Cartagena had been on our bucket list as it promised beautiful colored buildings, delicious eats and a peek into the South American culture.
As I had already booked our Christmas holiday at the nearby island of Curacao, I thought it would be a nice change to have back-to-back vacations over the holiday break. I found a hotel in Cartagena, the Hyatt Regency, which was about $120 per night with breakfast so I booked it in January of 2022 and frankly didn’t think about it for months as I had two other vacations which predated the Caribbean/South American adventure. By the time I was ready to book air travel, I decided to cut the Cartagena trip short by one day but realized upon logging on that the nightly rate had increased to over $400. I contacted a Hyatt representative who suggested I keep my existing booking because if I made any changes, the nightly rate would be bumped up to the higher amount. I took her advice and months later, we were on our flight from Curacao with a short layover in Bogota. While at the airport in Bogota, I opted to pay for the Avianca lounge which promised a few samplings of food and beverages. It took some effort to find the lounge as it was on the opposite end of the building past security. There were only a few guests eating and resting in the lounge so finding a table was not an issue. After we dropped off our bags, we headed over to the food stations to find some late-night sustenance.
I spotted the potato with bacon sprinkles and as I was investigating the soup, I saw that a girl had nachos so I asked where she got them. She pointed to where I initially picked up the patatas so I backtracked and got myself a nice helping. I also grabbed a bowl of some creamy soup and ate the potatoes, bacon and soup together. On my way back from getting orange juice, I saw that fresh food had been set next to where the potatoes were.
I asked what it was and she said it was an egg wrap which was essentially a cheese quesadilla. Satiated, we got onto the next leg of the flight to our final destination.
As neither of us spoke Spanish and we were set to arrive after 10 p.m., I previously arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to our lodging for the week. Upon arrival at the Hyatt, we waited a few minutes to check in as there was a small queue and then we proceeded to head to our room where we immediately ordered room service.
As I unpacked and organized our belongings, our dinner arrived which we ate quickly, and we were finally able to nod off for the evening.
The next day, we woke up and looked out our floor to ceiling window and saw Cartagena in its full glory. Though there was quite a bit of work being done on the beach and road outside of our hotel, it was a glorious sight to behold as we had a 180-degree view of the ocean. Delighted and ready to start our day, we headed out to sample our first breakfast at the hotel.
I had booked a room with Club Access which afforded us a daily buffet breakfast and happy hour in their club lounge.
It was one of the best perks of the trip. The lounge was two doors down from our room and offered the same magnificent floor to ceiling view of the ocean and the beachside area. After breakfast, we headed to the gym, which was surprisingly expansive and also had great floor to ceiling windows, and after our workout, we changed clothes and headed out to the city.
Our first local outing was to El Bony Kiosk owned by a famous local boxer which was a 21-minute walk south of where our hotel was located. It was our first authentic insight into the city and the walk to this famous restaurant was challenging. At the time of our visit, parts of the sidewalks were closed off and undergoing construction. Street traffic was constant and loud. The streets were in disrepair, and part of our walk involved walking over muddied streets and broken concrete. There were vendors at every turn offering their wares, recreational drugs and women, and there were some foul street smells which wafted our way. We chose to ignore it and trek south, sweating buckets as the heat, sun and humidity tried their best to wear us down. By the time we arrived at the beachfront restaurant, even my iPhone camera lens needed to be defogged.
The restaurant fortunately had indoor dining with many fans circulating air. Once we were seated, I placed my bag on the back of my chair. In Spanish, an older gentleman gestured that I should have my bag in front of me at all times, because it would easily be stolen. The waitresses spoke very little English, but we were able to communicate what we wanted to order.
The fillet of the day was a sea bass which was nicely grilled with a bit of seasoning.
My husband ordered a shrimp pasta dish which was cooked al dente and the shrimp was petite but delicious. I normally steer clear of plantains but what was served was exceptional. It was flattened, deep fried, lightly salted and quite honestly, addicting.
After lunch, we headed back towards the hotel but made a side detour to a parallel street which very much was your typical congested city street so it took us out of vacation mode for a bit. We needed to stock up on bottled water for our room so once we had those in our possession, we headed back to the hotel.
At this point, we were definitely overheated so a much-needed stop at the pool was in order. We rested a bit before getting ready for an early dinner in the old city. Luckily, we had reserved an Uber ride a few hours prior as it would have been impossible to get one when we actually needed to leave. It was the middle of rush hour traffic so our driver had to drop us off outside the city wall, and we meandered our way to Buena Vida using Google maps.
The restaurant was set in a beautiful colorful and picturesque part of the city with a stunning view of the streets of the walled city. As a bonus, there was a live trio playing music during our meal. Parched and starving, we immediately ordered drinks and all things savory.
The ceviche was unique with the coconut milk and pork cracklings. The fish was incredibly tender and savory.
The crispy plantains added a bit of texture.
My shrimp dish was phenomenal. It had a bit of sweetness from the coconut rice but the lemongrass and pepper sauce dialed it down.
My husband’s “mac & sea” was incredibly rich and decadent. Definitely a diet buster!!
After dinner, we headed to Townhouse for some post dinner dessert and drinks. It was renowned for being one of the top bars in the city, and it did not disappoint.
It had beautiful rooftop views of the city and we were definitely with the “in crowd.”
We ordered a few drinks and also a decadent Oreo dessert which admittedly took a little longer to be served.
After the additional sustenance, we walked around to experience a bit more of the city’s vibe, but we somehow meandered outside of the city walls and into a much grittier part of town so we decided to flag down a taxi and head back to the hotel for the evening.
The next morning, we had a 10 a.m. old city tour so we headed out shortly after breakfast and decided to walk instead of taking a cab or uber so that we could work off our breakfast. It wasn’t as daunting of a walk as the morning prior. Heading north seemed and felt safer as the more touristy part of town was in that vicinity. We passed by a few military personnel taking a meal break by the park, and surprisingly, the sidewalks and streets heading to the city center were not dilapidated and in excellent condition. Once we arrived at the designated meeting site, we waited until more people had congregated before the tour began.
Cartagena’s history was similar to Curacao’s where we had just spent Christmas. As with many colonies, the city was sieged, plundered and their natural resources were taken.
Many of the indigenous people were killed to make room for some wealthy and privileged people who opted to stay and take over the best parts of the city. Our guide, Elis, was great, very boisterous and quite funny so it was definitely time well spent. She regaled us with stories about pirates and privateers burning down the main city, and the natives being slaughtered, tortured or purified during the Spanish Inquisition. The Cartagenans took pride in surviving all the horrific crimes committed against their people. Financial success though has evaded the majority of the population. In present day, 75% are considered lower class while the remaining fall in the middle and upper class so there’s still a huge gap of socioeconomic disparity.
After the enlightening tour, we headed to La Cevicheria where many moons ago, Anthony Bourdain dined. We ordered quite a few items from the menu, perhaps too many as the portions were huge.
The tasty light, crispy potato chips served with the hot picante sauce and mild mustard sauce started out our gourmet experience.
The Colombian mixed ceviche was their specialty and did not disappoint. The shrimp was plump and the fish was cubed, sitting in a lime, parsley marinade. The shrimp brava was a beautiful surprise.
The shrimp had a bit of paprika and the sauce had smoky tomato base. The slices of avocado added a nice creamy and pop of contrasting color to the dish.
The lobster paella was massive. Two half lobster tails were served atop a bed of shrimp, squid, mussels, clams, bell peppers and savory wet Spanish rice.
After lunch, we took a taxi back to our hotel and had a brief rest before heading to the gym for an afternoon workout. Once we checked that off our list, we went back to our room to get ready for dinner.
The economic disparity mentioned in our city tour became readily apparent when we decided to walk to dinner in the Old City at night. Though it was wonderful to see how the locals spent their leisure time, seeing the street activities, the hordes of people with their friends and family, walking through dark and ominous alleyways was a stark contrast to our dinner experience at Cande which was the most upscale restaurant we visited.
All the patrons were dressed to the nines, men were required to wear closed toe shoes and some of the women even brought their designer bags. The venue oozed of privilege.
We were served with a starter of what appeared to be a donut. It was warm, sugary with a hint of anise. It had a slightly mealy texture and was incredibly unique.
The appetizer guiso de mariscos del Mercado seafood stew was delicious, had a creamy tomato base with perfectly cooked pieces of shrimp, conch and squid.
My crab dish was savory with almost a stew like consistency alongside the chunks of crab. The red sauce added a bit of bitterness to each bite.
My husband’s fish dish was cheesy and a bit more dense with shredded potatoes on top of the sweet black coconut rice. What followed was my husband’s review of his entree. “It’s the best dish I’ve ever had. Every bite is just great. Deliciouso!”
For dessert, the coconut pie was served warm and was literally just shreds of coconut. The chocolate drops added a bittersweet bite. The ice cream was tart which was an interesting contrast but might have been too overpowering for the dish. Vanilla may have been a more complimentary option.
In addition to the delicious food, there were several performers and dancers who meandered throughout the restaurant wearing vibrant over-the top costumes which was quite entertaining and made for a lively and festive dinner experience.
The next morning, we decided to head to the fort. I considered walking, but it was a really warm morning. When we arrived downstairs, the concierge mentioned that the white and green vehicles often parked in the hotel’s driveway were the most honest of all rideshares in the city. The drivers have a fixed rate regardless of time and traffic. He offered us a ride in one that was available, and we headed off to our destination.
Once we paid for our entrance tickets, we opted to hire a tour guide on site. Ulysses was an older gentleman who had a lot of zest and enthusiasm in the city’s history. Cartagena was the second oldest city in Colombia and established in 1533. He mentioned that the fort was designed from top to bottom by a Dutch architect named Richard Carr. There were seven small forts inside the big fort with 65 cannons. The Spanish came and took the gold, silver and emeralds from the Indians and shipped them to Spain. From then on out, the city was plagued with pirates robbing the city and Spain, France and England besieged Cartagena with battles for control of the city. The fort was built as a means for the Spanish and Cartagenans to protect their families and homes. During one of the battles, they had a stroke of luck when the British drank water and got diarrhea, yellow fever, malaria and tropical disease. However, for the other attacks, the fort had very strategically placed defenses at various levels. There were areas where soldier could hide and shoot from a concealed area or angles which shielded the shooters from being seen by intruders above.
The soldiers spent months in the tunnel adjusting to the darkness so they would have the advantage of finding their way in times of battle.
Each section of the fort had canons specifically pointed in certain strategic angles for maximum protection. Some canons were designed to move left to right which gave them more flexibility in warding off attackers. It was a fascinating education and insight into how the people came together to protect their city from invaders.
