. Every morning, he went to the market and chose the freshest ingredients. Upon hearing about Chef’s dedication to quality of ingredients and observing his passion for cooking, we decided to make Chez L’Ami Jean a regular stop for every upcoming visit to Paris.
After our very rich and opulent lunch, we attempted to hail a taxi or grab an Uber. Unfortunately, it was drizzling, and our options were few and far between. We stopped at a bar to have a drink and regroup. Our bartender mentioned that there was a taxi stand down the block where we could catch a ride to head back to our condo.
After a short rest and shower, we headed out for the evening.
Unbeknownst to us, the pre-show dinner at Ginger which came with our Crazy Horse reservation was going to be the best part of our evening. We were provided a prix fixe menu with a few options.
Our starters were the egg rolls which were super crispy and flavorful and the tuna tartare which tasted fresh and savory.
Then for our entrees, my husband chose the fish which was quite flaky and moist, and I ordered the beef which was amazingly tender and was pure umami.
Each entree included a choice of one of three side options, but we paid a bit extra to get all three which were white rice sprinkled with sesame seeds drizzled with sesame oil, noodles stir fried in soy sauce and crisp and lightly seasoned veggies.
We ended our meal with a chocolate molten cake which was just beyond divine.
During dinner, we befriended a couple who were also heading to the theater. They were witnesses to the horrific display aka “show.” Our entrance fee included a bottle of champagne which was beyond awful and almost rancid. We weren’t sure if the “girls” on stage were actually live or if what we were watching was previously recorded footage which was projected onto the stage. There was nothing risqué or interesting about their performance.
At one point, I fell asleep and stayed asleep until the end of the show. At least I got some extra rest and was able to put myself out of misery.
When we arrived back in the Marais, we came upon a very packed and lively crowd. We did not realize that it was Pride, and all of the restaurants and bars in the Marais were busting at the seams. It was a site to behold, and we consider ourselves fortunate to have been at the right place at the right time. After spending a few minutes walking about watching the celebrations, we headed back to our condo and turned in for the evening.
The next day was a bit of a reprieve from the intense schedule from the days prior.
We decided to take a leisurely walk to Musee d’Orsay but on the way, we encountered a bicycle race along the Seine. It was difficult to pass to get to the other side of the street as there were so many participants.
Once inside the museum, we utilized the Rick Steves’ app for a self-guided audio tour of the museum.
It was larger than I remembered, but it was still by far my favorite of all museums in Paris as it housed my favorite impressionist painters.
After a few hours, we made our way to Cafe Campana which had changed its format since our first visit. It was no longer cafeteria style and instead transitioned into a sit-down dining area with servers.
We ordered the Caesar salad which was a very generous portion. There were large slices of chicken interspersed amongst the egg wedges, lettuce and cheese slivers.
My husband ordered a penne pasta with tomato sauce served with cheese slices drizzled with pesto sauce.
I ordered a chicken dish with Moroccan flavors. The rice had a toasted burnt almond taste interspersed with the moist chicken sitting in a tomato stew. We were served dinner rolls which unfortunately were tough as cardboard and inedible.
We decided to hop on a Batobus on our way back to our neighborhood. Pro-tip: Order the tickets online for a discount.
Unfortunately, the sun was blazing hot, and it was quite uncomfortable during our cruise, but it was nice to see the city from a different vantage point.
After a much-needed nap from the busy morning, we headed out to a Guy Savoy restaurant within walking distance called L’Atelier Maitre Albert. The restaurant was a bit dark and cavernous inside, but it seemed fairly popular and filled up quickly.
We were served with a complimentary amuse bouche starter of what may have been salami as well as room temperature carrot soup which seemed like an odd pairing. There was definitely a contrasting theme of salty vs mildly sweet. The rest of the dinner followed the same oddity of flavors.
The chicken liver salad was next, and it was served hot and smoky with a crisp, cold lettuce which was drizzled with light dressing.
My husband opted for a cold soup which appeared to be some kind of green vegetable puree. There were two slim square pieces of goat cheese at the bottom of the soup bowl. Both starters were quite good.
I ordered the chicken with potato gratin for dinner. The chicken was a bit dry though the skin was slightly crispy.
My favorite part of the dish was the dollop of mashed potatoes which were so creamy and rich that it almost tasted like a decadent smoky macaroni and cheese side dish.
My husband ordered the salmon which was excellent and a far better choice.
However, the buckwheat risotto he ordered on the side was grainy and set atop a mild mushroom broth which gave it a bit of moisture.
For dessert, we ordered a hot roasted peach tart with sorbet and a chocolate cream tart with raspberry sorbet. All in all, it was a fairly reasonably priced dinner but not one of the standouts of our trip.
We decided to walk off our dinner and head to Ile Saint-Louis. It’s the area where we stayed on our first trip to Paris.
I had read that the Moulin Rouge dancers frequented Aux Trois Mailletz during their time off so since it was fairly close, we headed over and stayed for a few songs, even witnessing a 50th birthday family dinner celebration.
Afterwards, we walked around and visited our former hotel before heading to get a bit of a late night scoop of ice cream from the famous Berthillon.
We polished it off while sitting on the banks of the Seine.
Monday took us on a different path as we headed to Place des Vosges and then Place de la Bastille. It was a long walk which was going to be rewarded with a stop at what David Lebovitz determined was the bakery which served the best croissant in all of Paris.
Unfortunately, I did not check Ble Sucre’s website until we were at the square and was horrified to learn after our nearly two hour walk that it was closed on Mondays. By this point, my husband was “hangry” and looking at the sky, it seemed as if rain was imminent.
In a panic, I quickly googled “best croissant” in the area and managed to find one that was a five-minute walk from our location. It ended up being a blessing in disguise as our happy accidental find became our favorite bakery in Paris.
