Vespertine was the second of two Michelin starred local restaurants that we sampled during our quarantine. I accidentally came upon it on Tock after it had completed two prior takeout themed menu offerings. A few months before the pandemic, a coworker had indulged in the in-person multi-course meal and wine pairing and had shared his photos of the evening.
After experiencing several courses in different sections and floors of the restaurant and splurging $700 per person, as beautiful as the presentation appeared, the $175 hourly rate for the 4 hour evening seemed a bit exorbitant, so I wasn’t quite inclined to quickly make reservations.
However, when the 12 course $65 per person Southern feast takeout offering came to my attention, I did the math. It was an investment that was worth the risk of not knowing what low country Southern cooking provided so I made my reservation and purchased the dinner for two on faith.
I arrived at the restaurant a few minutes prior to my 5 p.m. reservation. I checked in with the hostess clad all in black with matching black face mask. We were each assigned a parking space where we would be provided with our to go bag which was placed directly in the trunk of our cars. I waited about fifteen minutes before my dinner arrived and headed home.
The package came with a menu packet which explained the historical, societal and cultural influences of each dish.
The care and respect given to each dish and the written documented historical reference moved me to tears.
It was apparent that some of the items were rooted in sorrow, hardship and endurance, much like what we were facing during the pandemic.
I acknowledged the “first world” problems we had now compared with the dire necessities and oppression that prior generations faced as we ate our meal in gratitude.
We used our slightly upgraded dinnerware, because the attention to care and detail in the menu warranted that respect in kind.
The television was turned off and instead, we listened to the songs of an old school soulful blues singer, Elmore James.
It provided the perfect ambiance to the sensory experience the meal provided.
Our at-home dining of Vespertine’s low country southern feast was a journey in time through socioeconomic and geographical traditions and culture, all by way of food. We so appreciated the care and effort that was taken to transport us to the South through a bountiful and delicious culinary education. It was a beautiful, soulful and transformational experience.
Vespertine
3599 Hayden Avenue
Culver City, CA 90232
http://vespertine.la
It has been several years since my visit to Tokyo. There was much to see, but my time in the city was abridged. I was taken with Tokyo’s vastness and denseness which would seem overwhelming at first, but the hardscape of the buildings were countered and interspersed with massively lush and serene parks throughout the city.
My favorite memory was walking down one of the many paths of Hamarikyu Garden. The oppressive heat and humidity had given way to the clouds, and it had started to rain, gently, softly.
I meandered along a different path and listened as my sandals glided roughly across the gravel. I could hear the wind rustling and whistling through the field of wildflowers.
I couldn’t help but smile as the pace of the raindrops quickened into a light staccato creating a soprano melody as the drops from the sky merged with the garden’s lakes.
The pitter patter of the rain against the wooden boards of the bridge gave way to a more baritone sound, harmonizing with the soothing sounds of water, creating a setting and backdrop that was the perfect intermingling of peace and solitude. It was the first time I felt truly calm, at peace and centered in a place of contradiction, with the melding of the new and the old, the frenetic and the minimalist.
If there is a lesson to be learned, the sound of silence is what will help you find calm and peace regardless of where you are in place and time. For without the absence of sound, you cannot appreciate what is around you as the senseless chatter prevents you from being able to see clearly, hear succinctly or feel objectively. My experience at Hamarikyu Garden is a reflection of the balanced, serene and observant life that I aspire to lead.
Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” season 1 introduced me to N/Naka several years ago. I loved hearing Nikki Nakayama’s tale of tenacity at breaking down her family’s gender bias and pushing through the male dominated culinary barriers, harnessing sheer force of grit and determination, something called keeshin in the Japanese culture. It was so moving listening to her narration of how she couldn’t allow herself to be perceived as “less than” by her family or her peers. She harnessed her intuitive and artistic nature to create a mood and a story through her cuisine, much like an artist painting a canvas with varying colors and contrasting textures, creating layers of depth and complexity.
Last year, the Michelin Guide returned to California, and I recalled seeing Instagram posts that N/Naka had been awarded two stars. It was such a huge feat for any restaurant to be granted the honor, but I silently acknowledged that my chances of obtaining a reservation were even more diminished by the well-earned accolade.
Then the coronavirus pandemic upended the world as we knew it. All superfluous enjoyment ceased. Everything became bleak and dark with no light at the end of the tunnel. Social media became my distraction and refuge.