After our tour, we got a ride back into town to have a much more humble and reasonably priced lunch at 1595. It had a beautiful courtyard which had outdoor tables. Luckily, they also had air-conditioned indoor dining available. We ordered from their lunch menu.
The soup had a really nice savory flavor as it had beef bone, potatoes, celery, carrots, pepper. It reminded me of traditional Filipino soups that cooked on the stove for hours.
My fish entree was almost like a fish chowder, thick and creamy with celery and onions. Accompanying the lightly breaded fish filet was a large serving of rice, a small salad and possibly red sweetened plantains.
My husband’s chicken and mushroom was also exceptional. The chicken breast had been pounded and cooked in a creamy mushroom sauce.
The rest of the accompaniments were the same.
We were also served a small serving of a refreshing jello dessert.
After lunch, we had our first of two massages at Uraku Spa. I had a massage from a pregnant lady who was phenomenal. My husband and I each opted for the 90-minute deep tissue massage and by the time we headed out, we were utterly relaxed.
We took a taxi back to our hotel and had a snack in the hotel’s lounge and brief rest before getting ready for dinner.
Originally, we had dinner reservations at Mardeleva which was renowned for their coconut shrimp but during our city tour, we met a family who had recently dined at Carmen and gave it rave reviews. I had read about it but thought it was a bit expensive but hearing them describe the dishes, I opted to try to put us on the waitlist. After we were dropped off in front of Mardeleva, I received a WhatsApp notification that a table was available for us at Carmen. Luckily, the restaurant wasn’t too far away so we practically ran to get there on time.
Carmen was like a beautiful jewelry box, and we were fortunately seated in their outdoor Spanish courtyard where we could listen to the musicians during our dinner service.
The complimentary plantain with fish and coffee tasted more like a dessert than a starter. It tasted sour but with a strong coffee undercurrent and also a bit tart. One would never think to pair all these three flavors together but it worked and was exceptional!!
The fish had a slightly crisp exterior, immersed in a coconut sauce with a risotto which was perfectly al dente.
The short rib was tender, served with a sprinkling of chives giving it a sweet flavor. The mashed potatoes beneath had a creamy texture with an oyster aftertaste. It was yet another fantastic dining experience in the Old City.
On our fourth day, we decided to take the morning off and just lounge at the hotel. We ate breakfast, worked out at the gym and then lounged and ate lunch by the pool. The lower level pool was much more expansive and had a bar and restaurant adjoining it. It was really nice to just decompress and enjoy the hotel and its amenities.
Later in the afternoon, we headed back into town for a walking tour of Getsemani. It was a transitional neighborhood which had beautifully vibrant murals and a very lively local scene.
We watched a group of guys playing dominoes, saw artists selling their work and observed patrons visiting the local restaurants and bars. Our tour guide even took us to his home where we watched his grandson play soccer in the streets. He shared that at one point, the area was populated with drug dealers and in a calculated measure to push them out and make it more habitable, they put up the beautiful umbrellas at the top of the street where the drugs were being sold and built a playground around the corner, creating a more festive and family-oriented neighborhood where parents could feel safe raising their kids.
After our tour, we walked over to our dinner reservation at El Arsenal.
They had my name on a lit tablet at the table reserved for us which was a lovely touch.
Since it was a rum bar, we did sample a few. For dinner, we started with the seared sesame tuna with salad. The ahi seared tuna was a dish I made at home on a weekly basis, and I have to say my homemade version was better and more flavorful. However, the orzo was spectacular. It had cheese and veggies, and was really herbaceous. The steak was fine, a bit thick but still tender. The chicken was also good but not great. Overall, El Arsenal was fine but compared with the other exceptional restaurants, it left a bit to be desired. The staff though, was incredibly hospitable and gracious during our visit.ß
Our last full day in Cartagena was New Year’s Eve, and we headed back into the Old City too try out Mardeleva which we spontaneously skipped the other evening in favor of the last-minute reservation at Carmen. Unfortunately, as luck would have it, Mardeleva was closed for lunch as it was preparing for the New Year’s Eve dinner service. Luckily, we ran into Elis, our boisterous city tour guide, and she recommended Mistura which was around the corner.
There was a short line outside the restaurant, because it wasn’t yet open. Once the doors opened, they began seating people immediately. They asked us if we had a reservation which we did not, but they sat us anyways. Seeing the dining room quickly fill up, we ordered right away.
The fried plantain starter was crisp and lightly salted which somehow negated the sweetness.
The shrimp appetizer was served atop a cornbread unlike any I’ve ever tasted. It almost reminded me of a polenta cake.
The shrimp was nice, plump and smoky and the creamy tangy sauce had a bit of an earthy flavor from the chives and a bit of saltiness from stripes of bacon softened by the coconut cream.
The rice dish was phenomenal. The oyster sauce gave it a dark tint and a bit of saltiness and the mushrooms made it super creamy. The shrimp had parmesan sprinkled throughout. If there was a perfect dish, this would be it. The choreography of the service was unparalleled. There were two members of the staff who stood against the window and wall who were assigned the watch the tables and clear as necessary. Mistura was a phenomenal dining experience.
After lunch, we headed to our second and final massage at Uraku which once again was blissfully relaxing. Then we headed back to the hotel to get ready and went back out to the Old City for our evening’s festivities.
For our New Year’s Eve dinner, we opted to dine on the rooftop at Mar Y Zielo. The year prior, I had done some research on the most cost-effective dinners in town and the restaurant had received high marks for its value and quality. I had prepaid for the dinner so there was nothing to do but enjoy the food and the atmosphere.
The complimentary bread was nutty and the spread gave it a creamy texture.
The first starter was a nice crispy pop of something with a creamy hummus type side.
The second starter was akin to a chicken empanada which was tender and savory. The banana leaf rice dish was nice and savory and tasted like it was mixed with beans. I tasted a bit of beef once I delved more into it.
At one point, the chef of the evening who was flown in from Bogota came out to greet us which was a very pleasant surprise.
To top off the night, we were treated to a spectacular fireworks show at midnight with all the patrons ending up dancing around the restaurant in merriment. Not wanting to be up too late as our flight was scheduled for the next morning, we started heading out and noticed that the entire restaurant shared the same menu and that every table was fully. The merriment was definitely in full swing on the streets of the Old City as well. Restaurants had long tables in the middle of the road, people were dancing and partying on the streets, and it was such a festive vibe.
Looking back, Cartagena is probably one of my favorite cities. We thoroughly enjoyed learning about their history, seeing the sights and enjoying their exceptional culinary delights. However, I do recognize that Cartagena is not for everybody. There are definitely some unsavory characters and sketchy areas, but that can be said about many cosmopolitan cities. Cartagena just had an energy that can only be described as pulsating, spirited and strong willed. Looking forward to returning in the very near future!
Our first time visiting the beautiful island of Curacao was well over 15 years ago as a cruise port. I remember being mesmerized by the colorful buildings set in juxtaposition to the waterway. It was the first time I was exposed to the Dutch architecture and colorway and something about those buildings and their bright pastel colors just made me happy.
When the opportunity to return to the island presented itself, we immediately seized it. It was Christmas 2021, and we were on holiday at Sandals Antigua. It was our first Sandals experience, and they offered a substantial discount to book the next vacation while on-site. Sandals Royal Curacao had not yet opened and the cost was a fraction of what we had spent on the Antigua vacation so we placed a small deposit and planned our next adventure.
It wasn’t until October of 2022 that I started plotting our holiday vacation. I read on online that driving in Curacao was seamless. We didn’t need an international driver license, and everybody raved about Just Drive Curacao as the best car rental company on the island. I booked a car online and received a confirmation that payment would be due on arrival.
Upon arriving at the airport, we exited the terminal, veered right, walked until the sidewalk ended and crossed the street to the rental car shuttle pickup spot. After about a 10–15-minute wait, we were picked up by the shuttle, driven a few minutes away and dropped off in front of the office while our bags were placed in the trunk of our rental. The transaction was seamless. We headed into the office, signed a few forms, was advised which app to use for our navigation and off we went. It took a bit over an hour to get to the resort as it was rush-hour traffic, and the roads were quite narrow.
The Sandals Royal Curacao resort was ensconced in a secure secluded gated community. We were allowed to park for free in the parking lot to the right side of the resort’s main lobby. It took a few minutes for us to be attended to as several people were checking in at the same time. Once everything was squared away, we headed to the food trucks oceanside for some much-needed sustenance.
We ordered from all three trucks.
Kisha was the Asian fusion truck which offered bao, bowls and curries.
We selected the yakiniku beef which was savory but the meat was a bit tough.
The chicken bao was fluffy and the chicken was tender but the Asian flavor and seasonings were a bit off.
From La Palma, we ordered the patatas brava which were crispy and smoky, served with tangy aioli. We also ordered the gambas al ajillo.
The perfectly cooked shrimp had a bit of heat from the chili.
My personal favorite though was the steak I ordered from Toteki as it was lightly seasoned, tender and served with crispy fries.
There was a bar in the same section as the food trucks so we took it as a sign to order our first vacation drink.
After unpacking, settling in and getting a bit of a rest, we headed to Gatsu Gatsu, the Japanese sushi restaurant, for our first dinner. We started with a few appetizers.
The chicken karaage was lightly battered and given a bit more umph by the chili sauce.
The tempura was expertly fried with a crispy exterior retaining a moist interior.
We also ordered a ramen bowl which was served with a thinly sliced savory sliver of pork set in the creamy milky broth.
Next up was the spicy tuna hand roll which was quite traditionally prepared. The ahi albacore salad had a bit of pop as it was topped with masago eggs giving it a slightly salty bite and had a bit of silkiness from the sesame dressing. The salmon sashimi was a bit thicker than the norm but it was surprisingly tender due to the sushi chef’s expert knife skills. The seared tuna carpaccio was served with a bright pink middle and was extra spicy due to the wasabi but unfortunately, the texture wasn’t quite on point as the carpaccio was sliced too thick. Next up was the lobster roll which was densely packed with the various ingredients and served with a tangy sauce on top. We also ordered a salmon roll which was on par with the quality of the lobster. The creamy pepper jack roll which was unique and cheesier than the other two rolls though clearly not traditional Japanese fare. Of everything we sampled, the ramen, spicy tuna hand roll and salad were my favorites from our dinner.
On our first full day at the resort, we opted to have breakfast at Aolos, the beachside restaurant.
The quality of my breakfast steak was similar to the prior day’s meal from the food truck. I asked for cheese to be added to the side of eggs I ordered which gave it a creamier texture. The accompanying hash browns were served piping hot and crispy.
My husband ordered a shrimp, mushroom, spinach, pepper, pepper jack cheese omelet which was dense and packed with flavor.