Artisan Boulangerie Saint Antoine had a small outdoor dining area on its sidewalk which not every bakery had in Paris.
We ordered the chicken and mustard poppy seed baguette which had a mild flavor, was lightly dressed and beyond delicious. In addition, we also ordered the chocolat pistache escargot which I had seen in several YouTube videos as a “must order” and their version was insanely delicious and is now my favorite pastry. Lastly, we also ordered a croissant which was crisp on the outside but light and airy on the inside. It was truly the best 7.50 euros spent on the trip!
Luckily, the skies cleared by the time we were done with our mid-morning snack, and we headed off to the colorful Rue Cremiuex to take a few Instagrammable photos and proceeded to have some soothing, warming organic tea at the nearby Le Cremieux. After a quick respite, we headed to our lunch spot which was about a thirty-minute walk away.
Le Servan was also featured in Forbes’ best restaurants and was helmed by two half Filipino, half French sisters. One was the chef and the other ran front of house. The restaurant sat on the corner of a busy street with both indoor and outdoor seating. We opted to sit indoors as we had a view of the somewhat open kitchen.
We started off with the ravioli which was quite mild but had a bit of nuttiness from the peanuts interspersed throughout. It sat in a broth that was reminiscent of a wonton soup.
The Caesar salad had a bit of heat from the kimchi and was heavily dressed but it didn’t overpower the dish perhaps because of the crispy lardons and egg. The latter starter was definitely the perfect exemplification of a euro Asian fusion dish.
For our first entrée, we opted for the duck which was very dense and thick, almost like a steak. The skin was a bit too chewy so off it came. The green beans were in a Worcestershire, soy-based sauce much like an oyster sauce which added a bit of Asian flare to the traditional French dish.
The tuna, however, was the more exceptional of the two. It was also thick like a steak, but it was perfectly cooked and lean, set in a bed of white creamy sauce with a slightly sweet mango sesame mushroom drizzle. There was also a “filet” of mushroom served with it which was an interesting and successful pairing.
For dessert, we ordered the fruit tarte which had an overwhelmingly nutty taste. Alongside it was a sorbet which was quite sour.
Unfortunately, the second dessert, the rhubarb, was a complete miss as it was stringy and took a lot of effort to consume. Overall, we wouldn’t recommend or return to the restaurant. I am disappointed as I had read that it was David Chang’s favorite Asian restaurant in Paris, but perhaps too much time had passed since his initial visit and the quality had deteriorated. It felt as if the powers that be were trying too hard to create a hybrid of French and Asian dishes, and the effort just fell flat.
After our lunch, we hurried off to our first of two free walking tours. It was a sensational way to spend an hour and a half, to say the least, and we are now huge fans of free walking tours.
We learned quite a bit about the Marais, and how one part of it was swampland and that portion was designated for the Jews who lived in the city.
We loved walking in the narrow walkways and courtyards hearing how the area evolved over the decades.
Our guide was witty, charming and funny, the trifecta of a perfect guide.
It was quite a warm day so after our tour, we headed back home for a nap before we got ready for our evening.
Our dinner at Le Drouant was interesting. It was quite plush, elegant, upscale and refined. All the servers wore suits and ties, and the guests were dressed in casual upscale garb. It was the first restaurant we had been to which had a dedicated sommelier.
The food was brought on a tray by one individual along with the table’s server and a third individual served the plates of food to the guests.
All the glassware was Riedel crystal.
For our first starter, we had French peas with what appeared to be shredded lettuce akin to coleslaw.
The second dish was the asparagus which sat in a creamy white broth that had an egg and finely sliced chives flavor.
The main dish was the famous chicken, and it was sensational. The meat was moist and covered in a Worcestershire style sauce which had a hint of tarragon.
I was surprised at the quality as I was served a breast and wing which were both ordinarily dry and difficult to tenderize.
The risotto dish served alongside was creamy and cheesy and the mushrooms added a layer of earthiness.
My husband’s fish was tender and flaky and sat in a bed of creamy herbaceous sauce which almost tasted a bit like mayonnaise or yogurt.
For dessert, we were served a chocolate cake which was super rich and dense, drizzled with a light chocolate sauce.
The rice pudding was fine, but the kernels were chewy and seemed undercooked and not on the same quality or scale as what we had enjoyed at L’Ami Jean.
The last dessert was the meringue was light and fluffy and tart. We would recommend the starters and entrees, but the desserts were just subpar in comparison.
Our sixth day had us starting off in Montmarte.
We headed to the I Love You Wall, taking the obligatory Instagram photos before meeting up with the second free walking tour.
We were quite surprised at how large our group was as it made hearing the guide quite difficult.
Nevertheless, we trudged up the steep streets and listened to what we could catch, admiring the view and architecture from atop the hill. The group coincidentally had a stop at the I Love You Wall and that is where we were introduced to a second guide who we opted to follow in lieu of the original guide.
It turns out that our second Montmartre guide was the founder of the free walking tour in Paris and was a wealth of information.
Also, because the group was smaller and of course, he had the most experience, what he shared was more thought provoking and informative.
After our ninety-minute tour, I quickly took a photo by the carousel at the foot of the hill, and we rushed down the hill to our lunch reservation at the Instagrammable Pink Mamma. Despite having reservations, we still had to wait in line. There was also a line on the other side of the building for those without reservations.
Though we were about 15 minutes late, the hostess called our name and escorted us to the rooftop dining where I was hoping we would be seated. While there, we met a fellow American from the East Coast who was sitting to my right. She was supposed to have been back home, but her flight was cancelled so she somehow got a last-minute reservation and was enjoying a beautifully colorful lunch.
We started with the bresaola de boeuf punta d’anca which was a bit like beef carpaccio, shockingly delicious, lean but not overly salty. The stracciatella fumee was incredibly unique and foreign to us as we have never sampled the center of a burrata. It had a bit of black pepper and olive oil interspersed and was divine. The double trouble truffle pasta and pizza were sensational standouts which we would happily order again and again.