I belonged to a Facebook group, Culver City foodies, and one member had posted that N/Naka was offering $38 bento boxes on Tock. I happened to have read his post a bit after 6 a.m. one Saturday morning and went on the site.
Though most reservations were waitlisted, I was able to get an early dinner pickup time a little over a week later.
I arrived 10 minutes early on my designated day, and surprisingly, others did as well. 5 p.m. was the first available reservation. I was second in line and an Asian woman wearing a mask and gloves had a clipboard, checking off each reservation as we arrived. She went into the nondescript gray building on the corner and emerged with plain brown paper bags containing our takeout, placing the bag inside each of our trunks, providing my first true curbside experience.
At first sight, it was evidenced that great care and consideration was given in the selection of items chosen for the bento box. Each compartment offered a dish which was beautifully and artfully displayed. The combination of offerings was like an orchestra with each instrument playing its part in a composition, creating a cohesive harmony for the palate.
As we slowly immersed ourselves in the experience, savoring the complexity and depth of flavor, we gradually hastened our pace through the edible presentation, reaching a fevered crescendo as we reached the pinnacle of the masterful composition before slowly and mindfully taking pause to enjoy the last few moments, ending on the last and final delicious note.
A few months have since passed, and takeout reservations are now available on Tock at 10 a.m. on Saturdays but have swiftly been sold out in 5 seconds or less. I was fortunate to have learned about the opportunity to partake and to have had great timing as it afforded us the opportunity to enjoy a memorable experience.
The bento box offering by N/Naka was an artful presentation of grace and refinement and reaffirms why Nikki Nakayama has been elevated to be deemed as “greater than” all others in the ultra competitive culinary scene of Los Angeles.
N/Naka
3455 S. Overland Avenue
Los Angeles, CA
Despite growing up in San Gabriel Valley and living in Los Angeles most of my life, I had never taken the opportunity to visit Descanso Gardens. It was one of the few sites that reopened after the coronavirus pandemic shut down Los Angeles. After two months of limited options and social isolation, I finally had something to look forward to and was excited at the novel idea of being a tourist in my own city.
My husband and I headed out late one Saturday afternoon for our 4 p.m. admission, a time which was deliberately chosen in an effort to shield ourselves from the weekend’s heat wave. The 23 mile drive that would have ordinarily taken a bit over an hour was cut in half due to the lack of traffic on the freeway, one of the few upsides to the pandemic.
On arrival, I quickly realized that I had not allotted enough time to see the grounds. We had a mere hour to whisk through the gardens before they closed for the day. Our first stop was the Japanese Garden which was a miniature version of the gardens we visited during our time in Tokyo. For a brief second, on seeing the iconic red bridge, it felt as if we were back in Ueno Park, walking through the vermillion torii gates at the Hanazonoinari Shrine.
We made our way through the beautiful expansive Rose Garden, passed the fountain
as we headed to Mulberry Pond and then the lake where we came upon some ducks.
Afterwards, we walked through the Camellia Forest. Hearing twigs break underfoot as we walked on the dirt path and listening to the melodic birds singing as we made our way through the forest was calming and nurturing. The tall lush trees shielded us from the heat and the mindless chatter of the outside world. We were cocooned in a safe haven and for once, after months of anxiety, fear and confusion, we felt at peace.
Near the end of our visit we were surprised to see a pair of ducks waddling down one of the paths near the Japanese garden. It made us chuckle seeing how unfettered and unaffected they were by the small crowd gathering around them.
Descanso Gardens was brimming with life and possibilities. For us, it was a restorative place that helped quiet our minds, calmed our nerves and gave us hope that we will heal and grow. In times of stress and uncertainty, I will remember our first outing, the beautiful array of colors in the Rose Garden but as we trudge through this time of uncertainty, I will look to the pair of ducks as the example for how we will get through this together, by not looking back and only looking forward, walking with confidence and courage, not letting anything or anybody get in their way.
Descanso Gardens
1418 Descanso Drive
La Canada Flintridge, CA 91011
I started dining at the original Ragin Cajun in 1993 when it was on Pier Avenue in Hermosa Beach. Over the past 27 years, I’ve introduced all my friends to Ragin Cajun. Despite the change in ownership and consolidated location, I’ve chosen to still partake in the menu that was previously established by Stephen Domingue and given a rehabilitation by the new owners.