We spent the morning checking out the manmade beach area. Some of the beach chairs were shielded from the sun by thatched huts.
The strip of sand also had kayaks, and there were a few round large mesh floaties in the middle of the water. The water was a bit chilly at first but with the hot sun, we acclimated shortly thereafter. The downside was the lack of clarity of the water so after a while we hopped onto a few of the mesh floaties and chatted with a few of the other guests.
For lunch, we opted to dine at The Strand which was located beachside of the resort.
We started off with a cobb salad which was served with fresh crisp lettuce, bacon bits, a sliced hard-boiled egg and lightly seasoned grilled chicken breast.
The appetizer of choice was the bittenballen which was quite unique and was similar to a hush puppy but had a creamy savory filling. Our server mentioned that it was a local favorite but sadly, it did not resonate with our taste buds.
The grilled fish was a thick fillet which was served with a cream sauce and capers. Oddly, the fish seemed a bit tough or perhaps not completely thawed out in the middle.
The jerk chicken was a decent portion and was as spicy as one would expect. The Strand was fine, but service was rather slow.
After the midday meal, we ventured into the gym for our daily workout. As the resort officially opened just six months prior, the equipment still looked new, except for one piece of equipment which seemed to be a bit sticky.
We started off with a short cardio workout on the side-by-side ellipticals and then did a full upper body set using machines and free weights.
After an hour, we headed back to our room to change for our favorite leisure activity at the resort: hanging out at the infinity pool.
That evening, as return customers, we were invited to a loyalty dinner which began with sunset cocktails and outdoor music as well as photo sessions. We were then escorted to one of the ballrooms where there was a presentation throughout the dinner applauding the various levels of loyalty. We were served from a prix fixe menu which seemed fine but nothing stood out as exemplary.
The starter carrot soup wouldn’t have been my first choice but it was quite creamy and sweet. The croutons added a bit of crunch.
My substitution request for the melon salad was just a regular salad.
The lobster was pretty good but the steak was an inferior cut of beef, tough and fatty with very little edible meat. The mashed potatoes were creamy and had a bit of sweetness from the carrot purée sauce.
The cheesecake on its own was phenomenal but the popcorn served alongside was odd and bitter. I took the meringue off of the dish as it didn’t seem like a good pairing for the dessert. The dark chocolate though was quite good.
Because we didn’t feel we experienced enough umami, we opted for a second dinner at Gatsu. We ordered a solid favorite, the shrimp tempura, as well as the savory shrimp wonton soup and the prior night’s spicy tuna hand roll as well as the crisp shrimp tempura hand roll, the seared tuna roll and salmon lover roll. All were pretty good though I think the hand rolls were superior.
New to us and not available the night before was the chicken and beef ishiyaki. Both were solid and required some self-grilling.
My husband ended the meal with 3 sampler mochis which he enjoyed.
The next morning we had our first breakfast at Pietra and sampled from their breakfast buffet and their made-to-order omelet station. The food was solid fare but the best part was the orange juice machine by the beverage stand and being able to watch the juice squeezed from the oranges and poured into your glass.
After breakfast, we headed out for our first self-guided island exploration. It took just under half an hour for us to drive to Mambo Beach from Sandals which was a fairly easy drive with very little traffic at that early hour. Parking was plentiful, and the area was easy to navigate. We chose the beachfront restaurant, Riley for its proximity from the walkway and the restroom by the main entrance as well as for its well- stocked bar and its well-equipped beach which had thatched huts shielding the beach chairs.
We paid $5 per chair and $3.50 each for admittance to the beach. We were greeted by a lovely gentleman who would be our server during our stay.
Rider served us our burger with fries and chicken quesadilla. The pigeons hovered aggressively and unsuccessfully made attempts to hop onto our beach chairs to have a few nibbles of our meals.
The water was quite chilly upon entering but became refreshing as the day wore on. Overall, Mambo was a winner, and we would definitely recommend a trek to this beachside community.
We returned to the resort to unwind and ready ourselves for dinner at Pietra.
Our beef lasagne was perfectly cooked, savory and herbaceous with a creamy tomato base.
The chicken parmesan had an abundant amount of spaghetti with crispy moist chicken which was breaded heavily like a fried chicken breast. The tomato sauce was plentiful and added a nice contrast.
After dinner, we caught the tail end of the beach show which was a tribute to the 80s.
There was a Michael Jackson stage performance and then there was a piano sing-along in the main bar followed by shots with new friends.
At around 10:30 p.m. we ordered a pizza from Pietra which was right below the main bar and had it as a late-night snack, soaking up all the alcohol we had ingested.
The next morning, for breakfast, we once again dined at the breakfast buffet at Pietra after which we took a quick morning nap before heading to the gym for our daily workout.
Then we headed back to Pietra for lunch. The order took close to 40 minutes to arrive and they all came at the same time.
The mahi mahi was a thick filet, perfectly cooked with fries crispy.
The shrimp Caesar had a lot of Parmesan cheese sprinkles throughout but not heavily dressed, and the shrimp was cooked just long enough that it wasn’t transparent.
The cheese ravioli was the standout with a super creamy gooey ricotta center.
After our lunch, we readied ourselves for our late afternoon adventure in town.
I had previously booked a free walking tour of Punda Vibes which only occurred in the late afternoon/evening on Thursdays in the center of town. We met our guide, Gabriel, who gave us a very detailed history of the background of the island.
He mentioned that the island was embroiled in the battle for wealth and dominance in the English, Dutch and French wars. The other side of the waterway had slaves from Venezuela, St. Maarten and Africa. The Punda Vibes side housed the Governor, delineating a socioeconomic divide in the island’s early history. The rule of the land in olden times was each married couple was obligated to have 2 boys and 2 girls at a minimum. Gabriel also shared that the Jewish side of that part of town had different and stricter laws which resulted in some instances sentencing offenders to two years in prison. There once was a prison which in current day is now a bank. Though Curacao no longer has a prison, if one commits a crime in present day, that person is forced to get a tattoo to let others know that he/she has committed an offense akin to the “Scarlett Letter.” The local language on the island in present day is a combination of all the languages: Dutch, English, Portuguese, Spanish.
The island’s current doctors are either Dutch or Colombian and speak Latin. Nurses also have to speak and understand Latin and be able to translate the doctor’s orders or advice to the patient’s dialect. After our tour, we thanked Gabriel for the education and headed back to the resort.
We chose Zuka for dinner that Thursday evening.
The tortilla soup had a thick tomato base with a bit of cheese.
Our starter quesadilla had a jalapeño flavor but fortunately wasn’t overly spicy.
The ceviche was my favorite as it was light, fresh and citrusy. Our entrees arrived shortly thereafter.
On my dish, the pork skin was crispy and both the pork meat and short rib were tender.
My husband’s chicken entrée was sumptuous and moist with tomato and celery flavorings.
Our third shared entrée, the red snapper was a thick cut, served crispy on the outside but had a flaky interior. Its chorizo accompaniment was tasty as well.
The first dessert was like pillows of heaven with a tart aftertaste. It was called pastelists de guayaba.
The second dessert, the apple fig colada, was refreshing and served as a palate cleanser of sorts.
Our third dessert, the tres leches had a light texture and was sprinkled with coconut shreds.
The next day, Friday, we headed out for our longest road trip in Curacao to the north west section.
First, after an hour on the road, we parked our car on the side of the road and crossed the narrow street to check out the local flamingos. We were going to check out the turtles on the other side of the island but as it turns out, the road was closed so we headed to our third destination, Grote Knip. We had no issues finding our way, thanks to our local navigation app.
There was plenty of parking and once we were at the top of the hill, we looked down and could see the magnificent almost fluorescent blue waters below us. I had never seen that deep of a turquoise color before and collectively, we have been to many Caribbean, south Pacific and Asian beaches. It literally was the color of a blue curacao drink.
We made our way down to the beach and paid the fee for the beach chairs and umbrella.
Once we were settled, I headed up to the snack bar up the hill.
I ordered a double burger which honestly tasted like fake meat.
Fortunately, I had selected the chicken plate with salad for my husband which was a much better selection.
It was incredibly relaxing being there and in hindsight, we should have brought our snorkel gear or rented a pair because that was an excellent location for exploring the underwater sights. After about an hour or so, I noticed that the dark, ominous clouds headed in our direction and decided to head back to the resort. Just as we reached the car, the sky opened up and started to pour. As with all tropical destinations, the rain was short lived and dissipated as we were leaving.
After some R&R at the resort, we headed to Butch’s for dinner.
The bacon on my dish was incredibly tender and savory, no knife needed, and had the perfect melding of flavors and texture. The warm salad served alongside was a pretend healthy accompaniment as the volume of bacon far outweighed any healthy aspirations.
The shrimp appetizer was perfectly cooked and garlicky.
The crabcake, as my husband pointed out, had an excessive amount of breading but the crab meat portion was quite good.
The filet was tender, juicy and perfectly cooked at medium and the lobster was unbelievably tender and moist.
The truffle fries were spectacularly crispy, and the brussels sprouts were tender.
The wrapped chicken breast was surprisingly fully cooked and moist.
The mushroom tasted earthy, juicy and savory, and the mashed potatoes which we quickly devoured and forgot to capture on camera were incredibly creamy and buttery.
The chocolate sin cake had three layers: the top was a light mousse, the middle was a slightly bitter dense section and the bottom was a crispy crust. The vanilla ice cream which accompanied it had a nearly spongy texture.
Saturday morning we headed to Willemsted for our second walking tour which coincidentally was once again with our prior guide, Gabriel.
He shared a few fun facts about that side of the island. 1) The right side of the plaza was Italy. The left side was deemed as Paris. 2) Sushi translated means trash or poop. 3) Laraja tree is where blue Curacao comes from. 4) On Otrabande, when the Dutch bought half of Punda, the Jewish people moved across the waterway and established their businesses on the other side where they sold their wares for a fraction to sell to the slaves who lived on that side of the island.
To save on daily expenses, the Jewish business owners lived above their businesses.
Near the end of the tour, we observed the opening and closing of the bridge and watched as some people foolishly tried to run across to make it to the other side which was amusing and infuriating at the same time.
A bit tired and hungry, we opted to stay for a bite at La Boheme and invited our guide to join us for lunch.
The food was quite good but during lunch, we experienced another downpour and had to switch to a more shielded table as we were seated outside, exposed to the elements. Again, it didn’t last very long and as soon as it stopped raining, the sun came out in full force.
That night, which was Christmas Eve, we had a 7 p.m. reservation for dinner at Vincent. Upon arriving, we knew that we’d be on the slow roll as we arrived at 7:10 p.m., 10 minutes late for our reservation, and nobody came to greet us til 7:17. By 7:58 p.m., our orders had not been taken.