For dessert, we opted for the creme brûlée which was still lit when served to us and was just the perfect icing to a perfect meal.
Pink Mamma was our second favorite restaurant in Paris because of the rooftop dining, the divine food and our amazing server, Gabriel. He shared a bit about his background and his thoughts about Paris and France in general. Coincidentally, the hostess and Gabriel were a couple, lived together, didn’t own a car because between the gas and parking, it was cost prohibitive so they only took the metro and walked everywhere else. He mentioned that they are taxed at 75% so it was incredibly difficult to move outside of their socioeconomic level. Gabriel shared a few more anecdotes, but it was our time speaking with him and our new friend from the East Coast which added to our lunch experience and is frankly why we travel, because one cannot gain the intimate and personal insight without heading to faraway destinations.
We headed home, full and sleepy from the delicious carbo-loaded lunch. After a nap and shower, we walked to our dinner reservation at Bouillon Republique which was about twenty minutes away from our condo.
Bouillons are known from serving incredibly inexpensive meals, and ours was the only one at the time which took reservations.
Others typically had on average at least a one hour wait. The menu was extensive, akin to a Jerry’s Deli menu.
I started off with the egg appetizer which was creamy and savory served with a pinch of truffle.
We also shared the shrimp and avocado which was an odd but interesting pairing. It was very light dish which sat on a bed of greens.
Next was the soup which was essentially a dark broth with a few vegetable pieces.
My husband ordered the cod and was pleasantly surprised at how good and filling it was. It looked a bit like a fish pot pie with breadcrumbs on top.
My steak, however, was a bit tough and chewy which was a disappointment and lacked seasoning, but the fries served alongside were nice and crispy.
For dessert, I ordered the ice cream which was creamy, dense and delicious.
My husband ordered a brioche French toast served with a caramel syrup on top which took it up a notch. The Chantilly cream served with it had a bit of liqueur flavor.
The next day, we first headed out to Luxembourg Gardens and discovered an expansive oasis in the middle of the city.
We walked around a bit, witnessed a few people running, observed a few artists painting and drawing and as we walked out and saw that the park had both tennis and basketball courts for the sports minded enthusiasts.
Then we ventured off to the Rodin Museum. It was a bit of a walk but it gave us an opportunity to see yet another side of the city. We had pre-purchased tickets as it alleviated the time standing in lines.
Once we checked in with security, we were given our audio guides, and we made our way across the courtyard to the building to view the sculptures before heading back out to the gardens.
After our tour, we stopped for a quick bite of Caesar salad and carbonara at their café before hailing a cab to take us to my noon Cartier appointment.
This was the start of our second luxury haul. I was in the market for a tank watch and had a lovely salesperson. After the purchase was made, I saw that Hermes was across the street, so we sauntered on inside.
I realized once amidst a mass display of Birkins and Kellys that we were in the “mothership” store. Although it would have been nice to be offered one of the quota bags, I didn’t have the budget or the time to make that effort but instead was interested in acquiring a pair of leather shoes. We headed upstairs and were instructed to put our name on the list. It was about a 30–45-minute wait so we explored the store.
Walking around was an experience in and of itself.
We saw watches which were in the six-figure range.
The China patterns were stunningly beautiful and colorful. It was definitely a store where one could literally spend a fortune.
Finally, I received a text message that my turn was coming up so we returned to the shoe section.
I was offered a pair of black leather sandals which was the only pair in all of France that was in my size so of course I had to buy it.
After Hermes, we headed to Prada as my husband needed replacement sunglasses.
While he completed his purchase, I walked down the street to Christian Louboutin to buy my first pair of red soled shoes.
We took a break from shopping to visit L’Orangerie Museum. Luckily, they had a check in desk for all our bags, and we were able to whiz through the museum in about an hour.
We viewed Monet’s Water Lilies in several of their galleries as well as other works of art.
The last store we visited was about a twenty-minute walk from the museum. Repetto had a pair of ballerina flats on hold for me.
After I completed my purchase, we headed to a very late lunch at Sanukiya.
We started off with the karaage which was moist and not overly oily. The omelet was more savory than sweet compared with others we tasted during our time in Japan. The granules of rice were bigger than what we normally eat at home and had a slightly pickled flavor.
The udon broth was sweetened by the green onion, and the tempura was super light and crunchy. The pork slices which was super lean and tender. Our lunch was fine but to be honest, the staff wasn’t very friendly so we will likely not be returning.
After our late lunch, we tried for the next hour to hail a cab.
Unfortunately, it was rush hour and nobody was available so this was the day when we walked over eleven miles during our daytime outing. It left us no time to nap as we had to immediately get ready and get out the door to make our 6:45 p.m. Moulin Rouge reservation.
We were close to an hour late but much to our surprise, there was a line of other late comers outside the venue. After we were seated, we were treated to a live band with singers which was a very pleasant surprise. Moulin Rouge definitely had a much better ambiance than Crazy Horse.
We were promptly served water and dinner rolls and drink orders were taken.
For our prix fixe dinner, we started with the crab appetizer which was creamy, chilled and tasted fresh from the sea.
The salmon was salty, smoky and tender.
The pate alongside wasn’t anything exceptional. It had a doughy crust but the inside tasted a bit like salty spam. I definitely would have skipped this dish.
My chosen entrée was the veal which was super tender and savory.
My husband’s fish was in a mild pepper sauce.
The chocolate dessert served after dinner had a layer of raspberry which gave it a bit of tartness.
The ice cream had a bit of sourness to it. Bonus surprise: there was cake inside the ice cream!