In light of the current pandemic, we had not traveled too far outside our Westside location. However, with the holiday weekend, we decided to head to my former haunt, Hermosa Beach, and do a round trip beach/strand walk to Manhattan Beach and back. On our return walk, I ordered a crawfish etouffee combo,
and fried chicken combo which came with two sides.
I chose macaroni & cheese and fries, extra crispy.
I placed the order at 7:15 p.m. I was told it would take 25 minutes. We arrived 8 minutes after the estimated time. I came into the establishment and was given the bill, I put down 4 $20 bills and asked for change so I could give a cash tip. I gave 20% and left to head home.
I arrived to find that I had not been given my fries which was a disappointment considering the effort I had made to give business to an establishment that was 25 minutes from home and I tipped 20% in cash. I called to advise of the error and received an apology and a promise to give me a Po Boy and fries on my next visit.
With that said, the etouffee and fried chicken were delicious.
It wasn’t the best value meal I’ve ordered during this pandemic and with the misstep, I can’t trust the accuracy of their packing skills. I’m not sure I would go out of my way again to give this establishment my business. They can keep their fries.
Ragin Cajun
525 S. Pacific Coast Highway
Redondo Beach, CA 90277
https://www.ragincajuncafe.com
Mark Tripp and I both worked together at an ad agency in Santa Monica up until a year ago. I remember my coworkers eagerly awaiting the emails from him inviting us to his grill on the third floor for some good eating, ranging from breakfasts and tacos to burgers and dessert. He was what I considered an integral part of that agency’s DNA.
Though we have both moved on from that world, coming across his stand today was a reminder of how much I enjoyed his food. I ordered a double cheeseburger with no bun and got a bag of chips. My double cheeseburger patties were as juicy, flavorful and perfectly seasoned as I remembered them to be. I could have easily eaten four patties.
Having read some of the reviews, I am aware of the comments about the price. I have firsthand knowledge on the quality and diversity of food Mark is capable of cooking and though we didn’t discuss what his future culinary plans are, it’s quite possible that the burger component will only be a part of what’s yet to come. There are very few times I have some insight to the back story of how a cook or chef got his or her start, and with that in mind, I have complete faith that Mark will continue to grow, evolve and surprise us.
https://www.trippburgers.com
The Auld Fella opened a few months back but we couldn’t quite make it in until the Monday of Presidents Day weekend and we are so glad we decided to visit and almost regret not frequenting the pub sooner!
We came specifically for Happy Hour as we weren’t quite sure if we wanted to commit to a full dinner just yet.
I started with a vodka martini and my husband had a draft beer recommended by our fantastic server, Matt.
We started with the cheesie toast with turkey and crispy fries with curry dip. The table next to us saw the order arrive and was inspired to order exactly the same thing. The bread was crispy and the cheese melted into the turkey. When dipped into the curry sauce which came with the mealy crispy fries, the combination of flavors and textures were heavenly. I’m not quite sure if Indian immigrants migrated to Ireland but it was definitely a unique and appropriate partnering of flavors. This platter was seriously the best thing we ate though everything else was fantastic.
Next up were the sausage rolls. They had a light outer flakey crust which were tightly wrapped around the sausage which were quite savory and juicy and provided the perfect contrast.
Our next pairing was the macaroni and cheese and grilled organic jidori chicken breast strips with came with an aioli sauce. Both were quite good as well. The pasta dish was dense and gooey and the grilled chicken was surprisingly moist and tasty despite it being the leanest part of the chicken.
Last to arrive was the tomato gazpacho which was served warm. It was quite thick, savory and rich. It may have been better served with the first pairing of dishes but nonetheless, it was delicious and definitely rounded out the meal.
Overall, simply based on happy hour and the fantastic service, we would have no hesitation returning and indulging in their dinner offerings. The restaurant is quite intimate, with only a few tables inside and a handful of tables at their outdoor patio. It definitely has the vibe of an Irish pub and will be one of our regular haunts in our hometown of Culver City.
The Auld Fella
9375 Culver Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
https://www.theauldfella.com
I came across My Lai on Yelp which appeared to have just opened as it only had eight reviews, all 5 stars. It’s located across the street from Mar Vista on Venice around the corner from Little Fatty and Rasselbock.
As one of the reviews previously mentioned, it has a Chipotle vibe where you can create your own bowl or order one of their specialities.