Crystal, the restaurant’s bartender, had served us 2 vodka martinis at that point as a pre-apology. I walked across to complain at Club Sandals that at 7:58 p.m. we hadn’t been greeted by our server or had our orders taken let alone received bread service which eventually arrived at 8:14 p.m., almost an hour after being seated. At some point during my walks to Club Sandals, I stopped a server who immediately took our order. It was as if the servers didn’t know which tables were theirs or were advised by the hostess that their section had been seated.
Starters arrived at 8:19 pm.
The mushroom bisque was quite good and savory.
The beef bresaola was the proper texture and a bit salty.
The petite iceberg was crisp and fresh, served with a side of tasty bacon.
By 8:51 p.m., no entrees had arrived. Nearly 2 hours after being seated, at 9 p.m., our main dishes were served.
My sole meuniere was good, flaky, lightly breaded, and fries were perfectly crispy. The sprinkling of mini shrimp atop were nice and plump.
My husband’s steak was tender and juicy and the mashed potatoes were incredibly creamy.
Liza, a manager or supervisor, came over at 9:10 p.m. and by that point, I was screaming at how terrible the service was, and she was pleading with me to keep the voice down. I told her to talk to the lobby of people waiting as I let them know they should just leave or expect to eat by midnight, and I pointed out that she didn’t stop by earlier when she spoke with the diners seated at the tables alongside ours when she initially entered the premises and that perhaps if somebody had made a scene earlier, things wouldn’t have deteriorated as they had. I asked why nobody had communicated to the guests that it would be a 3 hour wait, that perhaps they overbooked the restaurant, or maybe the menu was too ambitious and couldn’t be served during a normal dinner service. Were they short staffed? If so, they should communicate and let guests know that perhaps they should dine elsewhere. As it was, we were missing the 9 p.m. show. She advised me that the manager would be speaking with us during breakfast service and asked for our room number and when we would be dining at Butch’s in the morning.
Dessert arrived at 9:35 pm. The marshmallow was quite chewy, as it should be. The chocolate pot de creme had a bit of liquor aftertaste.
The profiterole was fine but nothing to write home about.
On our last full day at the resort, Christmas Day, we headed to Butch’s, where we previously had our fantastic steakhouse dinner. The coffee at Butch’s is different from the other breakfast establishments on the resort. The orange juice was refreshing though it’s not freshly squeezed like at Pietra. Troy’s parfait was beautifully presented and his omelet was cooked perfectly. My breakfast hash was quite tasty and was a fairly generous portion. Troy finished off with a yummy apple short stack Paula was our server and she was beyond lovely. To close the loop from the night prior, no manager arrived to discuss our dinner at Vincent.
For lunch, we ate at Pietra. The tomato soup was piping hot and the crispy croutons were a nice accompaniment. My cheeseburger was perfectly cooked with extra crispy bacon. Troy’s cobb salad had a perfect ratio of bacon, tomato, chicken, egg and lettuce. His mac n cheese was stellar and had a bit of bite from the red bell pepper. The chocolate cake was light and airy. The fruit tarte was creamy with shredded coconut sprinkles.
For our pre-dinner snack, we headed back to where we started our culinary journey: the food trucks. From the Spanish tapa truck emerged a paella which tasted like it was cooked in chicken broth with the shrimp adding a bit of texture and protein. From Toteki, we ordered a polenta cake was crisp and fish had a tomato and bell pepper flavor.
On our last night, we once again dined at Pietra. The spaghetti and meatballs were savory. The alfredo was very creamy and eggy. Our salmon was moist, tender and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper.
In sum, Sandals Royal Curacao is my favorite of all-inclusive resorts we have ever visited.
Sandals in general is the top tier of all similar resorts but our experience in Curacao, except for one unfortunate dinner experience at Vincent and few delays at other dining venues, was filled with exceptionally attentive, courteous and friendly interactions with the staff. The positivity in Curacao alone elevated our stay. It made for a very merry Christmas!
Here’s my secret for finding the new restaurant eats: I subscribe to Eater and Infatuation and I regularly receive emails of openings and reviews. However, and no offense to my fellow foodies, but I have a different standard, and I don’t always agree with their recos. On the Xuntos front, I’m 100% “aligned” which by the way is ad agency/marketing speak, now that I’m professionally back in that sphere.
Xuntos is located in Downtown Santa Monica which, in my teens and 20s, was one of my favorite hangouts. Now part of the area has been surrendered to and relegated to the homeless encampments while the oceanside still caters to the elite. Walking to Xuntos with my Lady Dior from the public parking garage on 4th made me reevaluate my luxury bag choice for the night. However, upon arriving at the restaurant, I was very pleasantly surprised at the upscale environment.
My husband was already seated as I dropped him off to locate parking.
When I arrived, my husband’s wine choice for me was promptly served. It was their driest white wine offering which had a bit of zest and grapefruit tartness.
The complimentary olive starter served with the drinks had a bit of kick with a peppercini flavor.
We started off with the ham and grilled cheese sandwich. The “bikini jamon” was phenomenal! Cheesy, gooey, slightly sweet, with shaved sweet slices of jamon in the center. We ended up ordering two because it was that good!
Next up was the gazpacho which was delicious, refreshing, creamy, tart, a bit sour with hints of the freshness of cucumber, truly unique and perfect for a hot summer day.
Our first main dish was the garlic shrimp which was beautifully presented, steaming hot with sliced baguette on the side. The shrimp had a bit of heat and the oil from the pan served as a nice dipping sauce for the bread. The shrimp was small but plump and tender.
Next up was the squid ink pasta which was creamy, tart from the lemon juice and tomato purée.
The patatas bravas were served piping hot, crispy with a drizzle of sour cream, chives and tomato purée.
The finale was the steak which was lightly salted, tender and juicy, with a bit of chimichurri herbs, caper sauce and rock salt on top.
All the menu items from start to finish were exceptional. It’s been a while since all the notes, from the service to the quality of the food, hit all the right marks. As my childhood piano teacher would say after an excellent performance, three gold stars to Xuntos!
At the beginning of the year, I made a list of local restaurants that we hadn’t dined at which seemed interesting. The list has grown exponentially as restaurants have opened throughout the year. Tapizon was added to the list early on but we somehow never made it there until recently and what a pleasant surprise it was. First, it’s in the pocket of what looks like middle town USA in the heart of a El Segundo. The exterior of the restaurant has an entire wall that was a beautiful colorful mural.
The interior of the restaurant looked like a little jewel box. We came on a Saturday as I saw online that they had live performers. The bossa nova vibes combined with the beautiful decor made it seem like we were whisked away to a more exotic land.
After drinks were ordered and served, our starters arrived shortly thereafter.
The Caesar salad was creamy, cheesy with seeds which added a bit of earthiness to it.
The black bean soup was the better starter between the two as it was hearty and robust with flavor with a bit of tartness.
My husband’s grilled chicken was quite savory, chock full of flavor and tender. The coconut rice was fluffy and mildly flavored.
My fries were herbaceous and crispy. The brisket tasted smoky and was incredibly tender and the brown rice provided a nice bed for the beef juices. The silkiness of the beans and the creamy yolk worked in harmony with the rest of the dish.
We also received a complimentary dessert. The injera style flatbread was a bit chewy, warm, almost had an English muffin texture. It was served with ice cream, berries in the middle, chocolate drizzled on top and some whipped cream on the side, definitely unique and a dessert unlike no other and not overly sweet.
Tapizon is definitely a great value dinner experience, and we would jump at the chance to return. The owner, Eric, came by and chatted with us for a while.
He had a military background and flew planes which explained the plane fountain at the front of the restaurant. Eric was a New York transplant and had previously not been familiar with El Segundo but all that changed when the property became available and he decided to set up shop. We didn’t discuss how he came up with the restaurant’s concept but we are sure glad he decided to make El Segundo and Tapizon his next project as it was definitely a hidden neighborhood gem that we are happy to share with as many people who will listen.
Best Bet is housed on Washington Blvd in the former AFrame location. I didn’t realize the new restaurant was opening until the weekend prior when I was heading to Handy J for a car wash and I tried for nearly a week to get a dinner reservation. Luckily, the reservation gods deemed me worthy enough to get a spot, and the plan was hatched to try out Bet Bet for our Friday dinner. I dropped off my husband prior to looking for parking as I knew it would take a while but upon entering the restaurant, we were immediately seated, and shortly thereafter, our orders were taken.
Our drinks arrived first followed shortly by the dishes.
The fried chicken was served lukewarm, was incredibly juicy and cheesy with a bit of sweetness which was a bit surprising.
The garlic knots were served piping hot and had a crispy garlicky exterior. Its accompanying tomato sauce dip was a bit chunky and tart.
The meatballs were fire, literally mouth on fire from the temperature. The herbaceous tender morsels of meat were served in a bed of cheesy sauce which my husband commented was similar to a fondue.
The cacio e peppe had a bit of a salty bite from the pink peppercorn and was served al dente.
The Godzilla pizza was perfect, hit all the right notes, smoky, savory, meaty and silky.
The enigma, to be honest, was not our favorite. It was missing a crucial ingredient, like perhaps bits of garlic shrimp in the interior as it was just a calzone with pesto filling which oozed out as soon the crispy exterior was pulled apart. The crust had a dense black sesame and white rock salt exterior which made it a bit more interesting but otherwise, the dish was a miss. Bellies full, we passed on dessert.
What made our dining experience exemplary was the attentiveness and response time of the staff. Although they had been open only a few days, they worked seamlessly and in unison with each other, from the two hostesses, our server and the two restaurant managers helping clear tables. It felt like a well-oiled machine rather than a newbie to the neighborhood. All in all, we thought the restaurant was a hit and would happily return with friends.
So glad we were able to visit during its opening week as we met Chef Jason Neroni and his wife who shared that they only allow reservations for half the restaurant and left the other half for walk-ins from people in the neighborhood. Truly a Best Bet for the city!
I had been wanting to try out Granville and even made a reservation or two only to cancel and push to a later date. At long last, we finally made our way to the WeHo establishment one Friday evening. It took us about 25 minutes to drive to the establishment and another 2 minutes to locate the valet parking which was behind the restaurant.
In Granville’s former life, it housed the now defunct Jerry’s Deli. On my last visit, Jerry Seinfeld was sitting in a corner booth, cracking jokes loudly for all to hear. Today, Granville is an expansive beautiful elevated casual restaurant with a gorgeous bar in the section where Jerry was ensconced with several areas allocated for dining.
Upon checking in for our reservation, we were asked by the hostess to wait while two other parties were seated. It only took a few minutes before we were escorted to our table.