The food was okay but nothing exciting. However, the dinner reservation gave us preferential seating for the show so it was passable. The show was one of the best I had ever seen. It had circus acts, topless cancan dancers, gymnastics, singers, snakes in water, Medusa, cleopatra, clowns, balancing acts, electric lights and was a visual and auditory feast. We left the theater completely enamored with the show and vowed to return but possibly dine at one of the better local restaurants on our next visit.
The next morning turned out to be a bit rainy and cold.
We ran to meet our guided tour at the Louvre, and luckily we were escorted underground where we could recover from the miserable weather.
It was our second visit to the museum, but because it was so overwhelming the first time, we opted to have a do-over with a guide which we highly recommend.
He highlighted certain paintings, escorted us away from the crowds, took us in early to see the Mona Lisa and then the Winged Victory aka Nike.
Our guide was a wealth of artistic knowledge and definitely helped us better appreciate the artwork and sculptures.
After our tour, we hopped in a taxi and arrived for our lunch a bit early. The first time we ate at Les Deux Magots, we were on a tight budget. During our prior visit, it was a pleasant day so we ate outside and sampled a few of the less expensive items on the menu. I didn’t recall enjoying whatever we ordered as they were pretty basic. This time, between being cold and wet and also in a better situation financially, we went for broke, unexpectedly, specifically on the 16 euro double Pierre Herme desserts.
We ordered a few vodka martinis to warm us up.
The asparagus starter had a bit of creamy chive dipping sauce.
My husband’s salmon was oily, flaky, crispy and perfectly grilled.
I ordered the burger which was savory with a perfectly cooked medium patty served with crispy fries.
Then for dessert, we opted for the vanilla tarte which was incredibly creamy with a dense and buttery crust.
Our second dessert had a flaky crispy crust and a light chocolate nutty middle. Both were perfect endings to our fantastic meal.
After lunch, the rain had cleared up so we walked to Saint Chapelle, arriving an hour before our 3 p.m. ticketed time. It was completely unorganized with three lines. The closest to the wall were those without tickets. The middle line had tickets on the half hour and the outer line had tickets on the hour. The randomness of which line was allowed to enter was incredibly frustrating. We weren’t admitted until a bit past our reservation time. It was our first visit to the church and though the stained-glass windows were impressive, we probably would prefer to visit for a music event in the evening as the experience would likely feel more ethereal.
After a brief rest, we headed out to a dinner venue in our neighborhood, Robert et Louise. It was a cute little tavern style restaurant which had a downstairs area. We were seated upstairs, on the main floor, next to the open kitchen.
I ordered the entrecôte which was lean and tasty though a bit tougher than what I normally prefer but for a rib eye, it was quite good.
My husband’s shrimp was plump and sweet.
The winner though was the mushroom omelet which was smoky and a tad bit herbaceous. With each of these plates, one can select two of the three side options. The green salad was mildly dressed with very fresh, crisp greens. The haricot verts or green beans were slim and perfectly cooked al dente. The potatoes had a smoky and slightly sweet flavor.
For dessert, we opted for the chocolate cake which looked a bit like a soufflé with a warm creamy middle. The scoop of ice cream and berry drizzle with cream made it a delicious well-rounded dessert.
The next morning took us on our first European train ride to Giverny to visit Monet’s home and water lilies. We met a mother and son from one of the northern central states and had a lovely conversation with them on the train, sharing our Parisian experiences thus far. Once we arrived at the station, we hopped on the bus for a quick ride to the neighborhood and then proceeded to get lost immediately after we headed out.
The signs weren’t quite clear as to which direction Monet’s house was located.
We eventually found our way and though our entrance ticket wasn’t for another few hours, we were admitted.
We started with his gardens and then meandered into the house.
It was quite impressive being in his studio and looking out at the windows, seeing in person where my favorite impressionist painter lived and how he lived. After the house tour, we made our way to the water lilies.
The pond was fairly expansive, and there was just something magical being there and seeing what captivated him and inspired hundreds of paintings.
After our visit, we headed to the nearby café, Les Nympheas, for lunch.
My husband ordered the fish which was flaky and lemony served with creamy potatoes.
My omelet was gooey and cheesy with perfectly crisp fries.
We shared the chicken salad which was moist and had what might have been an egg battered paprika panko bread crumb coating.
For dessert, we opted for the chocolate molten cake which was dense but had a warm creamy center.
We headed back and stopped off at L’as Du Fallafel for a quick snack. Despite all the hype, it was a huge disappointment.
We ordered the fallafel and a mixed schawarma plate. Both were bland and unexciting. We headed back for our afternoon rest before heading back out to dinner.
Our restaurant of choice, Le Train Bleu, had a magnificent interior, a bit like a museum with paintings on the ceilings in an expansive space.
We started with the salad which was fine but nothing out of the ordinary.
The lobster mac and cheese had a bit of pot pie top crust, was super creamy and savory.
The chicken dish had a bit of cheese crumble which added a layer of depth to it.
Our dessert of the lemon soufflé which had to be ordered at the start of the meal was completely worth the wait and the calories. It was eggy, light, frothy and unbelievably unique!! Combined with the thyme ice cream, it was a fantastic dessert combo.
On our last full day, we started off at Les Colonnes de Buren to take our Instagrammable black and white photos with the columns.
Then we headed back to 31 Rue Cambon to take a photo on Coco Chanel’s staircase leading up to her apartment which wasn’t accessible the week prior.
After the two photo shoots, we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe where we had tickets to head to the top. Somehow, we were offered a ride on the elevator rather than walking up the narrow, winding stairs, which was a nice added bonus since it was a very warm day.
Having been there before, we knew what to expect and with the huge crowd, we didn’t stay very long.
We stopped off at Longchamps as it was down the street. Having purchased quite a bit, we needed to buy an extra bag. In speaking with one of the managers, he mentioned that the Global Blue office was just up the street and would provide a faster and easier refund process if we had the time prior to departing Paris.