I was immediately drawn to the garlic fried rice which I paired with grilled chicken, cilantro, sliced cucumber, sesame medley, crispy garlic and miso sesame sauce. The chicken was moist and tender with a bit of char, and the cucumber added a bit of freshness and lightness while the cilantro added a layer of earthiness to the dish. The miso sesame sauce was light and tangy, and the crispy garlic added texture and bite, but the star of the dish was the garlic fried rice which appeared to have been cooked in a savory chicken broth or stock resulting in a glutinous sticky rice.
The rice was reminiscent of what is traditionally served in Filipino restaurants but more potent and richer in flavor. Though the bowl I ordered was not an authentic Vietnamese dish, it was quite enjoyable.
The restaurant is quite clean and modern with both an indoor and fairly decent sized outdoor space for dining. It would be very easy to have a quick, easy and healthy meal here or spend an hour or two lounging on the patio with friends. This new find is a solid winner!
My Lai
12222 Venice Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90066
https://www.mylaikitchen.com
I had first read about Sushi Beluga on one of my Yelp searches for new and noteworthy restaurants in the area. Since I had the day off, I decided to give them a try on MLK, Jr. Day.
I checked their opening time which was 11:00 a.m. and headed down to Playa. I arrived around 11:26 a.m. and saw the sign by the door that their soft open business hours were not as advertised, but they were set to open in 4 minutes so I decided to wait it out in my car until 11:30 a.m. and was the first customer through the door.
My server was absolutely lovely and welcoming. She explained that they had only been open only a month and a half and not all the items on the menu were available yet. She went page by page and identified those selections and mentioned that they expect to have the full menu available and be fully operational by the end of January or beginning of February.
I ordered the salmon sample which had 5 pieces of salmon for $15.95. For those doing the math, each piece cost $3.19. It was definitely not a cheap plate, but I was hopeful that the 5 star reviews on Yelp were on point.
I was sold on my first bite of the aburi miso salmon. It was tangy, complex with varying layers of flavors. The salmon tasted like it had hints of mirin, soy, sesame oil and citrus. It turned out to be my favorite on the plate.
That first bite set the stage for the rest. Next was the salmon with yuzu which had a smoky, citrus flavor. The third sample was the salmon truffle which was a bit oilier than the first two and had a slightly earthier aftertaste.
The next two samples were both king salmon as the restaurant was out of ocean trout. The texture of the king salmon was akin to the butteriness of the sashimi I had at Sushi Katsura which was located a couple hundred meters from the famous Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. King salmon #1 was Rey light, citrusy and quite refreshing while king salmon #2 had a bit of crunch and a slight tartness which tasted a bit like mango salsa on top contrasted by the salmon which had a more subdued flavor.
I didn’t believe I would ever taste quality even remotely close to what I indulged in during my visit to Tokyo in 2018 but at long last, I think I found a restaurant that is a much closer than Tokyo and likely a less expensive substitute.
Sushi Beluga is not your cheapest fare but the quality of the food they serve demands a slight upmarket price. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and having been spoiled with the freshness and exemplary cuts of fresh fish in Tokyo, I can wholeheartedly recommend Sushi Beluga as my new local go-to sashimi, sushi and nigiri spot in Playa Del Rey.
Sushi Beluga 207 Culver Blvd. Playa Del Rey, CA 90293 https://www.sushibelugaca.com
For my midweek lunch, I had a hankering for something different that was warm and comforting, savory and nurturing. It struck me that I hadn’t eaten Indian food in a while so I looked at my bookmarks on Yelp and saw that Cali Tandoor was in close proximity and they a lunch buffet!
I had driven by Cali Tandoor within the last week and realized it had replaced a long-standing Mexican restaurant.
It has a small parking lot adjacent to it. The entrance leads to a covered patio which opens into the main indoor dining room. The buffet station was towards the back of the restaurant.
I arrived a bit after 1 p.m. and the food surprisingly tasted fresh. most Indian buffers tend to look and taste dehydrated after sitting in room temperature for a few hours.
The rice was still light and fluffy, and the chicken was quite moist and tender. The quality of the food speaks to the freshness of the ingredients and the kitchen’s skill in preparing the food.
Two plates and two pieces of naan later I’m quite full and satisfied. I’m always happy to welcome a new and delicious restaurant to my hometown and will definitely be frequenting Cali Tandoor quite often in the very near future.
Cali Tandoor
9609 W. Venice Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
http://calitandoor.com
Grace Gambin
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