Our server promptly greeted us and asked for our drink orders. When it was time to place our dinner order, as we were torn between a few dishes, we asked for her recommendations.
The first reco was the cheese toast and when dipped into the accompanying tomato bisque, it reminded me of happy childhood dreams. Even though we had asked for no onions, the grilled cheese sandwich was served with them, but somehow we didn’t mind as it gave the toast a bit of a sweet aftertaste. The tomato bisque had little chunks of tomato and was very mildly seasoned.
The next starter was the Brussels sprouts which had a dense center and a silky layer with a smoky, bitter aftertaste, served with slivers of almonds which added a bit of nuttiness to the dish. There was also a hint of citrusy sweetness which softened the bite of the dish.
The next recommendation was the bacon cheeseburger. I opted for a lettuce wrap. The smoked mozzarella was melted onto the medium cooked beef patty which was incredibly juicy and flavorful. The bacon was thick and well done. A small brown bag of uber crispy chips was served alongside the burger and was one of the best iterations of homemade chips I’ve ever tasted at a restaurant.
The third recommendation, which was the best of the bunch, was the ahi tuna dish. It arrived beautifully presented. In the center of the dish were two thick tuna filets which were beautifully pink in the middle and seared on the outside which was evenly coated with sesame seeds. The noodles added a nice soy flavor to the dish as well as a bit of heat. It was a delicious savory dish.
Granville is an elevated casual eatery. As their menu states, “come as you are.” They welcome a very attractive upwardly mobile but understated clientele. If that suits your mood, then we would highly recommend a dining experience for you at Granville. It can’t be beat!!
The newly opened 33 Taps has a very different vibe from its former iteration, City Tavern. Under new owners, the local sports bar offers a wide beer selection and a a small but varied food menu. There are two points of entry into the restaurant, from the back on Washington or from the front, on Culver. Upon entering at 5:30 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon, the middle section of the bar was packed with 20-30 somethings excitedly and happily chatting with their group of friends. This was a very different vibe from City Tavern which at 5 o’clock had to entice people with a happy hour menu. I noticed that the young crowd favored drinking to eating and the booths were filled with a slightly older crowd enjoying actual meals along with adult beverages. Upon being seated, my husband was asked for a credit card, requested to order everything by scanning the QR code and ordering through the platform. Once ordered, the beverages and food came out quickly.
Our first starter, the Brussels sprouts, had a slightly bitter smoky flavor but were perfectly cooked, not too crispy and not too mushy.
My husband’s chicken burrito arrived with chips and dipping sauces. The chicken burrito was beautifully presented with a nice nice cilantro sauce intermixed.
My lettuce wrap burger had a perfectly cooked beef patty covered by a thick crisp lettuce leaf and adorned with crunchy tater tots. Though the bacon could have been crispier, the mushrooms on top of the patty were plentiful, savory and silky and the Swiss cheese was melted onto the burger which was seasoned to perfection.
I was hesitant as 33 Taps’ menu seemed limited but what we ordered was expertly prepared and presented so no complaints on that front. 33 Taps is walk in only which could become problematic during peak dining times but if they can maintain the level of service from the kitchen staff to the servers, it will be a quick turnaround on orders once seated. We would happily return to this local haunt and are happy they’ve joined the neighborhood!
Reservations at Ann’s Wine Bar had eluded me in our prior visits to the Hollywood Bowl. I somehow missed the window to reserve prior to the event and by the time I figured it out, either they were fully booked or the available times were during the show. By some miracle, I happened to check Open Table five weeks prior to the concert and booked the first available reservation seating. On the day of the event, we arrived at the gate 30 minutes before our reservation. I found out after waiting a bit that the gates were opening at 6 p.m. but nobody would be allowed in prior to that time except the VIP for the separate party next to the entrance. Once we were allowed to enter, we were about 15 minutes late for our reservation and shockingly, upon our arrival, many people were already seated. Luckily, our reservation wasn’t given away or cancelled, and we were seated immediately.
Unbeknownst to me, the entire venue was beer and wine only so I opted for a chilled sauvignon blanc which was actually quite lovely. There was a short wait for starters and sides, but once they were ready, they arrived one right after the other.
The salad was served slightly chilled. The lettuce was fresh and crisp. The grapefruit added a bit of tartness while the avocado gave it a bit of creaminess. The sugar snap peas were added a burst of pop and flavor.
Next up was my husband’s favorite dish. The potatoes were buttery and had a mix of mealiness and silkiness.
Third on the list was the farro which had a nice blend of sweetness from the raisin but also had a bit of heat.
There was an extended delay between the starters and the main entrees so I opted to get in line for the tour merchandise which probably took about 30 minutes to reach the front. As I was walking back up to the restaurant, the entrees were finally served.
The fried chicken was served piping hot at 7:13 pm. It was crispy, savory from the BBQ sauce with a slight tomato creaminess from the dipping sauce.
The sea bass smelled smoky and was lovely and flaky served on a bed of cool julienned strips of carrots, zucchini and beets adding a contrast of texture.
Reserving one of the first seating times was definitely the right way to go because parties lingered at their tables, and we definitely would have missed the opening act of the concert. All in all, despite the staggered service, we had a great experience and would definitely return as the quality of the food was exemplary.
The Reunion at Neuehouse looked and felt like a little jewel box in the midst of the pseudo gentrified, partial homeless encampment area known as Venice Beach. Its location was one of the more polished areas of town, and upon arrival, we asked the doorman where to park and he pointed to the parking lot halfway down the block to the left. I honestly can’t recall if the parking was $20 or $40 as we were running late, and I couldn’t be bothered to look for a “safe” free or inexpensive lot which inevitably would have led to being subjected to the skunk smell of pot or the putrid smell of urine in some seedy alleyway of the city.
Once we entered the building, it felt like we had been transported to a lavish resort in the Mediterranean. Every individual we spoke with was polished and well-mannered. That’s when I remembered the Neuehouse was first and foremost a members only social club, and it definitely showed in the service we received. Even the restroom attendant was beyond apologetic for having to service the restroom while patrons were using the facilities. We were directed to check in with the front desk who escorted us to our outdoor patio table.
We were quite pleased with the clientele as everybody looked established and refined albeit dressed in California casual chic attire. The patio was covered and had heat lamps so we were shielded from the elements which was quite lovely and made for a very comfortable dining experience.
Our server greeted us and took our drink orders which frankly took a bit longer to receive than one would have anticipated and on arrival of my martini, I was disappointed at the diminutive portion I was served, akin to all my drinks in London or in Utah, though I’ve never been to the latter.
Fortunately, the rest of the meal was quite delightful.
The bread basket had an array of various bread options, from a crispy breadstick, pre-buttered and toasted sourdough slices and doughy warm focaccia.
We ordered the organic arugula salad which had a tart, lemony, cheesy layer which balanced out the arugula’s natural bitterness.
The chicken parmesan was served piping hot, lightly breaded with traditional breadcrumbs under a thin layer of tomato based sauce and melted cheese.
Our mushroom pasta was quite savory, earthy with a hint of worcestershire sauce mixed in and sprinkled with cheese.
The potatoes were crisp and cheesy, with a hint of smoke.
Overall, we enjoyed our evening at The Reunion and we would happily return and recommend it to friends. It’s a nice upscale pocket in the heart of an otherwise unsavory part of town.
In the summer of 2022, my husband and I went on a ten-day Parisian vacation. It was curated primarily around restaurants and sites with a sprinkle of luxury shopping along the way. If I’m speaking your language, then welcome, and I hope you enjoy this very detailed itinerary as we explored Paris with our eyes, tummies and wallets.
Our first introduction to Paris’ melting pot of culture and flavors presented itself in the Marais, our home away from home. Upon checking into our VRBO, we headed out to the famed Marches Enfants Rouge.
It had previously been a children’s hospital in its former life but was transformed into an open-air farmers market where one could buy produce as well as sample some of the local eats.
Since we were still getting our bearings and the market was further away than we anticipated, we stopped off at Au Coeur du Marais where we met Clem, a fantastic bartender who upon seeing our Rolling Stones shirts, immediately comped us a drink as the Stones were his favorite band.
In addition to our first drink, the restaurant/bar was also where we had our first meal in the city. Clem ordered us an off-the menu special, a jambon et fromage baguette. It was actually quite good and very filling.
After our pre-lunch drink and snack, we headed to the market to a stall called Les Enfants du Marche which I’m sad to say was a disappointment despite all the hype.
My husband ordered a salmon and apricot entrée (28 euros), and I opted for a dry aged sirloin (35 euros) as well as a tall chilled glass of beer.
The latter was probably the best part of our order. Sadly, the salmon was lackluster and oddly flavored, and the sirloin was quite chewy and barely edible.
Disappointed but not discouraged, we headed back towards home and picked up some groceries at the store across our pied-a-terre and then unpacked and got some R&R before getting ready for our first dinner outing.
I found Datscha from the Forbes list of 20 Best Restaurants to try in Paris and opted to make it our first Parisian dinner due to its close proximity to our VRBO.
Upon entering the restaurant, we walked into a dark cavern which opened up to an expansive bright lush atrium where we were seated for our dinner experience. We lucked into a fabulous server named Aniss, who took the time to explain the highlights of the menu in English.
The flatbread had a salty pretzel type aftertaste with a hint of an oniony component.
The fried lasagna was quite unique and served in a pool of sauce with a bit of citrus, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a hint of heat from the pepper.
The coconut curry almost had the consistency of a cake with maybe some egg and a cold slightly hard cheese mixed in for a bit of texture and complexity. It was served with their version of a miniature Caesar salad. The romaine was thick, crisp but diminutive.
The monkfish was by far my favorite. It was a thick piece of filet with a creamy citrus sauce and had a bit of smoke but wasn’t overdone.
Our dessert was a tangy berry sherbet topped with a chocolatey syrup and a burnt white chocolate crust which was exceptionally unique. By 8 p.m. the restaurant was full, and there wasn’t one empty seat in the house. It was definitely quite popular with the younger, attractive, upwardly mobile crowd. The restaurant surprisingly played an eclectic selection of LA old school gangster rap ranging from Snoop, Dr. Dre and Tupac. I would describe Datscha as upscale, a definite must try if one is a foodie and looking for unique interpretations of various dishes in a unique setting.
After dinner, we decided to wander off and literally get lost.
We walked by the Centre Pompidou,
observed a few street acts,
sauntered by a few floral festooned restaurants,
stopping by one for a drink.
Then we meandered past a mall and beautiful church, and that’s where things went awry. I failed to bring my portable battery, and our router had gone dead.