After the shopping detour, we hopped in a taxi to Les Ombres.
We spent some time perusing the menu and decided to choose the pre-fixe.
We were served a bite of a round cheese pastry which was tasty.
The second dish which was compliments of the chef was a lot saltier than we would normally consume, and to be honest, we weren’t quite sure what it was. The rest of the menu was fine.
The soup was nice and herbaceous but subtle.
Fish was flaky and moist.
The artichoke was smoky.
The dessert was creamy, nutty, frothy and fruity. The worst part was the blinding and oppressive heat.
I felt like I had heat stroke as the service took forever, and I was wearing a black top and with dark hair, all the heat was enveloped on the upper part of my body.
The only redeeming part of the visit was the photo that our server took of us in front of the Eiffel Tower that only dining patrons would have the ability to take.
We headed back home to rest, pack and recover before heading out to our final destination, the Seine dinner cruise.
In hindsight, I’m glad we booked the cruise and paid extra for the window seat, but it was really warm inside the boat, and it made the experience uncomfortable.
The food was fine but nothing special.
The best part though was seeing Parisians enjoy a warm evening dancing, picnicking and just spending time with their friends and family along the Seine.
I’m glad those moments in time were our parting sights of Paris which will forever have a special place in our hearts.
So to recap, here are our learnings from our extended visit to the city of lights. I would highly recommend guided tours over winging it on your own. Having done both, learning about the history, location and/or artwork from somebody knowledgeable is a better use of time and money. Also, sign up for free walking tours. It’s a cost-effective way to see the city, get a workout and meet some people while learning about a certain place and time. On the foodie front, just because the restaurant has a location in Paris, it doesn’t automatically mean that the food and experience will be divine.
On this recent trip, our dining experiences were a mixed bag. On the one hand, just because a meal is inexpensive does not automatically mean that it will rank low on the satisfaction scale. Same can be said of the reverse though in our case, one of the most expensive meals was the best dining experience on this trip. Lastly, on the luxury shopping front, depending on the currency exchange and the VAT refund policy, the lower European prices make the experience a glorious one, getting more bang for your buck. I paid a fraction of the cost for bags and accessories compared to buying them in Los Angeles which has a higher sales tax, and as a result, I have vowed to only shop in Europe for my high-end luxury purchases.
As the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea. I’m already planning our next trip for when Notre Dame reopens because who doesn’t want to see the bored gargoyle up close or go to a mass where you don’t understand one word that’s being said? I also currently have a very long list of restaurants to try and a growing wish list of luxury goodies. I hope this blog incentivized a few readers to finally take the plunge and head to this beautiful romantic city or perhaps schedule a return visit to explore more of its arrondissements. Merci pour votre temps!
Despite being an ardent foodie, I have never taken a food tour so I decided that Hanoi would be the perfect opportunity to find some hidden gems. Luna, our Airbnb guide, made the evening jaunt worthwhile. First of all, the tour cost $0 so we were already ahead, but we paid for the cost of our food and left our guide a bit of a tip at the end.
We started out sampling some delicious and piping hot pork eggrolls and pork cutlets from a street vendor.
Then we headed off to try some sticky rice,
followed by a sampling of Vietnamese papaya salad and ending the food tour with an off-the beaten path beef pho.
The latter didn’t even have a storefront sign but did have a sign hanging off a tree and was located literally inside a family’s home.
The family previously had a stall but the government forced them to shutter so they have made do and hold a pop-up in their home with limited hours, from 3-7 p.m., serving only one speciality dish that they have clearly perfected.
To get to their establishment, you have to find the sign first and then enter a narrow pathway and climb up very narrow cement stairs which wind upwards. Then you end up on the landing and make a sharp right, taking a few steps before arriving at the restaurant. As in all Asian homes, you’re required to remove your shoes before entering.
We sat down on the low level plastic stools and a few minutes later our pho arrived. The broth was perfectly clear but distilled with hours upon hours of layers of beef essence. The pieces of beef were tender and the noodles were perfectly cooked. There were some herbs in the pho but they weren’t overwhelming. As we were the last customers, I saw the staff heading with our bowls to the kitchen which was in another room, where they were hand washing all of the plates and silverware.
Every square inch was used economically and efficiently which just goes to prove that one doesn’t need a state of the art kitchen to create an amazing dish.
What I particularly enjoyed about our evening, aside from the delicious and unique food of Hanoi, was hearing some of the stories about the norms in the city. There are certain jobs and responsibilities relegated only to women. Regardless of income, the government rations how much each person is able to buy to eat. The reason why storefront businesses are very narrow, deep and tall is property taxation is based on width and not height. Several families and generations of families live within one room, sometimes sharing one bathroom amongst them all with some homes not equipped with any bathrooms.
All of that seems shocking having been raised in the U.S. but it’s just a part of life in Vietnam, and there is a great and overwhelming sense of optimism and ambition amongst the people of Hanoi. If I had to describe the rhythm of the city, it’s a bustling metropolis in the heart of a young country that is readying and positioning itself to be a contender in the world of commercialism.
I just hope that in Hanoi’s valiant efforts to modernize, that it doesn’t turn its back on its roots, history and its values. Only time will tell.
When one envisions an amazing French dining experience, one might conjure up images of a dimly lit bistro on the Left Bank of the Seine or an outdoor restaurant in Aix-en-Provence sheltered by a canopy of trees or maybe one imagines a life-altering meal at Julia Child’s beloved Le Couronne in Rouen. My husband and I have sampled traditional French fare in the City of Lights and in Marseilles though nothing we ate during our holiday was of particular note. Surprisingly, it wasn’t until our recent vacation to Chiang Mai that we finally understood the rabid excitement and gleeful anticipation most feel about a French dining experience.