We wandered the streets trying to pick up on free wifi and ended up eating a second dinner of sorts of delicious creamy bacon carbonara and fries and ordered some additional adult beverages. Despite the wifi access, we still could not figure out how to get back so by some miracle on a busy night, we were able to hail a cab. Exhausted and in a panic, we rattled off our address in broken French interspersed with English which caused our driver to give us an ultimatum: chill out or get out as our negative energy was exhausting him. That was a jolt of reality as we did need to reset. Luckily, we calmed ourselves down, he figured out where we needed to go, and he dropped us off in front of our rental.
The next morning was our first of two luxury hauls. We headed over to Coco Chanel’s original store at 31 Rue Cambon. I had tried for months to get an appointment and was unable so we planned to wait in line. By the time we arrived at 10:20 a.m., there were already two lines inside the store. As it didn’t appear to be moving, I left my husband to wait as I walked across the street to Dior where I had an 11 a.m. appointment.
I was assigned a young male sales associate who spoke impeccable English as he was a student at Columbia University and working at the store during his summer break. I selected my purse, the coordinating thin silk scarfs and charms for the bag I chose, provided my passport for the VAT refund and payment information and returned to Chanel while the Dior purchases were being packed.
An hour after initially entering Chanel, we were greeted by a female sales associate who led us to the ready to wear section as she collected the two bags that I requested. I opted for the larger of the two as it accommodated my sunglasses as well as my cardholder and a few other small items.
After another hour spent with the formalities involved in submission of the VAT refund, we headed to our final shopping destination of the day.
We had made arrangements via email to meet with a sales associate at Breitling so the process of purchasing was fairly seamless and since we put a large dent in our accounts, when we were offered a bottle of chilled vodka, we accepted gleefully and decided to celebrate early.
Needing sustenance after an arduous morning, we made our way to the famous Angelina.
There was a line to enter, but it only took about fifteen minutes and was definitely worth the wait.
Our first course was the Caesar salad which was tangy and cheesy and quite generous in size.
Next to be served was the pasta dish which was robust in flavor and complemented with a Parmesan crisp.
My fish and chips were lightly battered but tender and flaky and served with delicate, dainty, crispy fries.
For dessert, we ordered the hot white chocolate which was quite creamy and smooth and definitely a decadent treat.
The chocolate praline was a nice accompaniment and hit all the right notes: slightly bitter with a crunchy shell and a creamy middle.
After lunch, we collected my Dior purchases and then headed home for a bit of rest before getting ready for the evening.
Our second evening’s dinner was at Le Comptoir de Traboule which was a great neighborhood find.
We started with the saumon gravlax which my husband commented was sushi grade quality fish. It was served with a crispy tempura and apricot sesame sauce which gave it a slightly sweet flavor.
Next up was the soft-shell crab which was crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside and set on a green curry sauce which gave it an Asian flare.
The sliced beef tataki had an onion flavor in its dipping sauce and was seared but slightly pink in the center.
Last but definitely not least was my personal favorite dish of the night which was the asparagus with egg which had a creamy soup appearance.
We ended off our dining experience with a mug chocolate cake which was served piping hot. The inside was bittersweet, rich and gooey that it definitely gave us a jolt of caffeine.
We had 9 p.m. tickets for the Eiffel Tower so we headed out for our eight minute walk from the restaurant.
Unlike our first visit, we opted to see the city from the tower at dusk.
In late June, the sun sets at 9:46 p.m. so we had a bit of time to enjoy the view from above.
We stayed up top until the tower was lit which occurred around 10 p.m. After a few obligatory purchases from the gift shop, we made our way down so that we could see the twinkling lights from the street which began right at 11 p.m. It was magical and breathtaking and well worth the effort and the wait. We hailed a taxi and headed back for the evening.
Our third day in Paris had us heading out quite early for a guided Versailles Palace and garden tour.
Coincidentally, we headed back to an area quite close to the Eiffel Tower which was our meeting point. After a fairly short bus ride, we arrived at Versailles which already had long lines of people waiting to be admitted.
One of the upsides to a guided tour is being allowed into a less congested entrance.
The other bonus was the history lesson with our guide who pointed out specific paintings and certain pieces of furniture which were significant in the lives of those who previously inhabited the palace’s walls.
After a very detailed tour of the interior, we were given our tickets to explore the gardens.
Unfortunately, we only had one hour left and the area was so expansive that we just stayed in the area near the palace.
Because we visited on a Saturday in the summer, the gardens offered a water show at each of the designated locations.
After our Versailles visit, we hailed a taxi to take us to our lunch reservation at Chez L’Ami Jean which I accurately assessed would be the best of the best during our visit to Paris. I first heard about the restaurant from one of Phil Rosenthal’s episodes which was set in Paris.
Chef Stephane Jego was behind the kitchen the entire time with only one person helping him. Observing him from our table, he prepared every dish with precise accuracy like a surgeon.
We ordered a few items so that we would have an accurate assessment of the experience.
The first dish was a thick filet of tuna which had a smoky flavor akin to a steak but was moist and had a slightly crispy burnt texture. The peas were crisp, fresh and served with sliced beets, and both served as perfect accompaniments to the marinated tuna.
Our second dish was the asparagus which was perfectly grilled and layered with a thin sliver of cheese.
The chef sent out a complimentary off-the-menu risotto with onion and peas. It was sensational, creamy with a subtle hint of onion flavor. Truth be told, I ordinarily don’t care for onions, but Chef’s version of the dish was so tasty, almost porridge-like and surprisingly and unexpectedly perfect.
Next up was the beef stew which was incredibly tender, with a wine and shallot aftertaste. The broth had a mixture of peas and crispy asparagus spears.
The mashed potatoes served alongside were super creamy.
The fish of the day was sea bass which was served on a bed of sliced carrots and onions. The preparation of the fish was exceptional as it was tender and flaky and was quite a generous serving.
The rice pudding served with toasted nuts and salted caramel was my childhood dream reincarnated. Our server told us that just the week prior, during fashion week, Justin Timberlake came in to pick up the pudding to take back to his hotel room.
We were seated right next to the kitchen where we watched Chef crank out dish after dish, plating each one meticulously. He clearly was focused on the best quality ingredients as well as the importance of every dish being cooked properly and served at the appropriate temperature. While we enjoyed our lunch, we observed him yelling at his staff to hasten their pace to get the food to each of the guests within a minute of him finishing up the final touches. Our server told us that he had a flat upstairs where his ex-wife and child lived, and he took naps in between service. Every morning, he went to the market and chose the freshest ingredients. Upon hearing about Chef’s dedication to quality of ingredients and observing his passion for cooking, we decided to make Chez L’Ami Jean a regular stop for every upcoming visit to Paris.
After our very rich and opulent lunch, we attempted to hail a taxi or grab an Uber. Unfortunately, it was drizzling, and our options were few and far between. We stopped at a bar to have a drink and regroup. Our bartender mentioned that there was a taxi stand down the block where we could catch a ride to head back to our condo.
After a short rest and shower, we headed out for the evening.
Unbeknownst to us, the pre-show dinner at Ginger which came with our Crazy Horse reservation was going to be the best part of our evening. We were provided a prix fixe menu with a few options.
Our starters were the egg rolls which were super crispy and flavorful and the tuna tartare which tasted fresh and savory.
Then for our entrees, my husband chose the fish which was quite flaky and moist, and I ordered the beef which was amazingly tender and was pure umami.
Each entree included a choice of one of three side options, but we paid a bit extra to get all three which were white rice sprinkled with sesame seeds drizzled with sesame oil, noodles stir fried in soy sauce and crisp and lightly seasoned veggies.
We ended our meal with a chocolate molten cake which was just beyond divine.
During dinner, we befriended a couple who were also heading to the theater. They were witnesses to the horrific display aka “show.” Our entrance fee included a bottle of champagne which was beyond awful and almost rancid. We weren’t sure if the “girls” on stage were actually live or if what we were watching was previously recorded footage which was projected onto the stage. There was nothing risqué or interesting about their performance.
At one point, I fell asleep and stayed asleep until the end of the show. At least I got some extra rest and was able to put myself out of misery.
When we arrived back in the Marais, we came upon a very packed and lively crowd. We did not realize that it was Pride, and all of the restaurants and bars in the Marais were busting at the seams. It was a site to behold, and we consider ourselves fortunate to have been at the right place at the right time. After spending a few minutes walking about watching the celebrations, we headed back to our condo and turned in for the evening.
The next day was a bit of a reprieve from the intense schedule from the days prior.
We decided to take a leisurely walk to Musee d’Orsay but on the way, we encountered a bicycle race along the Seine. It was difficult to pass to get to the other side of the street as there were so many participants.
Once inside the museum, we utilized the Rick Steves’ app for a self-guided audio tour of the museum.
It was larger than I remembered, but it was still by far my favorite of all museums in Paris as it housed my favorite impressionist painters.
After a few hours, we made our way to Cafe Campana which had changed its format since our first visit. It was no longer cafeteria style and instead transitioned into a sit-down dining area with servers.
We ordered the Caesar salad which was a very generous portion. There were large slices of chicken interspersed amongst the egg wedges, lettuce and cheese slivers.
My husband ordered a penne pasta with tomato sauce served with cheese slices drizzled with pesto sauce.
I ordered a chicken dish with Moroccan flavors. The rice had a toasted burnt almond taste interspersed with the moist chicken sitting in a tomato stew. We were served dinner rolls which unfortunately were tough as cardboard and inedible.
We decided to hop on a Batobus on our way back to our neighborhood. Pro-tip: Order the tickets online for a discount.
Unfortunately, the sun was blazing hot, and it was quite uncomfortable during our cruise, but it was nice to see the city from a different vantage point.
After a much-needed nap from the busy morning, we headed out to a Guy Savoy restaurant within walking distance called L’Atelier Maitre Albert. The restaurant was a bit dark and cavernous inside, but it seemed fairly popular and filled up quickly.
We were served with a complimentary amuse bouche starter of what may have been salami as well as room temperature carrot soup which seemed like an odd pairing. There was definitely a contrasting theme of salty vs mildly sweet. The rest of the dinner followed the same oddity of flavors.
The chicken liver salad was next, and it was served hot and smoky with a crisp, cold lettuce which was drizzled with light dressing.
My husband opted for a cold soup which appeared to be some kind of green vegetable puree. There were two slim square pieces of goat cheese at the bottom of the soup bowl. Both starters were quite good.
I ordered the chicken with potato gratin for dinner. The chicken was a bit dry though the skin was slightly crispy.
My favorite part of the dish was the dollop of mashed potatoes which were so creamy and rich that it almost tasted like a decadent smoky macaroni and cheese side dish.
My husband ordered the salmon which was excellent and a far better choice.
However, the buckwheat risotto he ordered on the side was grainy and set atop a mild mushroom broth which gave it a bit of moisture.
For dessert, we ordered a hot roasted peach tart with sorbet and a chocolate cream tart with raspberry sorbet. All in all, it was a fairly reasonably priced dinner but not one of the standouts of our trip.
We decided to walk off our dinner and head to Ile Saint-Louis. It’s the area where we stayed on our first trip to Paris.
I had read that the Moulin Rouge dancers frequented Aux Trois Mailletz during their time off so since it was fairly close, we headed over and stayed for a few songs, even witnessing a 50th birthday family dinner celebration.
Afterwards, we walked around and visited our former hotel before heading to get a bit of a late night scoop of ice cream from the famous Berthillon.
We polished it off while sitting on the banks of the Seine.
Monday took us on a different path as we headed to Place des Vosges and then Place de la Bastille. It was a long walk which was going to be rewarded with a stop at what David Lebovitz determined was the bakery which served the best croissant in all of Paris.
Unfortunately, I did not check Ble Sucre’s website until we were at the square and was horrified to learn after our nearly two hour walk that it was closed on Mondays. By this point, my husband was “hangry” and looking at the sky, it seemed as if rain was imminent.
In a panic, I quickly googled “best croissant” in the area and managed to find one that was a five-minute walk from our location. It ended up being a blessing in disguise as our happy accidental find became our favorite bakery in Paris.
Artisan Boulangerie Saint Antoine had a small outdoor dining area on its sidewalk which not every bakery had in Paris.
We ordered the chicken and mustard poppy seed baguette which had a mild flavor, was lightly dressed and beyond delicious. In addition, we also ordered the chocolat pistache escargot which I had seen in several YouTube videos as a “must order” and their version was insanely delicious and is now my favorite pastry. Lastly, we also ordered a croissant which was crisp on the outside but light and airy on the inside. It was truly the best 7.50 euros spent on the trip!
Luckily, the skies cleared by the time we were done with our mid-morning snack, and we headed off to the colorful Rue Cremiuex to take a few Instagrammable photos and proceeded to have some soothing, warming organic tea at the nearby Le Cremieux. After a quick respite, we headed to our lunch spot which was about a thirty-minute walk away.
Le Servan was also featured in Forbes’ best restaurants and was helmed by two half Filipino, half French sisters. One was the chef and the other ran front of house. The restaurant sat on the corner of a busy street with both indoor and outdoor seating. We opted to sit indoors as we had a view of the somewhat open kitchen.
We started off with the ravioli which was quite mild but had a bit of nuttiness from the peanuts interspersed throughout. It sat in a broth that was reminiscent of a wonton soup.
The Caesar salad had a bit of heat from the kimchi and was heavily dressed but it didn’t overpower the dish perhaps because of the crispy lardons and egg. The latter starter was definitely the perfect exemplification of a euro Asian fusion dish.
For our first entrée, we opted for the duck which was very dense and thick, almost like a steak. The skin was a bit too chewy so off it came. The green beans were in a Worcestershire, soy-based sauce much like an oyster sauce which added a bit of Asian flare to the traditional French dish.
The tuna, however, was the more exceptional of the two. It was also thick like a steak, but it was perfectly cooked and lean, set in a bed of white creamy sauce with a slightly sweet mango sesame mushroom drizzle. There was also a “filet” of mushroom served with it which was an interesting and successful pairing.
For dessert, we ordered the fruit tarte which had an overwhelmingly nutty taste. Alongside it was a sorbet which was quite sour.
Unfortunately, the second dessert, the rhubarb, was a complete miss as it was stringy and took a lot of effort to consume. Overall, we wouldn’t recommend or return to the restaurant. I am disappointed as I had read that it was David Chang’s favorite Asian restaurant in Paris, but perhaps too much time had passed since his initial visit and the quality had deteriorated. It felt as if the powers that be were trying too hard to create a hybrid of French and Asian dishes, and the effort just fell flat.
After our lunch, we hurried off to our first of two free walking tours. It was a sensational way to spend an hour and a half, to say the least, and we are now huge fans of free walking tours.
We learned quite a bit about the Marais, and how one part of it was swampland and that portion was designated for the Jews who lived in the city.
We loved walking in the narrow walkways and courtyards hearing how the area evolved over the decades.
Our guide was witty, charming and funny, the trifecta of a perfect guide.
It was quite a warm day so after our tour, we headed back home for a nap before we got ready for our evening.
Our dinner at Le Drouant was interesting. It was quite plush, elegant, upscale and refined. All the servers wore suits and ties, and the guests were dressed in casual upscale garb. It was the first restaurant we had been to which had a dedicated sommelier.
The food was brought on a tray by one individual along with the table’s server and a third individual served the plates of food to the guests.
All the glassware was Riedel crystal.
For our first starter, we had French peas with what appeared to be shredded lettuce akin to coleslaw.
The second dish was the asparagus which sat in a creamy white broth that had an egg and finely sliced chives flavor.
The main dish was the famous chicken, and it was sensational. The meat was moist and covered in a Worcestershire style sauce which had a hint of tarragon.
I was surprised at the quality as I was served a breast and wing which were both ordinarily dry and difficult to tenderize.
The risotto dish served alongside was creamy and cheesy and the mushrooms added a layer of earthiness.
My husband’s fish was tender and flaky and sat in a bed of creamy herbaceous sauce which almost tasted a bit like mayonnaise or yogurt.
For dessert, we were served a chocolate cake which was super rich and dense, drizzled with a light chocolate sauce.
The rice pudding was fine, but the kernels were chewy and seemed undercooked and not on the same quality or scale as what we had enjoyed at L’Ami Jean.
The last dessert was the meringue was light and fluffy and tart. We would recommend the starters and entrees, but the desserts were just subpar in comparison.
Our sixth day had us starting off in Montmarte.
We headed to the I Love You Wall, taking the obligatory Instagram photos before meeting up with the second free walking tour.
We were quite surprised at how large our group was as it made hearing the guide quite difficult.
Nevertheless, we trudged up the steep streets and listened to what we could catch, admiring the view and architecture from atop the hill. The group coincidentally had a stop at the I Love You Wall and that is where we were introduced to a second guide who we opted to follow in lieu of the original guide.
It turns out that our second Montmartre guide was the founder of the free walking tour in Paris and was a wealth of information.
Also, because the group was smaller and of course, he had the most experience, what he shared was more thought provoking and informative.
After our ninety-minute tour, I quickly took a photo by the carousel at the foot of the hill, and we rushed down the hill to our lunch reservation at the Instagrammable Pink Mamma. Despite having reservations, we still had to wait in line. There was also a line on the other side of the building for those without reservations.
Though we were about 15 minutes late, the hostess called our name and escorted us to the rooftop dining where I was hoping we would be seated. While there, we met a fellow American from the East Coast who was sitting to my right. She was supposed to have been back home, but her flight was cancelled so she somehow got a last-minute reservation and was enjoying a beautifully colorful lunch.
We started with the bresaola de boeuf punta d’anca which was a bit like beef carpaccio, shockingly delicious, lean but not overly salty. The stracciatella fumee was incredibly unique and foreign to us as we have never sampled the center of a burrata. It had a bit of black pepper and olive oil interspersed and was divine. The double trouble truffle pasta and pizza were sensational standouts which we would happily order again and again.
For dessert, we opted for the creme brûlée which was still lit when served to us and was just the perfect icing to a perfect meal.
Pink Mamma was our second favorite restaurant in Paris because of the rooftop dining, the divine food and our amazing server, Gabriel. He shared a bit about his background and his thoughts about Paris and France in general. Coincidentally, the hostess and Gabriel were a couple, lived together, didn’t own a car because between the gas and parking, it was cost prohibitive so they only took the metro and walked everywhere else. He mentioned that they are taxed at 75% so it was incredibly difficult to move outside of their socioeconomic level. Gabriel shared a few more anecdotes, but it was our time speaking with him and our new friend from the East Coast which added to our lunch experience and is frankly why we travel, because one cannot gain the intimate and personal insight without heading to faraway destinations.
We headed home, full and sleepy from the delicious carbo-loaded lunch. After a nap and shower, we walked to our dinner reservation at Bouillon Republique which was about twenty minutes away from our condo.
Bouillons are known from serving incredibly inexpensive meals, and ours was the only one at the time which took reservations.
Others typically had on average at least a one hour wait. The menu was extensive, akin to a Jerry’s Deli menu.
I started off with the egg appetizer which was creamy and savory served with a pinch of truffle.
We also shared the shrimp and avocado which was an odd but interesting pairing. It was very light dish which sat on a bed of greens.
Next was the soup which was essentially a dark broth with a few vegetable pieces.
My husband ordered the cod and was pleasantly surprised at how good and filling it was. It looked a bit like a fish pot pie with breadcrumbs on top.
My steak, however, was a bit tough and chewy which was a disappointment and lacked seasoning, but the fries served alongside were nice and crispy.
For dessert, I ordered the ice cream which was creamy, dense and delicious.
My husband ordered a brioche French toast served with a caramel syrup on top which took it up a notch. The Chantilly cream served with it had a bit of liqueur flavor.
The next day, we first headed out to Luxembourg Gardens and discovered an expansive oasis in the middle of the city.
We walked around a bit, witnessed a few people running, observed a few artists painting and drawing and as we walked out and saw that the park had both tennis and basketball courts for the sports minded enthusiasts.
Then we ventured off to the Rodin Museum. It was a bit of a walk but it gave us an opportunity to see yet another side of the city. We had pre-purchased tickets as it alleviated the time standing in lines.
Once we checked in with security, we were given our audio guides, and we made our way across the courtyard to the building to view the sculptures before heading back out to the gardens.
After our tour, we stopped for a quick bite of Caesar salad and carbonara at their café before hailing a cab to take us to my noon Cartier appointment.
This was the start of our second luxury haul. I was in the market for a tank watch and had a lovely salesperson. After the purchase was made, I saw that Hermes was across the street, so we sauntered on inside.
I realized once amidst a mass display of Birkins and Kellys that we were in the “mothership” store. Although it would have been nice to be offered one of the quota bags, I didn’t have the budget or the time to make that effort but instead was interested in acquiring a pair of leather shoes. We headed upstairs and were instructed to put our name on the list. It was about a 30–45-minute wait so we explored the store.
Walking around was an experience in and of itself.
We saw watches which were in the six-figure range.
The China patterns were stunningly beautiful and colorful. It was definitely a store where one could literally spend a fortune.
Finally, I received a text message that my turn was coming up so we returned to the shoe section.
I was offered a pair of black leather sandals which was the only pair in all of France that was in my size so of course I had to buy it.