La Terrasse was on my short list of non-Thai restaurants up for consideration for a random meal when needing a break from the traditional food of the city. I had seen that it was ranked #41 of restaurants in Chiang Mai on TripAdvisor, and I had visited their website, noting the quaint setting and cozy vibes. I didn’t think we would have the chance to visit but lo and behold, we lucked into having our last meal there before heading to the airport to fly back home.
The restaurant is on a main thoroughfare but is tucked and nestled away, further back down a small alleyway.
The lush arched entrance stood halfway down the alley with the restaurant’s offerings displayed on a long rectangular wooden display case to the right.
Beyond the archway was the outdoor patio with an arched path leading to the front entrance of the restaurant.
We opted to dine inside, sheltered from the heat and humidity.
Once in the restaurant, it felt as if you had been whisked away to France. There was a display case of delicious diet-busting desserts likely baked in butter, full fat milk with artery and gut clogging cheese which obviously indicated their deliciously divine decadence.
The style of the booths, the woodwork, the drapes, chairs and even the photographs and artwork were all reminiscent of the decor of many of the bistros we visited in Paris.
We began by ordering what would be our last drink on holiday and toasting our amazing vacation.
We ordered the tomato basil soup which came in a rustic bowl with crispy thick sourdough croutons on the side. It was rich but not overly thick and the tomato had the subtle hint of basil and cream. The croutons added a bit of crunch and texture.
Next up was the mushroom omelette with fried potatoes browned in duck fat. That was the dish that seemed so incredibly simple but oh so divine and made us understand the simplistic exquisiteness of true French cooking. The omelette was cooked just right with the perfect amount of mushroom and cheese which had fused into each other. The potatoes had fully absorbed the flavor and were extraordinarily crispy and juicy from the duck fat. Combined, the omelette and potatoes were exceptional.
The spaghetti arrived twirled beautifully in a small bowl with a decent dollop of the carbonara sauce atop the pasta and though the sauce was thick it wasn’t too rich or overpowering.
We ended our meal with a moist and juicy grilled salmon which was served with a very creamy large serving of mashed potatoes and a slightly pickled lemon cream herb dipping sauce for the salmon.
The setting, the presentation and the subtle sophisticated delicate balance of the melding of flavors in the simple dishes offered by La Terrasse helped us to finally truly understand and appreciate French cuisine.
Sometimes the path to enlightenment takes you on a few twists and turns and that’s when you realize that it’s all about the journey. Merci beaucoup to La Terrasse for our transformative French dining experience in the heart of Thailand.
La Terrasse: http://www.laterrasse-chiangmai.com
We had walked by Hard Rock Cafe on one of our many jaunts to and from the night markets in the area. They seemed to have amazing bands playing so we finally decided to dine there on Monday night. It’s your typical themed restaurant. Living in Los Angeles, we’re quite familiar with the chain but are not frequent diners as it’s more of a novelty and not quite a foodie feast.
Ciro & Sal’s began its humble beginnings in 1953 in the quaint town of Provincetown, Massachusetts. What evolved into a local gathering place for artists and would-be chefs began as a humble sandwich shop co-owned and run by two local artists, Ciro Cozzi and Sal Del Deo. Sixty five years later, it still remains one of Cape Cod’s most beloved establishments where locals and visitors are welcome to indulge in deliciously decadent Italian dishes while sipping on wine and enjoying each other’s company.
At first sight, one can immediately sense that the dining experience at Ciro’s and Sal’s will be unlike any other. It is located down an alley that could easily be mistaken for a charming crushed shell entrance to a Cape Cod home. The restaurant’s iconic sign hanging from a white wood post on Commercial street steers you down the alleyway where you notice vintage inspired marquee letters spelling out the restaurant’s name, illuminated against the white wooden gateway. Behind the gate is a lush garden oasis beckoning you to enter. Potted plants and flowers line your steps, as you walk up to the gazebo where guests can dine on a warm summer evening under the canopy of darkness.
Romantically lit by the moon and with strings of outdoor lights woven between the trees above. As you enter the front door of the restaurant you can already sense that this will not be your typical restaurant experience.
Walking into the wine cellar dining room, the interior is warmly lit with exposed wood beamed ceilings and brick walls. Aromas of roasted garlic and sautéed seafood flood the air. There are straw clad canisters of Chianti bottles hanging from the rafters and the beams interspersed throughout the restaurant. The fireplace illuminates the room, evoking a cozy vibe, signaling the guests to unwind, relax, and enjoy the feeling of coming home.
The heart of a restaurant is in its ability to tell its story through its food and drinks. Diners repeatedly give high marks to dishes like Ostriche Giannini (Wellfleet oysters baked with pesto and parmigiana), Bruschetta (roasted eggplant, tomatoes and mozzarella on homemade pesto bread) and Calamari (fresh and locally caught). Their pasta is cooked perfectly al dente with the Carbonara and the garlic infused Vongole Bianco ranked as favorites. The restaurant’s signature sauce is SUGO which is a thick basil seasoned Italian red sauce having a gravy-like consistency. It serves as the base for their traditional Italian dishes such as the Veal Parmigiana, Lasagna and for their simpler pasta offerings like the Salsiccia and Polpete. Their seafood selection is always top notch as the restaurant’s close proximity to the sea ensures the freshness of each dish. To round out the dining experience, Ciro & Sal’s wine selection provides options from the various regions of Italy along with a sprinkling of French, California and Argentina offerings.
A new addition to Ciro & Sal’s is the wine bar tucked away upstairs, above the hustle and bustle of the busy dining room. The dimmed pendant lights set against the dark wood gives the space warmth and depth, evoking a sense of intimacy, much like a secret hideaway. Here one can quietly enjoy a sampling of wine flights and antipasti while unwinding from their day.
The current owner, Larry Luster, built his life from the ground up at Ciro & Sal’s. In the 1960’s he visited Provincetown from Chattanooga, Tennessee. Larry was hired as a dishwasher and connected with Ciro who began mentoring him, giving him a job that year and every summer thereafter. He started his tenure in the kitchen, eventually working his way to the front of of the house, becoming a highly requested server. During the day, he worked as the prep chef, making all of the sauces and base stocks from scratch, as well as the preparation of the produce and the meat for the evening’s dinner service.
Larry makes it his mission to ensure the quality and integrity of each dish on the menu and oversees every detail in the kitchen with a watchful eye. He is hands- on with every operation, from dicing the vegetables for the minestrone, to breaking down a whole cow leg each week, as well as preparing the restaurant’s renowned dishes like Bolognese and Philomena from scratch. His son Caleb now serves as the head chef while his son Zach runs the front of the house, establishing rapport with the local community, building relationships with those who have visited the restaurant over the decades as well as customer who are just passing through town on their holiday.
Ciro & Sal’s is truly a gem in Provincetown, not just because of its longstanding history as being the mainstay of delicious northern Italian cuisine, but also because it gives back to those in need. Since 2014, for each party that dines at the restaurant, a box of pasta is donated to shelters and soup kitchens in the area. Under Ciro & Sal’s One Meal at a Time program, the restaurant donates twice a year to local organizations to help feed people in need and to also build awareness that not everybody has the means or access to a warm, nourishing meal.
Over the years, Ciro & Sal’s has thrived, with lines consistently out the door. Loyal customers have been journeying to the restaurant for decades, bringing their families together to experience old world Italy, continuing the tradition by introducing the younger generation to its charming evocative setting. Ciro & Sal’s has always been family run and owned, and the heart and soul of its family is what has helped this gem of a restaurant endure the test of time.
Ciro & Sal’s
4 Kiley Ct
Provincetown, MA 02657
(508) 487-6444
We opted for dining at Kasbah because it was next door to our hotel, had been recommended by several websites and they had two soups which I thought would help our colds go though our systems faster. As I anticipated, both soups, were perfect and delicious. The harira was a vegetable soup with lentils, chickpeas, tomatoes, onions and garam masala. It had a complex and robust tomato flavor with little bites of lentil and onions. The chorba was a roasted vegetable soup of puréed tomato, zucchini, squash and chayote. It was the perfect combination for a soup. It was hot piping goodness for the soul. Invigorated, we were ready for our main dish. We got the mixed platter which had a chicken brochette marinaded in chermoula, beef tenderloin brochette, Merquez sausage which is a Moroccan spiced lamb sausage, harissa and lemon marinated tiger prawns brochette and a fish brochette which is a seasoned mahi mahi with chermoula. The prawns were the star of the platter as they were perfectly cooked and seasoned. The fish was slightly over cooked and the chicken and beef were quite dry. The couscous which came with it was perfectly seasoned and moist though it was quite a small serving. Luckily I ordered a small plate of crispy fries which were seasoned and fried to perfection. My recommendation would be to order the soups and seafood only plus the couscous and fries and that would be a magical Kasbah experience.
Boracay Island, Station 1, Malay, Aklan
Exquisite. Intoxicating. Mesmerizing. Three comprehensive words to describe our dinner experience at Dos Mestizos. Chef Andre Malarky is a true talent with skills that would challenge any Iron Chef. Several travel bloggers and ex-pats had written positive reviews of the restaurant. Since it’s not exactly a stone’s throw away from our hotel in Station 1, I hadn’t originally planned to visit but on every “best Boracay Restaurant” search, Dos Mestizos kept reappearing. We bit the bullet and decided to head south. It took a bit of time to hail a tricycle as the clouds and rain had disappeared and it was one day closer to Christmas so the island was busting at the seams. After maneuvering through some crazy chaotic street traffic, we arrived in Station 3 and headed down a narrow alleyway. A few minutes in, our driver stopped and said we arrived. Looking around, I saw the restaurant “Hangover” with Dos Mestizos nowhere in sight but figured we would eventually find our way. A few steps later, we were in front of our destination. My husband saw that the restaurant was nearly empty and said “no one’s eating here.” I responded “all the reviewers can’t be wrong.” We entered and asked to be seated in the bar area with the musical entertainment. Our server was fantastic. Super attentive and communicative. She advised us that our entrees would likely take 30 minutes but that the soups would arrive shortly. We started off our evening with a Stoli up, no vermouth, lemon twist for me and a Mojito, light syrup for my husband. We thoroughly enjoyed having an acoustic guitarist play while we unwound from our day/year. Then our soups arrived. To say they were fantastic would be an understatement. My Sopa de Ajo aka garlic soup was ordered because all the back and forth between the humidity and heat outside combined with sudden shocks of steely cool air conditioned interiors has been a shock to my system which has been attempting to grab onto a cold since our arrival. My soup was peppery, had little pieces of toasted garlic floating about and had an egg drop soup appearance. The hearty stock appeared to have simmered with a bountiful number of ingredients over a long period of time as it had quite a rich, complex flavor combination . My husband’s cold gazpacho was crisp, clean, tangy, thick, rich and hearty. It was a beautifully condensed flavorful soup perfectly chilled for the humid conditions. While we waited for our entrees, we were entertained with another musical group. We requested “Girl from Ipanema” as that song seemed to be in line with their light airy repertoire. A song or two later our entrees arrived. My husband’s chicken paella was served and shortly thereafter my half garlic chicken followed. I ordered my dish because of the garlic which I’m hoping will ward off any evil cold spirits but my husband ordered the paella because it was a specialty, he loves chicken and rice so it was a trifecta of a good omen. His reaction to the flavor, texture and experience of the dish is similar to that if somebody who just won the lotto. It was a complete disbelief, shock, amazement and extreme happiness at the ridiculously and fantastically flavor explosion that was his chicken paella. There were numerous chunks of chicken throughout the dish but the tender rice that was saturated with all the complex flavors completed the needs of all of his palate requirements. With each bite, he commented on how amazing it was, how great it tasted, how he’d never had anything like it before. Though the chicken paella was a plate for two, his addiction to the saturated flavors would not allow him to exercise any self-restraint and he accepted with humility that he was powerless against the forces of flavor against him. He happily acquiesced to filling up with the paella in lieu of any desserts. I had the half garlic chicken which was delicious, moist and satisfying. It was served with some thin green beans and a few sliced roasted potatoes. I ate every piece but the leg. The drumstick has always freaked me out because of that weird tendon. Our takeaway from this evening is that we hope our dining experience in Spain in the future be at least on par with our evening at Dos Mestizos.