After Hermes, we headed to Prada as my husband needed replacement sunglasses.
While he completed his purchase, I walked down the street to Christian Louboutin to buy my first pair of red soled shoes.
We took a break from shopping to visit L’Orangerie Museum. Luckily, they had a check in desk for all our bags, and we were able to whiz through the museum in about an hour.
We viewed Monet’s Water Lilies in several of their galleries as well as other works of art.
The last store we visited was about a twenty-minute walk from the museum. Repetto had a pair of ballerina flats on hold for me.
After I completed my purchase, we headed to a very late lunch at Sanukiya.
We started off with the karaage which was moist and not overly oily. The omelet was more savory than sweet compared with others we tasted during our time in Japan. The granules of rice were bigger than what we normally eat at home and had a slightly pickled flavor.
The udon broth was sweetened by the green onion, and the tempura was super light and crunchy. The pork slices which was super lean and tender. Our lunch was fine but to be honest, the staff wasn’t very friendly so we will likely not be returning.
After our late lunch, we tried for the next hour to hail a cab.
Unfortunately, it was rush hour and nobody was available so this was the day when we walked over eleven miles during our daytime outing. It left us no time to nap as we had to immediately get ready and get out the door to make our 6:45 p.m. Moulin Rouge reservation.
We were close to an hour late but much to our surprise, there was a line of other late comers outside the venue. After we were seated, we were treated to a live band with singers which was a very pleasant surprise. Moulin Rouge definitely had a much better ambiance than Crazy Horse.
We were promptly served water and dinner rolls and drink orders were taken.
For our prix fixe dinner, we started with the crab appetizer which was creamy, chilled and tasted fresh from the sea.
The salmon was salty, smoky and tender.
The pate alongside wasn’t anything exceptional. It had a doughy crust but the inside tasted a bit like salty spam. I definitely would have skipped this dish.
My chosen entrée was the veal which was super tender and savory.
My husband’s fish was in a mild pepper sauce.
The chocolate dessert served after dinner had a layer of raspberry which gave it a bit of tartness.
The ice cream had a bit of sourness to it. Bonus surprise: there was cake inside the ice cream!
The food was okay but nothing exciting. However, the dinner reservation gave us preferential seating for the show so it was passable. The show was one of the best I had ever seen. It had circus acts, topless cancan dancers, gymnastics, singers, snakes in water, Medusa, cleopatra, clowns, balancing acts, electric lights and was a visual and auditory feast. We left the theater completely enamored with the show and vowed to return but possibly dine at one of the better local restaurants on our next visit.
The next morning turned out to be a bit rainy and cold.
We ran to meet our guided tour at the Louvre, and luckily we were escorted underground where we could recover from the miserable weather.
It was our second visit to the museum, but because it was so overwhelming the first time, we opted to have a do-over with a guide which we highly recommend.
He highlighted certain paintings, escorted us away from the crowds, took us in early to see the Mona Lisa and then the Winged Victory aka Nike.
Our guide was a wealth of artistic knowledge and definitely helped us better appreciate the artwork and sculptures.
After our tour, we hopped in a taxi and arrived for our lunch a bit early. The first time we ate at Les Deux Magots, we were on a tight budget. During our prior visit, it was a pleasant day so we ate outside and sampled a few of the less expensive items on the menu. I didn’t recall enjoying whatever we ordered as they were pretty basic. This time, between being cold and wet and also in a better situation financially, we went for broke, unexpectedly, specifically on the 16 euro double Pierre Herme desserts.
We ordered a few vodka martinis to warm us up.
The asparagus starter had a bit of creamy chive dipping sauce.
My husband’s salmon was oily, flaky, crispy and perfectly grilled.
I ordered the burger which was savory with a perfectly cooked medium patty served with crispy fries.
Then for dessert, we opted for the vanilla tarte which was incredibly creamy with a dense and buttery crust.
Our second dessert had a flaky crispy crust and a light chocolate nutty middle. Both were perfect endings to our fantastic meal.
After lunch, the rain had cleared up so we walked to Saint Chapelle, arriving an hour before our 3 p.m. ticketed time. It was completely unorganized with three lines. The closest to the wall were those without tickets. The middle line had tickets on the half hour and the outer line had tickets on the hour. The randomness of which line was allowed to enter was incredibly frustrating. We weren’t admitted until a bit past our reservation time. It was our first visit to the church and though the stained-glass windows were impressive, we probably would prefer to visit for a music event in the evening as the experience would likely feel more ethereal.
After a brief rest, we headed out to a dinner venue in our neighborhood, Robert et Louise. It was a cute little tavern style restaurant which had a downstairs area. We were seated upstairs, on the main floor, next to the open kitchen.
I ordered the entrecôte which was lean and tasty though a bit tougher than what I normally prefer but for a rib eye, it was quite good.
My husband’s shrimp was plump and sweet.
The winner though was the mushroom omelet which was smoky and a tad bit herbaceous. With each of these plates, one can select two of the three side options. The green salad was mildly dressed with very fresh, crisp greens. The haricot verts or green beans were slim and perfectly cooked al dente. The potatoes had a smoky and slightly sweet flavor.
For dessert, we opted for the chocolate cake which looked a bit like a soufflé with a warm creamy middle. The scoop of ice cream and berry drizzle with cream made it a delicious well-rounded dessert.
The next morning took us on our first European train ride to Giverny to visit Monet’s home and water lilies. We met a mother and son from one of the northern central states and had a lovely conversation with them on the train, sharing our Parisian experiences thus far. Once we arrived at the station, we hopped on the bus for a quick ride to the neighborhood and then proceeded to get lost immediately after we headed out.
The signs weren’t quite clear as to which direction Monet’s house was located.
We eventually found our way and though our entrance ticket wasn’t for another few hours, we were admitted.
We started with his gardens and then meandered into the house.
It was quite impressive being in his studio and looking out at the windows, seeing in person where my favorite impressionist painter lived and how he lived. After the house tour, we made our way to the water lilies.
The pond was fairly expansive, and there was just something magical being there and seeing what captivated him and inspired hundreds of paintings.
After our visit, we headed to the nearby café, Les Nympheas, for lunch.
My husband ordered the fish which was flaky and lemony served with creamy potatoes.
My omelet was gooey and cheesy with perfectly crisp fries.
We shared the chicken salad which was moist and had what might have been an egg battered paprika panko bread crumb coating.
For dessert, we opted for the chocolate molten cake which was dense but had a warm creamy center.
We headed back and stopped off at L’as Du Fallafel for a quick snack. Despite all the hype, it was a huge disappointment.
We ordered the fallafel and a mixed schawarma plate. Both were bland and unexciting. We headed back for our afternoon rest before heading back out to dinner.
Our restaurant of choice, Le Train Bleu, had a magnificent interior, a bit like a museum with paintings on the ceilings in an expansive space.
We started with the salad which was fine but nothing out of the ordinary.
The lobster mac and cheese had a bit of pot pie top crust, was super creamy and savory.
The chicken dish had a bit of cheese crumble which added a layer of depth to it.
Our dessert of the lemon soufflé which had to be ordered at the start of the meal was completely worth the wait and the calories. It was eggy, light, frothy and unbelievably unique!! Combined with the thyme ice cream, it was a fantastic dessert combo.
On our last full day, we started off at Les Colonnes de Buren to take our Instagrammable black and white photos with the columns.
Then we headed back to 31 Rue Cambon to take a photo on Coco Chanel’s staircase leading up to her apartment which wasn’t accessible the week prior.
After the two photo shoots, we made our way to the Arc de Triomphe where we had tickets to head to the top. Somehow, we were offered a ride on the elevator rather than walking up the narrow, winding stairs, which was a nice added bonus since it was a very warm day.
Having been there before, we knew what to expect and with the huge crowd, we didn’t stay very long.
We stopped off at Longchamps as it was down the street. Having purchased quite a bit, we needed to buy an extra bag. In speaking with one of the managers, he mentioned that the Global Blue office was just up the street and would provide a faster and easier refund process if we had the time prior to departing Paris.
After the shopping detour, we hopped in a taxi to Les Ombres.
We spent some time perusing the menu and decided to choose the pre-fixe.
We were served a bite of a round cheese pastry which was tasty.
The second dish which was compliments of the chef was a lot saltier than we would normally consume, and to be honest, we weren’t quite sure what it was. The rest of the menu was fine.
The soup was nice and herbaceous but subtle.
Fish was flaky and moist.
The artichoke was smoky.
The dessert was creamy, nutty, frothy and fruity. The worst part was the blinding and oppressive heat.
I felt like I had heat stroke as the service took forever, and I was wearing a black top and with dark hair, all the heat was enveloped on the upper part of my body.
The only redeeming part of the visit was the photo that our server took of us in front of the Eiffel Tower that only dining patrons would have the ability to take.
We headed back home to rest, pack and recover before heading out to our final destination, the Seine dinner cruise.
In hindsight, I’m glad we booked the cruise and paid extra for the window seat, but it was really warm inside the boat, and it made the experience uncomfortable.
The food was fine but nothing special.
The best part though was seeing Parisians enjoy a warm evening dancing, picnicking and just spending time with their friends and family along the Seine.
I’m glad those moments in time were our parting sights of Paris which will forever have a special place in our hearts.
So to recap, here are our learnings from our extended visit to the city of lights. I would highly recommend guided tours over winging it on your own. Having done both, learning about the history, location and/or artwork from somebody knowledgeable is a better use of time and money. Also, sign up for free walking tours. It’s a cost-effective way to see the city, get a workout and meet some people while learning about a certain place and time. On the foodie front, just because the restaurant has a location in Paris, it doesn’t automatically mean that the food and experience will be divine.
On this recent trip, our dining experiences were a mixed bag. On the one hand, just because a meal is inexpensive does not automatically mean that it will rank low on the satisfaction scale. Same can be said of the reverse though in our case, one of the most expensive meals was the best dining experience on this trip. Lastly, on the luxury shopping front, depending on the currency exchange and the VAT refund policy, the lower European prices make the experience a glorious one, getting more bang for your buck. I paid a fraction of the cost for bags and accessories compared to buying them in Los Angeles which has a higher sales tax, and as a result, I have vowed to only shop in Europe for my high-end luxury purchases.
As the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea. I’m already planning our next trip for when Notre Dame reopens because who doesn’t want to see the bored gargoyle up close or go to a mass where you don’t understand one word that’s being said? I also currently have a very long list of restaurants to try and a growing wish list of luxury goodies. I hope this blog incentivized a few readers to finally take the plunge and head to this beautiful romantic city or perhaps schedule a return visit to explore more of its arrondissements. Merci pour votre temps!
Grace Gambin
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