Exquisite. Intoxicating. Mesmerizing. Chef Andre Malarky’s ability to infuse complex and rich flavors in each bite would challenge any Iron Chef. Such a find! Our best meal in Boracay!! #dosmestizosboracay #boracay #station3boracay #boracayeats #stolimartini #mojito #sopadeajo #garlicsoup #gazpacho #chilledtomatosoup #chickenpaella #paella #polloajllo #garlicchicken #boracayisland #foodie #foodfest #foodporn #foodpics
Remedios Street, Sitio Manggayad, Boracay Island, Malay, 5608 Aklan
I had seen the restaurant driving in when we first arrived and remembered chuckling as my friend Ron loves torturing our friend Yelena with all sorts of pig roast and pork photos since she’s a vegetarian and Ron believes life isn’t worth living without the crispy skin and moist tender meat of piggies. In my search of locating the best restaurants that suited our taste and budget, Pig Out Bistro kept coming up on the short list. We finally decided to try it. We walked down the beach and cut through the Astoria Boracay Hotel and the restaurant was across the street and a bit to the right. It had a lush serene patio area with greenery that shielded its patrons from the street. The interior of the restaurant was contemporary minimalist in style to mirror the look of the hotel adjacent to it. We ordered the pea soup with Parmesan crisp, beef togsilog with garlic rice, green veggies and a sunny side up egg and spicy chicken inasal with a red hued garlic fried rice and sunny side up egg. The soup was piping hot, thick and hearty. It tasted as the only ingredient used we’re peas which had been puréed. Perhaps a bit of salt and pepper and a dash of some dairy product were added but only for flavor and texture. The only suggestion is to perhaps place the parmesan crisp away from the steam of the soup as it was no longer crisp. My initial bite of the beef dish was disappointing as it tasted as if the meat had not been marinaded enough or perhaps was sliced with the grain as it was a bit tough. The rest of the slices were much better in texture, subtly seasoned tying perfectly with the garlic in the rice and the sautéed greens. The inasal had a bit of a kick that had saturated the entire piece of chicken so the flavor was far more consistent throughout that dish. The rice was thick, fluffy and moist. All in all, it was a solid meal. The price point of $20 with one bottle of beer for lunch made it a good option for lunch. And as mentioned in an article about the chef and restaurant, there were several Koreans dining who were taking photos of the food as they were in fact “Instagrammable.
Budget foodie heaven for $20 @thepigoutbistroboracay #peasoup #parmesancrisp #beeftapsilog #chickeninasal #filipinofood #cheapeats #boracay #boracayeats #foodie #foodgram #foodporn #foodpics #sunnysideupegg #garlicrice #rice #egg #beef #peas #soup #yummy #delicious #vacationfood #travelingfoodie
Boracay Tambisaan Jetty Port Road, Malay, 5608 Aklan
http://thepigout.restaurantsnapshot.com
Having been born in the Philippines, I recalled outdoor food markets being the norm during my time there, but having lived in the U.S. for many years, I’ve grown accustomed to the niceties of purchasing my seafood in tightly wrapped styrofoam containers. D’Talipapa is the one place I read about on every blog and in TripAdvisor so it was a must do. We had a tricycle drop us off at D’Mall as we thought that’s where it was located. It’s actually further south, about a 10 minute walk, but luckily there was a sign right outside its entrance according to photos from other blogs. On seeing the sign, we turned right into the alley and it was on the left-hand side just a few feet from trim the alley entrance. Truthfully, it was smaller than I had anticipated. There were lots of prawns, crabs, fish, sea urchins and lobsters for sale by aggressive vendors who shoved live lobsters in your face in an effort to get your business. We delved further into the stalls and found a not so aggressive vendor who had red snapper and sea bass displayed. The latter seemed the perfect size so we bargained down for the 1/2 kg fish from 700 to 600 pesos. We turned around and another vendor offered to sell us 1 kg of huge prawns for 800 pesos. We countered at 700 and a deal was struck. We took our lunch to Plato D’Boracay which was listed online as the place to have your seafood cooked. The menu photo I had seen on a blog from 2014 seemed to be the same menu we were presented so it appears that prices remained fixed. We asked for the lemon butter garlic sauce for the prawns and the fish was pan fried. We also ordered egg fried rice, 2 bottles of water and Dark Horse beer. We sat dumbfounded that a whole fish cost $12 and $4 to cook and 13 huge prawns cost $16 and $5 to cook. Even more impressive was the cook. He was ensconced in a confined small rectangular space in front of our table. How he was able to bang out such flavor and cook each dish with utter perfection with so limited means was astonishing. With each bite, we developed this fervent desire to consume more and more at a rapid pace. Silverware was forgotten as the hands are the best and most efficient methods to eat purely and efficiently. Tons of napkins later and all the food was decimated. The setting of our best meal in Boracay was humble to say the least but that is the lesson we learned. Astonished at the value and quality of the food, we realized that simple truly is best.
Grace Gambin
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